Showing posts with label Louis Moinet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Louis Moinet. Show all posts

Friday, April 18, 2025

LOUIS MOINET – Mechanical Wonders 1816 Chronograph Titanium

 

LOUIS MOINETMechanical Wonders 1816 Chronograph Titanium - 2025

1816
The year of the world’s first chronograph

1816 was one of the great turning points in watchmaking history. It is the year in which the great watchmaker Louis Moinet completed the world’s first chronograph.

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Today, a new timepiece, the 1816, shines the spotlight onto the legacy of this masterpiece. This timepiece remains true to its original essence and is now ready to write the next chapter in its history.

"Our roots are our future! And the 1816 is proof of this. Its originality and its sheer power carry the heritage of a pioneering work," - Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO & Creative Director.

1816: The Year of the World’s First Chronograph

Louis Moinet originally designed his novel instrument to carry out his celestial observations, which required precise calculations of the speed at which the stars moved. This «thirds counter» (compteur de tierces) was the first of its kind and a testament to the genius of its creator. Indeed, it was the first chronograph ever built.   

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Louis Moinet’s brilliant creation incorporated numerous innovations, some of which would not be repeated until a century later. Today, this historic timepiece is carefully preserved in the Louis Moinet Museum in Saint-Blaise.

Reinventing Heritage: The 1816 Chronograph

A closer look at Louis Moinet’s new 1816 chronograph means taking a deep dive into over 200 years of history through a timepiece exhibiting a resolutely contemporary style. The DNA of the original timepiece, which with its sober, functional, and, for its time, avant-garde design, emerges in every detail. The aesthetic codes of the original model have been given a totally new interpretation but one that is always in keeping with the traditional codes of haute horlogerie. Let’s explore them.

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The double-gadroon case, in polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, measures 40.6 mm in diameter and is composed of 51 parts. It retains its original Directoire style semi-bassine design with a flat case middle. Two ascetic pushpieces frame the winding crown, which is decorated with the fleur-de-lys, the emblem of Bourges, Louis Moinet’s birthplace. The 1816, sober, elegant and timeless, was made to be worn on the wrist.

The slightly vaulted dial is both legible and functional. The chronograph hand is very visible and is accompanied by two totalizers — one for the hours, the other for minutes — along with a small seconds subdial. The whole is surrounded by a minute and seconds chapter divided in increments of six, recalling the original sixtieths of a second indication.

The hand-wound mechanism includes components specific to traditional watchmaking, such as an instantaneous minute counter, a column wheel, and swan-neck regulating spring.

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The grade 5 titanium bracelet integrated into the case is the very first metallic bracelet developed by the Ateliers Louis Moinet. It was named “Project BRIDGE” by the technical department for the elegant, curvilinear shape of its wide links. This truly contemporary bracelet exhibits a singular, unclassifiable design. It was conceived as a natural extension of the case. The progression of links articulates in a natural continuity, hugging the wrist while remaining perfectly balanced. Their dimension is emphasised by a satin and polished finish, creating a sculptural whole that is both fluid and ergonomic.

The whole ensemble forms a timeless haute-horlogerie timepiece. It is aimed at connoisseurs who want to wear a timepiece with strong evocative power.

A new in-house, traditionally conceived calibre for the 1816

The challenge when designing the 1816 was to preserve the quintessence of the original chronograph while integrating a movement that could meet all haute horlogerie standards. This entailed designing a fully integrated calibre, conceived from scratch, in collaboration with Concepto.

By the same token, the actual construction of the mechanism follows Louis Moinet’s avant-garde vision of the watch, with a distinct architecture for the movement and dial. Ever since, watchmaking has been driven by such aspects as functionality and mechanical elegance, aesthetics and legibility. For the 1816 timepiece, this is reflected in a calibre composed of 330 parts including 34 jewels. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It was developed exclusively for the 1816 chronograph so as to preserve the DNA of the “thirds counter,” the compteur de tierces, while adding a contemporary touch. 

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The absence of a plate on the back reveals the grand interplay of shaped parts, overlapping planes and bridges, concatenated cogs, and chronometric controls. The contrasts are striking: the white of the steel, the satin finish and brassy hue of the bridges, the blue of the fixing screws, and the deep red of the rubies.

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Watch connoisseurs wishing to have a physical connection with their timepiece will appreciate the manual winding ritual, which will ensure 48 hours of autonomy. Connoisseurs will appreciate the instantaneous minute counter, the column wheel control, and the swan-neck regulator, all witnesses to the authenticity, care and quality of the movement.

The instantaneous minute counter prevents reading errors

The jumping minute counter precisely measures short intervals of time. 

