SEIKO – Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver & Solar Chronograph

Seiko Prospex. 

Serious watches for serious sports

B a s e l w o r l d - 2 0 1 4
March 27
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For true watchmakers, adventure sports, whether on the sea, on land or in the sky, present
the greatest challenges of all. Since Seiko made its first diving watch in 1965, Seiko has been
exceeding the expectations of those whose sports require watches with truly professional
specifications. Now, Seiko Prospex brings together all Seiko’s sports watch expertise in one
collection.

From 1,278 timing devices in 1964 to pioneering in sports watch technology
In 1964, Seiko announced itself on the world stage of sports timing technology with a whole
new generation of timing and scoring devices that set a new standard. The multi-sport suite of
timing, scoring and display systems comprised no fewer than 1,278 devices in all. Ever since, the
challenge of sports has inspired Seiko to create new technologies, new materials, new functions
and new display systems to serve the needs of true sports enthusiasts worldwide.
In particular, Seiko pioneered several features in diver’s watches that are now widely accepted
as setting the global standard, including the ‘accordion’ or corrugated style strap, the wide arrowshaped
hands for extra legibility, and the two-piece case construction for added security. Similarly,
in aviation watches, Seiko invented the trigonometric slide rule that allows pilots to make complex
calculations in flight.
With its new Diver’s and Aviation watches, Prospex is the latest expression of this long tradition.

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The Prospex Diver’s watch
The new Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver’s uses the same double case system as the legendary 1975
model, but it does so in a modernized and stylish way. As the name Prospex implies, it has a
professional specification, with 200m water resistance, but it also has a design flair that makes it
unique, as is clear from the window in the side of the outer case through which you can see the
inner case.

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The dial is designed uniquely with legibility in mind. The professional level of the specifications
becomes clear when you study the details, the 3 dimensional hour markers, the anti-reflective
coating on the sapphire crystal and the precise and secure operation of the uni-directional bezel.
The caliber is Kinetic, the perfect technology for diving as it combines 1 second a day precision
with the certainty of Seiko’s unique no-battery-change Kinetic technology.

It is available with a steel bracelet or with a silicon strap, designed for strength, flexibility and
longevity. The Kinetic GMT Diver’s is true to the Seiko tradition, but is updated with the very latest
in design and technology.


The Prospex Aviation Solar Chronograph
The Prospex Aviation Solar Chronograph is a modern reinterpretationof a Seiko classic. In 1972, the Seiko Flight Computer set a new standard in aviation watches and began a tradition in this area that is today renewed with a solar aviation chronograph of high specifications.

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The slide rule allows calculations of distance, fuel and oil consumption and speed, while the chronograph measures elapsed time for up to 60 minutes. Powered by light alone, this remarkable watch delivers what pilots need most, complete reliability throughout their flight.

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Perfect timing and reliability on the sea, on land and in the sky
Adventure sports know no boundaries. Whether for use on the sea, on land or in the sky, the
adventure sports enthusiast will find the Prospex watch that meets the challenge and delivers
precision and reliability in even the most adverse conditions. Prospex is built to perform and built
to last. The collection is broad in the range of sports watches it includes, incorporating all Seiko’s
technologies, Kinetic, solar, quartz and mechanical, and in its price range, with models starting at
300 Euro and going up to 3,000 Euro for the 1000 meter saturation diving watch. Seiko Prospex is
Seiko’s first new mainstream Elite collection for seven years and takes its place alongside Sportura
and Velatura as an important new reference point in the world of sports watches.

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 SEIKO – Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver’s
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Technical details
Specifications: SUN019 Kinetic GMT Diver’s
・Caliber 5M85 Kinetic GMT
Powered by the movement of your body
Power reserve: Approximately 6 months
Power reserve indication at the press of a button
GMT hand with easy hour hand adjustment function
Instant-start function
Accuracy: +/-15 seconds per month (at temperatures between 5℃ and 35℃)
・Case
Diameter: 47.5mm
Stainless steel case
Water resistance : 200m Diver
・Band
Stainless steel with three-fold clasp with secure lock, push button release with extender
・Glass
Sapphire crystal
Remarks
・Recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 660
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SEIKO – Prospex Aviation Solar Chronograph
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Technical details
Specifications: SSC261 Aviation Solar Chronograph
・Caliber V175
Stopwatch up to 60 minutes in 1/5 second increments
Accuracy: +/-15 seconds per month (at temperatures between 5℃ and 35℃)
Duration of operation after fully charged: Approximately 6 months
・Case
Diameter: 46.1mm
Stainless steel case, Screw case back
Water resistance 10 Bar
・Band
Stainless steel with three-fold clasp with push button release
・Glass
Sapphire crystal
Remarks:
・Recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 610

