Patek Philippe – Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar

 

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5373P-001 Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar Platinum 2022

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Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with perpetual calendar A highly exclusive timepiece for left-handers and connoisseurs of rarities

Patek Philippe is extending the broad palette of its chronographs and grand complications with the addition of a new timepiece literally made for the right-hand wrists of left-handers. With this goal in mind, the manufacture reinterpreted one of its most refined timepieces: the Ref. 5372 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph. The new Ref. 5373P-001 features a platinum case and modern looks that emphasize its sporty and contemporary style dial. This new model will be produced in small series, appealing especially to left-handers among the connoisseurs of elaborate mechanical movements and passionate watch collectors.

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In 2005, Patek Philippe leveraged its know-how in the field of short-time measurement by launching a new initiative: the manufacture developed a complete series of chronograph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house. The starting signal was given by the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement.

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The caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 (with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module) has a height of only 7.3 mm. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture. Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

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Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers – a genuine debut in the recent history of the maison in Geneva. The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.

Inverted displays and operating elements

With a diameter of 38.3 mm, the platinum case has the same size as the Ref. 5372 but its crown (with an integrated chronograph monopusher) is at 9 o'clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o'clock. 

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It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, and the delicately curved strap lugs that merge with the bars almost seamlessly.

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The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: the analog date at 12 o'clock, the subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock, the moon phases at 6 o'clock and the 60-minute counter at 9 o'clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle at 10:30 and the day/night indicator at 1:30. Patek

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Philippe has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-colored aspect and a vertical satin-finish; it is ingeniously animated by a black gradation to the periphery and the snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in white gold. The moon-phase display is extremely precise: it deviates from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years.

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For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o'clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph commands (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected with the monopusher in the crown at 9 o'clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand (rattrapante) is handled with the rectangular pusher at 8 o'clock.

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A sapphire- crystal display back (interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch) reveals the fantastic architecture of the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style. The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. A focus is also on the elegance of the form parts and the bridges à l’ancienne. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.

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The sporty looks and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap with an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.

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Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. As an exception for left-handers, it is set at 12 o'clock in this timepiece.

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From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in the Ref. 5372P-001 and 5372P-010; both models have been retired from the collection.

An illustrious predecessor

Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (diameter 13 lignes) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays. The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o'clock instead 2 o’clock. 

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 The Art of Patek Philippe - Legendary watches, Habsburg, Feldman, Geneva, 9 April 1989, lot 290.
  Christie's Geneva Lot 266

The silver dial with black Brequet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o'clock and the subsidiary seconds from 9 to 3 o'clock. The uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hand with counterweights stands out as well.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collections: COMPLICATIONS

 Model: Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar

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Ref. 5373P-001

Movement
Calibe CHR 27-525 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel,
chronograph and split-seconds hand, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. 
Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.

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Diameter:  27.3 mm
Height:  7.3 mm (base movement: 5.25 mm; perpetual calendar: 2.05 mm)
Number of parts:  476
Number of jewels:  31
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours – max 48 hours (with the chronograph uncoupled)
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring:  Breguet

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Crown functions:
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand
Pushers:
• Pusher in the crown at 9 o'clock to start, stop, and reset chronograph
• Pusher at 8 o'clock to start and stop the split-seconds hand
Displays:
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands
Subsidiary dials:
• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock
• 60-minute counter at 9 o'clock
• Date at 12 o'clock
Display apertures:
• Day of week at 3 o'clock
• Month at 9 o'clock
• Day/night at 1:30
• Leap-year cycle at 10:30
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock
Correctors:
• Day of week between 2 and 3 o’clock
• Month between 6 and 7 o’clock
• Moon phase between 4 and 5 o’clock
• Date at 6 o'clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Hallmark:
Patek Philippe Seal
Page 4
Features
Case
950 platinum
Delivered with solid platinum back and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 38.3 mm
Height: 12.93 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
Dial
Dial in 18K gold, charcoal-colored with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold
Faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold
Arrow-shaped chronograph and split-seconds hands in Pfinodal, lacquered red, counterweighted 
Snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials:

• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
• 60-minute hand at 9 o'clock, white-gold baton hand, lacquered red
• Date hand at 12 o'clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white

Strap
Black calfskin with embossed textile texture and contrasted red stitching,
platinum fold-over clasp

 Price  Price upon request

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Press Release - 2021
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PATEK PHILIPPE SA GENEVE
Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141 – 1228 Plan-les-Ouates
P.O. Box 2654 – CH - 1211 Geneva 2 - Switzerland
Tel. + 41 22 884 20 20 – Fax + 41 22 884 25 47
-------------------------------------------------------
www.Patek.com

Patek Philippe – Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001

 

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5226G-001 COMPLICATIONS Annual Calendar Travel Time White Gold Automatic 2022

Two useful complications come together for the first time

Patek Philippe combines two of its outstanding patented complications for the first time in one watch: the Annual Calendar (that requires a manual correction only once a year) and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone. The outcome is a travel watch whose date display is synchronized with the respective local time. It simultaneously adjusts the date when the time zone is corrected. The new self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement is endowed with eight patents. To package it in style, the manufacture created a totally new Calatrava case. Its flanks are guilloched with the inimitable hobnail pattern and its dial is framed in the vintage genre inspired by old photo cameras. The same unique design also graces the Ref. 5226G-001 Calatrava, a watch without an additional complication powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement.

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For Patek Philippe, the technical perfection and aesthetic beauty of a timepiece have always had the same significance. The composition of the movement, case, and dial is always in the focus of the manufacture’s creations. With its self-winding movement that features two exclusive functions, its round Calatrava case with unique design and decorative features, and an inimitable dial, the new Ref. 5326G-00 Annual Calendar Travel Time delivers a perfect example of an approach that combines all facets of watchmaking artistry with balanced elegance.

Time for useful complications

In 1996, Patek Philippe merged all of its Genevan ateliers in Plan-les-Ouates under one roof and attracted attention with the launch of it patented Annual Calendar. It is a full calendar with day/date/month that only has to be manually corrected once a year on March 1. To develop the system that automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days, the engineers designed an innovative mechanism based largely on wheels and pinions. Since then, the Annual Calendar has become a highlight among the manufacture’s complicated watches. Today, it comes in a broad selection of ladies’ and men’s wristwatches and is also available in several self-winding flyback chronograph model versions. In the Ref. 5033, Patek Philippe even combined the Annual Calendar with a minute repeater movement.

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It was followed in 1997 by a new technical launch, this time in the domain of travel timepieces. The exclusive Travel Time mechanism features a clutch based on a Patek Philippe patent granted in 1959. The ingenious system indicates a second time zone with a second hour hand from the center. With two pushers in the left-hand case flank, it can be adjusted in one-hour increments in both directions without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Today, the Travel Time function is also available in various watch models, including the self-winding Ref. 5990 Flyback Chronograph or the Ref. 5520 Alarm Travel Time.

A new mechanical challenge

For the first time, Patek Philippe has extended its range of useful complications by combining the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time in one watch. The manufacture departed from the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 31-260 that had been launched in 2011 in the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator (31-260 REG QA) and was then reworked in 2021 for the Ref. 5236 In-line Perpetual Calendar (31-260 PS QL). Among the optimized features introduced in 2021, the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement retains the 20% gain in barrel torque, the increased winding power of the minirotor thanks to the use of platinum, the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a reduction wheel that uncouples automatic winding when the watch is manually wound, which reduces wear. Energy-wise, the performance of the new movement was further improved by a minute wheel suspended between bearing jewels to increase efficiency.

