URWERK – UR-106 Flower Power Edition

URWERK – UR-SATELLITE UR-106 Flower Power Limited Edition

Crazy love at first sight

Le coup de foudre, that instantaneous love, the love that makes your eyes shine, your heart beat faster, heightens your senses and makes your life more intense. This is what UR-106 is talking about in its Flower Power version, a limited edition of only 11 pieces. Of course, it is an URWERK. Of course, it is complicated. Of course, it is an example of Haute Horlogerie. But above all, this UR-106 is beautiful, desirable and addictive.

Focus on an example of poetic mechanical jewellery.

Finding the right adjectives to describe the URWERK watches is always a challenge. Creations of luxury watchmaking, original to say the least. What is certain is that they all have a touch of eccentricity that sets them apart from the rest. The UR-106 Flower Power is no exception. Here is a happy marriage between steel and diamond, technique and gentleness, manual dexterity and mechanical precision.

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The UR-106 Flower Power casing houses no fewer than 239 Top Wesselton quality diamonds making a total of 2.53 carats (crown included). Its execution was supervised by the house of Magnin located in Geneva, who have specialised in watchmaking assembly since 1959. “One of the biggest problems in mounting arises from the complexity of the casing. We began with a single block of steel, a metal that is exceptionally hard and difficult to work with. We had to pave the perimeter of the glass, a rounded, convex curve, and its outer frieze. We then sourced, cut and ordered the appropriate stones for a paving in a crescendo fashion, as in a mandala,” explains Patrick Magnin, the CEO.

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Run a piece of fine silk over this part encrusted with diamonds and the fabric slides smoothly over the casing. This is the cruellest and most uncompromising of tests, which the UR-106 Flower Power passes with flying colours. Because every piece of jewellery must meet draconian criteria. The effort, the hours of work, must be imperceptible. The gemstones fit neatly into the material. They are not constrained, but held in place, highlighted in the hollow of the metal.

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Added to this decorative work on the casing is the beautiful workmanship carried out on the UR-106 Flower Power carousel itself.  Martin Frei, co-founder of the URWERK house and chief designer, says: "Ever since the launch of the 106 line in 2015, I have been dreaming of its different variations. Playing with diamonds and light is one of my greatest pleasures. We worked extensively with our engineer on the sketches of the flowers in this piece. We ran various tests on wax models before finally achieving the desired result. Each flower was then cast in white gold before being set and mounted on the carousel.”

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A Lotus flower acts as a pivot to the satellite indication of this UR-106.  A delicate flower that houses no fewer than 30 diamonds, all adapted to fit by the expert hand of the jeweller. The only indication that this is a technical as well as an anaesthetic item is hidden in the heart of the motif, a watch screw with a perfect finish. Three ornaments in gold and diamonds complete this bucolic picture. Each is composed of five mounted petals; they fit delicately in between the hour satellites. These three flowers are like a pause in this perpetually-moving carousel. Flowers that the watchmaker gently affixes to his mechanism, ensuring a fragile balance.

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This indication of the wandering hours, so dear to URWERK, consists of three satellites, each one carrying 4 indexes. One after another, they parade along the path of the minutes, showing the time in both analogue and digital fashion. A phase of the moon completes the UR-106 dial. “We have paid particular attention to the smallest details of the UR-106. We have taken18 yearsto perfect this idea, and made no concessions. The carousel and its satellites have been patiently satin-finished and sanded by hand. Each hour and minute index is painted by us. The cutting of the minute track of extreme delicacy is performed in our workshops. The blue of the lunar phase borrowed from lapiz lazuli was chosen from hundreds of others; the cutting of the lotus at the back of the piece is just asMartin designed it. “

The result is in keeping with the amount of effort made. Will this bring about that hoped-for instantaneous love, that makes your eyes shine, your heart beat faster, that heightens your senses and makes your life more intense?

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Technical Specifications

Collection: UR-SATELLITE

Model: UR-106 Flower Power Edition

Movement:
Caliber UR-6.01 - automatic winding
Jewels: 52
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 28,800v / h – 4 Hz
Finishes: Circular graining, shot peening, brushing, chamfered screw heads.
Power reserve: 48 hours
Dial: 
Central flower in white gold set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.184 ct);
3 small flowers in white gold set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.522 ct)
Indications
Hours  satellites  and carrousel in  titanium peened and brushed by hand
Sanded and satin-finished platinum
Hour satellites and carousel in titanium sanded and satin-finished by hand
Serrated minute track
Phases of the moon
Handed-painted hour and minute indications - SuperLuminova
Casing    
Materials: UR-106 Flower Power steel casing and diamond set titanium crown
Dimensions: Width 35 mm; length: 49.4 mm; thickness: 14.45 mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30 m / 3 ATM
Surface finishes:
Perlage, bead-blasting, satin-finishing

Limited Edition  to only 11 pieces


Versions:

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Model: UR-106 Lotus White: steel case and titanium crown
set with diamonds, titanium caseback (limited edition: 11 pieces)
Model: UR-106 Lotus Black: steel case and titanium crown, PVD coated in black,
set with black diamonds, titanium caseback PVD coated in black (limited edition: 11 pieces)

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Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
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ORIS – DIVERS Carl Brashear Chrono BRONZE Edition

ORIS – DIVERS Carl Brashear Chronograph BRONZE 43mm Limited Edition

You can’t keep a good man down

Oris introduces its second limited edition bronze watch made to remember the legacy of heroic US Navy Master Diver, Carl Brashear

He was one of the most inspirational figures of the 20th century, defying racial tensions, disability and the weight of history to become the U.S. Navy’s first African American and first amputee Master Diver. Carl Brashear, whose life was remembered in the film Men of Honour, was a heroic figure, and Oris is delighted to announce the second limited edition watch made in his memory, a bronze-cased, two-counter chronograph.

