MB&F – SPECIAL PROJECTS SP One 20th Anniversary 2025
AFTER 20 YEARS OF WILD CREATIVITY, WHAT IF MB&F
CREATED AN ELEGANT 38MM WATCH?
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The
MB&F SP One, initially dubbed “
Three Circles”, showcases a trinity
of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying
gravity on your wrist. These components appear to hover mysteriously at
the centre of an amphitheatre, all visible through invisible sapphire
domes, with the balance wheel performing a mid-air dance and the tilted
dial highlighting
MB&F’s clever conical gearing. The
SP One is a
mechanical marvel that turns your wrist into a stage for a captivating,
gravity-defying performance.
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Encased in a
38mm pebble-like shell, the
SP
One melds a smooth, tactile feel with a bezel-free design and
delicately detached lugs. As
MB&F’s slimmest and smallest watch, it
nonetheless remains true to the brand’s signature three-dimensional
architecture and boundary-pushing spirit. Somewhere between
MB&F’s
radical
Horological Machines and more classic
Legacy Machines, the
SP
One inaugurates a new, undefinable “
Special Projects” collection.
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To truly grasp the amphitheatre-like drama and unconventional flair of this project, let’s dig into its origin story.
PLUNGING THE HAND IN THE BASKET
When COVID hit, like many others,
MB&F thought it was the end. In this tumultuous time, the team
decided it was important to dive into a basket of fun, dormant projects
that had been on the back burner for years. The M.A.D.1 was one example
of these whimsical ventures: initially planned to be a playful
experiment to thank friends and family, it turned out to be the runaway
success we know today. The following years were tinged with more
success, marked by new releases, a collection of prestigious GPHG
awards… Times were great.
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But
as
MB&F owner and creative director
Maximilian Büsser says, success
can be toxic – leading to complacency, treating clients poorly, and
stifling innovation. Instead of succumbing to these pitfalls, the team
ramped up their creativity and plunged their hands deeper in the basket
of dormant projects.
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This
surprising turn of events underscored a timeless truth for the brand:
the unexpected can indeed work wonders. It was a bold reminder that the
best business plans are the ones you never planned at all. This embodies
the spirit of
MB&F, which according to any management book,
epitomizes doing everything wrong. No business plan, just a will to
create the unexpected, going against the grain and revelling in the
unconventional.
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The
basket brimming with special projects sketched over the years,
seemingly senseless at the time, was full of wild ideas, flashes of
intuition, and even sketches of skateboards and razors. It was a
treasure trove of creativity.
Max reached into the basket and picked out
one project that best embodied the spirit of these
special ventures.
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This project, simply code-named
Special Project One (SP One), was the chosen one.
NOTHING CLASSIC ABOUT A CLASSIC
"We asked ourselves: what if we did what no one expected – an elegant, classical watch?” remembers Max.
This was a risky move, much like the brand’s first Legacy Machine, or
the M.A.D.1, or many other MB&F projects: zero market expectations,
100% risks.
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“
As
creators, pride drives us. Pride doesn’t come from the easy path but
from risking it all and potentially facing a huge setback”. The
first sketch of the
SP One, dating back to
2018, proves this ethos. Like
all
MB&F projects, it started with a sketch – quickly or “
badly”
drawn, as Max likes to say – but the essence of the design and
specificity of the project were already there.
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Three circles resembling a
smiley face hinted at the playful yet intricate journey ahead. The
concept stemmed from this idea of a trinity: the barrel, the balance
wheel, and the dial suspended in the case itself levitating on the
wrist.
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Yet,
these early sketches were all about crafting a watch that whispered
sophistication instead of shouting for attention. It needed to be subtly
elegant, with a classic flair that set it apart from the usual
MB&F
boldness while keeping the brand’s roots alive. In other words, a
hard-to-reach equilibrium.
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This
initial sketch was then refined and reworked with the help of famous
watch designer and longtime
MB&F Friend
Eric Giroud. After numerous
iterations, the concept seemed just right: it was then time for the
engineers to take over, sketching and mapping the entire project with
precision, care and plenty of head-scratching.
LEVITATING IN A CIRCLE
Initially code-named “Three Circles,”
the SP One movement is crafted around the three key elements of any
mechanical watch: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial. Each
component isn’t just there for show; they’re meant to feel like they’re
floating in mid-air.
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Thanks
to the sapphire glass on both the front and back, these elements appear
to defy gravity. However, it’s the thoughtful architecture of the
movement that truly enhances this captivating levitation effect,
creating a striking visual experience. Embracing the “
less is more”
mantra, the bridges are almost like magic, practically invisible.
