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Given the acclaim for its perpetual calendar, the most legible and
ingenious on the market, H. Moser & Cie. wanted to explore this
complication further and add another calendar to its collection. In
collaboration with its partner, Agenhor SA, H. Moser & Cie.
developed the Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition,
produced in 100 pieces. This timepiece is a real technical feat,
combining the Chinese lunisolar calendar with the solar-only Gregorian
calendar and displaying the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac alongside the
moon phases, all without requiring any corrections for 12 years. It
also symbolises the union of two different cultures and measurements,
and their harmonious coexistence. The timepiece unites the sun and moon,
combining elements of the solar and lunar calendars, calculated
separately, and synchronising them. It does so with an elegant and
minimalistic aesthetic that makes the piece user-friendly to read and
operate.
People have always felt the need to measure time and to become its
master. To this end, they have used heavenly bodies to determine cycles
and calendars based on the sun, moon or both. While the Gregorian
calendar is exclusively solar, the Chinese calendar is primarily lunar,
as it tracks the cycles of the moon, but takes the sun into account at
the same time, making it more complicated. This makes it a lunisolar
calendar. Rich in cultural and traditional symbolism, it has its roots
in the observation of nature thousands of years ago, and makes it
possible to follow the rhythm of the lunar solar terms and four seasons,
so essential to Chinese agriculture and traditional culture. It is a
complex and ancient system for calculating time. By gaining an
understanding of the Chinese calendar, one can travel through thousands
of years of Chinese history and appreciate its subtleties. With the Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition, H. Moser & Cie. is paying tribute to traditional Chinese culture.
The Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition is a true technical feat,
displaying the months and days of the Chinese calendar, the days of the
Gregorian calendar, the moon phases, and the signs of the zodiac that
are associated with each Chinese year. As the lunar calendar is based on
the cycles of the moon, Chinese months have 29 or 30 days, in keeping
with the phases of the moon, which takes 29.53 days to orbit the Earth.
There are 12 lunar months, which means that a lunar year lasts an
average of 354.36 days and, therefore, has 10.88 days fewer than a solar
year, which lasts 365.25 days. In a solely lunar calendar, the months
shift with respect to the seasons, each month starting around 11 days
earlier with every subsequent solar year. To avoid an excessive
discrepancy with the solar year, lunisolar calendars have a 13th
month every two to three years. These months are known as “embolismic”
and are added to keep the lunar years aligned with the four seasons. The
Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition also indicates this extra
month.
As there are no repeated cycles in the Chinese calendar, it is mechanically impossible to produce a Chinese perpetual calendar. H. Moser & Cie.
and Agenhor SA therefore undertook a major challenge in choosing to
make a timepiece that is able to precisely indicate all the lunisolar
calendar information for every 12 years without any corrections. While
the other Chinese calendars on the market require at least 70 manual
corrections over a duodecimal period, this is the first movement to
operate according to the same cycle without external intervention. This
feat is made possible by two cams that work in parallel and convey
information on the number and duration of Chinese months using feelers.
The Endeavour
Chinese Calendar Limited Edition will also take into account the number
of Chinese lunisolar months and their duration, the embolismic months,
the Chinese lunisolar year and the corresponding animal of the Chinese
zodiac, the moon phases, and the dates of the Gregorian calendar, for a
duration of 12 years. At the end of this cycle, the cams will very
simply be changed for the next 12-year period at the same time as the
watch is serviced.
Contrasting with the red gold of the Endeavour case, the Midnight Blue
fumé dial bears the H. Moser & Cie logo in transparent lacquer, like
a secret signature. It features crescent-shaped windows, one indicating
the Chinese lunisolar months, on the left-hand side, and the other
simultaneously displaying the Chinese lunisolar days and the moon phase
on the right-hand side. Two retrograde hands with rounded tips travel
along these windows and return to their starting points once they have
completed their course. At 12 o’clock, two windows show the Chinese
lunisolar year and the associated animal zodiac, as well as the
embolismic month number whenever there is a 13-month year. In a standard
12-month year, this corresponding window will stay black. An
off-centred small seconds display sits on top of the Gregorian calendar
window at 6 o’clock. Limited to 100 pieces, the Endeavour Chinese
Calendar Limited Edition model will be available from H. Moser & Cie.‘s partner network worldwide.
Based on H. Moser & Cie.‘s
HMC 200automatic in-house movement, the HMC 210calibre is combined
with a module developed by Agenhor SA. As Edouard Meylan, CEO of H.
Moser & Cie., explains: “This synergy between our two partner
companies gave rise to the Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition,
which conveys the complexity of the Chinese calendar and encapsulates it
in an elegant and refined watch that is easy to use, read and adjust.
With its minimalist and elegant aesthetics, it is a contemporary
westernised interpretation of the Chinese traditional culture, unlike
the other models of its kind available on the market, which are
extremely complex in functional display, difficult to read, and have a
very oriental design. I am convinced that this piece’s success will
transcend borders and cultures simply because it is a beautiful thing.”
