Wednesday, April 17, 2024

SPEAKE-MARIN – ONE & TWO Openworked Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet Edition

SPEAKE-MARINONE & TWO Openworked Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet Titanium Edition 2024

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 THE NEW OPENWORKED TOURBILLON ULTRA-VIOLET” 
FEATURES A VIBRANT HUE INSPIRED BY THE LIGHTS OF A FUTURISTIC CITY

OPENWORKED COLLECTION

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The undisputed identity signature of the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection is the original dial, decorated with ever-changing finishes and details, which enhance the excellence and charm of the horological art. Each creation boasts an appealing three-dimensional display that endows it with a modern style. 

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The sophisticated openworked structure, evoking the imaginary architecture of elevated intersections in a futuristic city, gives the multi-layered dial an even more dynamic look. In addition, the unique geometry and arrangement of the bridges create fascinating and unique aesthetic effects. Each timepiece in the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection allows the wearer to dive into its powerful “engine” without taking it off the wrist.

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All this beauty is encased in the classic round “Piccadilly” case, a reminder of the brand’s British origins. Revamped in 2017 by renowned designer Eric Giroud, it now features a smoother and more sinuous shape than the original.  All ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collections are available in 38- and 42-mm case sizes. The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: inspiration

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The focus of the new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, both from a structural and conceptual point of view, is the Tourbillon complication, whose cage containing the regulating organ and rotating on its own axis is able to offset the negative effects of the earth’s gravity by optimising timekeeping precision. This device, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, is a little like allowing the watch to escape from the earth’s gravitational field, placing it almost outside the atmosphere and the orbit of our planet, in the sidereal space.

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The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” invites the imagination to enter a metaverse city of futuristic architecture illuminated by rays of light and fluorescent colours. Among the vibrant, bright tones, the choice of ultra-violet makes the dial’s grid of this latest creation stand out. 

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This specific, mysterious and fascinating shade surrounds and highlights the main components of the movement, such as the flying tourbillon, the off-centre micro-rotor, the power reserve indicator and the barrel, which stand out against the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate. 

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It abstracts this horological masterpiece from the ordinary and elevates it to the universe of heavenly bodies.

A UNIQUE AND FUTURISTIC STYLE

The case

The Piccadilly case of the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is crafted from grade 5 titanium. Its flat, horizontally brushed case band, recessed in relation to the polished, domed bezel and case back, gives it a sober, modern aesthetics that is immediately reminiscent of Speake Marin. The flared, grooved crown and the geometric lugs, which hold the strap attachment bars, secured by two screws, complete the harmonious appearance.

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Water-resistant to 3 ATM, it is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the see-through case back revealing the bienfacture of the exquisite calibre that powers this creation. Available in 38 mm and 42 mm cases, the timepiece is complemented by a black rubber strap fastened to the wrist with a titanium pin buckle.

A dynamic and striking 3D watch face

Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the performance of the movement is at work. As in a prestigious theatre production, where the scenography is meticulously planned, the display becomes the stage on which the main actors play their roles.

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The satin-brushed and rhodium-plated dial is multilayered, with carved microbeaded pockets which create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles angled at 45° in a vibrant ultra-violet hue obtained through positive PDV coating.

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The skilful mix of finishes, combined with the choice of a bright colour such as Ultra-Violet, allows for extraordinary light effects that emphasise the SMA05 manufacture calibre. The most striking feature at first glance is the tourbillon cage, which is characterised by the emblematic motif of the mirror-polished topping tool, the symbol of the Geneva-based Maison. 

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This is followed by other visually intriguing components such as the rhodium-plated barrel drum, symmetrical to the complication, embellished with concentric circles and engraved “One & Two Openworked - Flying Tourbillon”. Mirrored are the oscillating weight and power reserve, whose luminescent arrow indicates the elapsed power reserve when it reaches the red dot on the semi-arc. 

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The flange is finished in a circular pattern and has a minute track with light grey markers. These are highlighted at 5-minute intervals by Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow. The heart-shaped hands are also luminescent and clearly visible in all lighting conditions.

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The rhodium-plated, microbeaded bridges on the barrel and micro-rotor, with their chamfered edges, add further depth to the display.

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The end result defines this dial as a true work of art in which creative talent and technical mastery come together to express Speake Marin’s bold and passionate vision of haute horlogerie, where innovation meets savoir-faire.

The uniqueness of the mechanical movement signed by Speake Marin

The SMA05 calibre powering the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, is part of the collection of mechanical movements developed in-house by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, the Manufacture of Speake Marin

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With an automatic winding, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is distinguished by its tourbillon mechanism at 1.30 o’clock: an unusual position that stands out as unique in the watchmaking panorama due to the difficulties of avoiding the time-setting module and now a distinctive and recognised feature of the Maison.

