Thursday, March 24, 2016

ALPINA – SEASTRONG Diver Heritage














ALPINA SEASTRONG Diver Heritage NEW

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THE ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER HERITAGE

Almost half a century after its first appearance, the Alpina "Seastrong 10" Super Compressor diving watch finds its way back into the Alpina collection as the "Seastrong Diver Heritage". More than a replica, a modern interpretation of a Swiss watchmaking classic.

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The Story
"When the water-resistant watch came on the market 15 years ago, some people thought it was just another crazy fashion or a sales gimmick. After all it is not absolutely necessary to wear your watch in the bath …" According to the German specialist magazine Uhrmacher-Woche.

In the year these watches first appeared, 1942, things looked very different. Women and men would value their wristwatch as an almost indispensable companion in all situations of life. Naturally, contact with water could not be ruled out. The technicians of the Swiss watch manufacturer Alpina therefore saw this as a challenge. Their dealers and their customers wanted wristwatches with water-resistant cases. Following several years of development work, the sporty and functional "Alpina 4" was therefore presented for the first time in 1938. The numeral stood for four impressive quality characteristics. Firstly, the timepiece had antimagnetic properties. An "Incabloc" impact protection device protected the delicate pivots of the balance wheel from breakage. Thirdly, the highly resilient case was made of stainless steel. Finally came the fourth and particularly important argument for purchasing the Alpina 4", in the form of a "Geneva" type water-resistant case. Its specially designed crown was patented. In spite of its outstanding qualities, however, this of course could not yet be described as a genuine diving watch. The presentation of such a watch by Alpina would have to wait a further 30 years.

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In this way, we learn from the annals of the art of watchmaking, the era of this type of wristwatch began. Not least because of the underwater equipment available, the pressure-tightness initially only extended to ten bar. Shortly afterwards instruments for professional use came on the scene, which easily withstood depths of up to 200 metres.

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Because air supply is always limited, time spent under water is extremely precious. To ensure the hours, minutes and seconds can be easily read, and as a reminder to divers to return to the surface in good time, product designers not only provided their diving wristwatches with striking illuminated dials and hands, but also incorporated a useful rotating bezel. For safety reasons, the rotating bezel can now exclusively be turned in an anticlockwise direction. In this way the time for remaining under water as displayed by the watch can only be reduced in the event of an accidental change, never increased. Because the inventor company had placed their unilaterally positioned rotating bezel under patent protection in the 1950s, their competitors either had to be content with copies that could be displaced on both sides, or proceed in a completely new direction.

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This is precisely the option chosen by Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA), based in Bassecourt in Switzerland. In 1956 the experienced watchmaking company presented a design of a new kind (which was therefore also patented). As usual, the back was also screwed together with the middle. In addition, however, the "Super Compressor", water-resistant to twenty bar, boasted a truly innovative special feature: an integrated spring mechanism prevented compression and the damage that this could cause to the rubber sealing ring when the case was being screwed down. But the name "Compressor" was also associated with a further characteristic: increasing diving depth and the increasing water pressure associated therewith press the two parts of the case ever more firmly together. The outstanding features of this newcomer also included two crowns, one for winding and adjusting the hands, the other for deliberately adjusting the internal diving time rotating ring in both directions. The sophisticated design really made sense. Accidental actions and incorrect operation of the "device for individual preselection of a diving time" (as specified by the relevant standard) were almost impossible. A third advantage consisted in a relatively flat design of the watches, which was both functional and elegant.

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No wonder that the EPSA has been able to secure many well known watch manufacturers as its customers over the years. One of these customers – closing the circle, as it were – was Alpina. In 1967 the cooperative brought its highly regarded "Alpina 10" on to the market. The "Super Compressor" case, water-resistant to up to twenty bar, housed the 572C automatic calibre. The extremely pressure-tight "Super Compressor" case is instantly recognisable from the outside by the grid pattern on both crowns, and on the inner side of the case back by the stylised depiction of a diving helmet.