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The connection between the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function involved several technical challenges. The issue wasn’t just to accommodate both mechanisms in the same case. They had to interact in such a way that the displayed date corresponded with local time, hence the time at the location of the wearer of the watch. And it may need to be adjusted when the time zone is corrected. Thus, in the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar. Connoisseurs will be delighted to note that the principle of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater (2017) has been retained. It is the first minute repeater that always sounds local time because the World Time mechanism controls the minute repeater.

Discreet and elegant operation of the Travel Time function with the crown

For the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe redesigned the Travel Time function as well. While the basic principle with two hour hands from the center is retained (solid hand for local time, pierced hand for home time), the two common time zone pushers in the left-hand case flank were replaced with a winding-stem setting mechanism that has three positions. It premiered in 2021 with the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time (Ref. 5269/200R-001). 

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The user merely needs to pull the crown to the middle position and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the local-time hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Aesthetic reasons favored the decision for this discrete crown setting system: Patek Philippe wanted a sleek design in the Calatrava style to emphasize the special motif on the case flanks. Setting the time in the home-time zone is done in the classic manner with the crown in the outermost position. 

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The caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. This function is only active while the crown is pulled to the outermost position. This prevents the movement from stopping when selecting a new time zone and preserves the rate accuracy of the movement. When the owner is not traveling, the two hour hands can be superposed with the crown and will then look like one hand.

An Annual Calendar with accelerated display jumps

To make sure the watch always displays the date that matches the respective local time, the engineers also had to modify the Annual Calendar mechanism. In a conventional annual calendar, the display advance around midnight lasts about 90 minutes, so a date misalignment could occur if the time zone is adjusted in this time span. To assure that users see the correct date longer, Patek Philippe’s engineers shortened the display advance of the Annual Calendar discs by a factor of 5 to about 18 minutes. 

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Thanks to a cam system with partial toothing connected to the hour wheel, the 24-hour wheel executes its rotation in four phases instead of continuously: 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward midnight), 9 hours of standstill, 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward noon), 9 hours of standstill. This improves the coordination of the calendar switching phase with local time. But the word acceleration also suggests higher energy consumption.

Eight new patents for greater reliability and more user-friendliness

To optimize the efficiency, precision, durability, safety, and operating convenience of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the engineers developed several innovations that resulted in eight patent applications. For instance, these technical refinements make it possible to reduce the energy consumption and wear of certain components, to switch from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the calendar when adjusting the time zone, to prevent shifts and double jumps of the displays or avoid damaging parts of the movement if the moon phase, the month, or the day of the week are corrected in a time frame during which this is explicitly inadvisable.

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The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the architecture of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with the elegantly cut and gently curved bridges. It affords a better view of the wheels of the base movement and the exquisite manually executed finissage that reflects the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.

A totally new case with a guilloched hobnail pattern

To accommodate this mechanical movement with its exclusive functions, Patek Philippe created a new white-gold case with a diameter of 41 millimeters. With its slightly chamfered bezel and the polished, inclined lugs, it underscores the sleek and timeless elegance of the Calatrava design yet expresses its very own distinctive personality.  

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The case middle displays Patek Philippe’s signature hobnail motif along its entire circumference. The subtly shining pattern of tiny pyramids was showcased on the bezel of the famous Ref. 3919 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 1985; it was produced for over 20 years and became one of the best-known models of the watch world. In 2021, it experienced a strong comeback in the new, highly contemporary Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” that is made in rose gold and white gold. On the case of the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time, it provides a new perspective of this very refined element of the Patek Philippe style. To allow the hobnail pattern to so elegantly adorn the complete flank of the caseband, Patek Philippe conceived an exceptional case design in which the strap lugs are attached to the case back.

A vintage-look dial

Another unique facet of the Ref. 5326G-001 is its vintage-style dial. It is crafted entirely by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist which has belonged to Patek Philippe since 2004. The dial is charcoal gray with a fine gradation to the periphery and has a slightly granular structure that is reminiscent of the cases of old photo cameras. It is an aspect that quickly associates with getaways, wanderlust and exploration. 

