Saturday, November 30, 2024

MAURICE LACROIX – AIKON Automatic CERAMIC 39 MM & 42 MM

 

MAURICE LACROIXAIKON Automatic Black and White CERAMIC - 2024

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A SHOWSTOPPING PERFORMANCE

As the end of 2024 nears, Maurice Lacroix unveils the AIKON Automatic Ceramic, a real looker, offered in two sizes and executed in two contrasting hues: black and white. 

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The culmination of three years of research and development, these latest models deliver an unprecedented quality/price ratio, democratising ceramic watch ownership, while delivering an ultra-refined appearance. Moreover, Maurice Lacroix has gone further by using ‘technical ceramic’, a material that elevates the performance of ‘regular’ ceramic by doping zirconium oxide with additional oxides.

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Close attention has been paid to the case and bracelet, ensuring each surface and facet exudes excellence. In addition, each bracelet link has been designed to smoothly articulate around the wrist, delivering maximum wearer comfort. 

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Unequivocally new, these latest models perpetuate the AIKON’s reputation for nuanced details and sublime tactility. One material, two looks; how do you wish to express your urban-style?

TECHNICAL CERAMIC: A MATERIAL WITH A LASTING ALLURE

This year has seen Maurice Lacroix release several versions of the AIKON, its hugely successful urban-style watch, executed in a multitude of materials. 

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Now, to round out 2024, the Swiss company turns its gaze to ‘technical ceramic’, a scratch-resistant material that will never fade with the onset of years. Ceramic cases composed of zirconium oxide have been in existence for some time; however, Maurice Lacroix has pushed the performance envelope with the creation of technical ceramic.

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In common with conventional ceramic cases, technical ceramic is corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic, but it also represents a significant step forward in terms of durability, thermal stability and overall strength. 

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This technically advanced material involves ‘doping’ zirconium oxide with three additional oxides: hafnium oxide, yttrium oxide and aluminium oxide. This process is strictly controlled to achieve the desired result.

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Bringing the technical ceramic case and bracelet to life necessitated three years of intense research and development and presented numerous technical challenges along the way. The R&D team at Maurice Lacroix expended much time, often burning the midnight oil, to ensure that all surfaces and facets of the case and bracelet exude quality. 

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For example, the bezel with its distinctive arms, presented in relief and with a contrasting finish, proved technically challenging. Likewise, making a bracelet in technical ceramic also proved demanding as the links need to articulate, allowing the bracelet to flex as it encircles the wrist to confer optimal wearer comfort.

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During the development process, Maurice Lacroix commissioned research, talking to retailers and the public alike. Obtaining feedback, the brand sought to optimise the look and feel of its new technical ceramic models, paying close attention to the ergonomic relationship between the case, bracelet and wearer. 

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The culmination of its time-consuming efforts has led to the creation of the new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Ceramic, a unisex model offered in two sizes, 39 mm and 42 mm, each sporting a decidedly different appearance.

TECHNICAL CERAMIC: A NEW ERA

Since it was founded in 1975, Maurice Lacroix has continuously shown its unwavering desire to deliver high perceived value. 

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With the new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Ceramic, the brand from the Franches-Montagnes delivers an unprecedented quality/price ratio, bringing this alluring material within the reach of new audiences.

A LESSON IN CONTRASTS

Back in 2016, Maurice Lacroix unveiled the first AIKON, a quartz watch inspired by the CALYPSO, the former best-selling watch of the 90s

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Two years later, the company released mechanical versions of the AIKON after which the collection’s popularity grew exponentially. 

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Over the years that followed, the brand capitalised on this success, releasing different case sizes, dial colours and complications.

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Today, Maurice Lacroix explores contrast with the new AIKON Automatic Ceramic in a choice of white or black. The 42mm matt black option is stealth-like, reinforcing the urban-vibe, a night-owl that plays out after dark, while the 39mm glossy white reference looks comparatively angelic, bathing in sunlight, garnering admiring looks wherever it goes.

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Whether night or day, overt or discreet, innocent or knowing, there is an AIKON Automatic Ceramic perfectly suited to the situation, mood and wearer. Once again, Maurice Lacroix demonstrates it is a master of materials and contrasts. It’s a showstopping performance. 

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To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the automatic ML115 calibre. This movement is embellished with circular graining, snailing and Côtes de Genève motif. 

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The Clou de Paris dial of the AIKON Automatic White Ceramic opens up a new way of playing with light. The same colour as the rest of the watch, it gleams with a particular vividness, as do the polished applied hour markers and rhodium-plated hands that are coated in white Super-LumiNova. Nothing detracts from the watch’s absolute monochrome character.    

