Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Bell & Ross – BR-RS17 Renault Sport Formula One Edition















Bell &RossBR RS17 Renault Sport Formula One Edition


THREE CHRONOGRAPHS 
IN POLE POSITION

Since its foundation in 1994, Bell & Ross has helped fighter pilots keep time. Over the years, the brand has become a leading benchmark in the world of aviation. In February 2016, in its permanent quest for new universes to explore, Bell & Ross made its first foray into the racetracks by joining the highly exclusive world of Formula 1 and becoming the official watch partner of the Renault Sport Formula One Team.

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The prestigious world of motor sport shares many similarities with aviation, Bell & Ross’ first love. In both fields, engineers seek extreme performance, speed and mechanical accuracy. The collaboration with the French F1 team led to a first collection of watches named BR X1 RS16, in reference to the car unveiled that year. In 2017, Bell & Ross is strengthening its partnership by releasing a series of three new high-performance watches inspired by the steering wheel of the new Renault RS 17 F1 car:

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  • BR 03-94 RS17
  • BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph
  • BR X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph

The design and color codes of these high-tech timepieces allow the time to be read quickly and accurately. The principle evokes that of an F1 steering wheel, on which each piece of information is paired with a different color. This enables the driver to recognize them instantly, without any risk of error. The materials used – Carbone Forgé®, titanium or ceramic – are identical to those used in Grand-Prix racing cars.

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CHRONOGRAPHS DESIGNED 
LIKE AN F1 ENGINE

Designed for racing drivers, the new Bell & Ross BR-RS17 collection is made up of truly exceptional watches. Their design, inspired by Formula 1, brings together the latest technological advances and the most innovative materials used in the racing world. These quintessential sports timepieces also take the lead in terms of legibility and finishes.

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This series includes only chronograph models. This complication was invented to measure short periods of time and is considered the most important one in the race world, since it enables the performance of the vehicles on the track to be measured with great accuracy, turning these timepieces into indispensable tools for drivers and timekeepers. They have long since become a key instrument in cockpits, circuits and paddocks.

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Their mechanism is complex. It often requires a third more components than a conventional watch caliber. Highly sophisticated, their movements are similar to those of high-powered engines, the gems of technology that propel racing cars to incredible speeds.


FROM THE WHEEL TO THE WRIST

The new Bell & Ross BR-RS17 collection features a wide range of color shades. These vivid hues are found on the steering wheel of the Renault F1 single-seater. For example, the flange on the two BR X1 chronographs features the same shimmering tones as the dial wheel at the center of the F1 RS17 steering wheel. These complementary primary colors, rarely used in high-end watches, allow functions to be identified and prioritized. The time, chronograph, date, seconds and power reserve (where applicable) have each their own color. This ensures the display is exceptionally clear and easy to decipher, and read reliably at a glance.

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On the three watches, the elements relating to the chronograph complication are partially coated in “Renault” yellow. Ever since the French constructor entered F1 in 1977, its single-seaters have sported this shade.


MECHANICAL ENGINEERING TAKEN 
TO THE EXTREME

Aviation and motor racing have many points in common: both rely on innovative materials, just as the latest Bell & Ross’ collection. The case of the BR X1 is made of Carbone Forgé® and the dial of the BR 03-94 is crafted of carbon fiber, both of the models being inspired on the steering wheel of the Renault F1 RS17. This lightweight and highly resilient composite material is used in aircraft fuselages and in bodies of racing cars. It is perfectly suited for the structural components subject to extreme mechanical stress.

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The engineers at Bell & Ross have reworked this material in order to meet the quality criteria of watchmaking. They redesigned its fibers, the resin that holds them in place, and the tooling needed to create its finish. The results are perfectly watertight cases for the X1 models of impeccable quality.

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Both the aviation and automotive industries use ceramic, which is mostly used in the brakes of racing cars because it does not heat easily. The case of the BR 03 is made from this very hard material used to create components that are resistant to high temperatures. Racing car tires are made from rubber. This material, with a very powerful grip, is used on the rim of the case and the push buttons of the BR X1 ensuring an excellent handling of the timekeeping function and a greater accuracy.

