Jaquet Droz – Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Tiger

Jaquet Droz – Les Ateliers D'art Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara TIGER Gold Limited Edition

PETITE HEURE MINUTE SMALTA CLARA: 

THE ART OF PLIQUE-À-JOUR ENAMEL 

BY JAQUET DROZ

From its first designs almost three centuries ago to its most recent developments, the legacy inherited from Pierre Jaquet-Droz has stayed true to the core values of the brand's founder: a pared-down aesthetic, audacity of style, and creativity in the mechanisms.

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And the Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara presented on the occasion of the brand’s 280th anniversary is no exception. The rightful inheritor of a legacy that dates back centuries, it nonetheless brings an original touch: the brand’s first use of plique-à-jour enamel, or “smalta clara” in Latin. While historically Jaquet Droz has been renowned for its mastery of Grand Feu enamel, plique-à-jour enamel is an even more demanding technique. First developed 1500 years ago, it requires a rare level of skill to prevent the enamel from cracking in the kiln. The risk of cracking becomes more pronounced with every firing of the piece.

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The composition is not formed of a single piece of enamel; rather it is made up of cells of different colors and shapes. These cells are separated by gold wire cloisons. With no metal backing, the composition is a standalone piece similar to a stained glass window. As such, the Petite Heure Smalta Clara has no case back. Light shines through the enamel, illuminating every color and hue.

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When the composition is bathed in light, the complete motif suddenly comes to life: a tiger, designed exclusively by Jaquet Droz for this piece. The creature is depicted in vivid, contemporary strokes, amplifying the tender quality of a feminine piece with a strong personality. Each dial features no less than seven colors to produce a most lifelike tiger. The powerful effect is heightened by a bezel set with 100 diamonds that illuminate the slightest details. Such a perfect rendering is possible only with the purity of the enamel used by Jaquet Droz, through which the light is fully diffused, unobstructed and undistorted. It takes the enamel artist four full days to produce a single dial.

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The Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara is one of the very few Jaquet Droz pieces to have an off-centered hour display at 2 o’clock. The dimensions of the dial are reduced to a minimum, leaving the tiger space to express itself to the fullest. The mother-of-pearl dial features two blued hands in true Fine Watchmaking tradition. The winding crown is also placed at 2 o’clock in such a way as to make the winding-shaft as discreet as possible through the enamel. With discretion in mind, Jaquet Droz borrowed the smallest mechanical movement in its collections from the Lady 8 Flower watch.

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The Petite Heure Smalta Clara is available in two versions. Each issued in Numerus Clausus limited series of 28 pieces, both versions measure 35 mm and are set with diamonds on the lugs and bezel. A white gold version features a tiger gleaming in hues of blue, while a red gold version depicts the creature in gold and brown tones.


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Both versions are paired with a hand-finished wraparound satin strap that is color-coordinated with the dial. Together these two pieces open a new chapter in the long tradition of the Ateliers d’Art at Jaquet Droz.

“Some watches tell time, some tell a story”

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Technical details

Collection: Les Ateliers D'art

Model: Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clar TIGER 

Ref. J005503500

• 18-carat red gold

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DESCRIPTION
"18-karat white gold dial with ""plique-à-jour"" Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial, 18-karat red gold applied ring.
18-karat red gold case set with 100 diamonds, total of 0.89 carat.
Self-winding mechanical movement.
Power reserve of 38 hours.
Diameter 35 mm.
Numerus Clausus of 28."

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Ref. J005504500

• 18-carat white gold ardillon

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DESCRIPTION
"18-karat white gold dial with ""plique-à-jour"" Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial, 18-karat white gold applied ring.
18-karat white gold case set with 100 diamonds, total of 0.89 carat.
Self-winding mechanical movement.
Power reserve of 38 hours.
Diameter 35 mm.
Numerus Clausus of 28."

MOVEMENT
Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, platinum oscillating weight with 18-karat red gold applique.
Individual limited edition serial number engraved on the oscillating weight
INDICATIONS: Off-centered hours and minutes
JEWELLING: 29 jewels
POWER RESERVE:38 hours
FREQUENCY: 21,600 v.p.h.
CASE
18-karat red gold case set with 100 diamonds (0.89 carat)
Diameter Ø 35 mm
Height 10.85 mm
WATER RESISTANCE: 3 bar (30 meters)
DIAL

• 18-karat white gold dial with "plique-à-jour" Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial
• 18-karat red gold applied ring
• 18-karat white gold dial with "plique-à-jour" Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial
• 18-karat white gold applied ring

HANDS

• 18-carat red gold 
• Blued steel

BRACELET

• Rolled-edge hand-made brown satin strap
• Rolled-edge hand-made dark blue satin strap

BUCKLE:  

• 18-carat red gold ardillon 
• 18-carat white gold ardillon

TOTAL CARAT WEIGHT / DIAMONDS
IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
Total number of diamonds: 100 diamonds
Total carat weight: 0.89 carat

Limited edition exclusive 28 pieces


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Press Release - 2018
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82
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Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Gold

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Gold 43mm

Baselworld 2018

MASTERPIECE WITH FLOATING TOURBILLON

Carl F. Bucherer once again impressively demonstrates its innovative capacity with the ntroduction­i­of the new Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral. The CFB T3000, a unique movement developed entirely in-house, is a world first that combines a peripheral automatic winding system and a ­peripherally mounted tourbillon that appears to float. The internationally successful ­Lucerne-based watch manufacturer is the pioneer of the peripheral automatic winding system that also provides the technological basis for the floating tourbillon. Further highlights are the stop-seconds function of the tourbillon and the fact that the movement is a COSC-certified chronometer.