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Model: AIKON Automatic CERAMIC 39 mm & 42 mm

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Ref. AI6007-CRM72-130-7White 39 mm

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 Ref. AI6008-CRM22-330-2Black 42 mm

CASE
    DIAMETER: 39 mm / 42 mm
    MATERIAL: Ceramic
White / Black
    FINITION: Polished
    HEIGHT: 11 mm
    FRONT GLASS: Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
    CASE BACK: Open case back with sapphire glass and anti-reflective coating
    BEZEL: Bezel featuring eye-catching six “claws” design
    CROWN: Screwed crown
    WATER RESISTANCE: Water-resistant to 20 ATM
DIAL & HANDS

  • DIAL: White, lacquered
  •     HOUR MARKERS: Indexes, rhodium-plated, white super-luminova
  •     HANDS: Rhodium-plated, white super-luminova
  •     SPECIAL HANDS: Rhodium-plated second hand
  • DIAL: Black, clous de paris motif
  •     HOUR MARKERS: Indexes, black-plated, white super-luminova
  •     HANDS: Matte black-plated, white super-luminova
  •     SPECIAL HANDS: Black-plated second hand

MOVEMENT & FUNCTIONS
    MOVEMENT TYPE: Automatic
    FUNCTIONS:
    - Hours, minutes and seconds
    - Date at 3 o’clock
    Caliber: Automatic ML115
    POWER RESERVE: 38 hours
    FREQUENCY: 28'800 vph
    DECORATIONS: Rhodium-plated movement with Perlage and Colimaçon; Côtes de Genève on the rotor
    Jewels: 26
STRAP
    BRACELET/STRAP: White, Black ceramic bracelet
    Easy change system available: Yes 

 🔴Price: (incl. Swiss VAT)   $3,300.00 2.990,00 CHF  💰

Launch year     2024

 #YourTimeIsNow #MasterYourTime #PulseoftheCity

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Press release 2024
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Maurice Lacroix S. A.
Thurgauerstrasse 40
CH-8050 Zürich
Phone +41 (0)44 209 11 11
Fax +41 (0)44 209 12 52
info@mauricelacroix.com
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Friday, November 29, 2024

Philippe Dufour – Grande & Petite Sonnerie Sapphire Dial - Unique Piece

 

Philippe DufourGrande & Petite Sonnerie Sapphire Dial Two-train Minute Repeating - Unique Piece 2024

 All About Philippe Dufour’s Unique Grande & Petite Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 07

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Philippe Dufour's journey to becoming one of the most respected independent watchmakers alive was nothing short of extraordinary.

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After spending years working for revered names like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, and dedicating himself to restoring antique timepieces for auction houses, Dufour had a revelation that would ultimately redefine his path and the boundaries of modern watchmaking.

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In a field already crowded with remarkable talent and established brands, Dufour knew he had to do something distinctively special. And in 1992, he did just that, presenting the world’s first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch.

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“The value of my timepieces is in the handwork and the craftsmanship. I put a part of myself in my watches, and the owner can feel that.”
Philippe Dufour, as quoted In Watchmakers:
The Masters of Art Horology

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 Having already created five magnificent Grande and Petite Sonnerie pocket watches for Audemars Piguet between 1982 – 1988, Dufour moved to miniaturize his creation to spectacular effect. 

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But his inspiration goes beyond modern times, and like the Duality, which draws on a double escapement pocket watch made in the 1930s, the movement architecture of Dufour’s Grande and Petite Sonnerie pocket and wristwatch is based on ébauches created by Louis Elisée Piguet in the late 19th century and other watchmakers from La Vallée de Joux.

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Movement image of Louis Elisée Piguet Grande & Petite Sonnerie pocket watch made for the South American market, circa 1895. Former lot 82 of The New York Watch Auction: X, 9th June 2024.

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Indeed, this inspiration from the past drives all of Philippe Dufour’s creations and the painstaking detail he dedicates to the finishing of movements. 

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Albern G. Pguet - Le Sentier Montre-de-poche Double balance (1933 year)

That includes the parallel Geneva stripes, the sharp points on the bridges made entirely by hand, anglage with deep interior angles, black polishing on the winding click, mirror-polished bevels and countersinks, and even the gilded gears have been finished so that no visible area hasn’t been treated to the most painstaking of hand finishing treatments.

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Movement view of the present No. 7 Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch

In 1992, after three years of strenuous work, calculating tolerances, designing bridges, gears and pinions, testing chimes and functionality, Philippe Dufour presented a world premiere: a Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch in yellow gold, with grand feu enamel dial. Then, in 1999, Dufour would up the ante, so to speak, by introducing an exquisite sapphire dial option, so that the finishing of the movement is visible not only through the caseback, but the front of the dial as well.