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Like the first watch, a time-only piece, the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition is based on the Oris Divers Sixty-Five and cast in bronze. Oris has chosen the material again to represent the early diving equipment Brashear used, which was also made of bronze. Like Brashear, bronze has a natural warmth, a quality that makes it an appealing material for use in watches. Bronze also ages over time, developing a natural patina that will make each watch bespoke to its wearer.

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Carl Brashear was born in Kentucky, USA in 1931. He joined the U.S. Navy in 1948 as a 17-year-old, shortly after the U.S. Military desegregated, and quickly decided he wanted to become a deep-sea diver. He graduated from the Navy’s diving programme in 1954, despite facing discrimination on account of his race.

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In 1966, he lost the lower part of his left leg in an accident during a mission to salvage a hydrogen bomb. After an exhausting period of rehabilitation, he became the U.S. Navy’s first amputee diver in 1968, and then qualified as a Master Diver in 1970, the first African American to do so.




The training for Master Diver certification involved completing a gruelling assessment programme, including dives to depths of 300 metres (1,000 feet) – in Brashear’s case, all with a prosthetic limb.

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After a distinguished career in the U.S. Navy that lasted more than 30 years, Brashear retired in 1979. He died in 2006 aged 75. His extraordinary story was the inspiration for the 2000 film Men of Honour, in which Brashear was portrayed by Oscar-winning actor Cuba Gooding Jr.

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For such a special individual, Oris has created a special, individual watch. The Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition uses bronze for its case, bezel, crown and pushers, a highly unusual material in watchmaking. This is only the second time Oris has used it for the case of a wristwatch – the only other time being for the first limited edition made in Carl Brashear’s name. Bronze ages over time, subject to atmospheric moisture and the pH levels in the wearer’s perspiration, meaning each of the 2,000 watches made will take on a unique look.

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Inside the watch is Oris Calibre 771, a special movement with a two-counter chronograph and a formidable 48-hour power reserve. It’s based on Sellita’s SW 510 and appears in the Oris collection for the first time.

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Oris has chosen a chronograph function for this special watch as a symbol of the number of times Carl Brashear was stopped by factors in his life he couldn’t control, and yet always got back up again. His mantra, often repeated during his lifetime, was: ‘It’s not a sin to get knocked down, it’s a sin to stay down.’

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The dial’s balanced, symmetrical layout is known as ‘bicompax’ and gives the watch its classic chronograph look, which is further enhanced by the absence of a date indicator. The subdial at 3 o’clock is a 30-minute counter; the subdial at 9 o’clock a small seconds.

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The dial is blue, a handsome complement to the bronze case and a reminder of the deep water into which Brashear ventured so often and so bravely. The watch comes on a vintage brown leather strap.

A couple of finishing touches complete the story behind the watch. The stainless steel case back features an embossed traditional diver’s helmet and Carl Brashear’s famous mantra.

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Ulrich W. Herzog, Oris Chairman, said: ‘We are so proud to be working with the Carl Brashear Foundation once again. Mr Brashear was an inspirational human being who brought significant, meaningful change in his lifetime. At Oris, it’s our mission to bring #ChangeForTheBetter’.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: DIVERS
Model: Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition to 2,000 pieces

Reference No. 01 771 7744 3185 LS  BRONZE

Movement
Automatic movement chronograph  
Caliber: Cal. 711 (based on Sellita SW 510)
Dimensions:  Ø 30.00 mm, 13 1/4’’’
Functions 
Centre hands for hours, minutes and chronograph 1/4 seconds,
2 subsidiary dials for continuous seconds and 30 minutes counter,
fine timing device and stop-second 
Winding:    Automatic winding, with red rotor
Power-Reserve:    48 hrs
Vibrations:    28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels:    27
Case
Material:    Multi-piece BRONZE case with screw-in bronze crown and pushers.
Size:   Ø 43.00 mm, 1.693 inches
Top Glass:    Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back:   Screwed stainless steel case back with embossed diver’s helmet and Carl Brashear’s mantra: ‘It’s not a sin to get knocked down, it’s a sin to stay down’ and engraved limited edition number
Water Resistance:   10 bar (100 m)
Interhorn Width:    21 mm
Diver’s uni-directional rotating bronze bezel with 60-minute timer.
Zero marker filled with Super-LumiNova® 
Crystal
Bubble-curved sapphire crystal, domed on both sides and with anti-reflective coating inside
Dial
Dark blue, curved dial with applied, polished, rose gold-plated indices, filled with Super-LumiNova®. Rose gold-plated hour, minute and central seconds hands, filled with Super-LumiNova®. Rose gold-plated chronograph minute and running seconds hands 
Strap/Bracelet
Brown leather strap with bronze pin buckle (additional stainless steel pin buckle also supplied)
Interhorn Width: 21 mm

Extras
Special presented in a luxurious wooden BOX with additional stainless steel pin buckle and with Carl Brashear Foundation commemorative coin inside

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Inside it has a Clipperton Island insignia, certificate, limited to 2000

Price Swiss Retail Price: CHF 4,700.00
 

Edition
Limited edition 2000 pieces


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Press release - 2018
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