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This 200m Grand Seiko diver’s watch from the Evolution 9
Collection has a deep black, richly textured dial inspired by the
dynamic and sometimes violent tides caused by the Black Stream, or
Kuroshio current that surrounds the Japanese archipelago.
The watch exhibits the Evolution 9 Style, a new grammar of design
that enhances the Grand Seiko Style established in 1967 and takes the
beauty, legibility and comfort of Grand Seiko to a new level. Its
Zaratsu polished, distortion-free mirror finish and delicate hairline
finish alternate to give the case a quiet and harmonious glow.
A new
font has been created for the numerals on the bezel especially for the
collection. The lugs are wider and the bracelets are more robust and,
like the cases, have a low center of gravity to ensure that the watches
sit comfortably and securely on the wrist.
The watch’s case and bracelet are made of high-intensity titanium,
which is about 30% lighter than stainless steel and brighter in color.
The inner section of the rotating bezel is in ceramic to protect the
watch from being scratched.
The hands and indexes are coated with
sufficient Lumibrite to further enhance the legibility of the time at
night. The crown guard is carefully designed to avoid being caught on
the sleeve in both sport activities and everyday use.
The watch is powered by the latest Spring Drive movement, Caliber
9RA5, which offers an accuracy rate of ±10 seconds per month and a 5 day
power reserve. Caliber 9RA5 has enhanced rigidity and shock resistance
thanks to the new layout of the gear train towards the center of the
movement and a central bridge that holds them together.
This One-piece
Center Bridge achieves a shock resistance that meets the ISO standard
for diver’s watches. The movement incorporates two barrels which deliver
a power reserve of up to 120 hours.
They are different sizes so as to
deliver the torque required for the five day power reserve while
optimizing the use of the limited space within the movement.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model:Grand SeikoEvolution 9Spring Drive5 Days Titanium - Caliber 9RA5
Movement Winding mechanism
Automatic with manual winding
Caliber no.: 9RA5 Instructions Movement Type: Spring Drive Accuracy: ±0.5 second per day (±10 seconds per month) Functions Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Power reserve indicator
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Power reserve Approximately 120 hours (5 days) Number of jewels 38 jewels Weight: 150 g Other details / Features: Unidirectional rotating bezel Screw-down crown Three-fold clasp with secure lock Power reserve indicator
Exterior
Case: High-intensity Titanium Textured Dial
Case back: Screw case back Glass Material: Sapphire crystal Glass Coating: Anti-reflective coating on inner surface LumiBrite: LumiBrite on hands, index(es) and bezel Case size: Diameter 43.8mm Lug-to-lug 51.5mm Thickness 13.8mm Band width: 23mm Clasp type: Three-fold clasp with secure lock & push button release, solid & slide adjuster The perimeter of Band: 185mm
Together, the motion of the new mechanism and its unique sound give Kodo its signature heartbeat.
Today marks a new milestone in the sixty-two year history of Grand Seiko with the introduction of the brand’s first mechanical complication watch, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. At its heart is a uniquely innovative movement that delivers a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for Grand Seiko by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history.
The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat. With its unique appearance when in motion and with its carefully designed sound, this revolutionary watch reveals its vitality both audibly and visually, thanks to the open-work design and the sapphire case back.
Most remarkable of all is the way that the constant-force mechanism and the tourbillon have been integrated together to allow the creation of an overall design that is perfectly in harmony with the values of Grand Seiko and whose technical ingenuity is encased in a watch of great elegance and wearability.
The Grand Seiko Kodo will be available as a limited edition of twenty in October 2022.
From concept to reality
In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced the “T0Constant-force Tourbillon”, a concept movement which incorporated this patented mechanism. To bring the concept to life in a finished watch required the complete dedication of a team comprising designers, engineers and craftsmen and women entrusted with the assembly and finishing of the movement and the case.
Each and every one of the 340 components of the caliber was re-examined, and, where necessary, re-designed and re-engineered for production. The result is Caliber 9ST1. Not only is Caliber 9ST1 smaller than its concept movement predecessor but its high accuracy remains stable for longer thanks to the constant-force mechanism.
Furthermore, Caliber 9ST1 sets a new standard of accuracy, in which each movement is tested for a full 48 hours in each of six positions and at three temperatures. This is twice as long as the Grand Seiko and industry standard. Each movement is assessed over the course of 34 days to verify its accuracy, and when the tests are completed and this new standard has been met or exceeded, the performance characteristics of each movement are defined in the individual certificate provided with every watch.