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Despite the extremely complex movement, Dufour made the watch easy to use. The crown is wound one way for the movement and the other way for the striking mechanism. Minute repeating is activated on demand by pressing a coaxial button within the crown. The desired sonnerie mode (Grande Sonnerie - HQ, Petite Sonnerie - QO, Silent - SI, and Strike - ST) is selected by positioning the two small sliding levers on the center case band.

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An incredibly complex sonnerie system chimes the hours and quarter hours at every hour and every quarter in grande sonnerie mode, and in petite sonnerie mode, it chimes the hours and quarters only on the hour with only the quarters at the quarter hour.

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“I have no secrets as past watchmakers had. There are graveyards full of secrets and that's enough.”
Philippe Dufour 

Eight total ébauches existed, and to date, they have all been cased. Five examples are cased in white, yellow, pink gold, or platinum with grand feu enamel dials, and three examples feature sapphire crystal “open” dials to reveal the movement within. We present below, for the first time, the complete list of all Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatches created by Philippe Dufour. We are indebted to Monsieur  

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Grande and Petite Sonnerie timepieces are some of the most technically demanding watches to create. The complex sonnerie complication chimes the hours and quarters automatically, in the grand sonnerie mode at each quarter-hour, and only on the hour in the petite sonnerie mode. Dufour had already gained unparalleled expertise in crafting five such pieces for Audemars Piguet, but shrinking this intricate mechanism into a wristwatch, a format requiring the utmost precision, would push him to new heights.

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And so, after three years of design, construction, and testing, Dufour introduced the world to the first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch in 1992, encased in yellow gold and finished with an elegant grand feu enamel dial. Then, in 1999, he pushed boundaries further with a version featuring a sapphire crystal dial – a daring choice that revealed the intricate architecture of the movement not just from the back, but also through the dial, allowing the watch to speak for itself, showcasing its inner beauty from every angle.

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Eight examples of this model exist, each with its own unique features and nuances. No. 07, however, stands alone. This watch combines the early, intricate hinged hunter caseback design from the initial run with a sapphire crystal “open” dial, offering a view into the movement through the case front – a first and the only configuration of its kind.

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This design is remarkable not just for its rarity, but for the unique and modern aesthetic it brings to Dufour’s otherwise classical design language. The pink-gold, delicately applied markers stand out against the sapphire dial, with 12, 3, and 9 o’clock positions marked in a style that draws parallels to the Rolex Explorer’s layout, creating a strikingly modern look that sets this watch apart from any other Dufour creation.

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The watch's hands, each with a subtle, curvaceous shape and an arrow tip that complements the hour markers, are a departure from Dufour’s typical use of classic Breguet or sword hands. Here, Dufour has opted for something that not only enhances legibility against the exposed movement but also gives the watch a distinct, almost avant-garde touch, yet in a way that feels fully at home in a Dufour.

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Philippe Dufour’s hallmark has always been his obsessive attention to detail. This watch, like all of his works, is finished with a level of detail that is as much an homage to traditional Swiss watchmaking as it is a testament to Dufour’s exceptional talent. 

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The movement of No. 07 is decorated with parallel Geneva stripes, anglage with deep interior angles, and black-polished steel components – all applied meticulously by hand. The gilded gears, the bridges’ sharply defined edges, and even the recessed countersinks have all received his painstaking finishing techniques.

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Philippe Dufour’s Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatches are already legendary, but No. 07 – this singular piece combining the early hinged caseback architecture with the transparency of a sapphire dial – represents a once-in-a-lifetime convergence of Dufour’s design philosophies, technical prowess, and artisanal finish.

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Phillips has the honor of presenting this extraordinary watch to the public for the first time since it was sold directly by Dufour in 2016. No. 07’s provenance, having been in the possession of its original owner since it left Dufour’s workshop, only enhances its allure. It is preserved in immaculate condition, complete with its original certificate and presentation box – a tangible link to the artisan’s hands and to the heritage of traditional Swiss watchmaking.

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The impending auction of Philippe Dufour’s Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch No. 07 is nothing less than a milestone event. A watch like this stands as a trophy of modern watchmaking, a testament to what’s possible when an artist works without compromise, and a piece that embodies the legacy of one of watchmaking’s living legends.