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CHRISTOPHE CLARET – Maestoso

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – Traditional Complications Maestoso Limited Edition NEW

Maestoso
Traditional pivoted detent escapement with constant force
Art in the service of time

It possesses the majesty of masterpieces over which time holds no sway. It is the new creation by Christophe Claret; A vibrant tribute to watchmaking heritage, an ode to research and innovation. This timepiece boasts no fewer than three patents, the fruits of development conducted entirely in-house by Manufacture Claret, offering a new lease of life to the traditional pivoted detent escapement.

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Maestoso. Its name speaks for itself. Majestic and imposing, through its personality as well as its technicality. Derived from a team spirit that revels in taking on the finest challenges, no matter how much time it takes. Maestoso has written a new chapter in the history of Haute Horlogerie. And the challenge? To equip a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a perfectly stabilized position.

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It is worth reiterating that the whole watch – case, hands and all the parts of the movement, down to the balance spring – was designed, manufactured and assembled in Manufacture Claret's workshops. Maestoso is one of the few watchmaking creations today to be equipped with a cylindrical balancespring; extremely difficult to make, but the beauty in Christophe Claret’s eyes is worthy of the challenge that it entailed. True to the fine craftsmanship that the brand has always advocated, the timepiece is hand-finished in the purest Haute Horlogerie tradition. Perfection can be read in the detailsand in the technical and aesthetic challenges constantly taken on by the watchmakers in the Manufacture’s Soleil d’Or ateliers.

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This type of detent escapementfirst appeared in the 18th century, at a time when watchmakers were competing to create a time-measuring instrument of maximum precision, to be used to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea. Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, even ahead of the tourbillon, this historic escapement is traditionally equipped with a laminated gold blade spring. Christophe Claret has made sure to adhere to these specifications to the finest detail. At the time, it was found primarily in marine chronometers, mounted on gimbals to ensure an invariable position. Though it demonstrated exemplary reliability, it actually had the weakness of being particularly sensitive to lateral impacts.

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There is a considerable challenge: the slightest shock to a detent escapement can cause it to stop or even release the escape wheel and break. Another danger is overbanking, in which an external shock, or even setting the time, can cause the balance wheel to oscillate with excess amplitude, i.e. more than 360°, causing a second impulse. This can speed up the escapement wheel and disrupt timing. Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails – without resorting to the convenience of a modern, shorter detent – is a genuine gamble, pulled off via the three patents and a series of additional innovative systems.

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To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing – a patented mechanism – that distributes the load on the escapement. So it de facto absorbs the impacts by means of a spring that provides the requisite flexibility. The upper bridge, crafted from sapphire crystal, allows the intrinsic beauty of the mechanism to be fully appreciated.

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To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy.Christophe Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant force, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Thus the constant force spring, wound up by the barrel, always releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. Finally, a stop seconds, another patented device, also plays an essential role by stopping the balance when setting the time.,

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Besides these ingenious additional systems, a micrometric worm screw on the regulator, also patented, is used to regulate the timing rate. Visible at 8 o'clock, the mechanism combines performance with design. Last and not least, Maestoso is equipped with two mainspring barrels, each with two superimposed springs transmitting force to the regulatorand providing an optimal power reserve of more than 80 hours.

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And you cannot help but notice that, in addition to its precision, the mechanism blossoms, occupying all the spaceoffered inside the 44mm diameter case. In perfect harmony, Maestoso makes depth of field its best asset.Opening up the perspective, the graduated flange bears applique indexes, with the logo of the brand subtly appearing as the 12 o'clock mark. The transparency of the bridges turns the spotlight on the detent escapement and constant force mechanism.

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 The pillars sculpted in the form of ruffs, inspired by watches from the time of Louis XIV, open up a lateral view of the mechanism. The bridges are inspired by Charles X. The aesthetic coherence with Christophe Claret’s Soprano is striking. All the functional elements of the decoration, such as the gold chatons cradling the jewels, play in concert for a captivating show, masterfully orchestrated by the DTC07 caliber. The hour and minute hands, emblematic of the brand, are enhanced by a luminescent coating and fly majestically over the movement. Made from titanium and rubies, the hands echo the set jewels.

