TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time” 42 mm Titanium Master Chronometer - 2024
The Pelagos FXD platform, initially developed with a French Navy specialist unit, has now expanded to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.
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Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
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Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones.
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KEY POINTS
- 42 mm satin-brushed grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block, and grade 5 titanium case back engraved with the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) logo and the inscription “M.N.24” (Marine nationale 2024), inspired by the original TUDOR M.N. engravings of the 1970s and ’80s
- Bidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
- Black matt dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
- Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve
- Master Chronometer certified by METAS
- “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
- Orange 24-hour “Zulu time” arrow-head hand with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
- Flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper. Extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel
TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY
TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.
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In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette.
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FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
And to highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “M.N.24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.
A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY’S HERITAGE
Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise.
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Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure.
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By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in 1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons in its workshops, bearing the names of French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors.
COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified, currently the most demanding standard in the mechanical watch industry. This certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision.
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Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
- Swiss Made
- Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
- Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
- Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
- Guaranteed waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS
- Guaranteed 65-hour power reserve by METAS
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES
Model: PELAGOS FXD GMT Titanium 42 mm
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CASE
Grade 2 titanium case, 42 mm in diameter, 12.7 mm thick, 52 mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish
Fixed strap bars
Grade 5 titanium case back
BEZEL
24-hour didirectional rotatable bezel in grade 2 titanium with ceramic insert and 24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
WINDING CROWN
Grade 2 titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre 5652-U (COSC and METAS certified)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Integrated GMT function
TOTAL DIAMETER 31.8 mm
THICKNESS 7.5 mm
JEWELS 28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE Certified 65 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre jumping hour, 24-hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range, synchronised on the jumping hour hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
DIAL
Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” X1 blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper, green
Removable fabric keeper
Included in the box
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Press Release - 2024
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