Showing posts with label Jaquet Droz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jaquet Droz. Show all posts

Sunday, March 9, 2025

Jaquet Droz – AUTOMATA Charming Bird Titanium Peiece Unique

  

Jaquet DrozAUTOMATACharming Bird Titanium47 mm Titanium - Unique Piece 2025

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The world's first musical automaton created as a titanium wristwatch, the Charming Bird is back, 10 years after winning the Mechanical Exception category at the GPHG. The piece is almost 20% lighter and offers a profoundly disruptive reinterpretation of the musical automata pioneered by Jaquet Droz.

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The "Disruptive Legacy" philosophy of Jaquet Droz mainly finds its expression as original creations, however that is not its only inspiration. In 2025, 10 years after winning the "Mechanical Exception" category at the GPHG, the Charming Bird is being reinterpreted in a Grade 5 Titanium case. It is the world's first wristwatch with musical automaton to be made from this metal, which is as difficult to work as it is modern.

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  Rarely has the 'Disruptive Legacy' philosophy been interpreted so aptly. Here, this legacy is that of musical automata. A tradition which, at Jaquet Droz, will soon be three centuries old. Back then, the family workshop amazed courts around the world with its amazingly realistic singing birds, capable of whistling a melody in perfect tune. There are several examples still in perfect working order around the world.

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 However, since 1738, clockwork mechanisms have undergone not one, but many disruptions. The most important was miniaturisation. It enabled the workshop, still based in its La Chaux-de-Fonds stronghold, to move on from the music box and life-sized automaton to the wristwatch. The other revolution was in materials. Jaquet Droz has embraced this in all its dimensions: sapphire, silicon and plasma ceramic are the most recent examples. But titanium has always been resistant, both literally and figuratively.

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Reputed to be one of the most difficult metals to work with, and with an unfortunate propensity to set fire to the tools used to try and tame it, titanium has long resisted machining, finishing and decoration techniques. 

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It has also long resisted the attraction of collectors, who did not instantly appreciate its perceived value, technical prowess and immediate benefits. These include a well-proven resistance to impacts and scratches, as well as an incredible lightness on the wrist.

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This is what Jaquet Droz wanted to highlight in its new Charming Bird Titanium. The watch is 20% lighter, weighing 42 grams less on the wrist. The whistling bird is more ethereal than ever.

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In addition to this lightness, and despite the difficulty of machining titanium, Jaquet Droz has managed to preserve the distinctive geometry of its case. It has two unique features. First, a double sapphire crystal, which protects the movement on the dial side and, separately, protects the bird automaton at 6 o'clock. Then there's a narrow lateral opening, between 8 and 10 o'clock, which allows the air – and therefore the melody – to circulate from inside the case to the outside world. All with a satin-brushed finish executed to perfection.

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As for the movement, Jaquet Droz has retained the automaton which has been delighting the most discerning collectors for over a decade. It is fully visible through a metallic sapphire dial at 12 o'clock, which allows the hours and minutes to be read against a black background. 

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The bird, which measures 13.5 mm, sits proudly at 6 o'clock. Hand-engraved and hand-painted, it flies through an opening in the dial towards its owner. It whistles, opens its beak, spins around, and beats its wings and tail.

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The automaton has its own power reserve, wound by the crown at 2 o'clock. A simple press on its coaxial push-button triggers the sequence. It can be stopped when required by a second press. If the owner does not intervene, it can last for around thirty seconds, during which time the three notes of the bird's whistle can be clearly distinguished. 

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The speed of its movements and singing is not controlled mechanically, to avoid friction between metal parts that would inevitably cause wear, but magnetically. As there is no contact, there is also no noise interference, resulting in a purer melody. Made as a one-off piece, the Charming Bird Titanium is taking flight to new horizons.