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The horological mastery of the watchmakers in the Manufacture’s Soleil d’Or ateliers brilliantly combines the traditionalknowledge and skill of Christophe Claret in the constant quest for innovation. Available in 5N red gold, anthracite PVD titanium with white gold, or anthracite PVD titanium with red gold, the watch intimately connects the past to the present through art. An art dedicated entirely to time, which speaks for itself: Art for art's sake.

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Technical Specifications

Movement

Caliber : DTC07, mechanical hand-wound
Dimensions : Diameter: 31 mm / Height: 8.60 mm (without hands)
Number of components: 301
Number of jewels: 44
Power reserve: 80+ hours / Two barrels fitted in parallel with four springs
Distinctive features: Charles X style skeletonized stepped bridges

Functions

Hour and minute display
Constant force at 4 o'clock

Case

44 mm x 52.11 x 13.59 mm

•  Reference: MTR.DTC07.030-050  

5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium (polished / satin-finished)
Black ceramic and anthracite PVD-treated hands with Super-LumiNova

• Reference: MTR.DTC07.000-020 

White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium (polished / satin-finished)
Red ruby and black PVD-treated hands with Super-LumiNova

• Reference: MTR.DTC07.060-080 

5N Red gold
Black ceramic and anthracite PVD-treated hand with Super-LumiNova

Crown
5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with black PVD-treated titanium cabochon

Water-resistant

30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)

Dial

Constant force at 4 o'clock

Bracelet/strap

Black alligator

Clasp
ADLC-treated stainless steel, 

Anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium caps, 

5N red gold Christophe Claret logo

Limited edition: 20 pieces
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TUDOR – Heritage Black Bay

TUDOR – Heritage Black Bay NEW


TUDOR PRESS KIT – BASELWORLD 2014
 

An open book on decades of deep-water adventures, steeped in the mysterious aura of a hidden bay that gradually reveals its secrets to those who venture there, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay is a long-lost treasure, returning to the light of day. 

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First presented in 2012 in an appealing version with warm colours, the following year it was awarded the “Revival” category prize by the jury of the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay returns in 2014 icy and sharp. This new version exalts the original purpose of the TUDOR Submariner tool-watches and their use on the wrists of divers serving in some of the world’s greatest navies.

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The Heritage line by TUDOR is distinguished by the unique creative process of the brand’s Style Workshop as well as an exceptional attention to detail. The very opposite of a mere re-edition, a Heritage product is the powerful result of a true temporal and stylistic encounter of past, present and future.

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The aesthetic codes that contributed to the renown of the historic models are preserved and injected with modern touches to update its iconic status. The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay embodies the pinnacle of this creative approach, since its inspiration is anchored, not in a historic model, but rather in the nearly 60 years of the brand’s emblematic divers’ watches.

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The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay derives its overall lines and its domed crystal from the brand’s first divers’ watch, the TUDOR Submariner reference 7922, launched in 1954.  (TudorCollectorsite.blogspot.com)

It also owes to its ancestor its domed dial, a feature shared by the first TUDOR Submariner models, but which had since vanished. Its imposing winding crown is a nod to a model presented in 1958 under reference 7924 and dubbed “Big Crown” by collectors.

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Its characteristic angular hands, known by connoisseurs as “Snowflakes”, were seen from 1969 to the early 1980s. These multiple references to the brand’s aesthetic heritage, combined with contemporary design elements such as the robust 41 mm steel case with a refined finish, a coloured, anodized aluminium crown tube, as well as superbly crafted interchangeable bracelets make the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay a watch with a powerful identity that vividly embodies the brand’s renewal process.

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The 2012 TUDOR Heritage Black Bay, with its black-chocolate dial, its pink-gold hands and hour markers, its creamy luminescent material and its burgundy bezel, is reminiscent of the gentle warm patina of an antique watch. It tells of the nostalgia for objects whose appeal increases over time and plays on the charm of its attractive aura.

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For this second version, TUDOR’s Style Workshop sought to convey through design details the intention governing the creation of the brand’s first divers’ watch: namely, to produce a technical and reliable divers’ tool-watch. The result is an antithetic and yet complementary TUDOR Heritage Black Bay, presented in cool colours accentuating this model’s inherent virtues of fine workmanship, finishing and precision.

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While the first version radiated gentle, soft warmth, the face of the second is icy with sharp lines infusing it with a decidedly high-tech allure. Its deep-black dial strikes a cold, marked contrast with the silvery hour markers and their white luminescent material. The silver-coloured, luminescent hands feature the same contrast as they cut across the dial with surgical precision.