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Unlike a trailing counter, where the hand moves slowly and continuously, the jumping minute counter permits error-free reading since its hand jumps instantaneously from one gradation to the next at the sixtieth second. In other words, it displays the number of minutes elapsed directly and without scrolling. This enables time to be read off immediately. 

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The hour counter, on the other hand, works in the traditional way, displaying the time as it passes sequentially.

The column wheel, the special component of high-end chronographs

First introduced in 1862, the column wheel is a ratchet wheel with six or nine triangular teeth or columns set at right angles to each other. 

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It precisely coordinates the start, stop, and reset phases of the chronograph.

The swan-neck regulator, an ever-popular setting standard

The swan-neck regulator is a device consisting of a spring curved around the lever, which is acted upon by a micrometre screw allowing the fine adjustment of the watch’s rate. 

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It was invented and patented in 1867, and is still highly prized for its sleek, elegant shape.

Louis Moinet’s Avant-Garde Vision and the 1816 Dial

From the end of the 18th century, as watch mechanisms became more precise, master watchmakers paid increasing attention to the aesthetics and legibility of their creations. Louis Moinet was no exception. The layout of the subsidiary counters on his compteur de tierces already anticipated the modern configuration of 20th-century chronographs. It established the perfect balance between functionality and design as a genuine measurement interface.

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The contemporary version of the dial remains faithful to this functional architecture. It uses the same layout as that designed by Louis Moinet. The subsidiary dials for the small seconds and the 30-minute instantaneous totaliser are arranged horizontally on the top half of the dial on either side of the stationary central chronograph hand. They overlook the 12-hour totaliser. The composition is well balanced, with each counter featuring a satin-brushed so-called annular dial with Arabic numerals. The same finishing is used for the minute scale, which is divided into increments of six minutes punctuated with ten blackened nickel cabochons.

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Engraving has made it possible to precisely inscribe the dial markings, the name of the timepiece – 1816 -- and the name Louis Moinet, reproduced in the typography of the original creation.

The central chronograph hand, along with the counters’ hands, are out of blued steel. The hours and minutes are indicated by Louis Moinet-style openworked hands, with tips coated with SLN. Excellent readability is ensured thanks to the sharp contrast with the rhodium dial serving as a backdrop.

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The entire dial is composed of twenty-three elements, including the ten cabochons. The centre of the totalisers, the flange, and the dial have been bead blasted. True to the original, the dial plate itself has been mounted onto the watch with four blued-steel screws.

The final touch is the fleur-de-lys logo at twelve o’clock. It pays homage to the city of Bourges, where Louis Moinet was born in 1768.

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Louis Moinet was both an artist and a watchmaker. The aesthetics of the new 1816 chronograph reflect this dual talent. It is a sober, functional and powerful creation, conceived as an instrument in the service of time combining mechanical power and visual purity.

"Our sincerest thanks go to Bernard Vuilliomenet and Dominique Fléchon, whose expertise and passion have been invaluable assets in rediscovering and illuminating the history of the world’s very first chronograph, created by Louis Moinet in 1816."

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Collection:  Mechanical Wonders

Model:  1816 Chronograph Titanium

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Reference: LM-150.20.60 


CASE
Material: Polished and satin-brushed grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 40.6 mm
Thickness: 14.7 mm
Sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective treatment
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Dial
Rhodium dial
Construction : 23 parts
Finishing: bead-blasted
Markings: engraved
10 cabochons, blackened nickel
4 blued-steel screws
Counters: Satin-brushed ring, bead-blasted centre
Flange: Bead-blasted
Hours and minutes: Facetted and skeletonised, with luminescent matter
Blued-steel chronograph hand and totaliser hands
MOVEMENT
Calibre LM1816
Column-wheel chronograph
Hand-wound mechanical
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve of 48
hours
Functions/Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds
Chronograph 60-second & 30-minute & 12-hour counter
STRAP
Grade 5 titanium bracelet

  🔴 Price: on Request 💰

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Press Release - 2025
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Wednesday, March 19, 2025

LOUIS MOINET – MPULSION Titanium Onyx Tourbillon Chronograph Edition

 

LOUIS MOINETMechanical Wonders IMPULSION Titanium Onyx Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph Edition - 2025

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 The greatest show on your wrist!

Story

Abraham-Louis Breguet and Louis Moinet were close friends and key figures in watchmaking. The former invented the tourbillon, the latter the chronograph. 

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Today, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet draws on a veritable wellspring of modern creativity that has succeeded in integrating these two high complications in a new mantel, one that generates strong emotions.

