Showing posts with label Moritz Grossmann. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Moritz Grossmann. Show all posts

Saturday, October 18, 2025

Moritz Grossmann – BENU Power Reserve Gold


Moritz Grossmann BENU HERITAGE Power Reserve in Rose Gold & White Gold 2025

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The fine art of the mechanism: Moritz Grossmann presents the new BENU Power Reserve with new details

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Progress in step with traditional values: the manufactory Moritz Grossmann believes the greatest virtue is to combine innovation with time-proven principles – and to do so with the highest quality, fine mechanisms and timeless design. 

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With the Benu Power Reserve model, this principled approach to enhancement can be seen in revised and updated details. The Benu Power Reserve is available in rose gold and white gold cases and features a new hand shape and exceptional dial decoration, amongst other things.

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A watch’s dial is its face. Its aesthetic follows rules that are passed down over time, although its roundness continually offers new ways for watchmakers and designers to apply their craft. Additional dials as well as surfaces and colours in different designs shape the personality of a watch.

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These are attributes that are used at the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, too, where the same values apply to the dial as they do during the engineering, production and decoration of manufacture movements: classic design, meticulous handicraft and subtle surface decoration.

Azurage: a new look for the dial

The appearance of the Benu Power Reserve has been refreshed with this mission in mind. It is the first time that the Moritz Grossmann linear power reserve indicator has been combined with Azurage decoration, a circular pattern of ultra-thin grooves which catch the light in an intriguing and appealing way.

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With the Benu Power Reserve, the outer ring – which is adorned by numbers and indices – is decorated with Azurage. The ring encircles the centre of the dial, which has a soft, matt surface featuring a fine texture. 

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The effect of this combination is emphasised by the dial’s silver shimmer in the colour argenté. The logo and minute scale have a distinctly subtle effect in their dark grey colour. The blue digits and indices are attached as appliqués and complemented by blue, tempered hands. 

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Their presence sees a new form of hand make its debut: hands which are made from steel in the manufactory and captivate with a slight curve that extends to an exceedingly fine tip. 

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After being bevelled carefully to add curvature to the surface, and after polishing, the hands are tempered and become blue. This is traditionally done with a thermal treatment.

Experience the mechanism: the power reserve indicator

With mechanical movements, there is one question more important than any other for the watch wearer: how long is the power reserve? 

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For hand-wound calibres in particular, the wearer needs to attend to the watch in good time to rewind the movement using the crown. 

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The power reserve indicator is a helpful addition for this task and, moreover, a charming detail. It turns the mechanism into a tangible experience and is a continual reminder that there is a piece of craftsmanship resting on the wearer’s wrist.

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Moritz Grossmann referenced the manufactory’s subtle and classic design perfectly with the power reserve indicator. It takes a linear shape in a small aperture under the ‘12’ on the dial, where a blue and white bar element driven by a differential wheel train can be seen. 

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When the movement is fully wound, a completely white bar is displayed and when the power reserve decreases, an increasingly coloured bar is displayed.

The movement: a calibre 100.2

The inside of the Benu Power Reserve is home to a calibre 100.2, an enhancement of the calibre 100.1. Thanks to the differential gear, it houses an additional mechanism for displaying the power reserve.

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The movement uses Grossmann’s manual winding with a pusher, a cantilevered balance cock with Grossmann micrometre screw, a separately removable winding module and the mass optimised Grossmann balance. 

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A sapphire crystal back on the reverse of the watch reveals the intricately finished components of the movement, showcasing the finest German craftsmanship from the Moritz Grossmann manufactory.

Rose gold or white gold case with a soft leather strap

The Benu Power Reserve is available in two versions, one with a rose gold case and another with a white gold case. 

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Thanks to its simple shape, the case is an expression of the classic Moritz Grossmann approach. The surface has been carefully brushed and possesses a matt sheen. 

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Characteristic details include the cross grooves on the crown and the slimline strap lugs. The latter ensconce the soft strap, which with the Benu Power Reserve takes the form of a grey band made of supple kudu leather with blue stitching to reflect the colour combination on the dial.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  BENU

Model: BENU Power Reserve Gold

Versions: 🔴 Price53’000 CHF excluding VAT 💰 

Reference: MG-003772 - Rose Gold

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Reference: MG-003599 - White Gold

Case
    Material: 18-carat rose or white gold
    Diameter: 41.0 mm
    Thickness: 11.65 mm
    Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Dial and hands
    Dial: Argenté (outer ring decorated with Azurage); numerals and indices in the form of blue appliqués
    Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a blue hue
Movement
    Manufacture calibre 100.2 

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    Manual winding, regulated in five positions
    Diameter: 36.4 mm
    Height: 5.4 mm
    Number of parts: 227
    Number of jewels: 26, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons

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    Oscillator: Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws,
    Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
    Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
    Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
    Power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound
Special features
    Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; bar-shaped power-reserve indicator with two-coloured display segment driven by a differential wheel train; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winder; stop seconds for hand setting
Functions/Indications
    Hours and minutes
    Subsidiary seconds with stop second
    Grossmann manual winder with pusher
    Power-reserve indicator
Strap
    Hand-stitched calf leather with solid prong buckle in precious metal

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Moritz Grossmann Uhren

Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she incorporated Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they have created an “Origin of a new time” with their watches.  