Baselworld 2018. Following several years of development, the watch manufacturer located in the heart of Switzerland presents the new Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral; an elegant and exclusive timepiece that truly lives up to its name. The engineers and watchmakers of Carl F. Bucherer developed a completely new movement specifically for this timepiece.

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The CFB T3000 manufacture caliber draws power from its automatic winding system containing a peripheral rotor making the tourbillon feature very distinct. The watch’s ­precise function is ensured by a tourbillon, which is mounted peripherally and thus appears to float inside the watch. Both of these technical features are specialties of the family-owned watchmaker and give the new masterpiece its name: Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral.

Masterpiece of Micromechanics

More than 200 years ago, the development of the tourbillon provided an ingenious solution for a ­technical problem that had previously impacted the accuracy of a watch. Pocket watches of this era were usually nestled­ in the waistcoat pockets of their owners, which caused them to always be carried upright. The ­vertically rotating balance wheel was thus constantly exposed to the Earth’s gravitational pull, and even a minimal imbalance could sometimes lead to considerable inaccuracies in the pocket watch’s timekeeping­.­

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This positional error could only be compensated for if the entire oscillation system permanently and uniformly­ rotated around its own axis, changing the gravitational pull. It was therefore housed in a rotating cage and referred to as a tourbillon – a French word that translates as “whirlwind.” This delicate regulator continues to fascinate to this day with its micromechanical complexity and constructive brilliance. The ­tourbillon is deemed to be one of the most elaborate and prestigious complications offered in a watch, with only a few manufacturers having mastered its construction.

A Tourbillon with the Best View

For a tourbillon to rotate around its own axis, it must be mounted accordingly, which was first achieved with a ruby bearing in the watch’s main plate and another in the balance-wheel bridge. The so-called flying tour-billon represents a further development and is only mounted to the main plate. This means that observers can admire the tourbillon at work without any obstruction, but only from above. Carl F. Bucherer went one step further. The newly designed CFB T3000 caliber provides an unhindered view of the regulator both from above and below, making the tourbillon appear to float within the movement. The tourbillon cage is actually supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings, which ensure a stable connection, precise guidance, and smooth running, while at the same time remaining invisible to observers.

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Carl F. Bucherer also uses state-of-the-art technology for the escapement, which has a pallet and escape wheel made from silicon. Due to its low friction, this system can run without lubrication, which increases the power reserve to at least 65 hours, and cannot be negatively impacted by magnetic fields. This modern construction allows for a high level of accuracy and meets the requirements of the chronometer norm. This feature is just as distinct as the timepiece’s stop-seconds function, which enables the wearer to synchronize the watch with a standard time. The watch also features a tribute to Swiss watchmaking tradition in the form of the Geneva stripes on the movement’s bridge.

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This can be admired through the sapphire crystal in the case back that is not concealed by a conventional winding rotor thanks to the peripheral rotor that ­powers the watch and revolves around the movement. Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put the peripheral automatic winding system into series production in 2008. It is part of the first CFB A1000 manufacture movement as well as the CFB A2000, which was presented in 2016, and is now used in the new CFB T3000.

Refined Technology, Exquisitely Presented

Such a unique tourbillon deserves the full attention of its observers. Therefore, it was prominently placed at 12 o’clock, making it a real eye-catcher. The tourbillon cage, which rotates around its own axis once ev-ery minute, features a second hand that acts as a seconds display. With a diameter of 43 millimeters, the case made from 18-karat rose gold provides a harmonious and elegant setting for this new manufacture movement. Its classic round shape with a slight protuberance at the crown is a traditional and ­established feature of the Manero family.

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A convex silver-colored dial adds volume in the display with appliquéd gold­-­plated wedge-shaped indices and faceted gold-plated lancet-shaped hands. The sapphire crystal with anti-­reflective­coating­ on both sides beautifully accentuates the exquisite face of this watch. A hand-stitched brown ­alligator-leather strap ensures that the timepiece sits comfortably and securely on the wearer’s wrist.

Patents

Rotor patent: Automatic winding mechanism with peripherally suspended rotor ring that is mounted with three ceramic ball bearings on its inner circumference. The three ball bearings are mounted on springs and act as a shock absorber. In contrast to centrally mounted rotors, the peripheral rotor ensures an unhindered view of the movement and allows for the watch’s flat design.

   
Tourbillon patent: * Tourbillon with peripherally mounted rotating carriage. With the tourbillon of Carl F. Bucherer, the mounting of the carriage is ensured by three ceramic ball bearings, which support and guide the bearing wheel at its circumference. These can be adjusted by an eccentric mechanism in order to optimally set the clearance. In comparison to conventional tourbillons, this construction allows for a lower height and an unhindered view of the rotating carriage from both sides.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Facts & Figures  – MANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Rose Gold ( 43 mm )

Reference  00.10920.03.13.01

Movement:
Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber,
COSC-certified chronometer, diameter 36.5 mm,
movement height 4.60 mm, total height on tourbillon 6.66 mm,
32 jewels, power reserve of at least 65 hours
Functions:
Tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds, stop-seconds function
Dial:
Silver-colored with appliquéd rose-gold-plated indices
Case:
18 k rose gold
Diameter Ø43.1 mm, height 11.57 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides.
Sapphire-crystal case back with metallic coating.
Engraving on case back: “Manero – Chronometer”.
Water-resistant to 30 m (3 ATM)
Strap:
Hand-stitched dark brown Louisiana alligator leather.
Pin buckle in 18 k rose gold. 


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For further information please contact:
For further information, please contact:
Sonja Hagmann, Head of Communications
Tel. +41 ( 0 )41 369 74 50
E-mail : sonja.hagmann@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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