Thursday, February 16, 2023

Wempe – Marine Chronometers by Tim Heywood Edition

 

WEMPE GlashütteMaritime Instrument Marine Chronometers by Tim Heywood Edition 2023

Glashütte (Saxony), January 26, 2023 – The production of marine chronometers is part of Wempe’s watchmaking tradition. Since 1905, the company has equipped seagoing vessels with these special timepieces, whose great precision is unaffected by rough seas and ever-changing temperatures. 

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Wempe’s “unified chronometer,” housed in a classic case, has been manufactured (and continuously refined) for the last 80 years. In the latest edition, Wempe now brings nautical tradition and state-of-the-art yacht design together thanks to renowned British ship designer Tim Heywood, who has created striking new marine chronometers available at the end of January 2023.

Timepieces that shaped world history

Tim Heywood is fascinated by the history of marine chronometers, whose introduction in the 18th century enabled safe navigation at sea through the precise determination of longitude – which, among other things, formed the basis for long-distance travel and worldwide trade.

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The marine chronometer’s seemingly simple functionality is based upon its ability to steadfastly indicate the precise time at its home port. Underway, the ship’s crew can see any deviation from noon as precisely set and measured while in port and use this information to calculate the vessel’s position. However, such timepieces are hard to design and construct, and it took centuries to perfect them. Today, the word “chronometer” is used to describe a precise time-piece that must prove its accuracy in a test center specifically designed for chronometer testing. Wempe maintains one of these test centers in Glashütte’s former observatory, where the company has also been building marine chronometers since 2010.

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“These timepieces are aimed at a discerning public aware of the importance of chronometry,” explains Kim-Eva Wempe (60). “They also underscore our expertise and legitimacy in making state-of-the-art marine chronometers.”

The perfection of tradition

The basic movement of the unified chronometer — Type 05 — has proven itself for decades thanks to continuous improvement. For the current Type 06 chronometer movement, every component was redesigned and adapted to cutting-edge manufacturing techniques implemented between 2017 and 2021. This is a major reason for the chronometer’s maximum rate variation of only 0.3 seconds per day while maintaining 56 hours of power reserve. This extraordinary precision is also due to the elaborate chain-and-fusée assembly that ensures that the energy supplied to the gear train by the mainspring as it unwinds always remains constant. The energy is transmitted via an intricate chain that slowly unwinds from a cone called the fusée.

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Gimballed within a cube of fine wood and featuring traditional typography against a light-colored dial, the CW800017 chronometer can be found in the collections of all Wempe showrooms worldwide. Bernhard Stoll (63), CEO of Wempe’s watch division, says, “The purchasers of these timepieces also appreciate the historical instrument look because it represents the highest level of precision.

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The elaborately decorated Type 07 three-bridge movement represents a new generation of technology. Here, each part of the movement was recalculated in Wempe’s workshops; for the balance wheel, for example, the engineers opted for a classic bimetallic construction, albeit with a galvanic coating.

A legend in a new look: A Tim Heywood design for Wempe Marine Chronometers

The Type 07 manufacture movement can be found in two chronometer models designed by world-famous yacht designer Tim Heywood (72), who combines watchmaking heritage with modern composition. Over the past several decades, in which Heywood has created a distinctive look for mega yachts, his process has involved developing a comprehensive overall concept. “I literally start with a blank sheet of paper. The shape of the hull and the large superstructures, as well as the individual lights, are created in consultation with the client,” he explains. 

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Designing a single piece of equipment, like that which Wempe asked him to do, was unusual, but Heywood approached the task the same way he does for his major projects: He wanted to be proud of the final result. A particular challenge inherent in the design of marine chronometers is the fact that they must fit into very different environments; Heywood has certainly mastered this challenge. “The chronometers look as good on traditional boats as they do on a modern yacht — and they fit in with the owner’s country home as well as his city apartment,” he says.

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Kim-Eva Wempe
is also very satisfied with the collaboration. “Tim Heywood’s designs link our watchmaking tradition ideally with the requirements and expressiveness of modern shipbuilding.”

A blue dial and polished meridians

Heywood has equipped the new chronometers with a bold blue dial featuring state-of-the-art typography, while two openings at 4 and 8 o’clock respectively provide glimpses of the movement. The borosilicate glass on the dial side is cut from a solid block.

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Radiating out from the center are twelve meridians — the first chronometers were created to determine exactly these imaginary time boundaries — which continue on the wide, curved glass found on the back.

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The gimbal of the gold-plated brass case looks much like an abstract sculpture when the timepiece is wound with the movement facing upward.

The Wempe Marine Chronometer Cube by Tim Heywood: Symbol of a safe journey

Designer Tim Heywood’s goal was for the chronometer to remind its owner of the wealth of nautical traditions regardless of current location. The dark brown case, which can be ceremonially opened using its three folding doors, contributes to this. 

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The solid corpus is created by laser sintering at Metrica, another specialist in individualized yacht fittings. The case includes a gold-plated time zone map in the lid as well as sixteen coats of varnishing and hand polishing to give the “Cube” a deep glow and make it seaworthy. This chronometer will be available starting from January 26, 2023, at a price of $57,460.


Wempe Marine Chronometer Coco de Mer by Tim Heywood: A nautical work of art

The British designer is known for the soft organic lines of his designs invoking feminine shapes. He points out that ships are, after all, the only objects referred to using feminine pronouns in the English language. However, there is also another reason why Heywood chose the feminine curves of the exotic Coco de Mer nut after which to model this limited chronometer edition of 50 pieces: 

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The humble coconut variation can traverse enormous distances at sea unscathed, making it a perfect symbol for marine chronometry. The triple-doored case of the Coco de Mer is also manufactured by Metrica using laser sintering. The top of its lid is coated with bronze while the inside boasts gold leaf. Sixteen layers of varnish are manually applied to the body, which is then polished by hand. This marine chronometer is limited to 50 numbered pieces and will be available from January 26, 2023, at a price of $91,825.