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With this remarkable watch, Dufour’s vision and uncompromising standards are on full display, making No. 07 an ultimate prize for the world’s most distinguished collectors.   It’s this pioneering spirit that brings us to the present moment, as Dufour’s unique, one-of-a-kind Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch No. 07, an extraordinary piece housed in a white gold case with an open sapphire dial, is set to go under the hammer at Phillips in New York this December.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Manufacturer: Philippe Dufour

Year: 2016

 Case No: No. 7
Model Name: Grande & Petite Sonnerie Sapphire Dial
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 12, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Philippe Dufour pin buckle
Dimensions: 41mm Diameter
Signed: Dial, case, movement, and buckle signed.
Accessories: Accompanied by Philippe Dufour international guarantee and certificate of origin dated 8 December 2016, fitted presentation box, and outer box.

Literature: Philippe Dufour is prominently featured in Twelve Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos by Elizabeth Doerr and Ralph Baumgarten pp. 10-25 and in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking by Michael Clerizo pp. 72-91.

@PhillipsAuction  | #PhillipsAuction2024  #NewYork #WatchAuction

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www.Phillips.com
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PhilippeDufour.ch

Thursday, November 28, 2024

LOUIS ERARD x VIANNEY HALTER – Le Regulateur II Automatic Edition

 

Louis ErardVIANNEY HALTER Exceptional Le Régulateur II Automatic Limited Edition 2024

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  LE RÉGULATEUR LOUIS ERARD x VIANNEY HALTER II
DECONSTRUCTED DESIGN. BEYOND time & space.

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With their second collaboration, Louis Erard and Vianney Halter go bold, integrating Steampunk craftsmanship and the distinctive codes of Antiqua into the Régulateur. 

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The design of the Louis Erard Régulateur aligns perfectly with Halter’s unmistakable split-time subdials. The outcome: a piece pulsing with deconstructed energy. 

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This watch orbits between reality and fiction, transcending the boundaries of both time and space!

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 Watchfacts that matter  

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⦁    Steampunk roots: inspired by Halter’s Antiqua
⦁    Retro-futuristic industrial aesthetic: red-gilded rivets reminiscent of industrial machines, riveted bezel and crown  
⦁    Deconstructed aesthetic: asymmetrical counters and offset crown at 2 o’clock
⦁    Blued steel hands: a signature shared by the two watchmakers
⦁    Haute Horlogerie finishes: polished and diamond-cut angles, circular and vertical satin brushing
⦁    Raised dial elements and Halter font: distinctive style in tribute to its creator
⦁    Dark brown grained calfskin strap: vintage style
⦁    Two 178-piece limited editions
⦁    Price excl. tax CHF 4,444

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“Creating with Vianney is about friendship and defying limits. This piece is a true joint endeavor! It’s got the Steampunk rivets, the off-center dials, as well as bold, intricate details that leave nothing untouched. A watch with all the independent Haute Horlogerie codes… yet still within reach, bold enough to stand out, yet made to be worn every day. With Vianney, it all started with a lucky pocket call in a ski gondola, serendipity that led to something extraordinary.”
Manuel Emch

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Vianney’s Edge in a Louis Erard watch

Vianney Halter is no ordinary watchmaker. For over two decades, he has been defying horological conventions with bold, Steampunk-inspired designs. 

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His debut independent piece, the Antiqua (1998), set the stage for a deconstructed vision of time. Now, he’s found a brand that shares his love for breaking the rules of design and the Régulateur is a perfect reflection of that spirit.

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Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
is more than a watch: it’s a tribute to those who dare to dream and venture beyond convention. 

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A salute to Halter’s “Live Long and Prosper” mindset, this timepiece is the perfect blend of Victorian industrial aesthetics and a retro-futuristic vision.

A split-channel launch

Louis Erard’s sales approach is as unconventional as the watch itself. One edition for their e-boutique, another retail-exclusive. 

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This is how Louis Erard is turning sales into events. Stay tuned – the norms are about to be shaken up once again!

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Louis Erard x Vianney Halter:
time, redefined and ready for takeoff.

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Model:  Le Régulateur II Automatic Edition

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  Ref. 85246AA02.BVA172 - Rhodium (Red-gilt rings) Dial

Movement
Automatic regulator, Sellita caliber SW266-1,
11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, thickness: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, min. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions            HMS
Hours counter at 11 o’clock, central minutes hand, seconds counter at 5 o’clock
Case
Polished and circular satin-brushed stainless steel, 12 polished red-gilt 5N rivets around the bezel, Ø43 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug : 49.60 mm, thickness: 10.95 mm, three parts, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent caseback, water-resistant to 5 bar pressure (50 m / 165 ft), Vianney Halter signature crown with 24 red-gilt 5N rivets, caseback engraved with the inscription « Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Limited Edition 1 of 178 »
Dial    
Red-gilt 5N and circular satin-brushed with diamond-polished chamfers chapter ring & counter rings, rhodium plated base with a vertical satin-brushed finish, black transfers, Louis Erard logo at 2 o’clock and Vianney Halter logo at 8 o’clock.
Dial designed by Vianney Halter with his artistic identity
Hands   Vianney Halter signature hands in blued steel
Strap
Dark brown grained calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, black lining grained calf leather, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115 mm length

