DANIEL ROTH – Tourbillon Platinum Edition

 

Daniel Roth – Tourbillon Platinum Edition 2025

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The name Daniel Roth is synonymous with traditional watchmaking and discreet excellence. The second golden age of this storied brand continues with the Tourbillon Platinum, the latest expression of the brand's mantra: La Montre Objet d'Art.

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Directly inspired by the iconic Tourbillon reference 2187/C187 of 1988, the Tourbillon Platinum is a tribute to Daniel Roth's favorite complication and dedication to the timeless ideals of haute horlogerie.

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The revival of Daniel Roth began in 2023, starting with Mr. Roth's favored complications, the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat. Both models debuted with a 20-piece souscription series in yellow gold dressed in Clou de Paris guilloché, followed by regular production models in rose gold with pinstripe guilloché.

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Both the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat share the same design codes and horological principles, with the slightly refined double-ellipse case design and in-house manufacture calibres. The DR001 found in the Tourbillon and the DR002 that powers the Extra Plat are shape movements finished to the highest standards, developed exclusively for Daniel Roth by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers and the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

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Continuing the heritage established by the pair in gold, the Tourbillon Platinum elevates the collection with a more contemporary aesthetic that opens a new chapter for Daniel Roth.

Elevating an icon

Throughout history, watchmakers have often used platinum to dignify their most exceptional creations. Used selectively during the first golden age of the brand, platinum has, until now, been absent from the latest chapter in the history of Daniel Roth. The Tourbillon Platinum heralds the return of this noble metal, beloved by collectors for its extraordinary heft and rarity.

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Beyond its exceptional rarity, platinum is harder to work with than gold. Specifically, the process for machining platinum components requires special tooling and more frequent intervention by the machinist. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to make as a case in 18k gold.

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    “Platinum is a heavyweight material in every sense. For decades, platinum has instilled both love and fear in the hearts of watchmakers,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “It is often reserved for special creations, in part because it is so much more difficult to work with than gold.”

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    “Naturally, the esteemed reputation of platinum makes it irresistible to a brand like Daniel Roth,” continues Matthieu Hegi. “When it came time to animate the Tourbillon in a white metal, one thing was certain; it had to be platinum.”

True to the design and spirit of the C187, the Tourbillon Platinum adopts the double-ellipse shape, a foundational element of the Daniel Roth aesthetic. Originally conceived by Mr. Roth himself in 1988, the unusual shape, combining both square and circular elements, is the ideal showcase for the large tourbillon. Innovative at launch, the double-ellipse has stood the test of time and is one of just a handful of contemporary case designs that have achieved iconic status. 

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All of the critical details of the original double-ellipse case have been faithfully recreated, and this historical fidelity is more than skin deep. In a nod to the 1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand's three arms passes through a discrete channel on the inside of the case; a private detail that provides continuity from past to present.

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But the Tourbillon Platinum's double-ellipse case is more than just a carbon copy of the original. For the revival of Daniel Roth, the signature case enjoys subtle refinements, while being largely indistinguishable from the original. The lugs, still meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve ergonomics on the wrist. A living tribute to the pioneering spirit that guides Daniel Roth, the case profile of the Tourbillon Platinum is slightly slimmer than that of the original C187, thanks to the in-house manufacture calibre DR001.

An emblematic palette

The dial of the Tourbillon Platinum is similarly precious, made of solid white gold and finished in an anthracite hue. This material provides the ultimate canvas for Daniel Roth's linear guilloche, painstakingly applied by hand using a straight-line engine.

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Eminently traditional in every respect, the chapter ring for the hours and minutes is crafted from 925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned seconds scale and the iconic 'moustache' on either side that bear the Daniel Roth brand name and individual watch number.

Each one of these elements is crafted separately, their borders fluted with filet sauté guillochage using a traditional hand-operated rose engine. The serpentine form of the 'moustache' proved particularly challenging for the guillocheurs, and required the development of a bespoke tool fitted to the rose engine.

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All components of the dial have been produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now has a fully-equipped guillochage workshop with antique engine-turning machines that have been entirely restored to perfect functionality.

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These time-honored techniques put a natural limit on production. A single dial for the Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete, line by line by a single Maître Guillocheur, with the smallest mistake at any point along the way requiring the dial to be discarded.

The tourbillon calibre DR001: the beating heart of Daniel Roth

The modern-day renaissance of Daniel Roth began in 2023 with the introduction of the DR001, a new shape movement developed specifically for the brand's signature double-ellipse case.

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The tourbillon carries special significance for Daniel Roth. It was none other than Mr. Roth himself, during his time at Breguet, who created the brand's first-ever tourbillon wristwatch. Mr. Roth returned to the tourbillon for the launch of his own brand, being among the first independent watchmakers to accomplish such a feat.

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In keeping with the philosophy of Daniel Roth, each of the DR001's 206 components are finished by hand; even the parts hidden beneath the dial are decorated as if on display. Though these components remain unseen outside the manufacture, the expert craftsmanship reveals itself to the connoisseur's discerning touch during winding and setting.

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    “As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high. Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance, and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand's second act,” says Michel Navas.

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    “Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself, so it was important to both of us to respect the brand's original emphasis on both architecture and finissage,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn't be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to remain true to the brand's history while elevating the subtle details.”

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Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid case back, the DR001 movement inside the Tourbillon Platinum can be admired through a sapphire crystal. This window into the heart of the Tourbillon Platinum reveals all the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, including black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and particularly thin Côtes de Genève that echoes the guillochage en ligne dial.

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The DR001 is further elevated by the presence of three polished gold chatons that secure the jewels in the gear train. Aficionados of fine watchmaking will appreciate that while some of these magnificent details are put on display, others remain hidden, waiting to be discovered by future generations of watchmakers. 

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The technical characteristics of the DR001 demonstrate the manufacture's savoir-faire, and represent an improvement over the original in several respects. The power reserve has been increased to 80 hours, while at the same time the movement's thickness has been reduced to provide a more elegant fit on the wrist.

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The Tourbillon Platinum completes the Daniel Roth tourbillon collection with a very exclusive edition that introduces a contrasting anthracite grey dial. The commanding presence of the platinum case is yet another bridge to the brand's early history, while the refined double-ellipse case represents a vision for the future.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Tourbillon Platinum Edition

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  Reference  DAAG01A1  

Case
Material  Platinum
Dimensions  38,6 x 35,5mm
Thickness  9,2mm
Water resistance  30m
Dial 
    Dial: White gold base with Pinstripes guilloché
White gold base with anthracite finish and pinstripe hand-guilloché pattern
Applied sterling silver hours and minutes disc, triple seconds track and "moustache" with fluted hand-guilloché borders 
Black Roman hour numerals and hands, black Arabic numerals on triple 20-second tracks 
Three black hands to indicate the seconds on the 1-minute tourbillon 
    Sterling silver 925 minute track
    Black decalque font
    Hands: Stainless steel black coating
Movement
Manufacture manual winding movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton 
Calibre DR001:
    Complication  Tourbillon 1-minute
    Power reserve 80 hrs
    Frequency  - 3 hZ (21,600 vph)
    Dimensions  31 x 28mm
    Thickness  4,6mm
    Components - 206
    Jewels - 19
Strap
Brown calfskin leather     
Lug width - 20mm 

 
🔰Limited Edition ✅ Only 20 Pieces 
🔴 Price 185,000 CHF / € 190.450 (Excl. Taxes) 💰

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Press Release - 2025
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