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Most
components are cleverly hidden beneath the three key elements, letting
their beauty take centre stage. The fewer bridges, screws, and wheels,
the better! In fact, trying to spot a screw from the front is like
searching for a needle in a haystack, amplifying that stunning
levitating effect.
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Visually,
the three elements have identical circumferences, adding complexity to
the movement’s design. The single-barrel architecture is elegantly
suspended, enhancing the levitation effect and presenting a genuine
challenge for the movement designers. The balance wheel oscillates at 2
o’clock and captivates the wearer eyes like a flying saucer.
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In
Max’s imaginative world, everything seems to float, and the dial
perfectly follows suit! Tilted just right to highlight
MB&F’s
expertise in conical gearing, this feature is a tricky feat to pull off
while keeping it reliable. Rarely seen in watchmaking, it adds a
wonderfully subtle three-dimensional flair that’s as intriguing as
discreet.
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This
technically complex to achieve architecture reveals a simple and
unique
structure that makes understanding how a mechanical watch functions
surprisingly straightforward.
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Surrounding
this movement is what
Max playfully dubs the “amphitheatre”: a
beautifully bevelled flange that channels the grandeur of Greco-Roman
theatres, spotlighting the stunning intricacies of the movement like a
gladiator in the arena.
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Flip
the
SP One over, and you’ll uncover the other side of its arena,
showcasing the meticulous hand finishing and overall attention to detail
typical of
MB&F – one of the rare watchmakers today perpetuating
traditional hand finishing and artisanal craftsmanship.
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The
MB&F touch is unmistakably present in the
SP One. Beyond the desire
to surprise and take risks, it’s the meticulous attention to the
movement that reveals the family ties. The complexity lies in
maintaining finesse and elegance while preserving classic codes.
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All
wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons, and the finish balance
is subtle between satin, polished, and microblasted surfaces.
A SATISFYING PEBBLE
Beyond the unconventional construction of the movement and
traditional hand-finishing, the pebble case design further sets the SP
One apart.
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Despite
being thin, this watch paradoxically boasts a three-dimensional
presence. Imagine holding a perfectly-smooth pebble, polished by years
in a riverbed: that’s the feel of the SP One.
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Its
38mm case, sleek like a
spaceship and bezel-free, features sapphire glass that seamlessly
blends front and back with the case.
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This design gives the watch a
captivating floating effect also emphasized by its cleverly crafted
lugs. A closer look reveals that they’re not directly attached to the
upper case; instead, they rise elegantly from the lower case, creating a
subtle yet distinct gap between each hand-polished lug and the upper
section.
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Overall,
the
SP One is as smooth to the touch as it looks, inviting you to run
your fingers over its curves. It’s like a tiny
UFO landed on your wrist,
blending unconventional design with an organic, tactile sensation.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
While
the
SP One is
MB&F’s thinnest watch, it’s not about competing for
the title of the slimmest watch in the world. Instead, it embodies a
harmonious balance in design and proportions, prioritizing elegance and
artistry over mere thinness to achieve true equilibrium.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The
term “
equilibrium” perfectly captures the essence of this
Special
Project. It breaks conventions while staying true to the brand’s core
identity and traditional craftsmanship, all while exploring new avenues.
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In essence, a classical
MB&F that has nothing classical about it.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model: SPECIAL PROJECT One Anniversary
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Platinum with a sky-blue bevelled flange
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Rose gold with an anthracite bevelled flange
CASE
Material: platinum 950 or 18K rose gold
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 12mm
Lug-to-lug: 41.9mm
Number of components: 19
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistant to 30m / 3ATM / 100 feet
ENGINE
Movement SP One movement developed in-house by MB&F, featuring signature balance wheel and inclined time dial.
Manual winding mainspring barrel
Superlative hand finishing; internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; hand-made engravings, anthracite bridges (ruthenium finish).
Black DLC inclined dial
Frequency: 2.5 Hz, 18'000 vph
Number of parts: 191
Number of jewels: 31
Power reserve of 72 hours
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes on inclined dial at 6 o’clock
STRAP & BUCKLE
Calfskin strap with white gold or rose gold pin buckle
Lug width: 18mm
🔴 Price: MSRP:
(Platinum) CHF 63'000 / EUR 69'000 / $82,000 (excl. taxes)
(Rose gold) CHF 58'000 / EUR 64'000 / $76,000 (excl. taxes)
🔰Edition No
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Press release - 2025
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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