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The time of day is shown by applied Arabic numerals in white gold with beige luminous coatings. The hours of local time and the minutes are displayed with luminous white-gold “Seringue” hands that with their long tips resemble syringes. A pierced “Seringue” hand indicates the hours of home time. The three apertures of the Annual Calendar – day of the week and month on one line at 12 o'clock, date at 6 o'clock – show easily legible black inscriptions on white backgrounds.

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Two small round windows marked “LOCAL” at 8 o'clock and “HOME” at 4 o'clock are day/night indicators for local time and home time, respectively. This balanced arrangement is complemented by the subsidiary seconds that sweeps the moon-phase aperture at 6 o'clock. The calendar indications can be adjusted with the aid of small correctors in the caseband located near the respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o'clock. The vintage aspect is emphasized with a slightly raised box-design sapphire-crystal glass.

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The new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time is delivered with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture (original version), the other black calfskin with embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching (additional strap). Both straps underscore the vintage style of the dial. They both assure comfort and safety with a fold-over clasp in 18K white gold.

A unique experience – listening to customers

In its quest to repeatedly develop new functions and complications, Patek Philippe can rely on over 180 years of uninterrupted experience that allow it to offer reliable and exceptional models. The new Ref. 5326G-001 is a fine example. When creating its timepieces, the manufacture always leverages its entire know-how for the benefit of its customers. 

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It is resolutely handed down from one generation to the next and belongs to the rich heritage of technical progress crowned by over one hundred patents. The Annual Calendar and the Travel Time mechanism perfectly illustrate Patek Philippe’s customer-centric development philosophy – now, they have come together in the new Ref. 5326G-001.

The inception of a style

For those who particularly appreciate the exclusive design of the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe can offer a further watch in the Calatrava collection with the same aesthetic looks for the case and dial but with a somewhat smaller diameter (40 millimeters) and without additional functions. 

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This new Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 in white gold with a guilloched hobnail motif on the caseband is powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement with center hour, minute, and second hands and an aperture date at 3 o'clock. It, too, is delivered with two interchangeable straps similar to those that come with the Ref. 5326G-001. It is another perfect fusion of movement, case, and dial the Patek Philippe way.

The eight patents of the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement

⦁    Timesetting with three crown positions (Swiss patent application CH 716383 A2)

This timesetting system has a lever with three positions that can deactivate certain wheels as long as they are not performing any correction. This reduces energy consumption and wear of the respective wheels. The result is a gain for the balance amplitude (rate accuracy) and for reliability

⦁    Forward/backward mechanism for the Annual Calendar (European patent application EP 3776095 A1)

This system relies mainly on the addition of a tooth and a spring on the month lever that allows the transition from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the date. Therefore, the user can easily switch the time zone forward or backward with the winding stem.

⦁    Linear time-zones spring (European patent EP 3650953 B1)

This system consists of a star wheel and a jumper spring. It allows a strong torque increase between the local time hour wheel and the home time hour wheel and thus an acceleration of the date jumps despite the increase in energy consumption. It provides the user with more precise information.

⦁    Pivotable holding bridge (European patent applications EP 3714336 A1 and 070431/2021)

This system keeps the day disc in position without the use of a center screw. To remove the disc, the watchmaker merely needs to pivot the bridge to the side. This releases the star without requiring the disassembly of the movement and without any modification of the settings. This timesaving and simplification is part of the improvements in watch maintenance.

⦁    Inertial delta (European patent application EP 3822711 A1)

This mechanism offsets the inertia difference between a heavier and a lighter wheel. When the time zone is being corrected in either direction, it prevents an unintended forward or backward misalignment of the time displays (home time, local time, minutes). This increases the accuracy of the displays.

