HAUTLENCE – Vagabonde × Black Badger Edition

HAUTLENCE – Vagabonde × Black Badger Labyrinth Dial Limited Edition 2023

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Born of the meeting of two brands and two universes, both different but connected by a shared sense of aesthetics and an exceptional, slightly unorthodox mindset, the Vagabonde X Black Badger model marks the collaboration between HAUTLENCE and designer James Thompson a.k.a. Black Badger. 

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Specialising in innovative materials which he uses in his own distinctive way, James Thompson is also known as the "Master of Glow", a reference to Badgerite®, a 3D luminescent composite which he usually works with to bring a unique, artistic approach to everything he touches. 

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The new Vagabonde X Black Badger focuses on the interplay of volumes and contrast, the tension between black and bright colours, and the interaction between the positive and negative space. A fine reinterpretation of the wandering hours model with four hands.

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This project arose out of the meeting of two universes and two personalities. Appreciating HAUTLENCE's aesthetic and the TV screen shape of its signature case, James Thompson immediately saw the full potential of the Vagabonde model: "When Samuel, HAUTLENCE Brand Manager, showed me this model, I was struck by the empty space around the time display system. Negative space isn't wasted space when you think architecturally. Here, it is the negative space which gives this piece all its character. That was the perfect canvas for me to add my personal touch."

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Drawing upon his expertise with luminescent material, James would literally "badgerise" the dial of the Vagabonde, appropriating its aesthetic by enriching it with 3D Badgerite® elements. This material – a Super-LumiNova®-filled ceramic composite – was created in HAUTLENCE's signature orange colour. Using light as a tool in his work, James wanted to create a piece that would be as beautiful to look at in the daytime as it was at night-time. Like an explosion of light in different spectra, the minute indices are also in Badgerite®, while the hour numerals are enhanced with Super-LumiNova®. 

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For James, "contrast is very much an element in the Vagabonde X Black Badger: the contrast of shapes, between the sharp corners and the rounded, almost organic ones; the tension between colour and light on the one hand, and black on the other; the contrast of using cutting-edge luminescent materials, but having the esthetic of something closer to an 1980’s arcade game. It is this delicate balance which creates a work of art."

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On the base dial, featuring a frosted finish, the sapphire minute dial adds another level to the look of this model. Inside a central disc, the hours rotate, turning on their own axis to mark the passing hours. 

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Driving the rotation of the hour discs, featuring a matt black finish, the B30 bidirectional self-winding movement guarantees a minimum power reserve of three days. This calibre is based on a manufacture movement designed in collaboration with H. Moser & Cie., which HAUTLENCE developed in a modular way to create this stunning piece.

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In steel, the TV screen-shaped case of the Vagabonde X Black Badger model has been redesigned, offering water resistance to 10 ATM. Retaining its balanced proportions, it is equipped with a bevelled sapphire crystal and a fluted crown with a rubber ring in the same blue as the integrated rubber strap.

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Technical Specifications

 Collection: VAGABONDE

Model: Vagabonde X Black Badger

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Reference: AB30-ST01

Case
Material: Satin-finished and polished steel
Dimensions: 43.0 x 50.8 mm
Thickness: 11.9 mm/10.9 mm excluding sapphire crystal
Bezel: satin-finished and polished steel.
Crown: polished steel and blue rubber ring; engraved HAUTLENCE logo.
Glass: extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back: sapphire crystal engraved with "HAUTLENCE", Black Badger logo, "10 ATM WATER RESISTANT", "Horlogerie Suisse";
Water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial
Base dial: Frosted Blackor
Dial set with orange 3D Badgerite® elements
Super-LumiNova-filled hour numerals; matt black hour discs.
Intermediate dial: sapphire with white 3D Badgerite® minute numerals; Lumicast® rings.
Movement
Calibre B30 self-winding mechanical movement
Power reserve: minimum of 72 hours
Regulating organ: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Number of components: 197
Number of jewels: 34
Functions/Indications
Wandering hours and minutes
Strap and buckle
Blue rubber
Folding clasp: steel

 🔰– Limited edition 28 pieces
🔴Price 33'000 CHF💰

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Press Release - 2023
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Contact us for any further information:
Guillaume Tetu, CEO and Co-founder - g.tetu@hautlence.com
Caroline Büchler, Marketing & Communication Manager - c.buechler@hautlence.com
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication - Unique Piece

