Showing posts with label VACHERON CONSTANTIN. Show all posts
Showing posts with label VACHERON CONSTANTIN. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 13, 2025

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – OVERSEAS Grand Complication Openface Titanium Edition

VACHERON CONSTANTINOVERSEAS Grand Complication Openface 42.5mm Titanium Edition 2025

THE FIRST MINUTE REPEATER
IN THE
OVERSEAS COLLECTION

  •     Equipped with Calibre 2755 QP, the first minute-repeater Overseas model also incorporates a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon
  •     A water-resistant titanium case with revised proportions and great elegance 
  •     A contemporary aesthetic with the mechanism visible through a highly complex sapphire crystal dial

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Equipped with Calibre 2755 QP, the new Overseas Grand Complication Openface achieves a horological feat as an elegant sports watch housing a movement barely 7.9 mm thick and incorporating a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and a power reserve indicator. With its water-resistant titanium case and integrated bracelet, this grand complication model respects the technical and aesthetic codes of the Overseas collection. 

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The sapphire dial reveals the beauty of the mechanism, while rhodium-plated wheels and NAC treatment enhance its avant-garde spirit. Vacheron Constantin's attention to detail is exemplified by the meticulous care taken in the hand-finishing of the movement components.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE
PROWESS

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is the outcome of a long process to meet the challenge of integrating a grand complication mechanism into an elegant case. In addition to a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, this movement incorporates a minute repeater, a first in the collection. Generally speaking, water resistance is difficult to achieve with minute repeater calibres due to the sliding mechanism in the case-side that activates the repeater. 

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The challenge with this model was to ensure the water-resistance of the Overseas case, while adapting its lines to Calibre 2755 QP. This required a year and a half of research and development and involved a complete redesign of the caseback to create space for the minute repeater mechanism while maintaining the slender curves characteristic of Overseas watches.  With a diameter of 44.5 mm and a height of 13.1 mm, the proportions of this new Overseas case deftly balance the collection’s adventurous character with a spirit of elegance.

AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE

One of Vacheron Constantin's emblematic movements, Calibre 2755 QP benefits from developments made for the Tour de l'Île watch presented in 2005 and brings together three major horological complications. With its 602 components contained within a diameter of 33.30 mm, it incorporates a perpetual calendar with date, day, month and leap-year cycle indications. In addition to this calendar mechanism, which requires no correction before 2100 – a non-leap secular year – there is a minute repeater.  

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To govern the cadence of the repeater mechanism, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the Maison's watchmakers developed a centripetal regulator, a proprietary device that allows the hammers to be struck at the precise intervals required to obtain the correct musical sequences. Totally silent, this regulator features two centrifugal weights that act as a motor brake on the axis of rotation, smoothing the flow of energy released by the repeater spring.  

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In keeping with Vacheron Constantin's attention to detail, particular attention has been paid to the aesthetics of this governing device, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. An arc-shaped bar secures the regulator; crafted in 750/1000 gold its rounded form requires a full day of meticulous hand-polishing. Beneath it, the circular-grained inertia weights are engraved with the initials of Jean-Marc Vacheron, who founded the Maison in 1755.  

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The same high standards were applied to the finishing of the tourbillon bridges, which involved rounding the convex profile as well as tapering it towards the fixing screws, then hand-polishing each bridge to a perfect shine. Their architecture was also reviewed, particularly on the reverse side, where it has been made more open and visually lighter. This allows full appreciation of the tourbillon’s ballet, which is enhanced by the relatively slow tempo of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). 

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Commensurate with the complexity of Calibre 2755 QP, the movement finishes also include mirror-polished repeater hammers, bevelled and satin-brushed bridges, circular satin-brushed wheels, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.  

A SPORTY AND
CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC

With its grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface watch remains true to the spirit of the collection. Its sporty, contemporary character is enhanced by the transparency of the sapphire dial, which reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement. Applied to the transparent sapphire, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers appear to be floating in space, amplifying the airy aesthetic.   

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To enhance legibility and create a dynamic contrast with the grey and silver tones of the movement components, the circles surrounding each of the time and calendar indications are treated with a blue metallised finish. The surface of each metallised circle is then engraved in white with the various indications – dates, days, months, years and minutes.