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The straps are also made from innovative materials. On the BR X1, rubber is paired with carbon fiber for a very sporty look.


BR 03-94 R.S.17 
LIMITED EDITION OF 500 PIECES

This timepiece features a ceramic case designed to withstand shock and a sporty carbon fiber dial that makes it exceptionally well suited to the motor racing world. This lightweight, resilient material evokes the steering wheel of the Renault F1 car. The Start & Stop push-button of the chronograph features yellow anodized aluminum.

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This iconic color has been used since Renault first entered Formula 1. It is also found on the internal bezel that features a tachymeter scale used to calculate the speed of a car: an indispensable function for a racing driver’s watch.

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Technical specifications


Model: BR 03-94 RS17

Ref. BR0394-RS17

Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.301.
Automatic mechanical.
Functions:
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock.
Date. 
Chronograph for short time periods
30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.
Tachymeter scale on the flange.Case:
42 mm in diameter.
Carbone Forgé® .   
Metal applique Superluminova ® -filled numerals.
Metal skeleton Superluminova ® -filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Strap:
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle: pin.
Black PVD coated steel.



BR X1 R.S.17 
LIMITED EDITION OF 250 PIECES

This model can be considered an extreme variation of Bell & Ross’ iconic watch, the BR 03. It boasts all the elements that are essential to a chronograph watch designed for race drivers. Highly sophisticated, its skeleton mechanism allows its gears to be admired through the grey-tinted sapphire crystal. The “rocker” type push buttons activate the chronograph function with great accuracy. They are made from high-tech ceramic and capped with yellow rubber for an improved grip.

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The bezel features a tachymeter scale designed for calculating racing speeds. Lastly, the dial flange is split into several hour segments, each of which has a corresponding color. This color segmentation makes the measured time easier to read. The chronograph hands are yellow, the date is red, the small seconds hand is green and the hour hand, white. The latter is coated in SuperLuminova that guarantees excellent legibility, both day and night.

------------------------
Technical specifications


Model: BR X1 Skeleton RS17

Ref. BRX1-RS17

Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.313.
Automatic mechanical.   
‘X’-shaped upper bridge.
56 jewels, 28,800 vph.
Skeleton chronograph.   
Functions:
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock.
Skeleton date at 6 o’clock.
Chronograph:
30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.
Case:
45 mm in diameter.
Carbone Forgé® and ceramic with rubber inserts.   
Rocker push-buttons.
Case-back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centred on the balance.   
Dial:
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal.
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled numerals.
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Strap:
Bi-material: rubber and carbon fibre.
Buckle: pin.
Black PVD* steel finish and rubber insert.



BR X1 TOURBILLON R.S.17
LIMITED EDITION OF 20 PIECES

The hand-wound chronograph of the highest level of complication and a tourbillon make this watch an outstanding piece. This movement is considered the most impressive in Haute Horlogerie. Its flying tourbillon compensates for the detrimental effect the earth’s gravitational pull has on the mechanism and increases the accuracy of the watch. It is incredibly complex, built with miniscule pieces and housed inside a “floating” cage that is fitted on a hub but appears to float in the air.

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The chronograph function is activated by a paddle-style mono-pusher positioned to the right of the case. The key component of the system, the column wheel, coordinates the starting and stopping of the chronograph. The timer indications are red and yellow. The 4-day power reserve is shown in green, and white hands coated in SuperLuminova indicate the time. This special coating guarantees legibility, even at night.

------------------------
Technical specifications


Model: BR X1 TOURBILLON RS17

Ref. BRX1-CHTB-RS17

Movement:
Calibre BR-CAL.283.
Hand-wound flying tourbillon.
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph.
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph.
4-day power reserve.
Functions:
Hours and minutes.
Chronograph:
30-min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock.
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
Case:
45 mm in diameter.
Carbone Forgé® and ceramic with rubber inserts.
Rocker mono-pusher.
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating.
Dial:
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal.
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled indices.
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Strap:
Bi-material: rubber and carbon fibre.
Buckle: pin.
Black PVD* steel finish and rubber insert.


