Thursday, June 2, 2022

ORIS – FULL STEEL Holstein Edition

 

ORISFULL STEEL Holstein Worldtimer Blue Calibre 690 Automatic Edition 2022

To mark their birthday on 1 June, Oris introduces the Hölstein Edition 2022, a watch that revives an icon, the Full Steel. It captures the spirit of the 1990s, and a groundbreaking mechanical movement – Oris Hölstein Edition 2022.

The path to Hölstein

Oris was founded in 1904 in the Swiss village of Hölstein, not far from Basel, but a long way from watchmaking’s traditional heartland. It’s still shaping who we are today.

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Whether we like it or not, we’re shaped by where we come from. The country and city, town or village where we’re born will always be part of us. Oris came into being on 1 June 1904 in the remote Swiss village of Hölstein. For exactly 118 years, this beautiful little place has been shaping us, guiding us, even.

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Oris Nature Waldenburg Valley Forest


How? To understand the impact Hölstein has on us today, we have to go back to our founding year. Oris was the vision of two brave, pioneering watchmakers from Le Locle, deep in the French-speaking heartland of Swiss watchmaking. Their concept was to embrace the industrial practices that by then were fuelling the mighty Swiss German-speaking city of Basel. By bringing their watchmaking skills and romantic sensibilities together with state-of-the-art, highly efficient manufacturing, they believed they would be able to deliver high-quality Swiss Made watches to the world citizens of the day.

This was an unconventional step. Oris, named after a nearby brook, had a path of its own. It would go its own way. 

“O ris, named after a  nearby brook, had  a path of its own. It  would go its own wa

There was more to it. Hölstein was surrounded by the Waldenburg Valley, a spectacularly beautiful area. Its people would come to work at Oris, and those who came from Basel and beyond would soon come to appreciate its power to inspire them.

Today, 118 years on, our founder’s vision remains; the valley continues to inspire us (and motivate our ambitious sustainability strategy); and our factory is still on the same site. All here in Hölstein. Our home. For the third year, we celebrate it with a limited edition watch for the global Oris community.

Full marks

The Hölstein Edition 2022 revives the Full Steel of the late 1990s, a landmark mechanical watch

The watch celebrating our 118th birthday is inspired by the Full Steel Worldtimer, a stainless steel sports watch introduced in 1998 that picked up on an extraordinary movement Oris had debuted a year before.

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01 690 7780 4085-Set – Hölstein Edition 2022

Known as the Worldtimer, Oris Calibre 690 was a world first. Using plus and minus buttons on the case flanks, it could adjust local time in one-hour jumps either forwards or backwards, with home time shown on a counter at 3 o’clock. Even more impressively, as the time moved past midnight in either direction, the date would change, too.

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The late 1990s was an exciting time for Oris. The company was resurgent after the trials of the Quartz Crisis, which put hundreds of Swiss watchmaking companies out of business in the 1970s and 1980s, and was innovating new mechanical functions with real-world applications. The Full Steel Worldtimer was a landmark not just for Oris, but for Swiss watchmaking.

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The Hölstein Edition 2022, limited to 250 pieces, is a faithful revival of this Oris icon. It has a 36.5mm stainless steel case, a three-link stainless steel bracelet and a blue dial with the famous red plus and minus symbols. And it’s powered by Oris Calibre 690.

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Oris Portrait Rolf Studer, Co-CEO, wears the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 with reference 01 400 7763 4135-07 8 24 09PEB

Spirit of the 1990s

Oris Co-CEO Rolf Studer talks about the Hölstein Edition 2022, and why the watch and the decade behind it inspire him

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Rolf, while we have you – it’s been a significant couple of years for watchmaking. How are things at Oris?

Last year was a very strong year for Oris as we built on our Calibre 400 Series story with some really strong new releases. Calibre 400 was created for today’s world citizen, and it’s working! 

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We also became climate neutral and released our first sustainability report, part of our ongoing Change for the Better mission. The last year also marked our debut at Watches and Wonders in Geneva.

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It was a huge success for us and our ‘piazza concept’, an open, inclusive, informal forum, gave us an opportunity to showcase our values on the international stage for the first time in three years. We believe our job is to cheer people up and it was great to see the sparkle in people’s eyes talking about Oris and mechanical watches. Thanks to everyone who came to visit us and share the joy.

So, the Hölstein Edition 2022. This is the third in the series. Remind us of the thinking behind these watches…

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The main thing is that they’re linked to our birthday – the company was founded on 1 June 1904. This place and this valley define who we are, so if you like they’re a gift to ourselves, but also to our community. Hölstein Editions always have a quirk, and they always tell our story. For example, they’re the only pieces that feature the Oris Bear. The Oris Bear is the medium of the Oris story. He’s a symbol of warmth, of joy and of going your own way.

How have previous Hölstein Editions been received by your customers?