The project

The idea of combining a chronograph with a tourbillon is not entirely new. What does differentiate this timepiece from previous creations is its original and bold character. The first idea was to make the chronograph mechanism entirely visible on the dial side, a world premiere, in fact. The magic of a tourbillon was then added.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The result is impressive, a remarkable spectacle and a feast for the eyes. A single pusher activates the chronograph hand, which ticks away the seconds and sails over the rotating flying tourbillon, whose off-centre cage does one revolution per minute.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

This creation was named IMPULSION TITANIUM ONYX, a word that highlights the energy that transfers life to the chronograph and the tourbillon and coalesces the two visual effects to produce a full-fledged “show” as it were.

Genesis

At the heart of the IMPULSION TITANIUM ONYX is the in-house Memoris calibre. It bears the Louis Moinet DNA, with its column wheel, classic horizontal clutch, and a single pusher. So, we made sure these characteristics would be maintained.

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However, it is easier said than done. The movement is made up of 301 parts, many of which had to be completely designed from scratch and manufactured. Incorporating the tourbillon required significant innovations, for example, in terms of energy creation:

1) The ”volte-face” double spring barrel

To ensure sufficient energy, the automatic winding system had to be replaced by a manual double-barrel winding system. 

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The system is called "volte-face" because the two barrels are arranged upside down in series. They release their energy at the same time, delivering a power reserve of ninety-six hours.

2) Technical and aesthetic outcome

The innovation is coupled with outstanding performance by the complex mechanisms. All in all, it produces beautiful mechanical art never seen before.

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The three-dimensional architecture of the two powerful mechanisms is expressed on the wrist thanks to the high-end finishing by Louis Moinet craftsmen in collaboration with our traditional partner Concepto. The watch is assembled in our own workshops in Les Breuleux, in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is signed Moinet, independent watchmaker.

A new case

The IMPULSION TITANIUM ONYX comes in a case that was custom-designed to underscore the originality of its character.

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It is the product of ingenious assembling, is composed of four distinct elements: two lateral sections, a case back, and a bezel, all made of grade 5 titanium. The case core is tinted in a deep black, echoing the onyx featured behind the tourbillon cage and along its sides. The hollowed-out lugs and the case middle are as much a part of the Moinet stylistic vocabulary as the quest for minimal weight.

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A particularly evocative detail is the curved crystal, which reveals the power of the mechanism and optimises the reading of the chronograph indications.

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As for the chronograph counters, they are disposed in such a way as to blend in smoothly and allow for rapid reading.

Limited edition

Only twelve pieces of the reference LM-114.20.50 will be released by the Louis Moinet workshop in Saint-Blaise.  

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     “The idea of combining a chronograph with a tourbillon is not entirely new. What does differentiate this timepiece from previous creations is its original and bold character. The first idea was to make the chronograph mechanism entirely visible on the dial side, a world premiere, in fact. The magic of a tourbillon was then added.
    The result is impressive, a remarkable spectacle and a feast for the eyes. A single pusher activates the chronograph hand, which ticks away the seconds and sails over the rotating flying tourbillon, whose off-centre cage does one revolution per minute.
    This creation was named IMPULSION, a word that highlights the energy that transfers life to the chronograph and the tourbillon and coalesces the two visual effects to produce a full-fledged “show” as it were.”


Jean-Marie Schaller
Owner & Creative Director

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Collection:  Mechanical Wonders

Model: IMPULSION Titanium Onyx Tourbillon Chronograph Edition

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

 Reference LM-114.40.20

CASE
Material :   Grade 5 titanium, Moinet or black.
Diameter :   42.50mm
Water resistance   30 metres
MOVEMENT
Reference LM-114.20.50
Memoris calibre Flying tourbillon Chronograph
Functions:    Hours | Minutes | Seconds | Flying tourbillon | Chronograph with 60-seconds and minutes counter
Complication:   Flying tourbillon |Mono-pusher chronograph with column wheel control
Type:    Manual winding, double spring barrel
Oscillations:  28,800 vibrations/hour
Jewels: 36
Power reserve: 96 hours
STRAP
Material: Black alligator leather with blue top stitching
Clasp: Triple-blade folding clasp with fine adjustment
Fine adjustment | Curved "Fleur de Lys"
 
🔰 Edition of ✅only 12 pieces 
 🔴 Price: on Request 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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www.LouisMoinet.com

Friday, October 18, 2024

LOUIS MOINET – Cosmic Art FUEGO NUEVO Tourbillon - Unique Piece

 

LOUIS MOINETCosmic Art FUEGO NUEVO Tourbillon Gold Edition - Unique Piece 2024

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 FUEGO NUEVO: Sun’s Rebirth
Les Ateliers Louis Moinet is unveiling a unique watch for the SIAR in Mexico:  
The FUEGO NUEVO.
This timepiece recalls the feast of the New Fire (Fuego Nuevo), a ritual that marked the rebirth of the sun and the renewal of time cycles, symbolised by the Piedra del Sol, the Sun Stone, one of the most emblematic works of Aztec art.