--------------------------------
Press release - 2017
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www.facebook.com - Bell Ross
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www.Bell&Ross.com

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

F.P.Journe – Chronometre OPTIMUM For Action Innocence – Unique Piece

F.P.Journe SOUVERAINE Chronomètre OPTIMUM For Action Innocence Platinum 40 mm – Unique Piece

The regularity of a Metronome

In 2015, the Tourbillon Souverain was adjudicated for 350’000.-CHF, i.e. 2.35 times its price
On May 10, 2017, the Chronomètre Optimum was adjudicated for 200’000.-CHF i.e. 2.35 times its price.


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F.P.Journe commited once again for Action Innocence in order to protect the dignity and security of
children on the Internet in making a unique piece of his Chronomètre Optimum in Platinum with a
specific dial at the colors of Action Innocence.

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F.P.Journe watches possess an exclusive calibre 1510 that is invented, produced, and assembled entirely in the Manufacture’s workshops in the heart of Geneva. The movement of the Centigraphe Souverain (calibre 1510), manufactured in 18K rose Gold with Côtes de Genève on bridges.

The constant-force remontoire (patent EP1528443.A1) balances the driving force applied to the escapement to make it constant. By adding an extra gear representing an independent system wound in short spurts by the mainspring, the escapement ensures the balance's isochronism. This remontoire, made of titanium for the first time, maintains its balance in different positions, for greater efficiency.

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The EBHP High-Performance Bi-axial Escapement has also been patented (patent EP11405210.3). This two-wheel direct impulse escapement functions without oil and is the only direct impulse escapement to start up on its own. But not only does it function without lubricant, it also has far greater output than the majority of escapements: 50 hours without loss of amplitude. Many dual-wheel escapements have been created in the past, the most efficient being the "natural" escapement invented by A-L. Breguet (†1823). The balance with a spiral with Phillips curve guarantees better equilibrium.

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The charity gala evening took place at the Espace Hippomène in Geneva on May 10, 2017 in
presence of numerous guests who have generously mobilized their forces for the protection of
children on the internet.

Genorosity paid during the auction animated by Hugh Edmeades, the Chronomètre Optimum was
adjudicated for CHF 200’000.-, amount entirely donated at the profit of the foundation.

---------------------------------------------------
Technical Specifications

Collection SOUVERAINE

 Model: Chronometre OPTIMUM For Action InnocenceUnique Piece

Movement
    Manuel Calibre 1510
    Manuel winding / 27 turns of crown
    18K rose gold (4N)
    Jewels: 44
    Power reserve: 70 hours
Dimensions of the Movement
   Overall diameter: 34.40 mm
   Casing-up diameter: 33.60 mm
   Overall height: 3.75 mm
   Height of winding stem: 2.395 mm
   Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm
Balance 
  Chronometric balance with inertia weight
  Hair spring with Phillips curve
  Mobile stud holder
  Free sprung
  Pinned GE stud
  Frequency: 21,600v/h (3Hz)
  Inertia: 10.10 mg x cm2
  Angle of lift: 58°
  Amplitude: 0h dial up : > 260°/ 24h dial up : > 280°
Main characteristics
  1 second remontoire at 11h, very light in Titanium and balanced
  Natural dead beat second on the back of the movement
  (EBHP) High performance Bi-axial escapement with arbor and wheels in Titanium, functioning without oil,
(inspired by that of A.L.Breguet created in the XVIII Century)
  2 mainspring barrels in parallel
  2 position crown
  Time adjustment in position 2
Indications
  •   Off centre hours and minutes
  •   Small second at 9h00
  •   Power reserve at 6h00
  •   Large dead beat second on the back
Finishes
  Circular graining on baseplate
  Geneva waves on bridges
  Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
  Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
Platinum PT 950
Diameter: 40 mm
Total height: 10.10 mm
Dial
Unique purple dial at the colors of action Innocence

