Tuesday, April 30, 2024

U-BOAT – 9600 DARKMOON 44,8 mm UNICO

 
U-BOAT9600 DARKMOON Vintage UNICO 44MM Bronze PVD Steel - 2024

UNIQUE BY NAME, UNIQUE BY DNA!

The Darkmoon collection by U-BOAT is enriched with a new specimen that has made its uniqueness its own name. A watch that seems to emerge from the depths of the sea, from unexplored abysses, from places forgotten over time.

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Always fascinated by vintage objects, with a story to tell and shaped by time, Italo Fontana, designer of U-BOAT, decides to apply this passion of his to the Darkmoon collection, creating a one-of-a-kind 44mm watch: Unico!

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A bridge between the past and the future, a numbered edition watch that plays with modernity and the stylistic elements of the past. A highly individual creation, a testament to craftsmanship and "handmade," since each piece will always be different from the others.

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Characterized by a bronze PVD steel case, Unico has received a special manual treatment with various overlapped acids, in order to create an oxidized and antiqued effect that also involved the dial under the high-quality anti-reflective domed sapphire glass.

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The case is then completely filled with an oil bath, according to the innovative Oil Immersion concept, combined with the compensating bubble and the also domed dial, with black numbers and indices, amplifying the three-dimensional visual effect on the latter and the imperfections, always different, given by oxidation and which make each watch "one of a kind."

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On the back of the case, the innovative locking system (Locking Ring System) allows for the rapid replacement of the battery of the Swiss movement Ronda 712.3, lubricated in an oil bath, and a QR code that allows the user to access an exclusive digital experience in the U-BOAT universe.

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Waterproof up to a depth of 50 meters, Unico completes its vintage look with a cognac-colored strap, handcrafted in Tuscany by expert artisans, in aged leather with natural processes and with a buckle, in harmony with the case, in steel with aged bronze PVD treatment.

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 Model:  9600 DARKMOON Vintage 44MM

Unique by Name, Unique by DNA! The numbered edition Darkmoon watch, “Unico”, skillfully blends modernity with past styles.
Highly individual creation and pride of craftsmanship and 'hand-made' work, each Unico possesses its own identity thanks to treatment with carefully selected oxidizing acids.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

  • Ref: 9600 DARKMOON 44 UNICO 
MOVEMENT
Swiss precision quartz movement Ronda 712.3, lubricated in oil bath.
Diameter Total  26.00 mm  / 11½'''
Height  2.50 mm
Instantaneous rate     -10/ +20 sec/month
Battery voltage     1.5 V
2 hands

FUNCTIONS
hours, minutes, screw-down crown.
CASE
Made of AISI 316L steel with aged bronze PVD treatment, completely filled with a special oil that enhances the dial, creating the illusion of absence of glass, with a more intense color effect and greater readability.
Visible air bubble on the dial to compensate for temperature variations.
Distinctive crown protector on the left. 44,80 mm diameter.
CASEBACK
Innovative locking system (Locking Ring System) with quick battery replacement. 
Laser-engraved serial number and QR code. 
Scanning the QR code grants access to an exclusive digital experience.
DIAL
Domed, painted metal with aged finish. Indexes and numbers treated with black superluminova. 
Hands painted metal with black superluminova.
WATER RESISTANCE: 50 mt, 5 ATM.
STRAP
laser-cut aged leather with natural process, cognac color.
Handmade in Tuscany by expert craftsmen, with careful selection of leathers and materials and entirely Italian processing.
Waxed cotton stitching. Width: 22/20 mm.
Ref. 9384/Z.
AISI 316L
steel buckle with aged bronze PVD treatment.
Buckle: ref. 9598.

🔴Price  USD 1.450 $ / € 1.500 💰

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Press release - 2024
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PR DEPARTMENT Gianfilippo Versari
 press@u-­boatwatch.com - Mob. +39 338 9510499
SALES DEPARTMENT
sales@u-boatwatch.com - Tel + 39 0583 469288
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Monday, April 29, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire Steel


Jaeger-LeCoultreDUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire  Blue Dial Steel 42.5 mm - 2024

 JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire

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Key Facts :

  •     Duometre: a revolutionary approach to timekeeping precision
  •     The first Duometre model in steel – and a new case designn
  •     A deep blue dial distinguished by multiple decorative finishes

Since the launch of the Duometre Chronograph in 2007 – the first timepiece based on the ground-breaking Duometre concept – the system has been used with a few other complications, giving its name to a line of technically advanced watches that are distinguished by highly precise timekeeping. 

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In 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new generation of Duometre timepieces – among them a reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). The first Duometre piece to be offered in steel, its eye-catching blue dial, paired with a new case, lends a decidedly contemporary air to a timeless and distinctive design.