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 Finally, the bezel in midnight-blue, matching the colour of the crown tube, tempers the vibrancy of the steel case, while lending an aquatic and highly functional dimension that echoes the military past of certain brand references. During the second half of the 20th century, the French Navy was equipped with TUDOR divers’ watches, which were generally blue.

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Like all models in the Heritage line, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay comes with two bracelets or straps: an adjustable black and blue fabric strap with a sophisticated weave; and the other a choice of either a midnight-blue distressed leather strap matching the bezel, or a satin-finished and polished steel bracelet. Both come with a folding clasp.

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Technical Specifications


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Reference: 792200B

Mouvement

Mechanical automatic TUDOR 2824 calibre, 

Total diameter	26 mm
Height	4.60 mm
Jewels	25
Frequency	28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve	~38 hours

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds

Case

Steel, polished and satin finish, 

41 mm Steel unidirectional rotating bezel with matt midnight blue disc 

Screw-lock crown engraved with the TUDOR rose

Blue anodised aluminium crown tube Domed sapphire crystal 

Water-resistant: 200 metres (20 bar / 660 ft)

Dial

Darkest black "Snowflake" hands and silver-toned hour-markers with ice-white luminescent coating

Bracelet/strap

Aged midnight blue leather or steel with folding clasp 

Delivered with an additional fabric strap with buckle

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Ateliers deMonaco – Tourbillon Oculus Petite Minute

Ateliers deMonaco – Grand Tourbillon Oculus Petite Minute NEW

 ATELIERS DEMONACO
Independent premium watch manufacturer based in Monaco. Inspired by the people, scenery and creative heritage of Monaco, the brand targets a new generation with Nouvelle Horlogerie by creating iconic timepieces that are derived from their passion to challenge existing conventions to leave a legacy: “We have always dreamt about making a mechanical watch movement that is the most precise in the world and will keep generations of scientists busy trying to figure out how we did it !”

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With their core belief in mind that life is not about luxury, but luxury sure is life, Ateliers deMonaco is proud to design & manufactures their watches and its movements completely in-house, while most parts are produced either by themselves or by specialized Swiss subcontractors, a guarantee for the highest quality.
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THE NEW GRAND TOURBILLON XTREME PRECISION OCULUS PETITE MINUTE, HIGHEST PRECISION TOURBILLON @ PRICELESS VALUE, FROM DEMONACO!
Five years ago, Ateliers deMonaco proudly announced the launch of its in house developed Grand Tourbillon Xtreme Precision, regulated to have a tolerance between 0-2 seconds/24H, and making it one of the most precise Tourbillons in the world!
To commemorate and celebrate this milestone, we will enhance our line-up this year with a new and visually equally impact full member in our Tourbillon family: the Grand Tourbillion Xtreme Precision Oculus Petite Minute.

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An oculus denotes a circular opening in an otherwise solid dome or wall originating out of the Byzantine and neoclassical architecture that allowed light to come through and subsequently would naturally draw the attention to this opening of light. It is also known as an “oeil de boeuf” in French or simply a “bull’s-eye“. Given the sapphire bridge holds our 60 seconds Tourbillon’s cage as the bull’s eye of the further solid and more classical looking Côtes de Geneve decorated dial, we only felt it natural to call this our Oculus!

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Furthermore, now we finalized the consolidation of our supply chain and manufacturing in our new state-ofthe- art Atelier located in Geneva Switzerland, we have been able to improve both efficiencies as well as further strengthen and safeguard all quality aspects, culminating in the label “Swiss Made” that all our timepieces will be proudly carrying as of now.

TECHNICAL HIGHLIGHTS
Ateliers deMonaco’s Oculus Petite Minute is powered by its own in-house developed and patented Xtreme Precision Tourbillon movement. This movement encapsulates an unique hybrid between the craftsmanship from the past and the precision and technology of the future, delivering one of the most accurate Tourbillon movements in the world today.


UNIQUE DESIGN FEATURES

• .Unique case design - 33 components to allow for contrasting handfinishing, blend of titanium and 18K gold with recognizable convex lines
• .In-house developed, Manufactured and patented Innovation
• .Perfect balance cage to bring gravity point of all 80 components exactly to the centre.
• .Use of Silicium and precise manufacturing methodology like LIGA and DRIE for 10 times higher accuracy, all leading to a regulation of 0 / +2 seconds per 24H for every time piece.
• .Sapphire bridge thanks to the latest laser cutting technology, enabling production while allowig for double sides anti-reflection.
• .The iconic 18K gold Rotor with unique ATELIERS DEMONACO shield, hand guilloché finishing, decorated front & back

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Pricing of the new Grand Tourbillion Extreme Precision Oculus Petite Minute starts at E 59’000 for the 43mm Ronde d’Or 18k Rose Gold and is available in Round, Square, and Jeweled versions.