Number of parts
Movement without dial: 240
Cased up with strap: 264
Jewels: 44
Strap
Alligator straps


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www.actioninnocence.org
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com

Monday, May 29, 2017

BOVET – DIMIER Récital 20 Astérium® 10-day Flying Tourbillon Edition



















BOVETDIMIER Récital 20 Astérium® 10-day Flying Tourbillon Night Sky Annual Calendar with Astronomical Gold 46mm Limited Edition


In 2016, BOVET 1822 presented the Récital 18 Shooting Star®, which made headlines for its innovative time display. The many accolades attributed to this timepiece attest to its peerless identity and accomplishments.

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BOVETDIMIER Recital 18 Shooting Star®
--------------------------------------

The Récital 20 Astérium® seamlessly continues the tradition set by its illustrious predecessor, reprising the characteristic shaped case to present an unprecedented mechanical display that showcases the volumes and decoration of the timepiece. What is more, the diptych now formed by these two timepieces takes us on a genuine philosophical journey to the edges of time and space. For with these timepieces, Pascal Raffy and the BOVET 1822 watchmakers invite us to explore the universe and the origins of time itself. While the watchmakers chose to soar above and offer a celestial view of our planet with its 24 time zones visible at a glance for the Shooting Star, they have returned to Earth for this masterpiece and lifted their eyes to the skies.

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The notions of time and space are intricately bound and inextricably linked. To observe space is to observe time: the present and the past, all the way back to our origins and to those of the universe. Since the dawn of humanity, it is from this observation that we have gleaned all our intellectual, scientific and even spiritual knowledge. Our fascination with time and space has enabled us to achieve our wildest dreams and has brought us our greatest discoveries in science, astronomy, space exploration and, of course, fine watchmaking.

Far more than just speculative investors, true collectors love time itself. Their passion extends to both time-measuring instruments and to the philosophical, universal dimension of time. It is for these aficionados that Pascal Raffy and the craftsmen at BOVET 1822 have designed, developed and manufactured the journey to the heavens that is the Récital 20 Astérium®.

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Time is defined by the position of the stars in the sky. Based on this undeniable fact, the night sky was chosen to play the ‘starring’ role in this new exceptional timepiece. Faithful to the underlying principles governing complication development at BOVET 1822, this sky map was designed to be functional, precise and intuitive all at once. With this in mind, the BOVET 1822 technicians opted to map out the stars and constellations visible from the Earth on a dome of translucent blue quartz, on which they are laser-engraved before being coated in Super-LumiNova® to create a dazzling true-to life sky. To ensure utmost realism, the highest stars in the sky are depicted at the top of the dome while the lowest stars nearer the horizon appear on the periphery of the display aperture.

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Yet, this unrivalled exactitude in time display would count for little had Pascal Raffy and his artisans not applied the same rigor to the mechanical precision of the timepiece. To this end, they devised a sidereal calendar. The duration of a complete Earthly orbit (known as a sidereal year) is 365 days, 6 hours, 9 minutes and 9.77 seconds, or an unchanging 365.25 days. For obvious reasons, the Gregorian calendar was obliged to round down the number of days in a year to 365 and to compensate for the remaining hours by adding an extra day every four years, giving us our leap years. While the Gregorian calendar is perfect for governing our everyday lives, it differs by 0.25 days per year from sidereal reality before resynchronizing every four years. The calendars usually employed in watchmaking – perpetual or otherwise – are all based on the Gregorian calendar, and the use of such a mechanism to drive a night sky results in a significant cumulative error when displaying the time.

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The night sky and the collection of sidereal indications on the Astérium® are thus governed by an annual calendar calculated on a 365.25-day cycle to reflect the real duration of one full terrestrial orbit. Thanks to this combination of display and horological exactitude, the instantaneous position of the stars in the sky is thus displayed with unrivalled precision.