Create your own. As unique as you are

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  AUTOMATA

 Reference: J0315380011 - Grade 5 Titanium

Piece Unique 1/1

DESCRIPTION
  • Hand-engraved and hand-painted white mother-of-pearl dial, black onyx center.
  • Titanium case and applied ring.
  • Hand-winding mechanical automaton movement with push-button triggering mechanism.
  • Hand-engraved singing bird. 
  • Sapphire whistle system.
  • Self-winding mechanical hours and minutes movement.
  • Power reserve of 38 hours.
  • Diameter 47 mm.
  • Peiece Unique.
AUTOMATON
Opening flower automaton movement. 24 jewels.
Grade 5 Titanium hand-engraved and hand-enameled. 
Automaton mechanism triggered directly by pressing a push-button at 2 o'clock.
MOVEMENT 
Calibre Jaquet Droz RMA615
Self-winding mechanical movement.
Silicon balance spring and pallet horns.
Platinum oscillating weight
INDICATIONS
Singing bird action 15 jewels Offcentered hours and minutes

JEWELLING
Caliber 29 jewels, automaton 15 jewels
POWER RESERVE  38 hours
FREQUENCY 21,600 v.p.h
CASE
Material: Grade 5 Titanium
Diameter: 47 mm
Height 1: 15.75 mm
Height 2: 22.85 mm
Engraved on the case-back - "Peiece Unique"
WATER RESISTANCE - No
DIAL
Sapphire crystal dial with platinum Roman numerals
HANDS
Blued stainless steel
STRAP
Rolled-edge hand-made black alligator leather strap with black alligator leather lining and black stitches
BUCKLE
Titanium prestige folding clasp

🔰 Limited Edition to Unique only ❱❱❱ 1 piece

🔴 Price: CHF 352'000 (incl. taxes)💰

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Press Release - 2025
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0) 32 924 28 82
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Tuesday, November 26, 2024

Jaquet Droz – AUTOMATA “La Ronde Des Baisers” Automaton Exclusive Edition

 

Jaquet DrozAUTOMATALa Ronde Des Baisers” Automaton Exclusive Edition Unique Piece 2024 

CHANTAL THOMASS & JAQUET DROZ: THE COLLABORATION

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Jaquet Droz is an almost 300-year-old start-up, founded in 1738 by a visionary: Pierre Jaquet Droz. For their time, the clocks, automata and humanoid automata from Pierre Jaquet Droz were a mechanical and cultural revolution. The family company was a pioneer of watch exporting with items in multiple royal and imperial courts across Europe and Asia.

 In 2000, Jaquet Droz was bought by the Swatch Group and incorporated into the prestige and luxury segment of the watchmaking group. Its acquisition by the Group has enabled the brand to enjoy the same heights of success as it did in the Age of Enlightenment, and to build on the exceptional heritage established by its founder.

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With the arrival in 2022 of the new CEO, Alain Delamuraz, the company has refocused on the disruptive character of the brand. Driven by its new strategy "JD 8.0: A Disruptive Legacy" and recognised worldwide for its Ateliers d'Art and automata, the company has enhanced its audacious vision of animated Haute Horlogerie, custom-designed and bringing together exceptional movements and next generation materials, prioritising a unique and personalised experience. Each piece is created by and for a specific collector. These exclusive, unique pieces are delivered in person during an unboxing ceremony in the presence of the CEO.

Classical historical themes are retained while the brand also opens itself up to a new visual approach – provocative, impertinent and audacious.

The 160 points of sale, multi-brand retailers and single-brand boutiques have been replaced by a single sales location at the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds thereby favouring direct contact between the artists, artisans and collectors. Jaquet Droz has become more agile and has capitalised on their Phygital presence. Studio 8 combines a physical and digital presence so that it is possible to remotely follow the work of the artists and artisans in real time thanks to six cameras. At each step of the process, collectors can virtually lean over the shoulder of the artisan to observe and influence their work. Stronger and more grounded in its identity, Jaquet Droz is venturing into unexpected territory and staying right where it has always been: disruptive and visionary.