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Viewed through the sapphire dial  the avant-garde spirit of the watch is highlighted by the contrast between the anthracite grey hue of the NAC galvanic treatment on the bridges and the silvery tone of the rhodium-plated wheels. The mix of finishes on the case and bracelet amplifies the contemporary aesthetic with a visually captivating play of light and reflections. On the bezel, sandblasting combines with polishing and satin-brushing – a new signature for titanium-cased models in the Overseas collection. Like the other pieces in the collection, the model's titanium bracelet, fitted with a comfort system, is interchangeable without tools and two additional straps – one in blue alligator, one in blue rubber – are offered with the watch.

QUESTIONS FOR
CHRISTIAN SELMONI, DIRECTOR
OF STYLE AND PATRIMONY

Is the openface concept new to Vacheron Constantin or is it part of the Maison’s patrimony?

Vacheron Constantin has a long tradition in this area. The Maison made a name for itself in the 1920s, at the height of the Art Deco period with some extremely elegant openface pocket watches in platinum and rock crystal. More recently, the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Openface in 2019, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface in 2021 and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface in 2023 have continued this tradition. And let's not forget the one-off pieces, like the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Rolls-Royce model and the Traditionnelle Openface models launched at Watches and Wonders 2025.

Does the openface concept present any particular aesthetic challenges?


When we create complex movements such as Calibre 2755 QP, it is only natural to want to reveal their full beauty, not just through a sapphire caseback, as is usual, but also by opening up the dial. This aesthetic, which is considered avant-garde because of its kinetic aspect, imposes its own demands. When the dial is openworked the calibre is visible from the front, so we need to apply galvanic or PVD (physical vapour deposition) surface treatments to the movement components to give them colours that fully respect the avant-garde spirit. 

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Another challenge concerns the sapphire crystal dials. As they are also used to display functions, they require delicate machining with several openings, not to mention metallisation and finishing. In this sense, the very notion of openface adds an extra level of complexity.

Does a watch as complex as this Overseas Grand Complication Openface model really have a place in a collection designed for exploration?

With the boundaries between watchmaking genres becoming increasingly blurred today, the world of horological complications is no longer confined to fragile, museum-quality timepieces – far from it. This is exactly what Vacheron Constantin is doing with the Overseas collection. Conceived as a watch with a spirit of exploration adapted to the adventures of everyday life, with useful complications such as a chronograph or dual time-zone display, the Overseas also knows how to go beyond those boundaries. 

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The collection already includes tourbillon and ultra-thin skeletonised perpetual calendar pieces that in no way detract from it – quite the contrary. Each of them is faithful to the Overseas spirit, respecting its codes while adding a new dimension to the world of complications, one of Vacheron Constantin’s great areas of expertise. The same is true of this new Overseas Grand Complication Openface. It is equipped with a complex calibre but in a form that honours the collection’s adventurous character.

Can you tell us more about the reasons for choosing this particular calibre?


We chose Calibre 2755 for this new watch because of its level of complexity, combining a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater that incorporates the latest development in regulating the striking mechanism. In developing the movement, we benefited from the research behind the creation of the Tour de l'Île, the 250th anniversary timepiece that featured 16 complications. 

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Another advantage of this calibre is its slimness for such a level of complexity – just 7.9 millimetres. What's more, the movement is modular, allowing the addition of astronomical and other functions, as illustrated by the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Bacchus watch of 2022 and the Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication presented the following year.

 =====================
TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: OVERSEAS

Model:  OVERSEAS Grand Complication Openface Titanium

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

 REFERENCE 6510V/110T-128C

MOVEMENT 
Calibre 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin  
Mechanical manual-winding  
33.9 mm diameter, 7.9 mm thick  
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)  
602 components  
45 jewels

NAC finishing

INDICATIONS

  • Hours and minutes
  • Small seconds on tourbillon
  • Minute repeater
  • Perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year)
  • Tourbillon
  • Power reserve on the back of the watch

CASE
Titanium grade 5
44.5 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height  
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
DIAL
Sapphire crystal with blue display counters
18K white gold (750/1000) hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue Super-Luminova®
18K white gold (750/1000) counter hands
BRACELET/STRAPS
Titanium grade 5, satin-finished and polished, interchangeable and with comfort-adjustment system
Two additional straps, in blue alligator and in blue rubber
One additional titanium grade 5 folding clasp, interchangeable and compatible with both additional straps

