TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time” 42 mm Titanium Master Chronometer - 2024
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PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Titanium
The Pelagos FXD platform, initially developed with a French Navy specialist unit, has now expanded to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.
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Since the
1950s,
TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (
French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first
Pelagos FXD model –
“FXD” referring to the extra robust
FiXeD strap bars of the watch case - was introduced in
2021, continuing the legacy of
TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the
Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service. In
2024, the
FXD family is expanding to the meet the needs of the
Aéronautique Navale (
French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations.
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The
Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). It’s standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the
French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “
Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “
jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones.
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The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.
KEY POINTS- 42 mm satin-brushed grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block, and grade 5 titanium case back engraved with the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) logo and the inscription “M.N.24” (Marine nationale 2024), inspired by the original TUDOR M.N. engravings of the 1970s and ’80s
- Bidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
- Black matt dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
- Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve
- Master Chronometer certified by METAS
- “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
- Orange 24-hour “Zulu time” arrow-head hand with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
- Flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper. Extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel
TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY
TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.
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TUDOR divers’ watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand’s timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous
TUDOR divers’ watch used by the
French Navy is the reference
9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials
“M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with
“Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’
70s and was supplied to the
French Navy until the
1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the
French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.
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In
2021, reviving this historic collaboration,
TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the
French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the
Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to
TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the
42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette.
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With the
Pelagos FXD GMT,
TUDOR and the
French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the
FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect.
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The
42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and colour-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer. These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information.
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Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the
MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO And to highlight the
Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the
French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (
French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of
“M.N.24” for
“Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.
A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY’S HERITAGE
Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise.
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Two strap types appear to have been particularly used over the years: black straps made from a single piece of braided nylon, and, less commonly, handmade straps made from parachute elastic, which could be recognised by their green colour and yellow or red central thread. It is to these ultra-functional relics, inextricably linked to the
French Navy, that the fabric strap of the
Pelagos FXD GMT pays tribute. In the case of the
Pelagos FXD GMT, the colour of the strap matches the specific colour of the flight suit worn by aviators of the
French Naval Aviation.
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The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure.
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Made from a 22mm green polyester woven ribbon, the strap features a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper as well as a removable fabric keeper, finely embroidered with the
French Naval Aviation’s roundel, composed of the
French flag’s blue, white and red colours, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in
1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons in its workshops, bearing the names of
French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by
French sailors.
COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified, currently the most demanding standard in the mechanical watch industry. This certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision.
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In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements only and a second less than
TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), applied to the brand’s models fitted with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of
15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve.
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It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the
Pelagos FXD GMT has achieved, are summarised below:
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- Swiss Made
- Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
- Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
- Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
- Guaranteed waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS
- Guaranteed 65-hour power reserve by METAS
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
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This movement offers the general look and feel of
TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasising its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to
TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO The build of the Manufacture Calibre
MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and
TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre
MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below
15,000 gauss.
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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre
MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES
Collection: PELAGOS
Model:
PELAGOS FXD GMT Titanium 42 mm
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Reference 2542G247NU-0002CASEGrade 2 titanium case, 42 mm in diameter, 12.7 mm thick, 52 mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish
Fixed strap bars
Grade 5 titanium case back
BEZEL24-hour didirectional rotatable bezel in grade 2 titanium with ceramic insert and
24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green
emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
WINDING CROWNGrade 2 titanium crown, adorned with the
TUDOR shield in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to
200 m (
660 ft)
CALIBREManufacture Calibre 5652-U (
COSC and
METAS certified)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Integrated
GMT function
TOTAL DIAMETER 31.8 mm
THICKNESS 7.5 mm
JEWELS 28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE Certified
65 hours by
METAS PRECISIONSwiss chronometer officially certified by
COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from
METASFUNCTIONSCentre jumping hour, 24-hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range, synchronised on the jumping hour hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATORVariable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (
4 Hz)
DIALMatt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” X1 blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELETFabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper, green
Removable fabric keeper
Included in the box
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Press Release - 2024
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