Tuesday, April 12, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Grande Tradition Tourbillon Calibre 948 Edition

 

Jaeger-LeCoultreMASTER® Grande Tradition Tourbillon Calibre 948 Edition 2022

 PRESENTS THE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948
WHEN THE MÉTIERS RARES® ADORN UNIVERSAL TIME

Since the 1930s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been creating timepieces able to display several time zones simultaneously. From dual-time watches to the Géographique and the remarkable Calibre 948 world timer, La Grande Maison makes time truly universal. For 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a magnificent new artistic interpretation of the Universal Time: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, embellished with great finesse by the artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier.

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  • · A new expression of the world-time complication unites artistry and technical prowess
  • · Multiple skills from the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier are brought together to create the domed, open-worked and enamelled dial – the product of 70 hours of work
  • · The Universal Tourbillon rotates in 60 seconds and makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours

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In the long history of timekeeping, time zones are relatively recent concept – but, like all measurements of time, have their origins in astronomy. The passage of our 24-hour day is based on the solar cycle, which is determined by the rotation of Earth on itself and its orbit around the Sun. Thus, as early navigators and explorers discovered, sunrise and sunset occur at different times in different places. With the development of maritime trade in the 18th century and railway travel in the 19th century, the need became clear for standardised timing – the synchronisation of clocks within a given geographical region – and for global norms to be established.

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At the International Meridian Conference in 1884, it was decided that the Greenwich Observatory in London would be the prime meridian (longitude 0°) as the standard of time reckoning around the globe. Longitudes would be calculated both east and west from Greenwich up to 180° and the world’s universal day would be the Mean Solar Day, starting and ending at midnight at Greenwich and counted east and west from there – hence the terms ante meridian (am) and post meridian (pm). These resolutions were later formalised to create the 24 major time zones, each defined by 15 degrees of longitude.

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When Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. What’s more, the Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours – the length of a mean solar day. A true expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the automatic calibre was conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture. The splendid new aesthetic expression of the world-time complication showcases La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts alongside its technical prowess.

A World of Time on the Dial

In a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement, the dial is made of several parts.

At its centre, in keeping with world-timer tradition, is a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the dial bed on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. Created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) atelier, the outline of the continents is cut from a sheet of white gold and decorated with champlevé enamel.

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Champlevé – which translates literally as ‘raised field’ – is a noble and ancient enamelling technique that was first practiced almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out a depression in the raw metal, conforming exactly to the outline of the desired image – in this case, the shapes of the continents seen from the North Pole.

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This hollow area is then filled with multiple layers of enamel – fired at very high temperatures after each layer – until it is flush with the original surface. On the completed enamel surfaces, miniature-painted details of the continents’ major landscape features have been painstakingly added, enhancing the work with even greater intrigue and refinement.

For the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the enamelling of a single dome requires 55 hours of work. Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, each dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature, requiring almost 70 hours of meticulous work altogether.

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Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial bed is a disc of vivid blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea and the lunar influence on its tides. In circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the blue oceans, spinning in 60 seconds.

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As on all classical world timers, each time zone is represented by the name of a city, arranged in a ring around the central dial. Set outside the city ring are two concentric fixed rings: a 24-hour indicator with applied numerals and rectangular indexes, and a minute track laser-engraved on a ring of blue lacquer that matches the blue oceans. Mimicking the rotation of Earth on its axis, the domed Earth map – together with the Universal Tourbillon and city ring – makes a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, always indicating the right time in each city.

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The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is very simple to read: the hour marked on the ring adjacent to the city name is the time in that city’s zone. It is equally simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.

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The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the dial. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light.

Blending art and mechanics, the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dedication to maintaining the fine balance between a passionate drive to innovate and profound respect for tradition.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: MASTER® Grande Tradition Calibre 948

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 Reference: Q52834E1 – White Gold

Case
White gold; sapphire case-back
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.13mm
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
Frequency: 28,800
Power reserve: 48
hours
Functions:
hours/minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display (24 time zones), 24-hour indication
Dial
Blue translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel
Strap
Alligator leather with deployant buckle

 Limited edition of 20 pieces


  UP TO 8 YEARS OF WARRANTY

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Press Release - 2022
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Monday, April 11, 2022

ANGELUS – CHRONODATE Red Gold & Titanium Edition

ANGELUS CHRONODATE Red Gold & Titanium Chronograph Limited Edition 2022

The evolution of an icon

Angelus is launching Chronodate, the first collection that pays tribute to its famous chronograph calibre presented 80 years ago, in 1942. The Chronodate is available in three limited series of 25 pieces whose aesthetics are inspired both by historic Angelus references and the sleek, openworked lines of its recent pieces. With its modular 42.5 mm case, the Chronodate combines red gold, titanium and carbon. Its bicompax automatic chronograph movement is encircled by a peripheral date in reference to the original model.