Ensuring a Perfect Supply of Energy

With their invention of the Duometre in 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers solved a fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches. That is, to operate, a complication must draw from the energy that is supplied from the barrel to the escapement via the gear train. This naturally interrupts the perfect regularity of the power supply and thus compromises precision.

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In testament to the Maison’s inventiveness since its earliest days, its watchmakers had already explored solutions to the problem in the 19th century: in an 1881 pocket watch they introduced Calibre 19/20RMSMI equipped with two barrels. However, a double-barrel calibre still does not address the real issue because both barrels feed power to a single gear train that is employed for both timekeeping and the operation of complications.

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Nevertheless, that early calibre provided the Manufacture’s 21st-century engineers and watchmakers with a starting point for the revolutionary Duometre concept. By effectively separating the power supply into two ‘streams’ – one barrel and gear train for timekeeping and a separate barrel and gear train for the complication(s), both linked to a single escapement – the Duometre system guarantees absolute constancy of the power supply, regardless of whether a complication is operating or not.

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Emphasising the precision of the calibre, a distinctive element of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire dial is the seconde foudroyante hand, which whirls continuously in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Making a complete revolution in one second (versus a ‘standard’ seconds hand, which rotates in 60 seconds) with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, the foudroyante hand makes it possible to observe intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second.

A Precise Approach to Aesthetics

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the pursuit of precision is not limited to the accuracy of timekeeping but is equally important for the beauty of the design and finishes. 

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On the deep blue dial of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the long and very fine hands are a signature of all Duometre watches, as is the symmetrical layout, with three sub-dials forming an inverted pyramid. 
 
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The sub-dial at 3 o’clock shows the time, with the cardinal hours marked by applied Arabic numerals; the sub-dial at 9 o’clock displays the date with a hand and the moon phase set against a blue sky. The seconde foudroyante sub-dial nestles beneath them at 6 o’clock.

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The dial is made in several sections, with different finishes to create visual interest and contrast. The opaline main dial has the very soft glow and sense of visual depth characteristic of that decorative technique. The lower section of the dial is sunray-brushed and, in an added touch of refinement, the two power reserve indicators are distinguished from this sunrayed background by an opaline arc.

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Inspired by the aesthetic of the sector dials that were featured on historic timepieces, the broad ring encircling each is sunray-brushed. The convex curve of the dial perimeter closely follows the contour of the glass -box crystal that protects it, and the sub-dials are slightly sunken into its surface, increasing the sense of visual depth.

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Further evidence of the Maison’s approach to precision can be seen in the finishing of the movement, fully visible beneath the transparent crystal case-back. Much of the calibre is open-worked, which serves both an aesthetic and a technical purpose: the latter enables the watchmakers to set and assemble some of the 374 components more easily, while the former allows a view deep into the mechanism.

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Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, yet the stripes must radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.

A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition

Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing.  

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(The French word
savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the only sharp lines to be found are on the highly polished edges of the lugs.

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A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated, to enable multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.

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With its blue dial and steel case, the new interpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire lends a decidedly contemporary air to a technically sophisticated timepiece. It perfectly represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentless pursuit of precision and its spirit of innovation, anchored in a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie.

==========================
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire

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 Reference: Q604848J  - Blue Dial

Case
Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 42.5
mm
Diameter: 13.05 mm thick
Case-back: Open
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381

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Jewels:    40
Reserve:    50
Frequency: 21.600
Date:    Date

Functions: Hour, Minutes, Central Seconds,
1/6th of a second, Moon Phases, Date, Two power reserves
Power Reserve: 50hours for each barrel
Front dial: Blue opaline
Dial
Appliqued numerals, Blue, Opaline
Strap
Alligator with small scale alligator lining 
Lug width: 21mm
Length 12h: 75mm
Length 6h: 120mm
Buckle
Double Folding Buckle
Stainless steel width: 18mm

🔴 Price :   $ 44,300 / 49.600 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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Thursday, April 25, 2024

Louis Erard – Le Regulateur Louis Erard x CEDRIC JOHNER Edition

 

Louis Erard EXCELLENCE Le Régulateur Louis Erard x CEDRIC JOHNER Edition 2024

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 THE PEARL OF THE ART OF WATCHMAKING

Louis Erard's new collaboration represents a new stage in the exploration of fine contemporary watchmaking. This time, the collaboration with watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner takes craftsmanship to new heights, as he personally hand-decorates the oscillating weight of each movement. With a sleek 39-millimeter case available in two captivating variations – blue and mauve – this limited edition release consists of two sets of 178 meticulously crafted pieces each.