While complex ingenuity went into developing the Astérium®, its mechanism and winding device are designed to be simple, intuitive and reliable, as can be seen by merely turning the timepiece over and looking through the transparent sapphire crystal covering the entire movement. It features a host of graduations linked to the astronomic indications through which a single central hand travels. This hand is driven directly by the annual calendar, and therefore performs a complete rotation once every 365.25 days. An annual calendar (dates and months) is graduated on the case-back bezel and serves to precisely regulate the night sky. Rapidly setting the annual calendar with the crown disconnects the hours and minutes hands, and enables both the position of the night sky and thus all sidereal information to be adjusted both quickly and easily. To do this, the wearer simply moves the central hand forward until it reflects the correct date before adjusting the time with the crown in its middle position. This operation takes far less time than adjusting a perpetual calendar would, and does not require a corrector. The same hand also travels along a graduation indicating the signs of the zodiac, symbolized by the constellations in front of which the sun appears throughout the year – hence the delicately hand-engraved sun that is riveted to the part of the hand that passes over this section. The seasons are also indicated further inside the timepiece, as are the solstices and equinoxes.

Returning to the front of the timepiece unveils some new additional indications. The lower left- and right-hand sections of the night sky overlook two double hemispheric indicators, while on the left, an hemispheric precision moon phase lingers above the equation of time indicator.

The duration of the true solar day – which corresponds to the exact interval of time between two passages of the sun at its zenith at an identical given point – varies throughout the year. In fact, the Earth takes exactly and consistently 23 hours and 56 minutes to rotate 360° on its own axis. But depending on the Earth’s position in its orbital ellipse, the sun will appear either earlier or later at the zenith at this identical point relative to the average 24-hour solar day.


The following diagram represents a situation in which the sun is late compared to the average solar day:

  • 1 to 2 = 360° = 23 hrs 56 mins
  • 1 to 3 = true solar day = > 24 hrs
  • The sun is late






















Depending on the Earth’s position in its orbital ellipse, two periods in which the sun is late will therefore be interrupted by two periods in which the sun is early in relation to our average solar day, as is demonstrated by the following equation of time curve:


















It is precisely the curve in this picture that the equation of time hand indicates on the Astérium®. Of course, for greater accuracy and precision, this is also driven by the annual calendar rather than a usual perpetual calendar.

On the lower right-hand section of the night sky is a double hemispheric indicator positioned symmetrically opposite the moon phase and equation of time displays. This shows the power reserve and its ten days of autonomy via an internal dome that evolves beneath a fixed hour-marker. The retrograde minutes hand is positioned above it and displayed on the periphery.

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In accordance with astral time, the hours pass concentrically across the night sky on a 24-hour dial that is positioned beneath the night sky and visible through the transparent quartz. To ensure intuitive use and optimal legibility, the hours hand has been designed to execute three functions simultaneously: it indicates the time, points to the north to facilitate map-reading, and carries the elliptical window characteristic of the night sky. Following the curves of the sapphire dome, this triple hand alone symbolizes the Manufacture’s truly diverse range of skills. From its development and its many delicate hand-crafted decorative flourishes to the hi-tech virtuosity that went into its machining, the creation of this hand is a concentration of technical feats all masterfully realized by the BOVET 1822 artisans.

Finally, the seconds hand – indicating the base unit by which the precision of all time measurements is judged – is driven by the patented double face flying tourbillon.

Despite its complexity, setting this timepiece is as quick and easy as for a timepiece with a simple calendar mechanism. The same applies when determining the position of the stars in the sky. To do this, simply point the arrow of the sky map hand northwards. The ellipse opened by this sky map hand outlines the part of the sky that is visible from the wearer’s position at the moment of observation, assuming that the observer is positioned in the center of the elliptical window and enjoys a 360° view.

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Whatever the field, the very essence of art lies in an artist’s ability to simplify something that is inherently complex. In this sense, BOVET 1822 watchmakers have demonstrated true artistry in the Astérium®. Once again, by building on their exceptional experience and infusing their work with cutting-edge research, they have driven back the boundaries of perfection.