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The Chronodate collection presents a fusion of Angelus styles, with both the historical brand that is part of the Swiss watchmaking landscape and the technical brand with its ultra-dynamic designs of recent years. The choice of chronograph movement and peripheral date is reminiscent of the brand’s glory days and contrast with the multi-structure and multi-material exterior.

A modern case

Chronodate is presented in a 42.5 mm case. The movement sits within a container made of carbon composite, chosen for its rigidity and lightness. The chronograph’s push-pieces and the ring inserted between the case middle and the bezel are also cut from this matt black material.

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Around this container, Angelus has designed a complex case with six main components that brings the case middle and lugs into a single line and houses the bezel marked with twelve notches. The ensemble is available in red gold or titanium.

A supple structure

This modular case opens up possibilities for playing with materials. The same is true for the large-diameter crown that extends beyond its casing and features a band of rubber in its centre for easier handling. 

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The bevelled profile, alternating straight and curved lines, and the energy that it conveys contribute to the sporty credentials of the Chronodate.

Chronograph aesthetics

Angelus was a pioneering manufacturer in the development of chronograph watches from the 1940s to 1960s. They had a small diameter but the counters on the dial stood out as they were especially large and legible. In the same spirit, the displays on today’s Chronodate dials are imposing, structured and three dimensional.

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The counters and applied Arabic numerals are placed on matt dials, like frosted glass. This is a first in watchmaking, further accentuating the effect of depth and elegantly complementing the sporty case. The red gold Chronodate features a blue PVD dial while the titanium versions are available in opaline white or blue PVD. 

A momentum of movement

Inside, Angelus has installed its latest Calibre A-500. The bicompax format displays the small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. Encircling the dial, a hand sweeps over the peripheral date display. The openworked red arrowhead announces the colour theme of the secondary displays on the Chronodate: the markings on the chronograph push-pieces, the chronograph hand and its 30-minute counter hand are all finished with a touch of red lacquer.

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The 4 Hz chronograph operates using a column wheel with horizontal coupling to avoid excess thickness. The automatic self-winding mechanism functions with an oscillating weight made to a historic design, reminiscent of Angelus’s earliest triumphs.

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Technical Specifications

CHRONODATE  Collection

 Model:  Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium

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Movement
Calibre   A-500, automatic self-winding mechanism
Jewels     26
Diameter
    30.00 mm
Thickness     7.90 mm
Power reserve     60 hours
Frequency    4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Finishes  
  mainplate: sandblasted and NAC treated
    bridges: microbeaded and NAC treatment, satin-finished edges
    wheels: circular and rhodium-plated
    oscillating weight: tungsten and 18-carat red gold (5N) decoration on gold model, or tungsten decoration on titanium models
Functions    hours, minutes, bicompax chronograph, peripheral date   
Dial     

  • Red gold: blue PVD, frosted centre, gold-coloured applied details coated with white Super-LumiNova emitting a blue glow, black minute track, gold-coloured applied logo
  • Titanium & blue: blue PVD, frosted centre, rhodium-plated applied details coated with white Super-LumiNova emitting a blue glow, black minute track, rhodium-plated applied logo
  • Titanium & white: opaline white, frosted centre, black DLC applied details coated with white Super-LumiNova emitting a blue glow, black minute track, rhodium-plated applied logo

Case
Material    monobloc bezel, crown and case middle in 18-carat red gold (5N) or titanium, sub-case and push-pieces in carbon composite
Diameter    42.50 mm
Thickness    14.25 mm
Crystal     box sapphire, anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case back     box sapphire, anti-reflective treatment
Water-resistance  30 metres /3 ATM
Strap
Interchangeable strap
Material     red gold: blue rubber
    titanium & blue: blue rubber
    titanium & white: black rubber

Folding clasp    red gold: titanium plates and 18-carat red gold (5N) cover
    titanium: titanium plates and cover

Limited edition    25 pieces for each model

Reference    


Swiss retail price    red gold: CHF 42,900 incl. VAT (subject to change)
    titanium: CHF 22,900 incl. VAT (subject to change)
    

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Press Release - 2022
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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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