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That's how a watch becomes a message. Better still, a symbol. The very image of sharing. Louis Erard has made a habit of opening up the field of vision of contemporary watchmaking, by inviting architects, artists, craftsmen and independent watchmakers. This new collaboration with Geneva-based Cédric Johner is at the crossroads of all these paths.

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In his own words, Cédric Johner practices "intuitive watchmaking". In other words, he makes his watches without plans. He makes a first component, then the next, which will fit in. And so on, until the finished, decorated watch. Watch after watch, one at a time, on demand, just a few units a year. He often starts with existing movements. 

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He loves vintage mechanisms. He selects them for the balance of their architecture, for their condition. Then he dismantles them, restores them, decorates them and reassembles them. He then moves on to the trim, which he makes in his workshop, by hand, starting with raw or barely shaped metal, which he manufactures on conventional machines. No plans, no computer assistance.

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He works alone. And with just his two hands, he can do anything. How does he do it? That's the story of Cédric Johner. A craftsman in a class of his own, he has lived through all the changes in the industry and practised every trade. His career began with an apprenticeship as a jeweller with Chopard. He went on to train as a watchmaker. But it was practice that taught him everything. He took advantage of every opportunity and every encounter to learn.

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He became self-employed immediately after completing his apprenticeship. Putting himself at the service of customers, he made bespoke pieces. Jewellery, bracelets, cases, complete watches. One day in the 1990s, he took the plunge and made his first watch, for himself. He designed a case, which he named Abyss. A unique design. One of its distinctive features is a hexagonal dial opening. On this basis, he would indulge in all manner of variations, from three hands to grand complications. He developed his own decorations, using the traditional machines such as his tapestry of beads made with a perloir, a pure jeweller's tool.

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There was one thing missing: to create a less exclusive piece, not reserved for collectors, but without making any concessions and retaining all the signatures of his art.

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It was at that moment when Manuel Emch, both Artistic Director and CEO of Louis Erard, reached out to Cédric Johner. Having already established a mutual understanding and shared values, their meeting was more akin to a reunion. Their handshake symbolized a bridge connecting two distinct realms: the realm of artistic watches and that of refined yet accessible watchmaking. Thus, the partnership was born. Their shared vision can be succinctly captured in a few words: to craft a limited series that exudes the refinement of a bespoke piece, without compromising on quality or craftsmanship.

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The awaited unveiling has arrived. Behold the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, presented in two exquisite variations: one adorned with a captivating blue dial, the other boasting a striking mauve hue. Limited to just two editions, each comprising 178 meticulously crafted pieces. All the signatures are present. Louis Erard's, the Excellence case, the fir-tree crown, the regulator calibre. The unmistakable essence of Cédric Johner is also evident, epitomizing unparalleled craftsmanship. 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 


The extreme sophistication of the dial, with its engraved guilloché decoration and concave turned hour and minute counters to add contrast and volume. The iconic hexagonal bezel opening further adds to its distinctive allure. witness the meticulously adorned automatic movement, each delicately decorated by the skilled hand of Cédric Johner with 230 intricately crafted beads, meticulously placed one by one, oscillating weight by oscillating weight, within the confines of his workshop.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

🤝 COLLABORATIONS  

Collection: EXCELLENCE

Model:  Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Mauve 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

ref. 85249AA02.BVA153
Limited edition of 178 pieces  - Price excl. tax: CHF 4'000

 

Movement     Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight decorated by Cédric Johner, approx. 38 hours of power reserve

Functions     HMS
    Hour hand in counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o'clock

Case     Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, lug width: 20 mm, lug to lug: 45.90 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm, 3 pieces, domed hexagonal sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown

Dial     Mauve PVD dial base with sunray pattern, hour flange at 12 o'clock and seconds flange at 6 o'clock, circular satin-finished in anthracite with polished angles, white transfers

hands     Polished rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands

Bracelet     Grey grained calf leather bracelet with tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
    Dimensions: 20/18mm width, 80/115 mm length

Collaboration    Watch developed in collaboration with Cédric Johner in a limited edition of 178 pieces
 

==========================

Model:  Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Blue 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

ref. 85249AA01.BVA150
Limited edition of 178 pieces  - Price excl. tax: CHF 4'000


Movement     Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight decorated by Cédric Johner, approx. 38 hours of power reserve

Functions     HMS
    Hour hand in counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o'clock

Case     Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, lug width: 20 mm, lug to lug: 45.90 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm, 3 pieces, domed hexagonal sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown
 
Dial     Blue PVD dial base with sunray pattern, hour flange at 12 o'clock and seconds flange at 6 o'clock, circular satin-finished in anthracite with polished angles, white transfers

hands     Polished rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands

Bracelet     Black grained calf leather bracelet with tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
    Dimensions: 20/18mm width, 80/115 mm length