 
 🔰 Limited production

  • #VacheronConstantin
  • #OneOfNotMany
  • #OverseasTourbillon 
  • #OverseasMinuteRepeater  
  • #OverseasPerpetualCalendar
  • #GrandComplication
  • #TheQuest
  • #VC270


---------------------------------
Press Release - 2025
---------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Tuesday, April 1, 2025

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – LES CABINOTIERS Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Premiere - Unique Piece


VACHERON CONSTANTIN LES CABINOTIERS Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première Minute repeater Astronomical Perpetual Calendar Chronograph - Unique Piece 2025

A world record
A masterpiece of innovation and miniaturisation

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 he most complicated wristwatch ever made, featuring 41 complications.
A new manufacture movement, Calibre 3655 – a masterpiece of innovation and miniaturisation, incorporating five rare astronomical functions including a world premiere.
A minute repeater with Westminster chime – 7 patent applications filed.
A feat of design in the elegant and legible integration and display of functions.

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In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his first apprenticeship contract, which defined the starting point of a quest for excellence and a human adventure. To embody 270 years of technical and aesthetic mastery, the Maison has developed the most complicated wristwatch in horological history, answering its motto of "Do better if possible, and that is always possible". With 41 complications, this single-piece edition, which is the subject of 13 patent applications, is the result of eight years of research and development. A masterpiece of innovation, it incorporates five astronomical functions never previously combined in watchmaking.

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With 1521 components, the new manufacture Calibre 3655 is housed in a white gold case with a 45mm diameter and a height of just 14.99mm, a true feat of miniaturisation. Complementing the technical achievement of this watch, its refined aesthetic is designed to optimise the legibility of its many functions.

41 COMPLICATIONS, A TECHNICAL ACHIEVEMENT

Grand Complication watches have been part of Vacheron Constantin's universe since its earliest days. Throughout the Maison’s 270-year history, this technical mastery has been powerfully expressed in the field of time measurement, musical, chronographic and astronomical indications, as well as in the art of combining them.

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Since developing its first watch with a date calendar complication display at the end of the 18th century, Vacheron Constantin has continually pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, particularly in the field of astronomical complications – as illustrated by the pocket watch with 13 complications created in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. More recently, Les Cabinotiers pieces such as the Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (2017), Astronomical Striking Grand Complication – Ode to Music (2020) and Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria (2021), and The Berkley Grand Complication (2024) are distinguished not only by their aesthetics originality but also by rare combinations of astronomical complications.

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The double-sided Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première watch is part of this long tradition of timepieces dedicated to the particularities of the solar system and the fascination that they exert. With its 1521 components, 41 complications and 13 patent applications, it is an inventive creation that transcends boundaries, in terms not only of complications and innovation, but also of miniaturisation. 

  • Three readings of time

To embrace the different concepts underlying the measurement of time, Calibre 3655 was designed so that it can display civil, solar and sidereal time simultaneously, with a gear train specific to each of them.  

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Civil time – The first gear train is dedicated to the 24-hour day of civil time – the legal time used throughout the world, which is based on International Atomic Time. This is indicated on the front dial of the watch by the central hour and minute hands, complemented by the display of world time and a second time zone.

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Sidereal time – The second gear train is dedicated to sidereal time, which is displayed on the reverse side of the watch; minutes are shown on the periphery of the fixed sapphire crystal caseback while hours are displayed on a rotating disc set beneath it. With a duration of 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds, one sidereal day is the time it takes for Earth to complete a full 360° rotation when taking a fixed star in the celestial vault as a reference point. Because Earth rotates on its axis while also revolving around the sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to the given star.

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Solar time The third gear train – known as the tropical gear – is devoted to displaying the peculiarities of solar (or tropical) time. Because Earth's path around the Sun is elliptical, not circular, and since Earth's axis is inclined at 23,4° to the ecliptic (the plane of its orbit), the time taken for the Sun to pass its zenith varies throughout the year. This difference between the solar day (true) and the civil day (average) of 24 hours, varies from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times in twelve months (the equinoxes and solstices). This differential, called the equation of time, is displayed on the counter at 6 o'clock on the front dial of the watch. 

INNOVATIONS AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS 

Work on the architecture of Calibre 3655, which unites all the astronomical functions on a dedicated mechanical module barely 2.8mm thick, prompted the Maison to do further research into the display of new astronomical functions.