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About Wempe
The Wempe name is synonymous with fine timepieces and jewelry. This family-owned company, which
is based in Hamburg and was founded in 1878, is headed by Kim-Eva Wempe (who was born in 1962)
and has 32 branches in cities all over the world, including New York, Paris, and London. The company
has been closely connected for generations with the renowned watch manufactures of Switzerland and
Germany. Wempe produces its own Glashütte I/SA brand wristwatch chronometers in Glashütte,
Saxony, and its own By Kim brand jewelry in Schwäbisch Gmünd. In addition, Wempe operates the
largest independent watch workshop in Europe and has been certified as a “Best Place to Learn” in
Germany since 2015
.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 
 
Collection   Maritime Instrument

Model:  Marine Chronometer Cube by Tim Heywood

Reference Number CW800018  

Facts
Movement: Wempe

Oscillating system: 14,400 semi-oscillations per hour (240 per minute)
Dimensions (chronometer): 151.3 (h) x 142.4 (w) x 157.8 mm (d)
Dimensions (case): 215 (h) x 248 (w) x 250 mm (d)
Escapement: Earnshaw detent escapement
Power reserve: 56 hours
Chronometry: Tested according to former norms; maximum rate deviation of 0.3 seconds per day
Functions
Hour, minute, second, power reserve
Controls: Winding system and winding key
Case
Gold-plated brass; outer casing of special composite material;
temperature- and climate-stable, 16 layers of varnish
Crystal: Borosilicate glass
Dial
Blue, Arabic numerals
Hands: Stainless steel, polished/straight graining; Heywood design

Limited Edition 50 pieces 

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Model:  Marine Chronometer Coco de Mer by Tim Heywood

Reference Number CW800019   

Facts
Movement: Wempe

Oscillating system: 14,400 semi-oscillations per hour (240 per minute)
Dimensions (chronometer): 151.3 (h) x 142.4 (w) x 157.8 mm (d)
Dimensions (case): 209 (h) x 212 (w) x 239 mm (d)
Escapement: Earnshaw detent escapement
Power reserve: 56 hours
Chronometry: Tested according to former norms; maximum rate deviation of 0.3 seconds per day
Functions
Hour, minute, second, power reserve
Controls: Winding system and winding key
Case
Gold-plated brass; outer casing of special composite material;
temperature- and climate-stable, 16 layers of varnish
Crystal: Borosilicate glass
Dial
Blue, Arabic numerals
Hands: Stainless steel, polished/straight graining; Heywood design

Limited Edition 50 pieces

 
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Press releases - 2023
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Contact
Nadja Weisweiler
Head of Corporate Communications
Tel.: +49 40 33 44 8-847
E-Mail: nadja.weisweiler@wempe.de

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Wednesday, February 15, 2023

IWC – PORTUGIESER Automatic 40 Salmon Dial

IWC SchaffhausenPORTUGIESER IW358313 Automatic 40 Salmon Dial 2023

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Schaffhausen/Dubai, 10th February 2023: IWC Schaffhausen introduces a new version of the Portugieser Automatic 40 with a stainless steel case and a striking salmon-coloured dial. Introduced to the collection in 2020, the Portugieser Automatic 40 brings back the timeless design of the first Portugieser from the late 1930s in a compact and easily wearable case size of 40 millimetres. This new model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

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In the late 1930s, IWC’s Reference 325 established a classic design idiom which has run as a common thread through the history of the Portugieser family ever since. It featuresa clearly organised and open dial, a characteristic minute’s scale, and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

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The Portugieser Automatic 40 presents this timeless design in an easily wearable case diameter of 40 millimetres.

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The new Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW358313) features a stainless-steel case as well as rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. However, the most eye-catching detail of this new version is the striking salmon-coloured dial. Thanks to the pared-back Portugieser design and the refined sunray finish, the beautiful colour is displayed in all its glory. The black alligator leather strap with a butterfly folding clasp perfectly matches the dial colour.

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This timepiece is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. This robust and precise automatic movement features the winding system developed in the 1950s by IWC’s former Technical Director, Albert Pellaton. Using movements of the rotor in both directions, it efficiently builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. In addition, components like the heart-shaped cam or the clicks are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic.

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The Portugieser Automatic 40 will first be available exclusively in UAE as of February and then available worldwide as of April through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners, or online at IWC.com. The piece is eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: PORTUGIESER Automatic 40mm Salmon Dial

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 Ref. IW358313 

FEATURES
– Mechanical movement
Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Pellaton automatic winding
Small hacking seconds

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured calibre 82200
Mechanical movement Côtes de Genève, perlage
    Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
    Jewels: 31
    Power reserve: 60 h
    Components 192
Winding: Automatic
 
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WATCH
Materials: Stainless-steel case.
Diameter: 40.4 mm
Case height: 12.3 mm
Case-back: See-through sapphire ­ glass
Water-resistant: 3 bar (30m)
DIAL
Salmon dial
Sunray-brushed dial - rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands and applied markers
Glass: Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
STRAP
Black calfskin strap
Strap width 20.0 mm.
Folding clasp in stainless steel

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🔴 Price : incl. VAT 7’450 USD💰
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WARRANTY 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

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Further Information
IWC Schaffhausen Baumgartenstrasse 15 · CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 · Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 · press@iwc.com ·

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Press releases - 2022
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IWC Schaffhausen
Baumgartenstrasse 15 ·
CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 ·
Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 ·
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  info@iwc.com
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