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A single barrel regulates the energy of the timepiece and maintains the oscillations of the balance wheel at 18,000 vph for an autonomy of 10 days. This power reserve remains entirely unaffected by the many indications and the technical intricacy of their displays. The moon phase and power reserve domes, as well as the quartz night sky dome, are adjusted by patented variable micrometric bearing-blocks composed of ruby runners. This ingenious mechanism is extremely energy-efficient and has already proven its worth in the movement of the Récital 18 Shooting Star®.

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The patented double face tourbillon which regulates the Récital 20 Astérium® is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel. The six collets distributed along the surface of the felly help refine dynamic adjustment for even better chronometry. And once completed and adjusted, each balance wheel is carefully selected and paired with the balance-spring with which it will form the best possible pairing. Through their perfectly mastered manufacture of traditional balance wheel and balance-springs, BOVET 1822 watchmakers continue to constantly redefine the boundaries of isochronism and chronometry. The three arches on the bridge of the titanium carriage – all rounded-off and polished by hand – expertly protect the heart of the timepiece. Their design is suggestive of a Gothic vault, of a cathedral without a roof open to the universal magic of stellar mechanics.

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The layout of this side of the movement follows the inclination of the bezel that characterizes this case design. The tourbillon carriage wheel and the seconds hour-marker screwed onto it are on the same level as the plate. Two levels of bridges then fan out from the center of the tourbillon carriage. The upper bridges are screwed to the bottom level by hand-polished pillars, which ensure harmonious volumes and draw the gaze. Finally, the three domes overlook the entire movement, offering a panoramic view of time and space that is both poetic and original.

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The decor of the movement matches its ingenuity and innovative structure. For maximum elegance, the Manufacture’s engravers have chosen highly subtle and delicate chiseling to decorate the surface of the bridges and plate. The surface demonstrates all the finesse of graining and all the brilliance of a ‘bris de verre’ motif. This contrasts perfectly with the framework of polished angles tracing the contours of the bridges, and guarantees a clear reading of both the night sky and the sapphire rear dial, all the while affording the admiring observer a clear view of the movement’s architecture and decoration.

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Only sixty Astérium® movements will be manufactured across all versions, including requests for unique pieces. This figure is no accident, of course: the number sixty has underpinned geometry, geography, astronomy and the measurement of time since the dawn of science.

Collectors can choose from red gold, white gold or platinum cases, which can be customized by the Manufacture’s artisans in a tradition that has distinguished BOVET 1822 for 195 years.

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Much more than just a new timepiece, the Récital 20 Astérium® tourbillon symbolizes the universal and eternal message of time and space, and the fascinating choreography of their celestial ballet.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  DIMIER

Model: Récital 20 Astérium® 
10-Day Flying Tourbillon Night Sky Annual Calendar with Astronomical Functions

Ref. R20N001 18K Red Gold Edition



























----------------------
Ref. R20N002 18K White Gold Edition





























Limited Edition of 60 movements


CASE
Type     DIMIER
Case Material    18K red or white gold or platinum 950/1000
Diameter    46mm
Thickness (With Glasses)   18.3mm
Thickness (Without Glasses)  7.5-14.3mm
Gold Weight    73.49gr (red gold) / 76.90gr white gold)
Crown    sapphire
Water Resistance    30m
MOVEMENT
Caliber    17DM02-SKY
Type    Hand-wound
Diameter    17’’’
Frequency    18’000 vph
Power reserve    10 days
Tourbillon       1 minute, flying tourbillon
Functions   
Hours (24h), retrograde minutes, seconds on tourbillon, annual calendar, night sky,
equation of time, precision moon phase indicator, season, solstice and equinox indicator,
astrological zodiac indicator and power reserve indicator
Dial
Blue sapphire convex and transparent sapphire
STRAP
Bracelet    Full skin alligator
Buckle    18K red or white gold ardillon

PATENTS
Display mechanism with radial guidance
Double face tourbillon

---------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2017
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