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  • Five rare astronomical complications

Les Cabinotiers Solaria offers five innovative astronomical complications in an unprecedented combination, including a world premiere:  

    • The position of the Sun 
    • The height of the Sun
    • The culmination of the Sun 
    • The declination of the Sun 
    • Temporal tracking of celestial objects – world premiere

Four of these complications are related to the apparent path of the Sun and are displayed on the front of the watch – one on the periphery and three on the counter at 6 o’clock. The fifth one is displayed on the reverse side of the watch. 

Position of the Sun – Located on the periphery of the dial, this indication tracks the position of the sun in the sky when the watch is correctly oriented according to the cardinal points. Shown as a small yellow circle, it is screen-printed on a rotating sapphire disc that also displays sunrise and sunset times, and the length of the day.

Height of the Sun – The second complication displays the height of the sun above the horizon, a measurement expressed in degrees of angle that oscillate between 20° and 68° and indicated by a hand on the same counter as the equation of time at 6 o'clock. 

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Culmination of the Sun – A third complication, displayed on the same counter, the culmination of the Sun refers to the time when the Sun reaches the highest point of its trajectory in the sky. Often confused with the zenith (point vertical to the observer's horizon), culmination depends on the observer's longitude. At this precise moment, we speak of solar noon, halfway between dawn and dusk.

Declination of the Sun – This ingenious indication corresponds to the angle formed between Earth's equatorial plane and an imaginary line connecting the Sun to Earth. This declination of the Sun varies according to the seasons. In the Northern Hemisphere, it gradually increases from -23.5° at the winter solstice to +23.5° at the summer solstice, a value corresponding to the tilt of Earth. Measuring zero at the equinoxes, this solar declination is displayed by a hand vis-à-vis a three-dimensional gold representation of the Sun that is integrated into the counter at 6 o'clock.

Constellations and seasons – The counter at 6 o’clock, dedicated to the particularities of the Sun's path, is also equipped with a rotating disc displaying the 13 astronomical constellations of the zodiac as well as the seasons, solstices and equinoxes.  

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TEMPORAL TRACKING OF CELESTIAL OBJECTS, A WORLD PREMIERE 
In addition to the complications related to the course of the Sun, the fifth complication integrated into Les Cabinotiers Solaria watch is linked to the split-seconds chronograph. This new complication – a world first – combines a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of the celestial vault and makes it possible to calculate the time it takes for a constellation or a given star to appear in the middle of the observer’s field of vision. 

The technical development of the chronograph mechanism is the subject of a patent application about the pivoting of the split seconds and chronographs tubes that reduces the impact of stopping the split-seconds on the amplitude of the balance wheel while reducing any vibration. 

The chronograph readings are displayed on the back of the watch, with a 60-minute counter located at 12 o'clock and a peripheral graduation of seconds. The two split-seconds chronograph hands are anchored at the centre of the dial on which is represented the celestial vault.   

On a small rotating disc at the centre of the dial, mounted on the same axis as the chronograph hands, a green triangle indicates the time needed until a selected star will be seen in the viewer’s field of vision. At this moment, on the celestial vault, the selected star will position itself in front of the green index that serves as a reference point – marked on the ellipse shaded in dark grey on the sapphire crystal disc that displays the movements of the celestial vault.  

This sapphire case back is marked with a white circle representing the celestial equator (projection of the equator onto the celestial sphere) and a yellow circle for the ecliptic (plane of Earth's orbit). The movement of the constellations is displayed in the observer’s field of vision in real time.

To operate the complication, the user visually selects a given star on the celestial chart, then activates the chronograph. When the chronograph hand reaches the green reference marker, stop the first hand but let the second hand continue until it reaches the current position of the chosen star, then stop the hand. The time (in hours) that must elapse until the user will see the chosen star in the sky is indicated by the green triangle on the small counter in the centre of the dial. The peripheral month display marked on the back crystal enables the wearer to adjust the celestial vault to reflect the Earth's position in its orbit around the Sun.