In a short time, they’ve become a part of our yearly release plan and people now look forward to them. Honestly, it’s a challenge to find something that meets the criteria we set ourselves for the Hölstein Editions. They have to express our story and how we value our whole community. As before, this year’s is not only a boutique option – people all over the world can buy this watch through their official retailer, even though it’s basically a boutique edition. And they can choose their limited-edition number on our website. We try to give Oris enthusiasts an experience we would enjoy ourselves.

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Hölstein Edition 2022 visual 

Oris isn’t known for short-run editions. Why produce the Hölstein Editions in such low volumes, just 250 pieces?

It’s a good question, because we could sell more, and people will know that we talk a lot about being inclusive – so shouldn’t everyone have access to one of these watches? As I explained, they are available to anyone, albeit only 250 people. But then we also want to do a few really special things for the Oris community. You could say the Hölstein Editions give access to the heart of pure Oris.

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The Hölstein Edition 2022 takes a new direction. Why go back to the Full Steel?

I have to admit that some of it’s personal. The Full Steel Worldtimer was always one of my favourite watches, long before I worked at Oris, and I think it’s a much underrated design. I also love the movement – a watchmaking landmark. Until Calibre 110 in 2014, Calibre 690 was our most complicated movement, which is a special legacy. In the true Oris sense, it’s functional, useful, beautiful and only mechanical. And there’s something about the Full Steel that captures the experimental spirit of 1990s designs. 

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Oris - Aviation watches BC4 Flight Timer Automatic

 Think of the Lamborghini Diablo and it just makes you smile. The Full Steel is the same. And the 1990s was a much freer time than today. We weren’t so connected and we had much more reasonable expectations of each other, work and how we build societies. We’ve lost so much of that, and we wanted a watch that would embody these values – Oris values.

Is the Full Steel back for good?

It’s a single piece and the idea isn’t to bring it back. But never say never… 

The Oris Bear returns to the case back – what do your customers make of him?

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He’s a magnet for people – how can you not love the Oris Bear? He makes people smile, which is our customer purpose, and the perfect canvas for any kind of emotion. And there’s no status with a bear. Just warmth.

Oris has been in Hölstein since 1904. How does that inform your thinking as Co-CEO?

It creates a strong emotion for me. I’m always impressed upon and inspired by the rigour that my predecessors applied in managing Oris, keeping it alive through difficult times and always working for the brand and not for themselves. That’s a legacy I want to continue.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:
FULL STEEL

Model:   FULL STEEL Holstein Calibre 690

Based on the ‘Full Steel’ of the late 1990s and powered by Oris’s Calibre 690 Worldtimer, the 250-piece Hölstein Edition 2022 is a celebration of the rich history and joyful spirit that define Oris

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 Ref.: 01 690 7780 4085-Set  -

Movement
 Number Oris 690
 Dimensions Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
 Power-Reserve 38 hrs
Vibrations 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels 30

Functions
        Centre hands for hours and minutes with forward or backward one-hour setting device

  • Small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock
  • Home time hour and minute hands with day/night indicator at 3 o’clock
  • Instantaneous date
  • Date corrector
        fine timing device and stop-second Winding Automatic winding,
        bi-directionally rotating red rotor
    Power reserve 38 hours
Case
    Multi-piece stainless steel case
    Size: 36.50 mm (1.437 inches)
Dial
Dial: Blue
    Luminous material Indices, numbers and hands with Super-LumiNova®
    Top glass: Sapphire, flat, anti-reflective coating inside
    Case back: Stainless steel, screwed, special engravings
    Operating devices: Stainless steel screw-in security crown and pushers
    Water-resistance: 5 bar
Bracelet
    Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with folding clasp

 Limited edition 250 pieces,  each watch is delivered in a special wooden presentation box

⚠️ Warranty Extended to 2 years with MyOris sign-up. nd extend your warranty for free to 3-year years.

Retail
Availability June  2022

Swiss Retail price CHF 4’000
 
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Press Release - 2022
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 www.facebook.com - ORIS
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www.Oris.ch

GoS watch – Northern lights for Ukraine Edition

 

GoS watchNorthern lights for Ukraine – Artpiece Unique Edition 2022

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GoS Norrsken UA 1/1

The watch community quickly came together to arrange support for Ukraine in various ways and a blue-yellow Rolex work of art by the watch connoisseur and editor Balazs Ferenczi was an early and elegant example. 

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The Northern lights for Ukraine project started in the first days of March 2022 after a discussion between Patrik Sjögren from GoS and the artist Sunflowerman (Matthew Miller).

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The GoS Norrsken northern lights watch was selected as a basis for the project with the blue and yellow dial created by Balazs as the main inspiration. Matthew immediately began the demanding procedure of replicating the watch design by hand while Patrik worked out a method to create a two-tone guilloche dial.  