⦁    Braking mechanism for the date disc when a correction is made (European patent application EP 3882716 A1)

This system with an additional spring (brake) is only active when the crown is pulled to the middle position. It prevents double jumps of the date disc if the user exerts too much force. It safeguards the greater reliability of the mechanism (amplitude gain and wear reduction).

⦁    Flexible correctors (European patent application 20205322.9)

With a system of flexible leaf springs for switching protection purposes, this mechanism prevents the risk of a material failure when the user performs a correction during an unfavorable time window. This improves the reliability and longevity of the movement.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collections: COMPLICATIONS

 Model:  Patek Philippe COMPLICATIONS Annual Calendar Travel Time in 18K white gold

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Ref. 5326G-001

Mouvement
Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement
Annual Calendar with aperture displays for the day, date, and month
Two Travel Time zones (local time and home time) with day/night indicators for local and home timeMoon phases and small seconds
Diameter    :    33 mm
Inside case
diameter    :    31.74 mm
Height    :    5.6 mm (2.6 mm for the base movement, 3 mm for the Annual Calendar and Travel Time module)
Components    :    409
Jewels     :    47
Power reserve     :    Min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours
Winding rotor     :    Off-center minirotor in 950 platinum
Unidirectional winding
Frequency     :    28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance    :    Gyromax®
Balance spring     :    Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud     :    Adjustable
Functions :    3-position crown:

    Pushed home: manual winding
    Pulled to middle position: Setting of local time in either direction in one-hour steps
    Pulled all the way out: Setting of home time with hours and minutes, stop seconds

Displays:    With hands:
    Hour hands for local and home time and minute hand from the center
    Subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock
    :    In apertures:

•     Day and month on one line at 12 o'clock
•     Date at 6 o'clock
•     Day/night indicator for local time at 8 o'clock
•     Day/night indicator for home time at 4 o'clock
•     Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors:    Month at 2 o'clock
Date at 4 o'clock
Moon phases at 8 o’clock
Day of week at 10 o'clock
Hallmark     :    Patek Philippe seal
Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant     :    To 30 m (3 bar)
Diameter    :    41 mm
Height     :    11.07 mm (crystal to display back)
Dial   
Granular, charcoal gray with black gradation to the periphery
Applied numerals in 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Railway track minute scale and beige printed markers
Seringue hands for local time hours and minutes, 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Pierced Seringue hand for home time hours, 18K white gold, lacquered beige
Small seconds with dagger hand, 18k white gold lacquered beige
Bracelets
Calfskin with nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Delivered with additional calfskin strap with embossed textile pattern, black with beige decorative stitching
Buckle :    Fold-over clasp in 18K white gold

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Press Release - 2022
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PATEK PHILIPPE SA GENEVE
Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141 – 1228 Plan-les-Ouates
P.O. Box 2654 – CH - 1211 Geneva 2 - Switzerland
Tel. + 41 22 884 20 20 – Fax + 41 22 884 25 47
-------------------------------------------------------
www.Patek.com

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5235 COMPLICATIONS Annual Calendar Regulator

 

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5235 COMPLICATIONS Annual Calendar Regulator White Gold Automatic 2021

Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator embodies a number of novel facets never before featured in the manufacture’s collection. It is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a regulator dial, characterized by a sweep minute hand, a subsidiary hour dial at 12 o’clock and a seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The heart of the watch is the new caliber 31-260 REG QA, the first ultra-thin self-winding Patek Philippe movement with a mini-rotor that displays the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. It is also the very first totally new basic movement designed to accommodate Silinvar® components: The escape wheel and the lever of the Pulsomax® escapement as well as the Spiromax® balance spring are made of the innovative silicon-based material. The new wristwatch is endowed with an Annual Calendar that displays the month, day, and date in apertures and ranks among Patek Philippe’s most popular complications.

