VOUTILAINEN –28GML SOUYOU Platinum Edition - Unique Piece

 

VOUTILAINEN – Current 28GML "SOUYOU" Ttime Zone 39mm Platinum Edition - Unique Piece 2025

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Unique piece of Art: 
SOUYOU has been distinguished at the 

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025 (GPHG) 

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The Voutilainen 28 GML SOUYOU is a masterpiece that unites the extraordinary Japanese lacquer art of Mr. Tatsuo Kitamura with the Voutilainen workshop’s dedication to longevity, precision and classical watchmaking tradition. This timepiece offers a perfect balance of aesthetic and mechanical excellence, harmoniously blending Eastern and Western influences.

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The mesmerizing dial draws inspiration from the motto, “SOUYOU” — a coined word that is reflected in the striking contrast between blue, green, gold and red colours. “SOU” evokes, in the outer part of the dial, the sea represented by the deep, clear blue-green hues, while ‘YOU’, with its shades of gold and red in the center, signifies a natural organic form symbolizing solar energy. Created using the Urushi lacquering technique, it requires over a thousand hours of meticulous ‘work. This extraordinary creation incorporates raw materials such as “Urushi” (tree sap), “Kinpun” (various gold powders), “Kirigane” (cut gold sheets), and “Kirigai” (cut shell from New Zealand abalone and the great green turban).

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Perfect for world travellers, this unique piece displays hours, minutes, and a central second time zone via a disc that completes a full 24-hour rotation, designed to indicate the home time. Subtly integrated into the gold motif on a red background, the second time zone pointer is easy to read at first glance. Meanwhile, the central hour hand can be easily adjusted to the local time of the destination with a simple push on the crown.

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The mechanism was designed, built, fabricated, hand-finished and assembled to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop with the utmost precision, care and passion. Technically, the caliber of the 28GML is equipped with a very large balance wheel crafted in-house, ensuring precise rate stability and accuracy within strict tolerances. Additionally, a rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. 

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The exterior of the spring has a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little-known Grossmann curve, further increasing accuracy. It is also particularly remarkable due to its two escapement wheels, which provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel. This innovative construction improves efficiency by requiring less energy than the Swiss lever escapement and allows for notable benefits, for everyday use, such as longevity, stability and a longer power reserve.

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The case back offers a captivating view of the caliber 28GML ’s intricacies that is meticulously finished to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and polished with exceptionally uniform tolerances. The main plate and bridges, made from German-silver, are decorated by hand to achieve the utmost levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are also finished and polished by hand.

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Completing the overall design, the 39 mm timepiece in platinum features an elegant hand-sewn strap.  

 The watch has been nominated for the Artistic Crafts Watch category (PRIX DE LA MONTRE MÉTIERS D'ART) at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix GPHG 2025 (Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève).

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The Kitamura Studio and Urushi Lacquer Tradition

The Kitamura Studio, one of the world’s foremost Urushi lacquer studios, is located in Wajima, Japan. Under the guidance of Mr. Tatsuo Kitamura, it produces Urushi lacquer art that represents the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, carrying a craft that has endured for centuries into the modern era. Each piece embodies a profound respect for preserving the soul, spirit, and cultural identity of traditional Japan, as it was expressed during the Edo period (1615-1868). Among the various Urushi lacquering techniques, such as “Maki-e” and “Raden” in true classical tradition, Kitamura particularly excels in his own original one, “Saiei Maki”, which imparts a contemporary feel. This outstanding know-how uses various kinds and colours of special shells and fine gold inlay to recreate “Somada” technique - an extremely detailed, burnished maki-e art established in the 17 century but lost by the 19" century. In addition to creating original artworks, in recent years, the studio has also devoted energy to restoring traditional items once used by Edo-period feudal lords. Crafted hundreds of years ago, they retain their pristine beauty today, thanks to their durability and the ability to be restored, even when handled directly. This superlative artistry engages the viewer on a physical level, inspiring awe for the dedication, patience, and mastery essential to their creation.

About Urushi lacquer techniques

• MAKI-E is a lacquer art and decorative technique in which designs or patterns are drawn in Urushi lacquer, over which gold-powder is sprinkled (scattered) while the lacquer is wet, securing the design on the surface.

• RADEN is a mother-of-pearl inlay work and a decoration technique in which designs or patterns are drawn in Urushi lacquer, gold powder, cut gold sheets, turban and abalone shell.

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Technical Characteristics

Categories: Current Collection

Model: 216TMZ World Timer "SOUYOU "  - Unique Piece

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Ref.   28GML SOUYOU

Movement
Manual-winding mechanical Caliber 28GML GMT mechanism 
Indication of hours, minutes and display of a second time with towns and peripheral 24-hour disc. 
Quick crown correction  
Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops.
- In-house movement.
- 30mm x 6.00mm movement
- New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse.
- Adjustable weight made of 18K rose gold  
- Fleece plunge type
- Made of 18K white gold  
- Number of Parts 211
- Wheels manufactured from 18K rose gold.
- German silver baseplate and bridges
- Frosted finish, yellow gold-plated finish
<Balance> 
- Free-sprung balance
- 18K rose gold adjusting weight
- 27 jewels
- Integrated retrograde power reserve indication.
- Power reserve: approximately 60h hours
- Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights
- 18.000 variations / hours
Balance diameter 13.60mm
With Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve.
Case
Platinum Pt 950 and crown Unique case design
Size ø 39 mm
Thickness 11.20 mm
Double-Sided Sapphire Crystal
Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on both sides
Waterproofness 30 m 
Functions
Hours, minutes and second time zone in the center
Display of a second time and center 24-hour rotation
Dial
Saikage Maki-e (Colored Maki-e) Decoration
Second Time Zone Display
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio 
lacquer technique by Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. 
The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).
Hands ・Hour/minute hands: 18K white gold
            ・Blued steel Applied Ring, hand made
Strap
Hand sewn crocodile strap with platinum buckle

Additionals
All design, manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop.

Year 2025

🔰Limited to 1 unique piece.
🔴 Price   290’000 CHF (excluding VAT) 💰

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Press Release - 2025
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Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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www.Voutilainen.ch