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The 2016 Seastrong Diver Heritage

Just 50 years later, the highly regarded diving watch is back in the Alpina Collection, this time as the "Seastrong Diver Heritage". Its illustrious predecessor from the 1960s is recalled in two operating elements in the right case flank and the rotating ring which was (at that time, for good reason) shifted into the inside of the case. With the help of the crown, the rotating ring can be quickly and easily adjusted at "2". The 60 minute division is also useful for non divers. For example, the arrow can be positioned so that the approaching hour hand indicates when parking time is running out. Thanks to the modern case design, the classic stainless steel case (now increased to a diameter of 42 millimetres) with its engraved screwed case back resists water pressure up to 30 bar, corresponding to a diving depth of 300 m/1000ft.

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The modern AL-525 automatic calibre ensures timekeeping. This is the equally reliable, robust and accurate SW 200 from Sellita. Alpina has refined it with its customary attention to detail, giving the ball bearing mounted rotor the asymmetric form signature to the brand. The balance wheel completes 28,800 vibrations per hour. Fully wound, it has 38 hours of power reserve. Choosing a dial style may proof difficult. Admirers of the retro look will go for the traditional light-dark contrast design. Those who love elegant understatement will prefer the exclusively dark option.

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For more information on our watches, please visit our website or feel free to contact us directly.
You can email Mrs Annabel Corlay at corlay@alpina-watches.com

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Technical Specifications

Model: SEASTRONG Diver Heritage

Reference: AL-525S4H6 Silver color dial
Reference: AL-525G4H6 Dark grey color dial

Movement       
Caliber AL-525 automatic
26 jewels,
38 hours power reserve,
28,800 alt/h
Functions                
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date
Case               
Stainless steel case with internal turning ring
42 mm diameter, 12.3 mm thickness
Scratch – resistant glassbox sapphire crystal
Water-resistant 30 ATM/300m/1000ft
Engraved case-back
Screw-down crowns and caseback 
Dial   
  • Silver color dial with applied silver color indexes
    Internal black color ring with applied luminous indexes  
  • Dark grey color dial with applied silver color indexes
Internal dark navy color ring with applied luminous indexes
Date window at 4’ o clock
White luminous coated hours, minutes and seconds hands
Strap   
Black leather strap water-resistant

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BREGUET – Tradition Dame 7038


















BREGUETTradition Dame 7038 White Gold NEW

Pre-Baselworld 2016

Breguet’s Tradition collection welcomes a new
self-winding Tradition Dame 7038 model.

Women with a penchant for prestigious watchmaking and keen on acquiring an iconic timepiece will undoubtedly be won over by this elegant and technical Tradition watch featuring an ultra-modern, graphic structure proudly exhibiting almost all the movement components on either side of the mainplate. 

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It features a central barrel, a subdial at 12 o’clock bearing hands directly driven by the barrel, as well as a balance-wheel and intermediate wheels forming an arc stretching from 4 to 8 o’clock. The bridge bearing the escapement is reinforced by a hand-chamfered pare-chute – a Breguet invention that serves to protect the balance-staff from shocks. In terms of its display, the Tradition Dame 7038 shows the hours and minutes on a finely engine-turned Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial.

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These indications are discreetly complemented by the retrograde seconds engraved on the movement face at 10 o’clock. Another distinctive feature of this ladies’ timepiece lies in the finishing of its movement, with a decoration specifically designed with women in mind.

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The NAC treatment typical of the Tradition collection and hitherto appearing in grey, anthracite or golden rose tones, is replaced here by a frosted white movement admirably complemented by an 18-carat white gold case. Brilliant-cut diamonds delicately set on the bezel and a watch movement jewel unusually placed on the crown further contribute to the fresh, sparkling character of this Tradition Dame 7038.

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 Equipped with Calibre 505SR, it features a lever escapement with silicon pallets and a Breguet balance-spring also made of silicon.