From the inception of the project to the realization of Kodo in its finished form required ten years of skill, dedication and hard work.
Innovation in precision, beauty and sound
Caliber 9ST1 is complex in its engineering and design but is based on the simple insight that the integration of a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis would deliver practical benefits. Because there are no wheels or other components between the two mechanisms, there is no loss or change in the torque transmitted from the constant-force mechanism to the balance wheel.
The constant-force carriage (left) and tourbillon carriage (right) are integrated together.
This leads to an increased duration of 50 hours for the constant-force mechanism and a more stable amplitude of the balance. Together, these characteristics deliver the very stable accuracy of the movement. In addition, and crucially for Grand Seiko, the volume of the movement could be reduced, allowing the aesthetics of Grand Seiko to be respected and the watch to be eminently wearable and perfectly comfortable on the wrist.
The integration of the two mechanisms allows the optimum use of space.
The integration of the two mechanisms creates a dazzling visual effect. The inner tourbillon carriage rotates smoothly as the balance steadily vibrates at 8-beats per second and the outer constant-force carriage follows its rotation at exact one-second intervals. The sounds of the escapement and of the once-per-second impulse of the constant-force mechanism harmonize with this regular visual rhythm to create, for both the eye and the ear, a deeply satisfying and re-assuring heartbeat. There is a powerful yet gentle charm to the sound that is set to a 16th note or semi-quaver which is made possible by 9ST1 being the movement with the highest frequency* ever to incorporate a constant-force mechanism. *as of February 2022, based on Grand Seiko’s research.
While this remarkable watch is in every way a new departure for Grand Seiko’s watchmaking, the practicality for which Grand Seiko is renowned is still fully realized in every detail. The constant-force carriage has a ruby on one of its arms, which acts as a small seconds hand. The watch incorporates a hacking function so that the rotating tourbillon carriage can be stopped when the crown is pulled out, allowing the time to be adjusted to the precise second. The hour hand has an extra facet at its tip to enhance its readability. In addition, Kodo offers 10 bar water resistance.
Light, shadow and space
Thanks to the integration of the two key mechanisms, Caliber 9ST1 has room to breathe within the case and there is sufficient space for light to penetrate, through both the front and back of the case, revealing the beauty of the hand finishing. For the same reason, the delicate interplay of light and shadow that is central to the Grand Seiko aesthetic is there to be enjoyed in the subtle shade gradations, angles and textures. Each major component is painstakingly finished by hand using a variety of techniques to endow the overall movement with the quiet yet enduring sparkle that is the hallmark of Grand Seiko.
The sapphire crystal case back reveals the beauty of the movement’s finishing and its intricate construction.
The case is constructed from both Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium to achieve a long-lasting beauty. Some case parts of both materials are Zaratsu polished and others have a hairline finish; both processes are completed by hand by highly skilled craftsmen and women to ensure that, from every angle, a visually pleasing harmony is revealed. The two case materials combine most evidently at the tapered end of the lugs where a small open space between each lug adds a lightness and unique aspect to the overall design.
The
watch is offered with a calf strap specially treated in the same
traditional way as was used to create the high-durability material once
used in the armor of Samurai. The strap’s surface is painted by hand
with Urushi lacquer in a multi-coating process that gives the strap a
delicate sheen. The watch also comes with an alternative crocodile
strap.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model:Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force TourbillonEdition
Movement Caliber 9ST1 Driving system: manual-winding Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second) Accuracy: +5 to -3 seconds per day (when static for 48 hours) Power reserve: 72hours Number of jewels: 44 Constant-force Tourbillon (Constant-force: 50 Hours) Diameter: 35.0mm, Thickness: 7.98mm
Functions Water resistance : 10 bar Magnetic resistance : 4,800 A/m Other details / Features : ・Case back with 6 screws ・LIMITED EDITION on the case back ・Power reserve indicator ・See-through case back ・Serial number engraved on the case back
Exterior Case Material : Platinum 950and Brilliant Hard Titanium Glass Material : Box shaped sapphire crystal Glass Coating : Anti-reflective coating on inner surface Case size : Diameter 43.8mm Lug-to-lug 50.6mm Thickness 12.9mm Clasp type : Three-fold clasp with push button release
Option strap XGL00122 Band width：22mm Clasp width：18mm Color：Black Material：Crocodile It will be available from2022.07
Specifications Platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium case Box shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through case back Water resistance: 10 bar Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m Diameter: 43.8mm, Thickness: 12.9mm Calf strap with Platinum 950 three-fold clasp with push button release Double-sided crocodile strap included
Approximate recommended retail price in the USA: $350,000
In 1986, Seiko launched a diver’s watch that set a new standard. It combined Seiko’s legendary 1975 design with the 1,000 meter water resistance required for saturation diving with a quartz movement that delivered an accuracy that no mechanical diver’s watch could match. At the time, and still today, it was recognized as one of Seiko’s most important diver’s watches. Today, 35 years on, this classic Seiko Diver’s watch is re-born with new design features and upgraded professional diver’s watch specifications. This is a watch that truly lives up to the promise of the Prospex name. It will be available in July 2021 as a limited edition of 1,200 at selected Seiko Boutiques and retail partners worldwide.