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Ateliers deMonaco
Palais de la Scala
1, Avenue Henry Dunant
98000 Monaco
Telephone : +377 97975747

Elisabeth van Pappelendam, PR & Operations Manager
betty@ateliers-demonaco.com
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DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon NEW

Transparency and precision

 

The DeWitt calibre DW8028 uses age-old, recognized and highly reliable technical parameters in its construction: 18’000 A/h, a variable-inertia balance, a 44° angle escapement and 72 hours power reserve.
    

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Entirely produced in-house, this manually wound Tourbillon is equipped with a Swiss anchor escapement and a Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips terminal curve made out of an unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing, anti-magnetic alloy and sequenced at 2.5 Hz. The perfect homogeneity and incredibly precise flat rolling of the Hairspring (0,0001 mm) guarantee an extremely high precision to the mechanism.

The balance, as well as the escape wheel and the anchor are made of 18-carat yellow gold.

Architectural strength and finesse

 

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon does not intend to compete with the ultra-skinny and fragile skeletons where as much material as possible was taken out of the construction. The architecture of DeWitt’s skeleton remains deliberately strong and is therefore very well balanced with the design of the case which features 48 imperial columns. A typical feature of practically all DeWitt masterpieces.

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The carved-out main plate, a sand-brushed nickel silver base with black gold surface finishing and a yellow gold inscription of the calibre reference, is a marvellous labyrinth of curves, circles and straight lines. Meandering across the movement, the lucky observer will suddenly land on a stunning skeletonised “W” logo positioned at 9 o’clock. The play on depths, perspectives and layers is a typical feature of DeWitt designs and the Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon is no exception.

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The skeletonised “W” logo is actually duplicated on the lower part of the movement in order to offer these interesting volumes when admiring the movement from either side of the watch.

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But however robust the foundations, your eyes will inevitably be dragged deep into the movement and the captivating finesse of its ticking mechanics. You will marvel at the Tourbillon as it gracefully rotates on its axis, held in place by a long, slender and circular-grained Art Déco bridge.

An authentic piece of art

The barrel, positioned at 12 o’clock, is also skeletonised in order to reveal the interior of the motor.
The shape given to the open-worked barrel was inspired by the design of vintage car steering wheels. As the barrel wheel gently turns with the unwinding of the spring, the stems of the upper part will glide over the stems of the lower part. Yet another interesting play on layers by DeWitt.

A successful match

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon is housed in a 43 mm round case made in grade 5 titanium with blue hands or in grade 5 titanium with chocolate-brown PVD treatment. Presenting particularly comfortable proportions with redesigned lugs and slightly more discrete imperial columns displayed on its flanks, it remains instantly recognizable and true to DeWitt’s strong DNA.

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Its balanced design offers the necessary combination of character and refinement for a successful wedding with the architectural lines of the skeleton movement. The wall is decorated by four extremely precise and sharp “W” logos, displayed at the cardinal points.

 

Dewitt and its passion for exceptional

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms of the DeWitt Manufacture. Entirely hand-made, the treatment and finishing-work on this piece are of a rare quality. Case, plate, bridges, wheels and even miniature screws are all angled, polished, satin-finished and treated to perfection in the patient and meticulous hands of our watchmakers. Particularly eye-catching is the alternation of polished and satinbrushed finishing on the columns of the bezel.

Last but not least, a particularity of all watches coming out of the DeWitt Manufacture, every watch is entirely assembled, adjusted and tested by a single master watchmaker.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon 

 

Ref. T8.TH.011

 
Calibre: DW8028
Transparency and precision
The DeWitt calibre DW8028 uses age-old, recognized and highly reliable technical parameters in its construction: 18’000 A/h, a variable-inertia balance, a 44° angle escapement and 72 hours power reserve.
Entirely produced in-house, this manually wound Tourbillon is equipped with a Swiss anchor escapement and a Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips terminal curve made out of an unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing, anti-magnetic alloy and sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
The perfect homogeneity and incredibly precise flat rolling of the Hairspring (0,0001 mm) guarantee an extremely high precision to the mechanism.
The balance, as well as the escape wheel and the anchor are made of 18-carat yellow gold.

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