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication Minute Repeater Gold - Unique Piece 2023

 New in-house movement with 11 complications

•     One-of-a-kind double-sided watch housing new manual-winding in-house Calibre 2755 TMRCCQP and 11 horological complications including a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a precision moon phases, a sky chart.
•     Extremely complex timepiece with an atypical face accentuated by the double central display of the moon phases.
•     Highly elaborate design ensuring perfect readability of the time-related and astronomical indications.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

With its time-related and astronomical complications regulated by a tourbillon and completed by a minute repeater, the manual-winding 2755 TMRCCQP calibre powering this watch is a masterpiece of complexity with its 774 components. Representing one of watchmaking’s most sophisticated grand complications, this white gold single-piece edition displays its indications in a perfectly legible manner. Stemming from an aesthetic quest dedicating elegance and purity of style to the service of technical sophistication, this timepiece is notably distinguished by the Maison’s characteristic retrograde function as well as by the refined finishes highlighting the double moon phase display that is the key feature of this watch.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  The initial intention behind the Les Cabinotiers Dual moon Grand Complication watch was to pay an original tribute to the Moon. Often relegated to the background, the moon display is now very much in the forefront on this model, asserting its striking presence both by its colour code and by its size. As the idea was also to offer a vision of the Earth's satellite as it appears in the northern and southern hemispheres, the central moon phase indication, already a rarity in the watchmaking world, is therefore characterized by a double display. 

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This complication, already featured in the Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, makes a strong statement in this highly technical musical timepiece with an astronomical vocation and 11 complications.

Front: a spectacular show

Indications:
- Off-centre mean solar time with hours and minutes
- Precision moon phases and age in both hemispheres
- Gregorian perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year indications and instantaneous retrograde date hand
- Minute repeater
- Precision moon phases and age for the Northern and Southern hemispheres

The full measure of Vacheron Constantin's ingenuity in staging the art of watchmaking is stylishly and elegantly expressed in this double-sided watch. This highly complex model is distinguished by the legibility of its hourly and astronomical functions, stemming from the Maison’s characteristic aesthetic quest perpetually focused on essentials.

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On the front of the watch, the eye is drawn to the depiction of the moons in the two hemispheres on a disc coaxial with the central hands and shaped like a starry dome. Its deep blue colour makes a striking contrast with the silvery hue of the dial as it performs a complete rotation in 59 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. Such is the tempo given to so-called astronomical moons, which scrupulously respect the duration of the synodic months with a discrepancy of only 24 hours every 122 years and 16 days. 

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The age of the Moon is indicated around a periphery scale graduated from 1 to 29½. On this titanium dome graced with rhodium-plated moons on a blue-sky background obtained by physical vapour deposition (PVD), the meticulous care devoted to details – orchestrated in nine stages and involving nearly 56 hours of work – adds an additional original touch. The uneven surface of the moon, like the brilliance of the tiny stars, was achieved by diamond cutting: a micron-level high-precision machining process which gives faceted depth to the material that shines or sparkles differently depending on the angle from which the light plays across it.

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The display of the hours and minutes of mean civil time complete with lunar cycles has been slightly off-centred upwards to enable the harmonious integration of calendar indications. Instead of the traditional pointer-type dials used for perpetual calendar indications, Vacheron Constantin's Master Watchmakers and designers opted for rotating discs. This solution adopted for a mechanism that follows the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar without any need for correction before 2100, is admittedly more complex on a technical level yet offers greater flexibility in the arrangement of the indications to ensure more convenient readings. 

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The semi-instantaneous display of the day and the instantaneous display of the month and leap-year appear through apertures, as does the date display. Here again, this display positioned on the upper rim of the dial is shown through a semi-circular window, but with a retrograde hand. A technical and stylistic signature of Vacheron Constantin since the early 20^th century, retrograde mechanisms require great precision in the doubling of the gears used to store the energy required for the return of the indicator.