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The Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator clearly affirms the manufacture’s philosophy according to which the paramount purpose of a watch is to keep the time as accurately and reliably as possible. The dial with the unusual arrangement – large sweep minute hand combined with subsidiary hours at 12 o’clock and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock – pays tribute to the prominent free-standing precision pendulum clocks that for more than 200 years kept the precise time in watchmaking workshops and observatories until they were finally superseded by quartz- and radio-controlled reference instruments. When adjusting their timepieces, watchmakers needed an unobstructed view of the seconds hand, which is why the hour display was moved to an off-center location where it would not sweep over and thus partially cover the seconds dial for several hours in the course of a day. One of the finest examples of this type of freestanding precision clocks is the Patek Philippe & Co. regulator built at the beginning of the last century. For many years it has been keeping the time unperturbed – second by second – in the office of Philippe Stern, the company’s honorary president. 

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To configure the face of a regulator clock with three separate displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds in a wristwatch format was a totally new venture in the Patek Philippe cosmos, not just from a design point of view. The plan was to set the stage for further innovations based on this novel layout. The legendary caliber 240 would have been the ideal choice for the assignment which called for a very thin self-winding movement, but most unconventionally, its subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at 5 instead of 6 o’clock. 

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Launched in 1977 and featuring a 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the main plate, the 240 movement is only 2.53 mm high; it still ranks among the thinnest self-winding calibers on the market and thus provided valuable inspiration for the new development. With the assets of its dependable predecessor and several trailblazing innovations, Patek Philippe’s new self-winding caliber 31-260 REG QA has everything it takes to define a new benchmark. Squarely centered between the middle of the movement and its outermost circumference, the size of the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock was maximized for optimum legibility – another homage to Patek Philippe’s philosophy as regards the equilibrium of timekeeping indications.

Innovation N° 1:
The oscillator in Silinvar®  

For the first time in the history of Patek Philippe, a movement was designed from the very beginning to accommodate oscillator components crafted from Silinvar®, a high-tech material derived from silicon. One of them is the Spiromax® balance spring that is flat yet breathes absolutely concentrically thanks to its exclusive and patented geometry with the Patek Philippe terminal curve. It controls the division of time by the Pulsomax® escapement whose Silinvar® lever and escape wheel also feature totally new geometries developed by Patek Philippe and for which patent applications have been filed.  

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The enhanced isochronism delivered by the Spiromax® hairspring and the improved energy efficiency provided by the Pulsomax® escapement contribute significantly to higher rate accuracy and long-term dependability. Additionally, Silinvar® components are totally anti-magnetic, remarkably shock-resistant, non-corroding, and require no lubrication.

Innovation N° 2:
A new going train – tooth by tooth 

But Patek Philippe’s engineers wanted more than a new oscillator. They totally revamped the going train, the wheels and pinions between the mainspring barrel and the escape wheel. The shapes of the wheel teeth and the leaves of the pinions were analyzed in-depth, recalculated, and individually redesigned for the center wheel, the third wheel, and the fourth wheel with their respective pinions.  

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These new profiles improve the meshing of wheel teeth and pinion leaves, reduce friction, increase the tolerance range for varying axis distances, and boost the efficiency of energy transmission from the spring barrel to the escape wheel. The result is a perceptible improvement of energy conversion efficiency with a concurrent reduction of wear.

Innovation N° 3:
An unusual frequency of 3.2 hertz  

The innovative efficiency-boosting and isochronism-improving technologies of the new regulator caliber 31-260 REG QA entail further positive consequences. While the classic self-winding caliber 240 beats at a rate of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, the frequency of the new movement was increased by nearly 10% to 23,040 vph, equivalent to 3.2 Hz, and at the same time, its power reserve was increased. In turn, a higher frequency makes it possible to more easily adjust the rate accuracy to - 3/+2 seconds per 24 hours as stipulated by the Patek Philippe Seal. 

