LAURENT FERRIER – Galet Traveller Enamel World Special Edition NEW
For this special edition, LAURENT FERRIER decided to propose
its version of the globe as it offers an enamel dial featuring the world map.
Grand feu cloisonné enamel
The outlines of the continents are formed using the technique of cloisonné: thin 18K gold wires are applied to create the shapes of the continents. Enamel is then deposited in each “cell”.
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The ancestral art of enamelling
Ever since Antiquity, enamel has been used to adorn jewellery creations. Adopted by horologists in the 15th century, enamelling earned its noble pedigree in Geneva.
Grand Feu enamelling is a difficult art to master, since the original colours are modified by successive firings in the kiln. Moreover, the dial itself is rendered more vulnerable by the extremely high temperatures to which it is subjected.
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In a first phase, the selected colours are applied with a brush in a
specific order. The dial is then fired at over 840°C, after which it
must be cooled down and cleared of any potential imperfections on its
surface. The other colours are applied layer by layer and the dial is
repeatedly fired accordingly.
Enamellists must be experts in
order to predict the evolution of the colours in the various phases.
They must also be extremely dextrous if they are to avoid damaging the
dial during the firings.
A useful complication
The
Galet Traveller helps its user get his bearings within this world time. A dual-time display is an extremely useful complication when travelling. This watch was developed with the aim of ensuring extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance, readability and performance in all circumstances – all values dear to
Laurent Ferrier.
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Positioned perfectly geometrically and delicately integrated on the left
side of the case, two oblong push-buttons are pressed to modify local
time indicated by a central hand. These two buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock
are subtly integrated into the case middle so as to follow the
harmonious curve of this solid gold “pebble”. Only a tiny notch designed
for a fingernail forms a tiny protruding edge in order to facilitate
handling. When moving from one time zone to another, the central hour
hand indicating local time may be moved forwards or backwards, in
one-hour increments, by successive presses.
Pressing the upper push-button advances the hand by one hour, while pressing the lower push-button moves it backwards, all without affect the minutes hand. On a flight from Geneva to New York, the traveller will thus simply need to press the lower push-button six times to ensure the watch is set to exact local time upon landing.
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In addition to this fast local-time adjustment, the date, appearing
in a window at 3 o’clock, is automatically modified when the hand passes
midnight, thus spontaneously adapting to transitions between the
various time zones. The window at 9 o’clock maintains the reference or
home time. Thanks to its 24-hour display, it is easy to check whether it
is day or night in one’s place of residence even from the other side of
the world.
Perfect readability
The
Galet Traveller developed by
Laurent Ferrier ensures smooth continuity in the watchmaking journey of the House. This same spirit of functionality, as well as readability and aesthetic appeal already present in the other models from the brand. The solid white gold pebble-shaped case – that has become a brand signature – recalls the pocket watches of yesteryear. The winding crown is as round and generously sized as ever, and the gold hands retain their characteristic shape « assagai ».
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The dedicated dial alternates between two aesthetic finishes: grand feu
cloisonné by champlevé enamel in the centre and circular satin-brushed
around the outside. The extremely slender hour-markers and the two
bevelled apertures ensure optimal readability - one at 3 o’clock for the
date and the other at 9 o’clock for home time, the Arabic numerals are
painted in black.
Laurent Ferrier
thereby once again proves its ability to find the perfect balance
between a strongly identifiable neoclassical design on the one hand, and
tried and tested efficiency on the other.
A finely tuned movement
The
Galet Traveller houses self-winding
Calibre LF 230.01, from the famous line of Micro-Rotor movements with natural escapement. It incorporates the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism as well as the date. This useful complication, that took a full two years to develop, is fully integrated and each part is an integral part of the global architecture of the base calibre.
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As with the previous developments,
LF Calibre 230.01 features a pawl-fitted micro-rotor unidirectional winding system, backed by a double direct-impulse natural escapement. The latter, devised by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, is now made using modern technologies that contribute to the exceptional precision of
Laurent Ferrier watches. The major distinctive feature of this natural escapement lies in the fact that two impulses are directly imparted to the balance with each oscillation. Its excellent efficiency guarantees a high amplitude for the balance operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
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Laurent Ferrier uses a silicon pallet-lever for its lightness and its self-lubricating properties, as well as escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy known for its extreme hardness, all made using LIGA technology. The main advances of these cutting-edge materials lies in the resulting perfect surface states, as well as strong resistance to both wear and corrosion.
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The micro-rotor is in engine-turned 18K gold. It is fitted with a
“silent bloc” shock-absorbing system similar to chassis mounting
rubbers. The winding device is offset and fitted on the mainplate
between two bridges, and fixed between two jewels. This reduces the
thickness of the movement and provides a clear view of the construction,
while ensuring maximum stability compared with a conventional
oscillating weight.
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This innovative horological architecture, complemented by the natural escapement, serves to achieve a one-third increase in the winding force of the micro-rotor and thus to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. Its efficiency is thus far superior to the majority of classic escapements and is above all extremely stable over the long term – an asset that significantly contributes to the exceptionally accurate rate of this chronometer certified.
The decoration and finishing of the movement are in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions. The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Traveller provides a fine view of the finesse of this workmanship. In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges and the circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished. The authenticity of the hand chamfering is perceptible in the clean cut of the interior angles that no machine can achieve and which demonstrate the authenticity of the watchmaking art as exercised by Laurent Ferrier.
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Technical Characteristics
Model: Galet Traveller Enamel World
Reference: LCF0012/GG
Movement:
- Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
- Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted
unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of
the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
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- Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance.
- Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties,
escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA
technology.
- Indications: hours, minutes, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.
- Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left
side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned
at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic
date correction.
- Stop-seconds function
- Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
- Thickness: 5,80 mm
- Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
- Power reserve: 80 hours
- 298 parts
- 44 jewels
Aesthetic characteristics
Case:•
18K/750 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold or 5N red gold
• Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
• Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
• Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
• Water-resistant to 30 metres
• “Ball-shaped” crown in
18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
Dial:
• Grand feu enamel cloisonné in the centre surrounded by circular satin-brushed motif
• “Teardrop” hour-markers in 18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
• Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
• Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands:
•
18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
• “Assegai-shaped”
Strap:
• Hand-sewn blue or brown alligator leather, Alcantara lining
• 16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in
18K/750 210Pd white gold
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Contact :
pr@laurentferrier.ch
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