  • Perpetual calendar, Moon phases and tide measurement 

The astronomical functions are complemented by a Gregorian perpetual calendar. In a counter on the front dial at 12 o’clock, it displays all the indications – with day, month and leap years shown by a small indicator to the right of the counter. These are supplemented by digital dating according to the ISO 8601 standard, including the four-digit year shown within the counter, the week (1 to 52) on the periphery of the counter indicated by a green-tipped hand, and the day (1 to 7) in a small aperture to the left of the counter. 

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Displayed on the counter at 9 o'clock, the astronomical Moon phase, including the age of the Moon, is driven by a dedicated gear train, with an accuracy maintained for 122 years, without correction. Because all the functions of this timepiece are pushed to their most accomplished interpretation, the lunar cycle is complemented by a mareoscope with details of spring tides and neap tides – two astronomical occurrences that each occur twice a month, reinforcing or diminishing the tidal amplitude (the elevation of tidal high water above mean sea level).

  • Hours and Minutes, GMT and world time indication

The time indications also reflect Vacheron Constantin’s quest for perfection. In addition to the central hands indicating hours and minutes, a counter at 3 o’clock displays a second 24-hour time zone with day/night indication. And, in line with the technicality of Calibre 3655, this mechanism is supplemented by a world time indication (according to standard wintertime – GMT zero) through a rotating disc bearing the names of the cities representing the 24 time zones. 

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Adjustment in increments of one hour or one city is done by a single corrector set in the case side. To save space within the mechanism, the adjustment is achieved not via a clutch, as is usual, but by a differential. This technical development is one of the 13 patent applications filed for Calibre 3655. 

AN INNOVATIVE CHIMING MECHANISM 
Accounting for 7 of the 13 patent applications filed, the Westminster minute repeater mechanism is integrated into the base movement along with the chronograph mechanism and tourbillon regulator. One of the first challenges was to accommodate a chiming mechanism without compromising the thinness of the calibre – especially as the choice fell on a Westminster carillon, the most sophisticated of the musical sequences, involving four gongs and four hammers.

The second challenge was to ensure the sound quality of the repeater’s chimes. Because a multiplicity of movement components absorbs some of the sound vibrations, the more "cluttered" a box is, the less resonant the sound will be. 

The result of extensive research, the gongs are attached to the middle case and have been shaped with a rectangular section. This increases rigidity on the horizontal plane and thus amplifies the sound. As well as optimising resonance, this solution prevents the gongs from colliding when in operation while the watch is being worn.

However, this first solution had to be supplemented by a parallel development of the hammers. The aim was to maximise the transmission of kinetic energy at the time of strike, while minimising the rebound of the hammers. The solution was to design hammers with a new, particularly compact shape and increased mass. To increase the moment of inertia, the four hammers have been forged in steel with the addition of 18K gold on three of them. Also, to optimise the use of space, they are positioned in pairs on either side of the base plate.

Thanks to this new architecture and the developments made to the striking mechanism, which are the subject of seven patent applications, the musicality of this minute repeater is harmonious and richly sonorous. One of the patent applications is for a new selection method that allows the wearer to choose between an on-demand repeater of the hours only or the traditional hours, quarters and minutes. 

  • Miniaturisation, innovative design and sophistication of the dials

The imperative of miniaturisation has driven the entire conception, development and construction of the calibre, which is designed in two connected sections. The base movement combines the time, chronograph and chiming functions, while an additional mechanism combines all the astronomical indications.  

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Given the number of complications integrated into Calibre 3655, the connection of the two was a challenge. To resolve this, Vacheron Constantin developed an ingenious “plug and play” mounting system featuring a fast and precise connection mechanism that guarantees perfect indexing. This system, comprised of two elements manufactured with precision, enables the astronomical displays to be driven by simply juxtaposing and attaching the additional module. Two sapphire components, perfectly fitted together, facilitate optimal energy transmission and allow for repeated connection and disconnection without wear, eliminating the need for additional parts.  

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This solution makes it possible – during a watch service, for example – to disassemble the entire additional mechanism, including the dial and hands, in order to access the base movement. This ingenious "plug and play" fastening system is the subject of one of the 13 patent applications filed for the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication watch. 

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The construction of the dial is as intricate as the movement. It comprises a main plate with four counters, under which two metal discs are inserted – one bearing the cities at 3 o'clock and the astronomical signs at 6 o'clock – as well as three sapphire discs, which require machining capabilities of the utmost precision. The peripheral disc displaying sunrise and sunset times and the one indicating the sun's position measure only 0.18mm. A true feat of manufacturing and assembly. Finally, a third sapphire disc, also 0.18 mm thick, is positioned at 9 o'clock to precisely indicate Moon phases, including spring and neap tide occurrences. This disc is mounted above a metal disc that displays the tide cycle. 