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Press release - 2025
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PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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Thursday, January 25, 2024

Moritz Grossmann – BENU TOURBILLON Tremblage in Rose Gold & White Gold Edition


Moritz Grossmann BENU HERITAGE TOURBILLON Tremblage in Rose Gold & White Gold Edition 2024

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The new TOURBILLON Tremblage by Moritz Grossmann stands for the aesthetics of numerous crafting techniques and sophisticated, perfect mechanics

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A watch made by Moritz Grossmann is the joint work of many talented hands: numerous techniques are practised at the manufactory in Glashütte, resulting in the creation of exceptional timepieces. 

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The new TOURBILLON Tremblage now demonstrates the expressive power of traditional craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. The centrepieces are the painstakingly crafted dial with a tremblage surface created by hand and the sophisticated tourbillon mechanics. The new model comes in rose gold and white gold versions, each of which is limited to eight watches.

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The new TOURBILLON Tremblage by Moritz Grossmann is founded on the visions and abilities of great craftspeople of the past and present. 
 
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The watch brings the innovations of outstanding watchmakers of yesteryear and the present day together with the very best finishing and decorating techniques as maintained at the manufactory in Glashütte, the watchmaking town in Saxony.

The dial: staging the mechanics

With absolute devotion, attention is paid both to the watch’s inner workings and its features. The TOURBILLON Tremblage’s dial is one of its special features – a multi-part construction made of German silver in a symmetrical design.

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The inner part with tremblage revives a historical technique. It is engraved by hand using a variety of burins: the tools are moved across the metal in a trembling motion, which is also where the name comes from, with the French ‘tremblant’ meaning ‘to tremble’ in English.

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The challenge is to achieve an even look, creating an effect which is both rough and matt. In the case of the inner dial of the TOURBILLON Tremblage model, this has been achieved to captivating perfection, as the tremblage surface softens the incident light, making it appear wonderfully matt. The other parts of the dial are matt opaline.

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All the dial parts are subsequently galvanised in ‘black-or’ – an expressive anthracite colour. The processing of the dial, from the engraving to the finishing, requires several days to complete.

The presentation of time

At the heart of the dial visually is the tourbillon, which is flanked by the off-centre hour display at 3 o’clock and a second display at 9 o’clock. 

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The hands are manually crafted from 750/000 gold in the rose gold version and from polished steel in the white gold version. The shapes of the handcrafted hands hint at their functions: the small second hand is more delicate, while the hour hand is stouter in design. They guarantee reliable time reading.

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The fine tip of the minute hand sweeps past the minute scale around the dial’s outer perimeter. As the minute display is interrupted by the aperture for the tourbillon in the lower half of the dial, the minute hand has been extended beyond the centre. 

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This counterpart now precisely presents minutes 25 to 35 on a scale. This twofold minute display is likewise a special Moritz Grossmann feature and is patented.

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With its Arabic numerals in white and the very delicately tapered hands crafted at the company’s own manufactory, the TOURBILLON Tremblage showcases the clear aesthetics of the Glashütte precision measuring instruments of the 19th century.

The legacy of great watchmakers

The major personalities whose achievements serve as the basis for this latest innovation go by the names of Moritz Grossmann, Alfred Helwig and Abraham Louis Breguet

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Grossmann, who founded the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte in 1878, influenced watch manufacture in the 19th century and established a rich watchmaking legacy.  

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Alfred Helwig taught at the German School of Watchmaking in the first half of the 20th century and filed a patent application for the flying tourbillon in 1920

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As the author of the book Drehganguhren on tourbillons, he inspires the design engineers at the Moritz Grossmann manufactory to this day.

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Breguet was at work in Paris even earlier, in the 18th and the early 19th century. He influenced the watchmaking generations that followed with his developments. One of his best-known inventions is the tourbillon – a construction that mounts the escapement in a rotating cage to offset the effects of gravity on the balance. 

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The tourbillon became a highly respected complication in wristwatches too as it attests to the very height of watchmaking expertise.