Collaboration    Watch developed in collaboration with Cédric Johner in a limited edition of 178 pieces

🔰 Limited edition of 178 pieces

                                                    3 YEARS WARRANTY

🔴 Price excl. tax : CHF 4,000  💰

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Press release- 2024
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CONTACT:
LOUIS ERARD
Rue de l’Ouest 2
CH–2340 Le Noirmont
Suisse
info@louiserard.com
+41 (0) 32 957 65 30 

Cristina Saiu, Digital Marketing Executive
+41 32 957 65 34, Cristina.Saiu@louiserard.com

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Wednesday, April 24, 2024

Jaquet Droz – Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold - BON JOVI - Unique Piece

Jaquet DrozGRANDE SECONDE Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold - BON JOVI 40th anniversary - Unique Piece 2024 

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 TOURBILLON SKELET Red Gold - Bon Jovi:
It’s his life

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What more can you want when you've already reached the heights of fame? In a career spanning 40 years, the band Bon Jovi has sold over 130 million albums and its frontman, Jon Bon Jovi, has spanned the decades as a rock star with mass-market appeal, a shrewd entrepreneur and a committed campaigner renowned for his philanthropy.

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Now at this mature stage of his life, his accomplishments are driving him on to new horizons. Among these, his desire for a watch that reflects his personality: exacting, disruptive, unique. The path between his native New Jersey and La Chaux-de-Fonds opened up before him, and could only stop at Jaquet Droz...


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His fans number in the hundreds of millions, but none of them will have this unique watch.

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The Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold - Bon Jovi is in keeping with Jaquet Droz's "Philosophy of the Unique": a piece created by, for and with Jon Bon Jovi, a one-of-a-kind watch which will be owned by him alone - although his fans will be able to draw inspiration from it to create their own.

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Developed in close collaboration with the rock star, this timepiece will be on his wrist for the world tour to celebrate his band's 40th anniversary.

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Featuring a 41-mm red gold case, it brings together the DNA of Bon Jovi and the essence of Jaquet Droz's "Disruptive Legacy".

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It is a timepiece like no other. Its airy design is devoid of a dial. In a taut, edgy, highly contemporary architecture, its movement is secured to the case by a complex geometry of linear bridges treated with black PVD.

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At 12 o'clock, the tourbillon seems to float in mid-air. It is set against a large, hand-crafted white gold applique: the logo features two wings spread out on either side of a dagger, plunged into a heart engraved with the number "40" to mark the group's special anniversary.

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The two hour and minute hands are set here, literally 'at the heart' of the watch, creating a rich symbolism – between the soul and time, the heart and mind – which was particularly important to the artist. Entirely engraved and polished by hand, this logo is an original design that will be used throughout the band's anniversary tour.

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At the heart of this composition, what appears to be one assembly actually comprises many individual parts.

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On one side there are the wings and the dagger, then the heart, and finally the '4' and the '0'. By separating the components, Jaquet Droz was able to given them a specific finish. 

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Satin-brushed, polished and grained surfaces intertwine fluidly and naturally, beneath the unfurled wings which are hand-engraved from a solid gold block. The applique that tops it all bears the artist's name.

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The simple title "Bon Jovi" was actually particularly tricky to create: The text is in the group's own font and also had to be created by hand to reproduce the height, depth, spacing and angles.

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Jon Bon Jovi
personally oversaw the creation of this self-winding timepiece with its 8-day power reserve. His philosophy in life is summed up perfectly in one of his greatest songs: "It’s My Life".

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Create your own. As unique as you are

---------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  GRANDE SECONDE

Model: Tourbillon Skelet – Red Gold - Bon JoviEdition

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Reference: J0135230061 

Unique piece 1/1

Case
Material: 18-karat red gold case.
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 13.36 mm
18-karat white gold crown and tube
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Dial and hands
18-karat white gold dial, hand-engraved
Hand 18-karat red gold
Movement
Caliber Jaquet Droz 2625SQ
Self-winding skeleton tourbillon movement,  black treatment, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, single barrel, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight
Jewelling   30 jewels
Power reserve of 8 days.
Frequency     21,600 v.p.h.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds Tourbillon
Indications     
Off-centered hours and minutes at 6 o'clock.
Tourbillon frame and off-centered seconds at 12 o’clock. 
Strap     
Rubber strap
Buckle  18-karat red gold folding clasp

🔰 Limited Edition  to Unique only 1 pieces

🔴 Price: CHF 218'000 (incl. taxes)💰

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Press Release - 2024
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0) 32 924 28 82
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