Although we immediately associate Chantal Thomass with lingerie, during the 70s she was one of the major figures in the wave of French creators that included Kenzo, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana and Anne Marie Beretta. It was these eclectic creators with their distinctive styles who would go on to shape the woman of the 80s and 90s. Irreverent and eminently creative, this new guard spanned the generations and brought a new energy to Parisian fashion.

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Within this movement, Chantal Thomass defined the contours of a new kind of femininity; extravagant, free, sensual, full of humour, fantasy and with a suggestive wink. Her pioneering signature style dances the line between what is masculine/feminine, covered/uncovered, underneath/above, borrowing men’s fabrics and tailoring cuts with ease. 

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Hers is a unique fashion that emphasises the body and remodels it. Greta Garbo, Louise Brooks, Marlene Dietrich, Joséphine Baker are her heroines. Lace, bows, pink and black... her signature elements. 

 
Today, an artistic director who cannot resist involving herself in multiple industries, Chantal Thomass has made Pop Art her core ethos; she shows off her talent and draws from her imagination to clothe both mass market and niche objects in pink, in black and in white. And a little bit of red too: "red is very important. But only a touch, and it must be matt... much like my lipstick!"
 

 JAQUET DROZ & CHANTAL THOMASS: AN EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATION THAT REINVENTS FEMININE ELEGANCE AND CELEBRATES THE SUBLIME CRAFTSMANSHIP OF THE TWO BRANDS

"A collaboration is the pleasure of embracing a profession, plunging yourself into a technique, a special feature, a universe. It is a unique occasion to assimilate into an environment that is not your own and to get a feel for exceptional expertise.

It is also a journey to encounter a place, a history, the artisans... The
Jaquet Droz Manufacture was incredible beyond my expectations; I discovered a level of mastery and technical expertise that is so rarely attained, all put to the service of unique objects that are almost magical!

Jaquet Droz is a company that knows how to set itself apart, daring to defy what is expected and leave the beaten track to push the limits of watchmaking.

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To work with Jaquet Droz is to work with excellence sublimated by the soul and talent of the men and women – artisans without equal – these incredible "creators of marvels"!

This creative alchemy has given life to the "Ronde des Baisers" watch whose aura exudes both hypnotism and poetry: It is a rare object that celebrates all kisses – stolen, given, lost, hidden or kept in the heart!

It brings together everything that I love: a subtle game, between poetry and discipline, between romanticism and geometry, marked by a wave of "heart-lips" against the backdrop of an optical grid pattern. The colours that I cherish – black, white and of course, touches of pink and red – while diamonds set into a ribbon shape offer just a hint of delicate lace.

This "Ronde des Baisers" is a precious tourbillon, an intimate creation that reflects my own universe:

audacious, refined and resolutely "me"."

Chantal Thomass.

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The piece, unique and engraved with the written signature of the artist on its oscillating weight will be unveiled at the FAB Paris art fair (Fine Art La Biennale) at the Grand Palais on 22-27 November in the presence of Jaquet Droz and Chantal Thomass.

JAQUET DROZ AND CHANTAL THOMASS COMBINE DISRUPTIVE WATCHMAKING AND IRREVERENT POP ART FASHION

A free figure, explorer of avant-garde trends who breaks taboos and barriers in the name of an art that is in perpetual transformation: that which is true for Chantal Thomass is also true for Jaquet Droz. The watchmaker and fashion icon were destined to meet. The result of this union is a unique piece, an automaton set with diamonds and minerals that is a hypnotic manifestation of master craftsmanship and fashion.

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It would be quite something for a fashion designer to not keep up with fashion. And yet, in her career spanning 50 years, Chantal Thomass has actually always been one step ahead, creating a brand identity that even the general public can identify at a glance: black fringe, bold red lipstick ("matt red, always"), constant innovation of materials and shapes and the ability to adapt to multiple universes (design, perfume, décor, cosmetics, etc.) with an uncomplicated cool.