The 1986 original. A quartz diver’s watch made expressly for 1000m saturation diving. Inheriting features from the past, introducing new features for today.
The dial color changes gradually from blue at the top to black at the bottom.
This new watch inherits all the important design features and innovations which made both the 1975 mechanical and the 1986 quartz original so greatly trusted by the professional diving community. It has the 1,000m water resistance and helium resistance that saturation diving requires and incorporates the unique one-piece titanium case with its outer protector structure that makes its shock resistance so exceptional. It also has the accordion-style strap that ensures that the watch remains tight on the wrist at every depth. The outer protector is made of zirconia ceramic, which is seven times harder than steel, further enhancing its resistance to shock. The strap is now of high grade, strong yet flexible silicone.
As a new safety and design feature, the crown is marked with a vivid yellow “Lock” sign and an arrow to indicate the rotating direction. The winding stem is also in yellow so that the wearer can immediately notice if the crown is unlocked. The white hour markers stand out against the dark dial so that they are easy to read at depth.
The watch is offered with extra-strength silicone straps in both black and blue-gray, ensuring wearability both on a wetsuit and directly on the wrist. Each strap features the text “FORSATURATION DIVING 1000m” in yellow.
The watch is equipped with Seiko’s tried and trusted quartz Caliber 7C46 which delivers a high level of torque so that it can move the powerful hands that are wide, robust and Lumibrite-coated for maximum legibility. It also delivers a reassuringly long battery life of 5 years.
Caliber 7C46 Driving system: quartz Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (between 5°C and 35°C) Titanium inner case Zirconia ceramic outer protector Sapphire crystal Lumibrite on hands and indexes Screw-down crown Diameter: 49.4mm, Thickness: 16.3mm Water resistance: 1,000m saturation diver’s Magnetic resistance: 4,800A/m Extra-strength silicone straps in black and blue gray
Movement Caliber Number 7C46 Movement Type Quartz Accuracy ±15 seconds per month Battery life Approx. 5 years Exterior Crystal Sapphire crystal LumiBrite Lumibrite on hands, indexes and bezel Band Material Silicone
Other Details Water Resistance 1000m / 3300ft for saturation diving Magnetic Reluctance Equipped Case Size Diameter: 49.4 ㎜ Thickness: 16.3 ㎜ Length: 49.4 ㎜ Weight 118.5 g Bracelet Length 210 ㎜
Other Specifications An additional silicone strap is included LIMITED EDITION on the case back One-piece structure Screw-down crown Serial number engraved on the case back Unidirectional rotating bezel Other Features Day/Date display
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €2,700 Limited Edition of 1,200pieces
Anew Spring Drive Chronograph with gold highlights joins the Grand Seiko Sport Collection.
Kintaro Hattori founded his company in 1881 and led it until his death at the age of 73 in 1934. His credo was that his company should be “Always one step ahead of the rest” and, while it was not created until 1960, nothing better expresses the power of his vision than Grand Seiko with its unique design, leading edge manufacturing and exquisite finishing.
In honor of the 140th anniversary of the foundation of the company, Grand Seiko proudly announces a new Spring Drive chronograph that perfectly embodies Kintaro Hattori’s vision.
Zirconia ceramic, 18k gold and a refined new look
This powerful watch allies all the high functionality of the Spring Drive chronograph Caliber 9R86with a new design and a new combination of materials. The result is a timepiece of rare refinement. The bezel catches the eye immediately with its dodecahedron shape, its zirconia ceramic outer layer and 18k gold base. Thanks to this combination of materials, it is both strikingly beautiful and highly durable.