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Concurrently, thanks to the greater energy efficiency of the going train and escapement, it was possible to reduce the tension of the mainspring and thus the shear forces to which the wheels are exposed. This diminishes friction between the fine wheel pivots and the bearing jewels, further enhancing longevity and reliability. These two aspects are crucial for compliance with the Patek Philippe Seal and essential prerequisites for a watch that will be cherished by family members across generations.

Innovation N° 4:
An extra-long mainspring for power to spare 

Thanks to the energy efficiency of the caliber, it proved possible to choose a softer but also longer mainspring. So despite its increased frequency and the deployment of only one mainspring barrel, the new caliber 31-260 REG QA has a power reserve of up to 60 hours as opposed to a maximum of 48 hours for the caliber 240.  

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The extended length of the mainspring has another advantage: its torque curve stays much flatter as it relaxes, so the amplitude of the balance and thus its rate remain stable most of the time between the fully wound and the fully unwound states. The result: greater rate accuracy for a longer period of time. And the option to set the watch aside for an entire weekend without having to readjust the time and the calendar on Monday morning.

Further significant innovations

Patek Philippe introduced further innovations to maximize the life and long-term reliability of the new Annual Calendar Regulator. Like all self-winding Patek Philippe movements, the caliber 31-260 REG QA can also be manually wound. However, the manual winding mechanism is always automatically uncoupled as long as the self-winding mode is active. 

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This increases its winding power and reduces wear. In addition, the crown wheel of the manual winding mechanism was upgraded with a new toothing mechanism that reduces wear, improves efficiency, and optimizes the suppleness of the winding process. Moreover, the 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the plate is 0.3 mm thicker than the one in the caliber 240 movement, which increases its mass and winding power. Decorated with Geneva circular graining, it is also a miniature masterpiece from the aesthetic point of view.

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In comparison with the meanwhile 34-year-old caliber 240, the new caliber 31-260 REG QA beats at a 10% higher frequency and has 25% higher power reserve, which adds up to an efficiency increase of about 30%. This performance emphasizes the ample potential of mechanical watches and in times of global energy debates serves as a role model because it proves that even in traditional disciplines such as classical mechanics, substantial efficiency gains are still realistic.

Self-winding Annual Calendar with aperture displays

The new Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator measures time with an accuracy of seconds, but it also correctly displays larger intervals of time. The new basic caliber incorporates an Annual Calendar mechanism that has been one of the manufacture’s bestsellers since it had its debut 15 years ago. This useful complication that displays the day, month, and date in three large apertures automatically recognizes 30-day and 31-day months and only needs to be corrected once a year: on March 1.  

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On account of this calendar cadrature, the caliber designation is 31-260 REG QA; the movement consists of 320 parts (basic caliber 181, Annual Calendar 139), measures 5.08 mm in height (basic caliber 2.60 mm, Annual Calendar 2.48 mm), and has a diameter of 33 mm (basic caliber 31.74 mm, Annual Calendar 33.00 mm). The dimensions are ideal for a wristwatch conceived to be timelessly elegant.

New regulator face with a classic Calatrava personality

Despite the unusual regulator layout of the dial, the new Patek Philippe wristwatch is as fetchingly graceful as all the timepieces crafted in the workshops in Geneva. Its case features the classic Calatrava silhouette that has defined the quintessential round wristwatch for nearly 70 years. Thanks to the ultra-thin movement, its height is a mere 11 mm, astonishing for a self-winding watch with an Annual Calendar.  

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With a diameter of 40.5 mm, it is endearingly poised and tastefully contemporary. The classic three-part case ensemble with the bezel, the band, and the back in 18K white gold is a prime example of the Bauhaus philosophy expressed by the adage "form follows function." The bezel is gently chamfered and the caseband is decorated with straight graining – a perfect match with the satin-finished dial. The slightly sloped lugs extend the bezel’s chamfer, optimizing the contour of the watch for a snug fit on the wrist. It is worn on a precious hand-stitched night-blue alligator strap with square scales. The classic 18K white-gold prong buckle that secures the strap is engraved with the Patek Philippe signature. The display back of the case allows the owner to admire the movement with its exclusive components and lavish decorations: the new oscillator assembly with the Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring as well as the mini-rotor decorated with Geneva circular graining, the Geneva striping on the beveled bridges, and the gold-filled engravings.