For Jaquet Droz and Chantal Thomass it was love at first sight. The connection between Paris and La Chaux-de-Fonds was instantaneous.With her mischievous eye for such things, the creator grasped all of the possibilities offered by Jaquet Droz automata and the richness that the master crafts could bring.

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Chantal Thomass is unique, and so is her automaton. Her commitment to the project was total. The creator visited the Jaquet Droz ateliers in person several times. Having never before considered a watch, she now wanted to know everything about it: history, heritage, movement, decoration, but also, she wanted to meet the craftsmen who breathe life into each unique piece from Jaquet Droz. In addition to two physical journeys to Switzerland, the Parisian stylist also regularly connected with the watchmakers via Studio 8. This online space which is equipped with 6 immersive cameras, allows the client to follow the development of their project, almost in real time. It was also via Studio 8 that Chantal Thomass defined, with rare precision, the specifications for her piece which would reflect her visual universe but also her rebellious spirit, identical to that of Jaquet Droz.

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Chantal Thomass  wanted  a  timepiece  that  was dominated by her colours: black, white, red. But the fashion icon knew that the graphic palette is one thing, the materials are another. To bring these tones to life, Chantal Thomass opted for different materials that would each bring texture and volume. On an onyx watch dial, a perspective image of a chequerboard is created from cubes of black onyx and Cacholong. This first is well known by Jaquet Droz, but the inclusion of Cacholong was a first. The marquetry work in stone is created with 34 individual parts. Each cube measures between 2.25 mm and 0.45 mm in height. They are machined and assembled individually, by hand, in 5 different heights in order to accentuate the 3D perspective of the chequerboard.

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Around this central design is a moving peripheral disc. Taking the shape of a spiral, it links a gloss black disc that coils around another disc which is hand set with 376 diamonds (for a total of 0.63 cts) in a snow-set design A single press of the push-button at 3 o'clock starts the movement: the exterior disc completes one revolution in 30 seconds, for a maximum of 4 minutes (8 revolutions), and can be started or stopped on request by pressing the same push-button. 

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The hypnotic movement of this automaton takes nothing away from the precision of the watch. the automaton part uses two barrels, the timekeeping part uses two additional independent barrels for 68 hours of power reserve.

And the finishing touch added by the artist: In order to break up a composition that plays with the effects of symmetry, Chantal Thomass has taken 11 of the red pairs of lips so dear to her and placed them across the dial. Ten are gold, hand-sculpted appliques that are placed on the moving peripheral (and therefore,

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 like the entirety of the disc, pass below the watch dial). The 11th is hand-painted, used as a signature for Chantal Thomass, placed below that of Jaquet Droz, set at midday and with two gold hands passing above.

"Create your own. As unique as you are"

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: AUTOMATA La Ronde Des Baisers” Automaton” Exclusive Edition

Unique piece 1/1

 Reference: J0328330241 

Case
Material: 18-carat red gold
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 16.96 mm
Pièce Unique” engraved on the back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Dial and hands
    Static dial: hand-painted black onyx hour/minute dial with 18-karat red gold applied ring, 18-karat red gold dial with black onyx and white cacholong semi-precious stone marquetry
    Animated dial: 18-karat white gold, snow-set with 💎376 diamonds, black onyx with painted 18-karat white gold appliques
Movement
 Caliber Jaquet Droz 2653 AT2
    Self-winding mechanical movement
    Silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges
    Hand-engraved 18-karat red gold oscillating weight. “Chantal Thomass
    Automaton with animated record and logo, hand-wound with crown push-button automaton triggering mechanism, double barrel.
    Number of jewels: 56
    Frequency: 28'800 vph (4 Hz)
    Power reserve of 68 hours

Functions/Indications     
Off-centered hours and minutes
Strap     
Fabric strap
Buckle   18-carat red gold folding clasp