🤝 COLLABORATIONS 
Watch developed in collaboration with Massena LAB in a limited edition of 178 pieces

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Model:  Le Régulateur II Automatic Edition

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 Ref. 85246AA03.BVA172 - Red-gilt (Rhodium rings) Dial

Movement
Automatic regulator, Sellita caliber SW266-1,
11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, thickness: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, min. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions            HMS
Hours counter at 11 o’clock, central minutes hand, seconds counter at 5 o’clock
Case           
Polished and circular satin-brushed stainless steel, 12 polished red-gilt 5N rivets around the bezel, Ø43 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug : 49.60 mm, thickness: 10.95 mm, three parts, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent caseback, water-resistant to 5 bar pressure (50 m / 165 ft), Vianney Halter signature crown with 24 red-gilt 5N rivets, caseback engraved with the inscription « Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Limited Edition 1 of 178 »
Dial            
Rhodium-plated and circular satin-brushed with diamond-polished chamfers chapter ring & counter rings, red-gilt 5N base with a vertical satin-brushed finish, black transfers, Louis Erard logo at 2 o’clock and Vianney Halter logo at 8 o’clock. Dial designed by Vianney Halter with his artistic identity
Hands   Vianney Halter signature hands in blued steel
Strap        
Dark brown grained calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, black lining grained calf leather, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115 mm length

🤝 COLLABORATIONS 
Watch developed in collaboration with Massena LAB in a limited edition of 178 pieces

Entirely made and assembled in Switzerland
🔰 A limited series of 178 pieces, each at a retail  🔴PRICE of CHF 4,444, excluding VAT
Official launch at Watches & Wonders 2024

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ABOUT MASSENA LAB  

Massena LAB, founded by noted watch collector and industry veteran William Massena, is a creative horological studio that designs, develops, and produces timepieces, often in collaboration with respected watchmakers from around the world. Massena LAB exists to be a reference point of horological culture and to play an integral part in its constant evolution, using elements of style from the past to enhance the future of watchmaking.   
It aims to create and nurture a community of informed watch enthusiasts with a passion for novel timepieces from independent watchmakers. The “LAB” in Massena LAB is a combination of two words: “laboratory,” for our willingness to experiment and our embrace of new ideas, and “collaboration,” for our fruitful, long-standing relationships with our partner brands.  

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ABOUT VIANNEY HALTER

Vianney Halter was born in 1963 on the outskirts of Paris, the son of an engine driver on the French railways. He remembers being fascinated by the old machines and mechanical objects that his father brought home. Perhaps this early contact with powerful locomotives, steam engines and other measuring instruments is the reason why he was attracted to technology and mechanics.

At 14 years of age, Vianney Halter made the decision to broaden his interest in mechanics, and took the train to the capital to enrol at the École Horlogère de Paris (Paris Watchmaking School). He qualified in 1980 and spent his first ten years in the profession restoring antique watches and clocks, experience which gave him in-depth knowledge of the art of watchmaking.
 

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Self-employed since 1984, he then went on to create a variety of timepieces for well-known manufacturers including Harry Winston, Breguet, and Audemars Piguet. He has also invented and developed his own collection of wristwatches since 1998.

His designs have been regarded as avant-garde pieces and are considered to have instigated a new shift in the watchmaking world. Vianney Halter makes unusual watches in the traditional method of the master watchmakers of the past, while using singular aesthetics, his own technical patents and unique constructions. All of this is illustrated in his first model, the “Antiqua”, a perpetual calendar presented in 1998. This watch was instantly regarded as a "relic of the future", reinforcing Halter's creativity and allowing him to enter the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).

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His years as an independent watchmaker continuing the art of watchmaking and his contribution to the modern horological landscape have already earned him nine awards. He has created around ten models of wristwatches, but the high level of workmanship they demand means their production is confidential. Indeed, under 500 pieces created by Vianney Halter have been produced to this day.

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Press release - 2024
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www.instagram.com - Vianney_halter_official 

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CONTACT:
LOUIS ERARD
Rue de l’Ouest 2
CH–2340 Le Noirmont
Suisse
info@louiserard.com
+41 (0) 32 957 65 30 

Cristina Saiu, Digital Marketing Executive
+41 32 957 65 34, Cristina.Saiu@louiserard.com

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