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The four-part dial construction and the finishing of each fully matches the technical nature of the model. A 0.35 mm thick sapphire dome is placed on a silver-toned metal baseplate with a sandblasted finish and openworked calendar apertures. This dome beneath which the moon-phase disc turns is fitted with two ‘masks’ whose smoky appearance is achieved by metallisation. It is held in place by a curved brass ring, satin-brushed with an opaline varnish, which in turn bears the white gold hour-markers.

Back: a cosmic dimension

Indications:
- Tourbillon regulator
- Sky chart
- Sideral hour display

The likewise multi-part rear dial construction ensures the clarity and understatement of the various displays. To ensure the moon phases take priority on the front of the watch, the opening revealing the tourbillon regulator has been placed on the back. Invented at the beginning of the 19^th century, this device enclosing the escapement and the balance-and-spring assembly in a mobile carriage is designed to compensate for the effects of Earth’s gravity on the isochronism of the regulator and thus ensure enhanced precision. The one-minute-rotating tourbillon is distinguished by its carriage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem, with its delicately hand-polished bar. To diminish the weight (hence improving performance) as well as for aesthetic reasons, the tourbillon components have been skeletonised – notably the fixed wheel which is entirely openworked.

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The architecture of the dial on the reverse side also reflects a desire to create an astronomical watch with a display of sidereal time and constellations against a celestial backdrop. This timepiece paying homage to the Moon naturally had to integrate the notion of sidereal time – also known as "sidereal hour angle" – enabling astronomers to calculate the meridian of the stars. Using a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time it takes the Earth to complete a full 360° revolution – or sidereal day – is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. As the Earth both spins on its axis and revolves around the sun, it takes about four minutes to return to its starting point in relation to the given star.

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A fixed dial, bearing a blue dot representing the celestial horizon, is positioned below a movable sapphire crystal engraved with the constellations, while the rim features month markings as well as five-day graduations. By performing a complete rotation according to sidereal time, this mobile disc gives the exact position of the constellations – delimited by the celestial horizon – at the time when the watch is consulted by pointing it Northwards. Sideral time is read off counter-clockwise, facing the current date on the fixed PVD-treated blue outer ring bearing a 24-hour scale along with the cardinal points.

Minute repeater

This timepiece featuring 11 of the noblest horological complications laid out in an extremely elegant manner would have been inconceivable without making it a musical watch incorporating a minute repeater. 

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To create this particularly complex striking mechanism controlled by a repeater slide housed on the caseband, Vacheron Constantin's Master Watchmakers drew inspiration from La Tour de l'Île. This double-sided anniversary watch produced in a 7-piece edition for the Maison’s 250^th anniversary is the most complicated wristwatch ever made with its 16 complications, including a minute repeater with a centripetal strike regulator. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

This silent system also found in the Dual moon Grand Complication enables the duration of the musical sequences to be perfectly timed in order to obtain a distinct and harmonious sound of the notes played for the hours, quarters and minutes by the hammers striking two circular gongs. As an additional feature, the gongs of this repeater have been slightly ovalised to avoid them overlapping the tourbillon and without affecting their crystal-clear sound.

Calibre 2755 TMRCCQP, a watchmaking adventure

In-house Calibre 2755, one of Vacheron Constantin's major developments, was chosen to power all these functions, which are complemented by a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. This movement has undergone major transformations over the years – notably in the realm of astronomical functions – and represents a true horological adventure. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication watch with its 774 components is perfectly in tune with this adventure that has already seen Calibre 2755 interpreted in many ways through designs testifying to the quest for elegance amid complexity. Endowed with a 58-hour power reserve, Calibre 2755 TMRCCQP beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Circular satin-brushed and hand-bevelled, with a Côtes de Genève motif on the rear bridges as well as mirror-polished hammers and strike-regulator bar, this in-house movement has been meticulously finished. To ensure a smoother match with the 46 mm-diameter case in 18K white gold, it has also been entirely rhodium-plated. 

As is the case with all timepieces from the Maison, this model showcases the extreme attention to detail lavished on every component, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. This quest for excellence is expressed as much in the technical and aesthetic choices and decisions as in the painstaking finishing.

Summary

A single-piece edition created by Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers department, this double-sided Dual Moon Grand Complication watch with its 11 time-related and astronomical complications regulated by a tourbillon and enhanced by a minute repeater radiates a rare degree of elegance. 