🔰 Limited Edition  to Unique only ❱❱❱ 1 pieces

🔴 Price: CHF 438'000 (incl. taxes)💰

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Press Release - 2024
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0) 32 924 28 82
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www.Jaquet-Droz.com

Thursday, May 16, 2024

Jaquet Droz – GRANDE SECONDE Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire OPAL - Unique Piece

 

Jaquet DrozGRANDE SECONDE Tourbillon Skelet – Skull Sapphire OPAL Dial 42mm - Unique Piece 2024 

 TOURBILLON SKELET SAPPHIRE OPAL
ELEVATING SUGGESTION TO AN ART FORM

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Whether in literature or cinema, eroticism or emotions: what is suggested is always more powerful than what is revealed. Obvious is easy. The art of suggestion is something much more subtle. Herein lies the beauty of the Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire Opal.

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Draped in sapphire, beneath a veil of opal, the piece subtly allows some of its usually hidden mechanism to be glimpsed: its skeleton movement suspended in space, powered by a flying tourbillon with a power reserve of eight days. A unique, luminous piece made for an aesthete and collector.

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At Jaquet Droz, mineral dials are a highly prized form of master craftsmanship. Chosen for their properties, colours or symbolism, stones are only rarely esteemed for their transparency. However, it is the main attraction of opal. 

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Its name, from the Sanskrit word upala meaning "precious stone", is justly deserved. Its green and blue reflections are unique.

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Opal is one of the very rare stones to change its colour based on exposure to light. This phenomenon has its own name – iridescence – to describe this rare property of spontaneous chromatic variation.

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This property makes opal truly the centrepiece of the new Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire. Radiant and luminous, the creation is bathed in light thanks to a case made entirely from sapphire machined in the Swiss city of La Chaux-de-Fonds.

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Inside this showcase, light does not only strike the opal dial from above, as in a classic watch construction. Here, light is everywhere. It penetrates the piece from the back, front, and sides. It snakes through the movement.

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Wends its way between the bridges and gear train. It skims the tourbillon, caresses the hands, weaves around the gold oscillating weight, escaping again through the middle. Always present, never captured. The opal reveals its movement, echoing its path with shimmering reflections.

It is powered by a Swiss Made precision mechanism.

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With its signature Jaquet Droz figure-of-eight design, the movement features a skeleton flying tourbillon at 12 o'clock, counterbalanced by the hours and minutes at 6 o'clock. 

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The two are perfectly visible thanks to two openings in the opal, which is just 7/10th of a millimetre thick.

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For this unique piece, the movement has a power reserve of eight days, and features an anthracite gray coating. This is complemented by the white gold of the hands, crown, and signature Jaquet Droz screws (with star-shaped heads).

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The 42-mm case on a white rubber strap is perfect for any wrist, male or female. A unique piece, precise and precious, which combines the traditional tourbillon with a uniquely disruptive and unexpected play of light.

 Some watches tell time, some tell a story.”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  GRANDE SECONDE

Model: Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire OPAL Edition

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Reference: J0135270291 

Unique piece 1/1

Case
Material: Sapphire
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.76 mm
18-karat white gold crown and tube
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Dial and hands
Sapphire dial with a transparent opal base.
Indexes and dial fixing axes in 18-karat white gold
18k white gold hands
Movement
 Caliber Jaquet Droz 2625SQ
Self-winding skeleton tourbillon movement, black treatment
Silicon balance spring and pallet horns, titanium tourbillon frame, single barrel, 18-karat white gold oscillating weight
Jewelling     30 jewels
Power reserve     7 days
Frequency     21,600 v.p.h.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds Tourbillon
Indications     
Off-centered hours and minutes at 6 o'clock.
Tourbillon frame and off-centered seconds at 12 o’clock. 
Strap     
Rubber strap
Buckle   Stainless steel and plasma ceramic folding clasp

🔰 Limited Edition  to Unique only 1 pieces

🔴 Price: CHF 293'000 (incl. taxes)💰

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Press Release - 2024
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0) 32 924 28 82
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