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Another patented innovation designed to reduce the movement's overall dimensions is that the sunrise and sunset, equation of time, height of the Sun as well as culmination and declination of the Sun functions are managed by a two-sided monobloc multi-cam wheel system, which has reduced the height of the mechanism and increased its precision. 

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On the reverse side of the watch, the fixed sapphire crystal and the rotating disc are also very thin. The fixed disc – which in fact is the transparent caseback and is marked with the months and constellations – is just 0.6 mm thick at its edge, and the rotating disc, which display the celestial vault and the sidereal time, is barely 0.3 mm thick. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, anchored at the centre of the dial, are made of aluminium to minimise weight. 

Such fine components are not only extremely demanding in terms of manufacturing but also pose a tremendous challenge during the assembly of the movement. 

PROWESS IN MINIATURISATION 
One of the major difficulties was to house the Calibre 3655 with its 1,521 components in a reasonably sized case that would be comfortable on the wrist. This was a real challenge that required not only extreme miniaturisation but also new solutions in terms of construction. The result is rare feat of watchmaking, with the Maison succeeding in housing a calibre with 41 complications in a case measuring 45mm in diameter with a height of only 14.99mm. 

A further challenge of miniaturisation was to display such a large number of functions in a very limited space, and to incorporate into the watch case the multiple pushers and levers required to activate them.  

The watchmaker who designed the movement was also responsible for the development of the watch's case, along with a designer from the Maison. Generally, the exterior of a watch, including the case and dial, is the exclusive responsibility of the designer, whose task it is to ensure the legibility of the functions, the harmony of the shapes and the balance of the proportions. However, given the nature of this project, it was essential to entrust the technical development of the case to the person in charge of the movement. The result is an elegant case in polished 18K white gold, incorporating eight correctors, two push buttons, two selectors and an elegant slider for the minute repeater. 

AESTHETIC CHALLENGES 

The technicity of Les Cabinotiers Solaria watch required particular care not only in the finishing of the 1521 components – all of which is done by hand – but also in the display of the 41 complications. Given the concentration of complications, a major challenge was the legibility: four counters on the front, two of which display up to five complications each, and a back that combines a sky map and chronograph functions.  

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  • Legibility of displays

On the front dial of the watch, an elegant play of contrasts enhances legibility. The striking absence of traditional ornamentation creates a distinctly modern aesthetic. White alternates with black, and different shades of grey are created by a variety of finishes – sunburst, sandblasted and circular satin-polished – with white gold indexes highlighted by rhodium plating and satin finishing.  

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On the counter at 6 o'clock devoted to the solar functions, a 5mm diameter Earth dome in rhodium-plated 18K gold is highlighted by the contrast between highly polished continents with sandblasted oceans. The declination of the sun is highlighted by a polished 18K yellow gold half-sphere. 

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On the reverse side of the watch, legibility is ensured despite the restrained colour palette. The sapphire crystal caseback displays the constellations, the equatorial ellipse (grey circle), the ecliptic ellipse (yellow circle), the months, and 60-second graduations. The rotating disc displaying the celestial vault and the 24-hour scale is achieved through metallization in two shades of grey. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, which traverse the star chart, are lacquered in green and red to maximise contrast, these colours are echoed in the 72-hour power reserve indication, which is set on the periphery of the movement to save space. The resulting display is reminiscent of a gauge on a car dashboard.  

  • The art of finishing

The finishing of the components required great attention to detail, especially since the miniaturisation work carried out on the entire Calibre 3655 was pushed to the extreme, which resulted in tiny and very fine components that required exceptionally careful handling. To showcase the fascinating architecture of the movement, the decoration of the components includes nine types of finishes: 

    • Bevelling 
    • Brouillage 
    • Circling 
    • Graining 
    • Mirror polishing 
    • Matt polishing
    • Sandblasting
    • Satin polishing
    • Sunray brushing 
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Among the details, the minute repeater hammers are mirror polished; the bridges are all angled and polished as well as chamfered with a matte, satin-brushed or “brouillage” finish; the jewel sinks are chamfered and the wheels circled; The main plate is circular grained, and the barrel ratchet is sun rayed. This alternation of finishes transforms the highly technical character of Calibre 3655 into a kinetic artwork.