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The latter is expressed through the perfect legibility of the functions as well as the meticulous care devoted to the details of the decoration and finishing. The result is an understated and complex watch endowed with self-evident functions. The front thus features the precision double moon-phase display, with its age, an impressive show staged in the dial centre and complemented by the hours, minutes and perpetual calendar indicators. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The latter is notably distinguished by its retrograde date, a Vacheron Constantin technical and aesthetic signature. Astronomical indications appear on the reverse side of the watch with the time of the sidereal day – which is four minutes shorter than the civil day – and with a sky chart showing the position of the constellations in real time. 

The back of the watch also features an opening revealing the tourbillon and its Maltese cross-shaped carriage. Incorporating a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the model is powered by Calibre 2755 TMRCC QP, whose base movement represents one of the brand's major developments.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Les Cabinotiers

Model: Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication - Unique Piece

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 Reference  9770C/000G-007C

 
Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding  - Calibre  2755 TMRCC QP
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.30 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
774 components
50 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications                                    

Front side:                                 

Hours and minutes
1-      Minute repeater
2-6   Perpetual calendar with retrograde date with instantaneous hand return, semi-instantaneous day and month & year instantaneous
7-8 Precision Moon phases and age of the Moon for North and South hemispheres

Back side                                  

9- Sideral hour indication (24H)      
10- Celestial chart 
11- Tourbillon
Case
18K white gold
46 mm diameter, 17.10 mm thick
Dials (face & back)                 
Metal, Sand blasted silvered
18K gold hands and applied hour-markers
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle
18K white gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross-shaped

BOX
Les Cabinotiers box

Unique timepiece
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

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#VACHERONCONSTANTIN
#OneOfNotMany
#LesCabinotiers   
#GrandComplication
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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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KUDOKE – HANDwerk KUDOKE 3

 

KUDOKE – HANDwerk KUDOKE 3 Steel / 18 ct Rose Gold 39 mm Edition 2023

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 Masters of Horology - GENEVA

We must apologize that the presentation of a new model took us so long! The success of our HANDwerk line and winning the GPHG 2019 with KUDOKE 2 has simply overwhelmed us. The unrelenting demand has tied up our complete capacities. We have taken this into account and expanded our team and started to build a new, larger premises for the manufactory.

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Long awaited, but now the time has finally come: after the first two models of the HANDwerk collection KUDOKE 1 and KUDOKE 2, as well as numerous variations and limited editions, the next model of this collection will now be presented in Geneva as part of the exhibition "Masters of Horology" of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) from March 27 to April 2, 2023. And what other name could it have other than: KUDOKE 3.

KUDOKE 3

As with the two previous models, the unique signature of the HANDwerk collection is unmistakable in this timepiece. Again applied elements harmonize with the matte frosted dial surface, lending the watch a sophisticated simplicity. And yet, the dial side is quite different from its predecessors. Inspired by antique English pocket watches, Stefan Kudoke has reinterpreted them in the style of the HANDwerk line and thus chosen a somewhat unconventional way of displaying the time for KUDOKE 3:

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While the minutes are "classically" indicated by the large blued steel hand above the dial ring sitting at the top, the hour indication is placed on an attached plate divided into three sections on the dial level below.

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The hour is indicated with the help of a hand that has three arms of different lengths and runs between the two dials. When one arm of the hand reaches the end of the hour scale, the next longer or shorter arm appears at the beginning of the next hour scale. Hours 2, 6 and 10 are then shown twice on different scales before the current hand arm moves on. Simple yet unique.

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But as so often in life, it's the details what gives it that extra something. Thus, the infinity sign as symbol of the HANDwerk collection can also be found in this model. In addition to being integrated into the tip of the minute hand, it has also been printed on the minute ring at the position of 60, where it connects the end and the beginning of each hour. The three-arm hour hand takes this very symbol and reverses it. If an infinity symbol were placed next to these "finite" hands, they would be compatible - like Yin and Yang.

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The rhodinized upper dial with the balancing logo plate matches the hour plate on the silver-plated dial below with its gently curved wave shape. It is mounted on the lower dial together with the minute ring by four screws, which also represent the minute indicators 10, 20, 40 and

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1.    The different levels and tasteful coloring give the dial of the watch an impressive depth. Diamond edges on hour plate, logo plate as well as minute chapter ring offer interesting possibilities for playing with light.