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It is a flying tourbillon, fixed at only one point, which requires an extremely precise construction to guarantee the perfect balance of the entire device. A construction that allows the non-stop dance of the regulating organ on the dial side to be admired to the full, and also enhances its motion: the tourbillon appears to float in mid-air and performs a complete rotation on its own axis in one minute.

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If the tourbillon is an eye-catcher, it is also thanks to its harmonious and well-balanced layout, in which another iconic element of Speake Marin’s mechanical art plays a starring role: the off-centre micro-rotor, perfectly integrated into the volume of the calibre. Crafted from rhodium-plated tungsten, it is positioned symmetrically in relation to the power reserve.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   On the rear, the bevelled black rhodium-plated bridges, with their 1.5 mm Côtes de Genève finish, embrace the PVD-coated central bridge, which shows the fascinating motion of the movements’ gears.

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Since its first launch in 2020, the Openworked Tourbillon has seen several versions, always produced in limited quantities and immediately becoming the object of desire of the most demanding collectors. The emphasis on the Ultra-Violet shade which highlights this superlative movement, endows this unprecedented interpretation of the Manufacture’s tourbillon with a new personality.

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The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is a limited production of only 5 pieces with a 42 mm case and an additional 4 pieces measuring 38 mm in diameter. Availability as of 9 April 2024

Suggested retail price: CHF 79 500 (38mm), CHF 79 900 (42mm) excluding taxes

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: One & Two

Model: One&Two OPENWORKED Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet
 

References -Titanium

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38mm: 423811040
 
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42mm: 424211040
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MOVEMENT
Mechanical self-winding movement
Calibre SMA05 
Hours, Minutes, Tourbillon between 1 and 2 o’clock
72-hour power reserve between 7 and 8 o’clock
Tourbillon cage : 62 components (mobile) + 1 fixed component, 0,56gr
Casing diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm (without hands)
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
290 components
33 jewels
Screw balance-wheel
Swiss lever escapement
Power reserve: 72-hour (when fully wound)
Black rhodium-plated and microbeaded mainplate
Bridges: black rhodium-plated with bevelled edges, Côtes de Genève with 1.5mm stripes, central
openworked bridge with black PVD coating, 5N gold-plated engraving
Tungsten micro-rotor with laser-engraved concentric circle pattern
INDICATIONS
Hours Minutes. seconds on the tourbillon cage at 1:30, power reserve at 7:30
DIAL
Openworked dial
  • Multilayer satin-finished and rhodium-plated dia l, gri d wit h positive ultra-violet PVD coating, microbeaded bevelled edges, rhodium-plated microbeaded pockets
  • Luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow
  • Minutes flange with light grey Super-LumiNova indices with blue lighting at 5-minutes intervals
  • Tourbillon cage at 1:30: with topping tool-shaped bridge, rhodium-plated, mirror-polished, with bevelled profiles
  • Engraved barrel with the inscription “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” at 10:00
  • Satin finish oscillating weight with laser-engraved circles
  • Power reserve at 7:30, triangular pointer with Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow, light grey and bright red dots for elapsed autonomy indication.
CASE
New generation Piccadilly case
Grade 5 polished-brushed titanium
Diameter: 38 or 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Grooved flared crown with engraved logo
Screw-down case back
Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on dial and case back
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 metres)
STRAP
Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium pin buckle embellished the Maison’s logo.

 LIMITED EDITION    38 mm case: 4 pieces / 42 mm case: 5 pieces

🔴 Price 38 mm Titanium CHF  79,500 /42 mm Titanium CHF  79,900💰excluding taxes


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Press Release - 2024
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Madelyne Rebischung
E-mail: madelyne@speake-marin.com
Mobile: +41 (0)79 943 18 15

Wissem Bakhchi
E-mail: wissem@speake-marin.com
Mobile: +41 79 456 09 55
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33C, AVENUE DE MIREMONT,
1206 GENEVA SWITZERLAND 
Should you need additional information, feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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Tuesday, April 16, 2024

HAUTLENCE – HLXX Titanium 20th Anniversary Edition

HAUTLENCE HLXX Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes Titanium 20th Anniversary Limited Edition 2024

To know where you’re going, you must know where you come from. For independent avant-garde watchmaker HAUTLENCE, that mindset has never faltered. For 20 years, HAUTLENCE has paved the way for a new philosophy in watchmaking, one where design and mechanical kinetics take precedence over pure function. The passage of time itself is the performance, while the rest serves to enhance its dramatic effect – HAUTLENCE HLXX.

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A TV-shaped case, a jumping hours disk, and a retrograde minutes hand—these were the stars of HAUTLENCE’s first horological venture, dubbed simply the HL. 20 years later, the result of this unexpected and unprecedented combination has proven to be just as outlandish, singular, and captivating as ever. Using the original HL movement that made its debut in 2004, HAUTLENCE has redesigned the TV-shaped case as well as the dial for a special 20-piece anniversary edition. The HLXX bridges the past, present, and future of HAUTLENCE.