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For the FUEGO NUEVO, the engravings on the Piedra del Sol have been reinterpreted on an ancient meteorite, reasserting the powerful connection between cosmos and the passage of time in an especially mesmerising manner.

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I have always been fascinated by ancient civilisations, especially Mesoamerican cultures and their very advanced astronomical knowledge. They saw the cosmos as more than just a collection of stars but also as a great symbol of life’s eternal cycles.

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To reproduce this vision on the FUEGO NUEVO, I opted the Muonionalusta meteorite as a backdrop and laser engraving as the technique to reproduce the Aztec Sun Stone. As for the mechanics, the flying tourbillon was the natural choice, because its rotations reminded me of the constant renewal of time and infinity.

Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director

FUEGO NUEVO: The Sun Stone times the “New Fire”

The Piedra del Sol is a monumental sculpture of Aztec civilisation.  Carved during the reign of Emperor Axayacatl, it was created to commemorate the Festival of the New Fire in 1479


This sacred ritual, celebrated at the end of each 52-year cycle, marked the rebirth of the sun and the perpetuation of the cosmic cycles that gave rhythm to Aztec life. 

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This giant disc, which measures 3.6 metres in diameter and weighs 24 tonnes, is carved out of a block of basaltic olivine lava. 

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It is now on display at Mexico City's National Museum of Anthropology, where its magical aura draws crowds of amazed visitors.

Ancient meteorite and technology combined

In homage to the Piedra del Sol, the FUEGO NUEVO dial is made of a disc cut from one of the oldest meteorites discovered on Earth, the Muonionalusta. 

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 Formed 4.5 billion years ago, this meteorite reveals those famous, remarkable, geometric Widmanstätten patterns created inside the rock by millions of years of space travel.

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This cosmic gem has been transformed into a work of art using modern technology. 

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Producing the dial’s decoration required enormous precision, which could only be delivered by a laser with ultra-short pulses in the femtosecond range. It took a whopping 9,800 lines of sketches to reproduce the many references to Aztec cosmogony. 

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Then, to add depth and relief, the dial features three levels. A ring of aventurine adds contrast around the base, giving the whole work an air of mystery. 

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The 0.5-millimetre meteorite disc is engraved at two depths, namely 0.2 and 0.1 millimetres. The impressive three-dimensional dial perfectly represents the intersection of history, art and technology.

An horological star: the flying tourbillon

The Fuego NUEVO is equipped with the LM135 caliber designed and developed by Louis Moinet in collaboration with Concepto

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The mechanism includes a flying tourbillon with off-centre cage at six o'clock, which defies gravity in a striking and captivating way. 

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Its hand-wound mechanism is equipped with a double barrel. This particular system, known as "volte face", enables the two barrels to be arranged serially head to tail and therefore to discharge simultaneously, producing a 96-hour power reserve.

A noble case

This exceptional work of art is delicately framed by a 40 mm-diameter red-gold case with well-defined, flowing curves. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The sapphire dome, a true feat of high-tech, reveals the fascinating details of the Sun Stone engraving. The openworked lugs perfectly underscore the integration of the bracelet.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Collection:  Cosmic Art

Model:  FUEGO NUEVO Tourbillon

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO



Ref. LM-135.50.FN - 18K Red Gold - Unique Pieces

Case
Material: 18k-caratred red gold, grade 5 titanium (inner case)
Polished and satinated
Diameter: 40.7 mm
Openworked lugs
Domed sapphire crystal glass
Water resistance: 30 metres
Movement
Hand-wound movement with double barrel and flying tourbillon 
Caliber LM135
 
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Complication    Flying tourbillon
Oscillations: 28,800vibrations per hour
Rubies: 26
Power reserve: 96 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes and Flying tourbillon
Dial
Laser-engraved Muonionalusta meteorite
Aventurine
Hands: Hours, minutes: facetted and skeletonised, with luminescent material (SLN)
Strap
Material: Louisiana alligator leather | Alligator lining, hand-sewn
Clasp: Gold triple-blade folding clasp

🔰Edition Unique Pieces, Number 01/01 each

🔴 Price: on Request 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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 www.facebook.com - Louis Moinet
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www.LouisMoinet.com