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As with previous models, the understated 39 mm stainless steel case with classic onion crown and 10.3 mm case height provides an appropriate setting for this classic yet extravagant watch, the heart of which, KALIBER 1, is exposed through the sapphire crystal case back.

We look forward to meeting you in Geneva!

(L’ice Bergues Exhibition Centre, Place des Bergues 3 / from 2 to 11 pm)

Kaliber 1

With his own movement first presented in 2018 Stefan Kudoke has fullfilled a dream. While making a name as a creator of exceptional, handskeletonized and –engraved artistic watches before, the development of an own Kaliber has tempted him for some time.

Valuable impulses were provided by the old Masters – in particular those of the German-English traditional handcraft of precision watchmaking.

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"During the development of Kaliber 1. I got inspired by the design of historical English pocket watches whose use of forms I deliberately incorporated into my movement. Ages ago I bought an old English pocket watch movement, that lay unused in a drawer for a long time. One day it fell into my hands again – just as the idea of an own movement began to take shape." 

As with his skeleton models, Stefan Kudoke sets great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special reaming technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by hand exclusively.

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Stefan Kudoke

„More than 15 years ago, I said to my wife, 'I have a crazy idea: I will manufacture my own wat-ches!'“ At that time, Stefan Kudoke was a student who already had finished his master-watchmaker's degree and had worked at renowned brands like Glashütte Original, Breguet, and Blancpain be-fore.

With the founding of his eponymous brand in 2008, Stefan pursued his dream full-time and made a name for himself as a creator of exceptionally artistic hand-skeletonized and hand-engraved timepieces among his KUNSTwerk collection. Of the emergence of his second collection, the HANDwerk line, Stefan explained, "After more than 10 years, I refined my skeletonizing skills to their utmost, and I found myself in a position where I wanted to develop my watchmaking skills further. To use old techniques and keep the practical know-how of traditional watchmaking alive has always been very important to me." And he brought this to fruition with the first two models of his new collection: KUDOKE 1 & 2.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

With his first own movement, Stefan has fulfilled his dream. Valuable lessons were drawn from the old masters, specifically those of the German-English traditional handcraft of precision watchma-king. "During the development of the Kaliber 1, I was inspired by the design of historical English pocket watches whose use of forms I incorporated into my movement. Ages ago I bought an old English pocket watch movement that lay unused in a drawer for a long time. One day it fell into my hands again, just as the idea of Kaliber 1 began to take shape."

As with his skeleton models, Stefan Kudoke sets great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special grinding technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by hand exclusively. This is how handcrafted pieces of art are created - in small volumes and with great care and attention to detail.

[Stefan Kudoke, master watchmaker]

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HANDwerk

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Model: KUDOKE 3 

Case
Diameter: 39mm, H: 10.3mm
Stainless Steel, completely polished/ 
18 ct Rose Gold (5N) on special order with brushed flanks and case-back
Fluted onion crown
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback
Water resistance:  5 ATM/50m
Dial
Frosted two-part dial, silvered/ rhodinized, with rhodinized chapter ring on top dial and plate to
indicate hours in three sections on dial below
Steel hands tempered blue, minute hand with infinity symbol, three-arm hour hand
Movement
    In-house Kaliber 1 manual winding
    W: 30mm, H: 4.30mm
    18 jewels
    28,800 vib/h (4Hz)
    46 hours power reserve
    Frosted hand-finish of wheel bridge
    Handengraved balance cock with infinity symbol

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Strap
Leather or Alcantara strap
Buckle stainless steel / 18 ct Rose Gold on special order/ electively folding clasp stainless steel

🔰Available in stainless steel as well as 18 ct Rose Gold on special order.
For Kaliber 1 customization options are available like for the other models of the HANDwerk series.

🔴 Price:  RRP excluding VAT: 9,350 EUR / £ 9’800

Warranty: 2 years manufacturer warranty

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Press Release - 2023
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Kontakt: Ev Kudoke
☎️ +49 35951 347261 
📭 ev@kudoke.eu
KUDOKE UHREN,
Inhaber Stefan Kudoke,
Wilthener Weg 17a, 01904 Weifa,
Germany
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