U-Boat - U-51 Chimera Bronze

U-BOAT - U-51 Chimera Bronze Limited Edition NEW


Each object hides behind a memory of a story. The same goes for some of the most important fashion houses often hidden and unknown to the most interesting stories. Take the Italian brand U-BOAT. 
 In 1942 the Italian government had commissioned the production of watches for naval aviation pilots. 
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The Tuscan Ilvo Fontana had made for this project, but does not go well. Italo Fontana, nephew Ilvo, as a young man kept records of his grandfather on the plan for the implementation of these specific watches and so fascinated by the sketches of the ancestor, since 2000, for seven years he has patiently worked to redefine the concept of thus the brand watches U-BOAT.

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Today, the state of the art of brand new models are the U-51 Bronze Chimera and "B and B", presented at Baselworld 2012 and inspired by the concept of "Authentic Vintage". Fountain fact choose not to create faithful imitation, new productions of watches that show the mind to the past, but sees something different, a wristwatch from the past, used, lived and live, with all the imperfections caused by time.

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As U-51 Chimera, and Bronze "B and B ', an all-bronze, the other with steel detailing, darkened by a special treatment, and both with the case originally designed for the limited edition of 2010, U- 51 Rattrapante.

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For these limited editions of 300 pieces each, the bronze was treated with acids and has not received any special rhodium, in order to maintain the look of raw metal and alterable. The hands were painted, only to be stripped, and scratched on purpose. 

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 Finally, a series of straps, as the end of Italian manufacture, has been patiently and manually molded and sewn by artisans in Tuscany, famous throughout the world for their mastery in work and tanned skin.
www.luxrevolution.com 

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Technical features:

Movement: 

Automatic, Caliber ETA 7750, 28,800 alt / h,  
25 jewels, oscillating weight in silver, up 44 h.
Functions: 
Chronograph, 30 min and 12h counter, date, small seconds, hours, minutes.
Case:  
Bronze naturally aged, crown and shield in left-bottom bezel and enclosed by an outer tube with customized key, chronograph push buttons located on the case middle left, sapphire back, sealing 100 m, diameter 54.5mm.
Dial:  
Brown, 2 spheres superimposed, the upper and hours counters with laser-cut to see the lower sphere made ​​of bronze glass, laser-cut hands, date at 9 o'clock, small seconds at 3 o'clock.
Strap:
 Leather.
Versions:  
Limited Edition 300 piece (s) version in black PVD steel 

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Bronze Limited to 300 pieces.

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www.facebook.com - UBOAT.UK

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www.UboatWatch.it
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Habring - Doppel 2.0 Doppelchronograph

Habring - Doppel 2.0 Doppelchronograph NEW 

Twenty years ago, Richard Habring created the world's first affordable split-seconds chronograph in the IWC Doppelchronograph.  He did it with a bit of genius engineering that turned the ubiquitons Valjoux 7750 into a very special watch.  But, in the past twenty years, a lot has changed - like for example, Richard

Habring left IWC to start Habring² with his wife Maria, and just last month, the 20 year patent on the doppelchronograph that Habring designed for IWC expired.  What does that mean? It means that Richard Habring can make an updated watch of the doppelchronograph under his own name, and that is exactly what you see above.  Click through for a detailed look at the Doppelchronograph and the new Doppel 2.0 - with technical thoughts from Richard Habring himself.
 
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With IWC’s patent on Richard Habring’s own invention finally ineffectual, Habring² is releasing its own fresh take on the Doppelchronograph. The watch actually improves upon the original version. How is this possible? To understand this, let’s take a look at how the Doppel works.
The integration of the split function inside the Valjoux 7750 was not easy due to the fact that the movement comes pre-built with automatic winding which denies access to the central chronograph seconds wheel. Habring’s solution was simple and effective. As he explains, “we got a hamburger, took off the upper bun, laid a slice of cheese inside and closed it again.”
Of course this analogy is an oversimplification, since the new split-seconds mechanism contains levers, springs, a cam and a pincer. Actually the cam-layout was what deserved the patent since previously, split second mechanisms were operated by a separate column wheel. Maria Habring explains: “The column wheel looks nice – no doubt about that – but technically it represents watchmaking technology of the 19^th century. It’s difficult to produce and quite expensive as well when adjusting the movement and all its functions. Column wheel operated splits if not adjusted perfectly can be misoperated if the pusher does not get pushed in fully. Before shifting, the pincer may open or close already, the column wheel may be stuck intermediately for example.”

The cam-operated split mechanism does not have these problems at all. Richard Habring adds that, “finally the 7750-based chrono is a cam-operated modern design. Adding a column wheel disrespects Edmond Capt’s (Ed: father of the Valjoux 7750) genius take on this design!”
Probably the most difficult detail in the original IWC Doppelchronograph was the redesign of the split shaft. In order to allow the 10.5mm-long split axle to go through the central chrono seconds axle, it had to be enlarged in diameter and drilled through. The final version has a diameter of 0.5mm and a length of about 9mm and features a hole of 0.34mm. Drilling such a hole with conventional methods is almost impossible so the first prototypes made use of parts from syringe needles.

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The Habring² Doppel 2.0 is a logical next generation double chronograph. Even aesthetically, the watch is a departure from the first version. It does away with the traditional tri-compax layout so familiar to Valjoux-based chronographs, instead opting for a simpler, more classic dual-register dial, with running seconds on the left and elapsed minutes on the right and overlaid center seconds hands. The distinctive third chronograph pusher at 10:00 is the giveaway that this is a double chronograph. The dial can be had in galvanized blue, brown or slate gray and has radial minute markers and an outer demarcated second’s track. The overall effect is a blend of modern and classic, a stark contrast to the more sober IWC Doppelchronographs, which are clearly designed to be tool watches. While the original Doppel found its roots in aviation where the use of a split-function is not that important, the Habring²-Doppel is reminiscent to the time when sports timekeeping was done with mechanical stopwatches.

The Habring² calibre A08MR, while still based on a Valjoux 7750 introduces several key improvements over Habring’s first, twenty-year old, iteration.  Aside from the dial layout, the main differences are inside the split-seconds function. While the original Doppel movement was – due to the necessary integration of the split module inside the existing movement – rather complex, the second generation has a simplified bridge-layout which improves accessibility for service purposes.

 The Habring2 calibre A08MR 

Habring² is based in Völkermarkt, Austria and produces only about 80 watches annually. As a humble husband and wife team, the Habrings like to consider their company the “smallest watch manufacture in the world.” While not a true manufacture that builds everything from blued screws to balance spring yet, Habring² cares more about building a small number of unique and reliable watches. The timepieces have been largely based on ETA calibers up to now, but this will change in the next year due, of course, to the Swatch Group’s strategic decision not to provide base movements to other companies. To keep things simple, most Habring² watches are housed in 42mm cases made by renowned German case maker, Fricker, though a few models and are now available in a smaller 36mm-case.
With such limited production of its watches, you can be assured if you own a Habring² you’re not likely to see one on anyone else’s wrist and that’s part of the appeal. We’re excited about the Doppel 2.0 because it is yet another significant milestone from a company whose watchmaker is the father of the modern double chronograph.

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 www.Habring.com