Thursday, February 27, 2025

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked 41 mm Edition

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Perpetual Calendar150th Anniversary” Openworked 41mm Titanium Edition - 2025

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A LIMITED-EDITION ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPENWORKED CELEBRATING AUDEMARS PIGUET’S 150 YEARS 

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Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to reveal the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” limited edition, reflecting the brand’s rich legacy in design, material and technical exploration. This timepiece is the last to be equipped with Calibre 5135 and gracefully bids farewell to the movement that has powered the Manufacture’s 41 mm openworked selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatches for nearly a decade.  

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Enhancing its timeless appeal, this model’s high-tech combination of titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) on the case and bracelet creates a sophisticated contrast with the dial’s vintage aesthetic inspired by a pocket watch exhibited in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet (reference 25729).

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This elegant limited edition of 150 pieces is adorned with design codes developed specifically for the anniversary that extend to other pieces of this year’s offering, celebrating the Manufacture’s enduring commitment to watchmaking tradition and innovation.

A FINAL TRIBUTE TO CALIBRE 5135

This year, the brand honours its solid foundations while embracing innovation for the future. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” is the last reference to house Calibre 5135, the movement that has powered Audemars Piguet’s 41 mm openworked perpetual calendars for almost a decade, closing down the curtain on a story that began in 1978 with the birth of its historic predecessor.

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In the dawn of the 1970s, at the height of the quartz crisis, Audemars Piguet released the thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatch of its time equipped with the ground-breaking Calibre 2120/2800. Conceived in secret by three dedicated watchmakers, this perpetual calendar movement set new industry standards, ushering a significant era of growth for the company. Over the next 18 years, the Manufacture produced, cased and sold more than 7,000 movements, reviving other classic complications along the way, including the openworked chronograph (1980), the first selfwinding tourbillon (1986), the minute repeater (1992) and the Grande Complication combination (1996). In 1984, Calibre 2120/2800 made its debuts in the Royal Oak collection (Model 5554), and an openworked version was introduced two years later (Model 25636). Although the production of perpetual calendar wristwatches was well underway, the company continued to create avant-garde and classical pocket watches with this complication too.

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Building on its predecessor’s legacy, Calibre 5134 was launched in 2015, adapting the perpetual calendar movement to a larger 41 mm case diameter while maintaining a thin 4.5-mm profile. It was housed in a new Royal Oak model with a dynamic aesthetic (ref. 26574), bringing renewed attention to a complication whose popularity had been in decline since 1989. This revival was confirmed in 2017 with the launch of a black ceramic animation causing a sensation (ref. 26579CE), which laid the foundations for many creative innovations in the perpetual calendar line.

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Combining the ancient art of openworking with cutting-edge technology, Calibre 5135 was released in 2019 to power the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in black ceramic (ref. 26585CE), revealing the movement’s refined decorations from both the front and the back of the watch. This sophisticated calibre has since then equipped various iterations, including an 18-carat white gold model set with 962 diamonds (ref. 26625BC) and a collaboration with Cactus Jack (ref. 26585CM) in 2023, before exploring new creative possibilities with Frosted Gold (ref. 26585BC) last year. After nearly a decade, this movement takes its final bow in a limited edition dedicated to celebrating the brand’s 150 years of fine watchmaking.

HIGH-TECH MATERIALS FOR ENHANCED ERGONOMICS

For this 41 mm limited edition, the lightness of titanium is combined with the resistance of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG), pushing material exploration and creativity further.

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Discovered in the 1960s, BMG is now used in applications as diverse as micro-electronics and golf. Produced in hundreds of different variations, this alloy shares several characteristics with other glasses when cooled rapidly, an essential step that prevents crystals from forming and freezes the material in a glassy state lending it strong, amorphous properties. Constantly experimenting with techniques, shapes and materials, Audemars Piguet has co-developed its own palladium-based BMG, composed of over 50% palladium, making it highly resistant to wear and corrosion with a glossy lustre. The Manufacture first coupled titanium with BMG for the one-of-a-kind Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin timepiece (ref. 15202XT) created for Only Watch in 2021, which also inaugurated the use of palladium-based metallic glass in watchmaking. BMG was further introduced to the Royal Oak’s “Jumbo” (ref. 16202XT) line two years later, before adorning a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26585XT) in 2024.

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Used for the new limited edition’s bezel, caseback frame and bracelet studs, the BMG has been mirror-polished to reveal its unwavering glow, elegantly complementing the titanium case and bracelet links for a captivating play of light. Known to be lightweight and resistant to shock, the titanium presents a satin-brushed finish with polished chamfers enhancing this timepiece’s brilliance. 

CELEBRATING THE ANNIVERSARY WITH SPECIAL DECORATIONS

This limited edition of 150 pieces is one of the references enhanced by subtle design codes specifically created to celebrate the Manufacture’s 150th anniversary. On the dial side, the moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock harmoniously integrates an “Audemars Piguet” signature inspired by historical documents. 

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The caseback frame includes two additional engravings: the “150” logo created in honour of the celebration, and the mention “1 of 150 pieces” in reference to the number of iterations produced.

Seek Beyond.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  ROYAL OAK Perpetual Calendar150th Anniversary” Openworked Titanium / 41mm

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 Ref. 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01 – Titanium

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 5135
Total diameter 29 mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 4.50 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 374
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75 Hz (19,800  vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year indication, hours and minutes.
CASE
Titanium case, BMG bezel and caseback frame
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked titanium crown
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9,90 mm
Water-resistant to 20m.
DIAL
Sapphire dial, blue brass inner bezel, round hour-markers and blue bathtub hour and minute hands in 18-carat white gold with luminescent material.
BRACELET
Titanium bracelet links with BMG studs and a three-blade titanium folding clasp

🔰 Edition of ✅only 150 pieces
🔴 Price :  190.000 € / CHF 175,000 / $ 194,000 USD💰

 New Product Overview 2025

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Press Release - 2025
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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