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Technical specifications

Model: Breguet Tradition Dame 7038 White Gold

Ref. 7038BB/1T/9V6/D00D

Case
Case in 18-carat white gold with delicately fluted caseband.
Diameter 37.00 mm
Thickness 11.85 mm
Bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.895 ct).
Crown set with a watch movement jewel.
Sapphire-crystal caseback. 37mm diameter.
Welded lugs with screw bars.
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)
Dial
Dial in Tahitian mother-of-pearl, engine-turned and offset at 12 o'clock.
Individually numbered and signed BREGUET.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals.
BREGUET open-tipped hands in gold.
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Retrograde second
Movement
Self-winding. Numbered and signed BREGUET
Caliber: Cal. 505SR.
14½ lignes. 38 jewels
50-hour power-reserve
Straight-line inverted lever escapement with silicon pallets
BREGUET overcoil balance spring in silicon
Escapement Inverted straight-line lever / Silicon
Balance 3Hz frequency
Adjusted in 6 positions
Strap
Alligator leather strap 9V6
Pin Buckle in 18K white gold

Reference 7038BB/1T/9V6/D00D

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TUDOR – HERITAGE Advisor Titanium


TUDOR HERITAGE Advisor Cognac Dial Titanium NEW

The Heritage Advisor, with its automatic alarm function, is a reinterpretation of the brand’s 1957 classic, and this year features a new combination of cognac-coloured dial and strap.

The Heritage Advisor is a reinterpretation of the famous TUDOR alarm watch from 1957. An up-to-date version of this classic, it retains its original shape and proportions of its case, lugs, and glass, its dauphine hands and bevelled markers, as well as the design and colour of its red alarm hand.


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The case, made from titanium, which provides optimum sound quality for the alarm, has been increased from 34 mm to 42 mm in keeping with modern tastes.

COGNAC DIAL

The Heritage Advisor’s dial design is particularly intricate, with no less than five distinct elements. Decorated in a number of different ways, the various finishes contrast with one another to create a textural richness and stunning reflections.

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Although the overall tone is cognac, the centre of the dial is opaline, the calendar counter circular, the minute track, has a sunburst satin finish, while the outer flange and alarm power-reserve indicator disk have been sandblasted.

ALARM MODULE DEVELOPED BY TUDOR

The movement of the Heritage Advisor is equipped with an extra mechanical module which provides an alarm function. Developed in-house by TUDOR, it boasts perfect sound clarity, both clear and consistent. It also features an alarm power-reserve indicator shown on the dial by a disk at 3 o’clock, as well as an ON/OFF display at 9 o’clock, engaged by a pusher at 8 o’clock.

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In addition to the hour, minutes and seconds, the movement also indicates the date on a counter at 6 o’clock. The winding crown at 2 o’clock, engraved with the name ADVISOR, sets the alarm time. The winding crown, adorned with the TUDOR rose and positioned at 4 o’clock is used to set the time and change the date.

DELIVERED WITH TWO STRAPS

The Heritage Advisor model comes with a choice of a steel bracelet or a cognac-coloured alligator strap with a folding clasp, each accompanied by an extra black silk strap edged in satin, reminiscent of the decoration on the trousers of a tuxedo.
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Made  using the Jacquard technique according to traditional methods by a hundred-year-old family business from the St-Etienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.

THE HERITAGE LINE

A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’s first chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most important references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line.

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Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, the models in this line bring together the past, present and future, with the aesthetic codes that contributed to the reputation of historic models instilled into contemporary timepieces. In line with this approach, the Heritage Advisor offers a contemporary and improved version of the 1957 model.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Tudor HERITAGE Advisor

Reference: 79620TC

Case
Titanium and steel, 42 mm, polished and satin finish
Bezel: Smooth steel bezel, polished finish
 - Steel winding crown at 4 o’clock, with the TUDOR rose engraved and black-lacquered
 - Steel winding crown at 2 o’clock for the alarm function, with the name ADVISOR engraved and black-lacquered
 - Steel pusher at 8 o’clock to engage the alarm function
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Water- proofness: Waterproof to 100 m (330 ft)
Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement, TUDOR calibre 2892,
with additional alarm function mechanism developed exclusively by TUDOR
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours
Dial
Cognac
 - Alarm function ON/OFF display through an aperture at 9 o’clock
 - Alarm power reserve indicator displayed on a disc at 3 o’clock
Calendar shown by a hand at 6 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Steel bracelet or alligator leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch
Additional silk strap with buckle included in the box

Retail Price

Swiss Price (VAT incl.): From CHF 5'600.

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