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The sapphire-crystal glass protects the inimitable face of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 with its characteristic sweep minute hand, the subsidiary hours dial at 12 o’clock, and the amply dimensioned subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The large aperture displays of the Annual Calendar are arranged on a circle that is concentric with the bezel: the day of the week at 10 o’clock, the month at 2 o’clock, and the date at 6 o’clock. Engraved in the dial, the PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE signature is aligned with the horizontal axis at 3 o’clock. Depending on the angle of the incident light, it changes in contrast from deep black to a silvery gray that seems to be just a gentle shadow on the textured dial.  

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Blue transfer-printed numerals, markers, and scales always assure excellent legibility of the time. The railway track minute scale as well as the subsidiary dials for the hours and seconds have a brighter silvery gray background that stands out against the darker silvery gray central portion of the dial with the short blue 5-minute markers. Crisp Arabic numerals, blued-steel baton-style hands and blue calendar indications on white backgrounds underscore the cool technical elegance of this 2011 wristwatch that salutes the ultra-precise freestanding regulator clocks of old. The two-tone silvery gray dial features a vertical satin finish, and the two subsidiary dials scintillate with circular graining.

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The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator is yet another manifestation of how consummately the Geneva workshops master the amalgamation of avant-garde aesthetics with timeless elegance. The innovative personality of this watch is based on much more than appearances: it is derived from a mechanical heart that sets new standards in horology. Absolutely Patek Philippe-like.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collections: COMPLICATIONS

 Model:  Patek Philippe COMPLICATIONS Annual Calendar Regulator in 18K white gold

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Ref. 5235-50G-001

Movement
Caliber 31-260 REG QA
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement,
Annual Calendar with aperture displays for month, day of week, and date.
Overall Diameter : 33 mm (basic caliber 31.74 mm, Annual Calendar 33.00 mm)
Height : 5.08 mm (basic caliber 2.60 mm, Annual Calendar 2.48 mm)
Number of parts : 320 (basic caliber 181, Annual Calendar 139)
Number of jewels : 29
Power reserve :    Max. 60 hours
Winding rotor :    22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Balance : Gyromax®
Frequency : 23,040 semi-oscillations per hour (3.2 Hz)
Balance spring : Spiromax®
Escapement : Pulsomax® (lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud :  Adjustable
Functions : Two-position crown:
 – Pulled out: To set the time
 – Pushed in:  To wind the watch
Corrector push pieces :    
 – Date between 9 and 10 o'clock
 – Month at 10 o'clock
 – Day at 9 o'clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Displays : Sweep minute hand
Subsidiary dials :    
 – Subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock
 – Subsidiary hours at 12 o'clock
Apertures :   
 – Day at 10 o'clock and month at 2 o'clock
 – Date at 6 o'clock
Hallmark : Patek Philippe Seal
Case
18K white gold, sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant : to 30m
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height:     10.65 mm
Width between lugs:    20mm
Dial
Two-tone silvery gray, vertical satin finish, blue transfer printed
Regulator displays
Hour, minute, and second hands in blued steel
Railway track minute scale on periphery, blue
Transfer printed PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE engraving at 3 o'clock
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, matt night-blue, hand-stitched,
16- mm prong buckle in 18K white gold with "Patek Philippe" engraving

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Price    US$ 53,000.


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Press Release - 2021
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PATEK PHILIPPE SA GENEVE
Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141 – 1228 Plan-les-Ouates
P.O. Box 2654 – CH - 1211 Geneva 2 - Switzerland
Tel. + 41 22 884 20 20 – Fax + 41 22 884 25 47
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www.Patek.com