An evocative form

Few case shapes from the 21st century are as outstanding and immediately identifiable as HAUTLENCE’s TV-shaped case. Rectangular with rounded sides and sharply faceted corners, the TV case is instantly recognizable for its unique form. For the 20th anniversary edition of the original HL, HAUTLENCE has revisited the overall silhouette and proportions to be much closer to that of the original with a few modern upgrades. Crafted in light yet tough grade 5 titanium, the HLXX’s case measures 37.0 x 45.0 x 11.75 mm (10.5 mm without sapphire crystal), with a water resistance of 10 ATM (100 meters). 
 
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To give it a more streamlined look and feel, the case has no visible lugs. Instead, it features a quick-release system for the strap integrated directly onto the case back. The titanium deployant buckle comes with a quick-adjustment mechanism to quickly swap the black rubber cordura-effect strap without any tools.

Time-telling as a canvas

With a case shaped like a television, it’s only natural that whatever it’s showing inside is wholly engaging and mesmerizing. The HLXX takes a deconstructed approach to tell the time, where the hours and minutes occupy their own portions of the open dial with a silvery rhodium color and vertical satin-brushed surface, marking their passage in completely different ways. 
 
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The jumping hour of the HLXX is characterized by superimposed disks on the left side, where a fixed tinted sapphire crystal disk features an aperture that displays the current hour on a jumping hour disk, with Arabic hour numerals in Super-LumiNova®. The top disk with concentric lines recalls a key design element of the most recent Vagabonde series.

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Inspired by locomotives, the lever system visible from the dial side connects a snail-cam with the blued retrograde minutes hand and jumping-hour switching mechanism, allowing them to advance simultaneously at the end of each hour. Taking a cue from HAUTLENCE’s more recent creations, the curved retrograde minutes track in tinted sapphire features applied numerals crafted in Globolight®, a ceramic material infused with Super-LumiNova® that HAUTLENCE has extensively featured in its more recent creations, including the Linear and Sphere. Finally, the HLXX takes a page from the HL2 with a rotating Möbius logo as a way to show that the watch is running and that time is naturally fleeting.

HL Calibre: last of its kind

Driving this highly animated spectacle of time is the HAUTLENCE A20 caliber, a form-fitting TV-shaped manual winding movement with which HAUTLENCE began its adventures 20 years ago. The balance wheel can be seen through the jumping hour disk as well as the case back. Its single barrel provides a minimum power reserve of 40 hours. 
 
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And just because it’s unusual doesn’t make the HL any less of an “Haute Horlogerie” creation. The bridges are decorated with wide côtes-de-Genève stripes as well as beveled and polished edges. The way the bridges are shaped and separated recalls the brand’s Möbius logo. And as a finishing touch to this anniversary edition, a screwed plaque adjacent to the ratchet wheel marks its distinction as the anniversary limited edition.

The HLXX celebrates this monumental milestone for HAUTLENCE, a brand that has been at the vanguard of imaginative and creative watchmaking since 2004. The HLXX is a limited edition of 20 pieces and marks the final time that the original HL caliber will be used.

HAUTLENCE – Forging the path for avant-garde independent watchmaking since 2004.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  HLXX Series Edition

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 Reference CA20-TI00
 
Movement
Calibre A20
hand-wound movement, original HL caliber
Jumping hours and retrograde minutes
Power reserve: minimum of 72 hours
Regulating organ: 21,600
vibrations / hour a frequency of 3Hz
Number of components: 156
Number of jewels: 29

Case
Case middle, bezel, and crown: satin-finished and polished grade 5 titanium
TV-shaped titanium case
Case middle and horns: Satin-finished and polished
Dimensions of 437.0 x 45.8 x 11.75 mm / 10.9 mm without sapphire crystal
Bezel: satin-finished and polished steel with midnight blue PVD coating
Crown: Polished steel with blue PVD coating and blue rubber ring; engraved HAUTLENCE logo  
Glass: extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back: sapphire crystal engraved with “HAUTLENCE”, “10 ATM”, “Suisse”; excluding sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Dial 
Skeletonized and rhodium-plated base dial with vertical satin finishing
Jumping hours and retrograde minutes
3D Globolight® indexes
Intermediate dial: Sapphire with applied minute numerals in Globolight®
Strap
Black rubber
Buckle:
grade 5 titanium

🔰 Edition Limited edition 28 pieces

🔴Price 36'000 CHF💰

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Press Release - 2024
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Contact us for any further information:
Guillaume Tetu, CEO and Co-founder - g.tetu@hautlence.com
Caroline Büchler, Marketing & Communication Manager - c.buechler@hautlence.com
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