A modern version of traditional mechanics

The Moritz Grossmann manufactory unveiled the first calibre with a tourbillon more than ten years ago. It bears the company’s unmistakable signature as the manufactory does not settle for repeating the past, instead creating modern versions of traditional mechanics. This involves handed-down techniques being completely reimagined, such as the construction of the tourbillon in the hand-wound calibre 103.0.

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What was created here was a generously sized oscillator which, influenced by Alfred Helwig, is only mounted on one side. The tourbillon is therefore visually impressive too, especially with its unusually large diameter of 16 millimetres and its reduced aesthetics. 

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It additionally boasts a longer cycle time: whereas traditional tourbillons generally turn on their axis once a minute, the Moritz Grossmann construction takes a full three minutes to perform a rotation. 

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Other features include the filigree cage top resting on just two pillars and the characteristic V-shaped balance bridge, which is protected as a registered design.

Stop-second function with elastic brush made of hair

The cage’s elaborate design with two triangular pillars is the prerequisite for another special construction feature. According to the Grossmann watchmakers’ understanding, the precise mechanics of a tourbillon first call for exact time setting. 

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To halt the balance uninterrupted, this stop device needs to avoid the frame pillars. An elastic brush made of human hair can easily glide past the triangular pillar and gently slow the balance down at the rim perimeter. The patented stop solution rounds out the mechanism in keeping with a Grossmann precision timepiece.

The finish: detailed perfection

The devotion with which timepieces are constructed and manufactured at Moritz Grossmann is also seen at the highest level at the decoration stage: each and every component is individually finished by hand. 

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The plates and the tourbillon cock are finished with hand-engraved Glashütte ribbing, while edges which are bevelled by hand and three-band snailing on the ratchet wheel are especially aesthetic. The polished screws are set in gold chatons and the jewels are white sapphire.

Perfection in white gold and rose gold

The new TOURBILLON Tremblage is premiering in two versions: with a case in rose or in white gold and hands in rose gold or steel. 

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The rose gold model is worn on a brown alligator leather strap, while the white gold version is combined with a black alligator leather strap. Both versions are limited to eight pieces each.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  BENU

Model: BENU Tourbillon Tremblage Gold Edition

Versions: 

Reference: MG-003617 - Rose Gold

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands:  Handcrafted, 750/000 gold, polished

Limitation    8 watches     🔴 Price : 237 400💰

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Reference: MG-003616 - White Gold
 
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Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands:  Handcrafted, polished steel

Limitation    8 watches   🔴 Price 235 600💰

Movement
Manufacture calibre 103.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
No. of parts:    245 (wheel train 186, cage 59)
No. of jewels:    30, 4 of which in screwed gold chatons (wheel train 17, cage 13)
 
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Escapement:    Lever escapement

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Oscillator:     Grossmann three-minute tourbillon with stop seconds; shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Cage diameter:    16.2 mm
Cage speed:    1 revolution in three minutes, anti-clockwise when viewed from dial side
Balance diameter:    14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:   72 hours when fully wound
Functions / features
­    Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending)
­    Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds, replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patent pending)
    Stop seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patent pending)
­    Asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin
­    Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim
­    Newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing
­    Brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum
­    ARCAP train wheels
­    Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the handsetting mode and start the movement
­    Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
­    Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver
­    Hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock
­    Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing
­    3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel
­    Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
­    White sapphire bearing jewels
­    Separately removable clutch winder
Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 white gold to wind the watch and set the time,
pusher in 750/000 white gold to start the movement
Case dimensions: 
Diameter: 44.5 mm, height: 13.8 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
Case
Three-part, in 750/000 white gold
Dial
Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, Arabic numerals printed white Hands:     Handcrafted in 750/000 gold/polished steel
Crystal/display back:    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold

Special features

Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel
and V-shaped balance bridge (protected as a registered design);
central minute display, off-centre display for hours and seconds
with stop-second function, bridging of the scale gap in the minute
dial from 25–35 minutes via a hand extension with separate scale
(patented); stop-second function on balance rim with intervention
by a hair brush (patented); asymmetric-arm lever escapement
with counterweight and lever banking pin; Grossmann balance
with a suspended balance spring and regulation via
poising screws in the balance rim; newly developed jewel bearing
for the barrel; brake ring on the second arbor made of very hard,
oily lignum vitae; movement wheels made of ARCAP; Grossmann
manual winder with pusher to override hand setting and to start
movement; modified Glashütte recoil click; pillar movement with
plate and frame pillars made of untreated German silver; plate and 
tourbillon cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte
ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons
with pan-head screws; white sapphires as jewels; separately
removable yoke winding mechanism

Limitation    8 watches

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Moritz Grossmann Uhren: 

Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she incorporated Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they have created an “Origin of a new time” with their watches. 


-------------------------------
Press release - 2024
-------------------------------

----------------------------------
PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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