The case, too, uses contrast to deliver a visually arresting impression. Its top surfaces have been given a hairline finish while the sides showcase the distortion-free perfection that only Zaratsu polishing can deliver. The dial is as rich as it is legible.
The gold color hands and hour markers stand out against the pure black dial and, as the markers are aligned exactly to each apex of the twelve-edged bezel, both time of day and elapsed time can be read precisely and at a glance.
The 18k yellow gold buttons that operate the chronograph are prominent and designed to ensure secure operation but they are also streamlined so as to look just as good when under a shirt cuff as on the sports field.
The Grand Seiko initials in 18k gold grace the clasp of the bracelet which is affixed to the watch while an additional crocodile strap with gold color stitches is also included in its presentation case. A chronograph of ultimate precision
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive chronograph may be the most precise chronograph in the world. It measures elapsed time up to twelve hours with an accuracy rate of +/- one second a day, whether the chronograph is in use or not and, thanks to the regulation system that is unique to Spring Drive, the precision remains at this high level even when the power reserve is low.
Equally importantly, it measures time not to the nearest fraction of a second but exactly, thanks to the fact that the glide motion hands stop at the very instant that the button is pressed and not just at the nearest “tick”. The precision of its operation is ensured by column wheel and vertical clutch systems which were first used together by the company in 1969.
Caliber 9R86 has more than 400 parts and all are made and hand assembled by the skilled craftsmen and women in the Shinshu Watch Studio in central Japan.
The watch will be available as a limited edition of 500 at Grand Seiko Boutiques and selected Grand Seiko retailers worldwide in July 2021.
Movement Caliber 9R86 Driving system: Automatic with manual winding mechanism Vibrations: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second) Accuracy: ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month) Power reserve: 72hours Chronograph up to 12 hours Number of jewels: 50
Instant date change
Date display Features
Power reserve indicator
Dual time function with 24-hour hand
Quick correction function of time difference adjusting to a calendar
Stopwatch function
Case Stainless steel case and bracelet Zirconia ceramic and 18k yellow gold bezel 18k yellow gold push buttons Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating Screw see-through case back, Screw-down crown Diameter: 43.8mm, Thickness: 16.1mm
High definition box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Screw see-through case back
Case back with lion emblem LIMITED EDITION on the case back
Serial number engraved on the case back Water resistance: 10 bar Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m Strap An additional crocodile strap is included. Clasp type: Three-fold clasp with push button release
Approximate recommended retail price in USD 18,600
SEIKO – Grand SeikoT0Constant-force Tourbillon Concept 60th Anniversary Movement - 2020
TheT0 Constant-force Tourbillon. Grand Seikoreveals an exciting concept creation with a world’s-first mechanism.
Ever since the first Grand Seiko watch was born in 1960, the pursuit for high accuracy has been fundamental in every Grand Seiko timepiece and innovation. Today, a new and exciting moment in its 60-year history is marked by the introduction of the brand's first-ever concept creation.
The new creation is a masterwork and true revolution in watchmaking design and fully reveals the Grand Seiko designers' capabilities and ingenuity. The T0(T-zero) Constant-force Tourbillon incorporates a fully integrated constant-force mechanism and tourbillon on the same axis for the first time in the world.
The constant-force mechanism provides even energy distribution to the escapement regardless of how much the mainspring is wound, and the tourbillon eliminates the error in precision caused by gravity by incorporating the escapement parts and balance in a rotating carriage. These two mechanisms alone require exceptional design and manufacturing technologies, and the integration of the mechanisms as one unit is a patented design that achieves a new level of accuracy for Grand Seiko's mechanical watchmaking.
In pursuit of the highest level of accuracy for mechanical watchmaking, the designers conceptualized the new creation without restrictions from production capability considerations. The free approach to development resulted in the birth of T0 and inspired essential movement parts for the new Caliber 9SA5, which was developed in parallel with the concept creation.
T0is displayed on the second-floor lounge of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi inaugurated on July 20, 2020, in Shizukuishi, Morioka. The rotating tourbillon and intermittent turning of the constant-force as well as the rhythmical 16th note ticking sound of the mechanisms can be thoroughly enjoyed.
As soon as the Coronavirus situation allows, the new studio looks forward to welcoming visitors. For information and reservations, please visit the site below. ▶️ https://gs-studio-shizukuishi.resv.jp/
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