  =====================
TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: LES CABINOTIERS

Model: LES CABINOTIERS Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première 

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Reference  9600C/000G-231C 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Movement
Calibre 3655
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 
Mechanical manual-winding  
36 mm diameter, 10.96 mm thick  
Movement power reserve: approximately 72 hours  
3 Hz (21’600 vibrations/hour)  
1521 components  
204 jewels 
Indications
  • Time functions (6)  
  • Gregorian Perpetual calendar (8)
  • Lunar indications (3) 
  • Astronomical indications (14) 
  • Chiming functions (5) 
  • Split-seconds chronograph with 2 column-wheels (4) 
  • Additional features (1) 
Case
18K white gold  
45 mm diameter, 14.99 mm thick  
Transparent sapphire crystal case back with metallisation for the constellations
Dial
Front: metal black-coloured sunray satin-finished with circular satin-finished edge; 18K white gold hour-markers; sandblasted counters 
Earth applique: polished and sandblasted rhodium-finished 18K 3N yellow gold 
Sun sphere:18K 3N yellow gold 
Hour and minute hands: 18K white gold, sandblasted 
Back: grey-tinted sapphire crystal with celestial vault made by metallisation 
Chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands: lacquered aluminium alloy 
Strap 
Black technical calfskin leather strap with a textured effect and calfskin leather inner shell, hand-stitched, folded edges 
Buckle
18K white gold folding buckle 
Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers
model
Delivered with a corrector pen

Engravings
‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and ‘AC’ hallmark on the back bezel of the timepiece, 270th anniversary emblem on the dial 

Single-piece edition 

 LIST OF COMPLICATIONS

Time measurement (6)
    Day and night indication for reference city
    Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display)
    World time indication for 24 cities
    Second time zone day and night indication
    3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel (with high Q factor)
    Civil time display module coupled to the base movement
Gregorian Perpetual Calendar (8)

    Perpetual calendar
    Days of the week
    Date
    Months
    Year indication
    Leap-year indication
    Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)
    Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar) 
Lunar indications (3)

    Astronomical Moon phases and age of the Moon
    Tide level indicator
    Spring and neap tides indication
Astronomical indications (14)
    Indication of seasons, equinoxes & solstices
    Position of the Sun
    Sunrise time (according to the city of reference)
    Sunset time (according to the city of reference)
    Duration of the day (according to the city of reference)
    Equation of time on tropical (solar) gear
    Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference)
    Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference)
    Declination of the Sun, Three-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the Northern/Southern hemisphere
    Sidereal hours
    Sidereal minutes
    Astronomical zodiac signs
    Sky chart (according to the city of reference)
    Temporal tracking of celestial objects
Chiming complications (5)

    Minute repeater
    Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs)
    Choice of hour-only or full chime
    Crown locking system during the chiming
    Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimise transmission of the hammers' kinetic energy
Split-seconds Chronograph (4)

    Chronograph (1 column wheel)
    60-minute counter
    Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel)
    Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph
Additional feature (1)

    Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)

LIST OF PATENT APPLICATIONS


Time indications – 2 patent applications

    "Plug and play" system: ingenious system for fixing the astronomical module
    Universal time: ultra-compact system allowing local time to be dissociated from home time without a spring but thanks to a differential

Astronomical indications – 3 patent applications

    Sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, height of the Sun as well as culmination and declination of the Sun: system by multi-cam monobloc wheel to reduce the height of the mechanism and increase its precision
    Celestial vault: system for displaying the movement of the constellations in real time by means of two sapphire crystals
    Identification of celestial objects: system to indicate the number of hours it takes for a selected star to enter the user's optimal field of vision

Chronograph – 1 patent application

    Split-seconds chronograph: split-seconds insulator system offering better isochronism and reduction of vibration

Minute repeater – 7 patent applications

    Minute repeater architecture: developments to optimise the hammer size and maximise the energy transmitted to the hammers and then to the gongs for a better sound  
    Mode selector: system for selecting the striking mode on demand of the repeater, choosing between hours only or engaging the entire striking mechanism with hours, quarters and minutes

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Press Release - 2025
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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