Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

















Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

It is not the first time Parmigiani Fleurier has combined a large date with a minute repeater. However, no watchmaker has ever before offered instantaneous rotation of such a colossal date. The Toric Résonance 3 is in this sense, a world-first.

AN INSTANTANEOUS OUT-SIZED DATE

Consider the following: if the Toric Résonance 3 had featured a continuous date change occurring within a few hours in a smooth and uniform motion, the mechanical challenge would be moderate. But because we’re talking about an instantaneous date jump occurring in 1/100th of a second, so fast in fact, that its transition is invisible to the eye, this timepiece is a true mechanical feat.
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Despite being cut to an incredible fineness, the out-sized date discs have an immense inertia. This means they require huge amounts of energy to launch in rotation and even more to stop them dead following the instantaneous jump, without them rebounding under the effect of the forces exerted. It’s much like launching a huge truck at 100 km/h in a split second and then having to stop it within a meter.

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Hence every night at midnight, the Toric's white gold case plays host to this extraordinary mechanical feat based on a double cam system. The first cam accumulates energy through continuous friction over the course of 24 hours.

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This arms the large lever continuously, releasing it at midnight precisely onto a 31-tooth wheel. The second cam plays the crucial role of a brake, by controlling a spring-mounted lever. This device keeps the large date discs permanently immobile, releasing them for just a fraction of a second every 24 hours at midnight to allow the instantaneous jump.


A MINUTE REPEATER WITH CATHEDRAL CHIME

Activated by a trigger to the left of the case, the minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes with a vibrant melody. A minute repeater qualifies for “cathedral chime” when its gongs cover at least 1,5 times the perimeter of the case. The Toric Résonance 3 goes a step beyond this requirement with beautiful snake-shaped gongs that circle twice around the borders of the movement.

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It’s very challenging to accommodate within the small and intricate space of an Haute Horlogerie watch case, but the sound of the chime is considerably richer and more beautiful which makes the true value of a minute repeater at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case in white gold – the perfect material to enhance the sound’s resonance – puts the finishing touch to the beautiful melody.

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The Toric Résonance 3 is a quest to the extreme.  It’s about maximising the size of a date until the very limits of mechanical constraints; creating a harmonious melody until the entire physical space has been consumed; finishing each component with absolute care and hours of devotion, even when they are hidden from
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Technical details

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre: PF359
Winding : Manual
Power reserve : 48 hours
Dimensions : 15''' - Ø 33.80 mm
Thickness : 8.89 mm
Frequency : 2.5 Hz - 18.000 A/h
Jewels : 33
Barrel(s) : 1
Components : 459
Decoration : Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Hours, Minutes
Minute repeater
Instantaneous big date accumulator
CASE 
Shape : 3-part round case
Dimensions : Ø 45 mm
Thickness : 14.1
Material : White gold 18 ct
Finishing : Polished
Water resistance : 10 m
Glass : Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown : Ø 7 mm
Back : Sapphire
Back engraving : "MODELE UNIQUE" and individual number
DIAL 
Finishing : Blasted opaline outer, guilloche and hand-engraved centre
Colour : Silver
Index : Black lacquered appliques
Hands : Delta-shaped, lacquered
BRACELET
Material : Alligator
Colour : Black
Brand : Hermès
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillon



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DuBois et Fils – DBF-CAL-100 movement automatic












DUBOIS et FilsDBF-CAL-100 movement automatic NEW

MOVEMENT DBF-CAL-100 BY DUBOIS ET FILS  

Switzerland's oldest maker of watches presents for the first time its own in-house mechanism
   

Le Locle, 12 February 2014 – After more than 228 years, DuBois et fils presents the first in-house mechanism in its history. The new DBF-CAL-100 automatic movement was created based on a Revue Thommen Caliber. The original parts were partially replaced, revised, ennobled and minor technical improvements were carried out on the mechanism. Thomas Steinemann, CEO of DuBois et fils, says that an existing mechanism was very consciously used as the basis for the development of the in-house movement. "This allows us to know exactly what we're getting into. But above all, our analyses have shown the considerable potential which this mechanism still has." With greatly skilled workmanship, an in-house mechanism has been created that is no longer comparable to its predecessor. The interplay of the prevailing anthracite colour with the ennobled parts gives the mechanism its distinctive character.

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The DBF-CAL-100 is the heart of the DBF003 collection – a 3-hand self-winding watch – which will likely be available starting May 2014. With the production of this in-house mechanism, the traditional Swiss company has realised a long-held dream. According to Thomas Steinemann, further development of the DBF-CAL-100 is already taking place. Additional technical improvements, such as an increase of the power reserve, are already underway. The numerous development possibilities, which the mechanism offers, shall in the future be designed and realised in their own small watch workshop. This will clearly make the limited DuBois et fils watch models into one of a kind jewellery pieces. 

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Technical specifications:

Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 ½)
Height: 5.90 mm
Individual parts: 149
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 19,800 A/h
Tolerance: -0 / +10 seconds per day    

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