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Sunflowerman with his interpretation of Northern lights for Ukrain

Patrik selected a special dial for the project - a guilloche dial that has been through a lot in the GoS workshop, with microscopic battle-scars as evidence. After many attempts, he was finally able to apply the northern-light blue tone with a clean and horizontal line across the irregular guilloche pattern. 

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The yellow tone was then created by gold plating the other half of the dial. Mathew finished the art-piece with his trademark Sunflowerman color-wash technique in the colors of the Ukranian flag. 

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The art-piece and watch were both finalized just three weeks after the project was started thanks to hard work and support by movement manufacturer Schwarz Etienne who provided the movement with its special engraving.

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The set will be auctioned as a combined lot during Sotheby´s Important Watches: Part II” with bidding opening on April 27th in Geneva.

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We hope that the lot that we named Northern lights for Ukraine will generate great interest and a good result as all proceeds will be provided to Red Cross Ukraine.
 
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About GoS

GoS Watches, is based in Sweden and was founded by bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren back in 2007. The firm celebrates its Scandinavian origins, taking inspiration from local nature and the history of the region.

The in-house expertise in patternwelded steel, also known as Damascus steel, combined with Sjögren’s skills at ‘the bench’ has attracted admirers from around the globe, especially from horophiles with a predilection for independent watchmaking.

The brand has established itself as the "King of damascus steel in Horology" while also incorporating other traditional and artistic handcraft info the time pieces. Northern lights has been a reoccurring source of inspiration for GoS and was re-interpreted during 2020 to be introduced with the Norrsken model in March 2021. This timepiece captures the appearance of swirling lights dancing across northern skies to emulate this natural phenomenon. The watch draws upon the expertise of various artisans and features a hand-cut guilloché dial and a micro-rotor movement. A handblown index ring, formed of Swedish crystal, allows an extraordinary degree of luminescence to pass through its clear surface, flooding the dial with vivid bright blue tones.

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About Sunflowerman

Sunflowerman is a renowned fashion artist and has fashioned an identity all his own. After growing up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, he lived in London, Milan, Paris, and New York, inspiring him to revive the lost art of men’s fashion illustration in a signature style. Sunflowerman works with clients around the globe creating unique content for brands and illustrating personalized portraits for businesses and individuals.

In 2014, he initiated a project where he would illustrate one watch submitted to him through social media and then show it to the world. The results were compelling and the watch community was excited to see what watch he would depict each day. Sunflowerman has since then released a book showing the product of this work and continues to have a high demand of watch illustrations from watch connoisseurs while working in Sundance Square, the heart of Fort Worth, TX.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  Norrsken UA 1/1

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Handmade in Sweden with a Swiss made movement

 
Functions
     Hours, Minutes Seconds
     Small second at 6h:00 in the shape of the GoS triskele
 Movement
     ASE200 movement by Schwarz Etienne with GoS micro-rotor in handfinished damascus steel and heat blued to match the the dial.
     GoS triskele and "Slava Ukraini" in four languages engraved on click wheel
     21,600 vibrations/hour
     86 h power reserve
     Stop-seconds mechanism
     33 jewels – 199 parts
     30.40mm x 5.25mm
 Case
     41.5mm x 12.1mm (8mm at edge)
     Stainless steel with Stainless damascus steel bezel
     Sapphire crystals front and caseback – Front crystal domed with double sided anti-reflective coating
     Transparent crystal gaskets in new Swiss-developed material
     5ATM water resistance (50m)
     Crown with double gaskets and GoS internal impact protection
 Dial
     Silver dial with handcut guilloché by master Jochen Benzinger - machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren
     Hour index recesses filled with midnight blue Badgerite, developed by James Thompson and Swiss SuperLuminova
     Transparent index ring in Swedish Crystal - individually handmade by master glass artisan Mikael Kenlind
    Solid ring of Badgerite applied round the Crystal index ring.
Hands
    GoS viking spearhead – Rhodium plated
    GoS triskele small seconds hand
Strap
    Polished Salmon leather – blue/black – Made in Stockholm, Sweden
    Tapered 21mm to 20mm with rounded padding
    Pin buckle in stainless damascus steel with GoS triskele logo

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Presentation box

     Individually handcrafted presentation box in Swedish crystal, handmade by glass artisan Mikael Kenlind
     Handcrafted wooden box with vertical opening to protect and showcase the inner presentation box in Swedish crystal

🔰Limited Edition - Exclusively one Unique piece  

Availability: One of a kind set and sold for CHF 15,120.00 sold at Sotheby's April 27th.

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Patrik Sjögren
+46 (0) 737 266211

Email: patrik.sjogren@goswatches.com
Org: 556871-5865
VAT: SE556871586501
Bankgiro (SE): 616-1798
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Gustafsson & Sjögren
Kindagatan 60
58247 Linköping
Sweden
Email: info@goswatches.com

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www.GoSwatches.com