Reference 1210-0400, 5N red gold model, Midnight Blue fumé dial, brown alligator strap, limitededitionof 100 pieces
Case 5N red gold Diameter: 40.0 mm Height: 13.0 mm Sapphire crystal and see-through case-back Crown adorned with an “M” Water-resistant to 12 ATM Dial Midnight Blue fumé with sunburst pattern H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer Applique indices Leaf-shaped hour, minute and small seconds hands Round Chinese days and month hand Movement Automatic calibre HMC 210 Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes Height: 8.1 mm Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h 33 jewels Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system Solid 18K gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark Power reserve: minimum of 3 days Original Straumann® hairspring Finish with Moser stripes Functions Hours and minutes Small seconds at 6 o’clock Indication of the Chinese years and the embolismic month at 12 o’clock Retrograde display of the Chinese months Retrograde display of the lunar days and moon phases Indication of the Gregorian date at 6 o’clock Bracelet Hand-stitched brown alligator leather 5N red gold folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo
A time-measuring instrument with an inimitable sound
The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is the only mechanical wristwatch that combines a jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater. At the push of a button, it sounds the hours, ten-minute intervals and minutes.
A. Lange & Söhne now presents this technically exceptional timepiece in a limited 30-watch edition with a grey dial, crafted from Lange-exclusive honey gold (HONEYGOLD®) ‒ according the watch a singular sound.
The new ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER HONEYGOLD
With the launch of the platinum ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER in 2015, A. Lange & Söhne presented a totally new interpretation of the classic complication. Its technically highly sophisticated mechanism sounds the time on demand. Instead of the conventional quarter-hours, it chimes ten-minute intervals: thus, its unique sound format corresponds exactly to the mechanical-digital time as displayed.
As soon as the button at 10 o’clock is activated, a low-pitched tone is sounded for each elapsed hour, a double tone (high-pitched/low-pitched) for each elapsed ten-minute period, and a high-pitched tone for each elapsed minute.
At the illustrated time of 7:52 hrs, seven low-pitched tones, five double tones, and two high-pitched tones are struck. One hears what one sees. And sees what one hears.
Perfecting the sound
The acoustic time indication of the new ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER HONEYGOLD is endowed with an individual, expressive sound. Its unique sonority and acoustic characteristics are attributable to the honey-gold alloy of the case that serves as a resonant body. It produces a clear, reverberant sound, paired with a rich and warm timbre.
Anthony de Haas, Director Product Development at A. Lange & Söhne, and a passionate drummer, explains: “Every minute repeater has its own, one-of-a-kind sound. Apart from the gongs and gong hammers, the case material has the greatest impact on the sound. Similar to a musical instrument, different tone colours and sound impressions are created, depending on the material used. That is also the case with our novelty in honey gold. It sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.”
“To attain this particular sound quality, all parameters are perfectly matched to one another,” elaboratesTino Bobe, Director Manufacture. “The gongs that are meticulously hand-tuned deliver a pure, resonant sound and harmonise with the sound characteristics of the Lange-exclusive case alloy. Additionally, all components are carefully tuned by one of our master watchmakers. This requires multiple disassembly, reworking, reassembly and finally, testing procedures. Much of the manufacturing time is thus dedicated to perfecting the sound: to complete such a watch calls for acute hearing and extreme dexterity.”
The elaborate polishing of the gongs and blackpolishing of the gong hammers requires the experience and virtuosity of a master watchmaker. These components are subtly integrated in the design of the dial and can be observed in action during the repetition sequence: the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER HONEYGOLD stages an impressive performance ‒ acoustically as well as visually.
Simple and safe
In keeping with their drive to do things differently, the Lange watchmakers explored new avenues when they developed the operating mechanism of this watch. The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER comes with a unique button mechanism for triggering the repeater. Because the power for the striking mechanism is delivered by the twin mainspring barrel, there is no need for a slide ‒ common in minute repeaters – to tension a separate spring.
To guarantee the flawless interaction of the complex mechanical ensemble, elaborate safety and blocking mechanisms have been integrated into the movement. To assure that the repeater sequence is not prematurely interrupted and the watch inadvertently stops running, the striking mechanism can no longer be activated if the remaining power reserve is less than twelve hours. On the power-reserve indicator, the 12-hour mark is identified with a red dot.
While the repeater is working, the switching action of the numerals discs is delayed. At the same time, the crown cannot be pulled. This precaution prevents any interference with the strikework sampling sequence and ensures that the acoustic indication of time is not impaired.
At 12:59 hrs when the longest series of tones is struck, it takes about 20 seconds until the repeater sequence has ended. If a new minute begins while the repeater is striking, the minute and/or hour jump is performed immediately when the tone sequence has ended. Thereafter, the next numeral disc switching cycle takes place with the regular timing when the seconds hand passes the 60-seconds mark.
Manufacture calibre with constant-force escapement
As
with all models of the ZEITWERK watch family, the manufacture calibre
L043.5 features a constant-force escapement between the barrel and the
balance. It acts as a pacemaker for the instantaneous advance of the
numerals discs in one-minute intervals.
At the same time, it makes an
important contribution to rate stability by assuring that the balance –
regardless of the state of wind of the watch – is powered with a
consistent amount of force across the entire power-reserve duration.
Composed of 771 parts, the movement is elaborately finished by hand with
extreme care. The balance cock and the escape-wheel cock are
intricately engraved by hand.
Elegant appearance
The
ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER HONEYGOLD now joins the ZEITWERK MINUTE
REPEATER in platinum with a rhodié-coloured dial, launched in 2015, and
the limited 30-watch edition in white gold with a deep-blue dial,
presented in 2020.
All model versions have a case diameter of 44.2
millimetres. The new model version comes with a dark-brown,
hand-stitched leather strap, enhancing its strikingly elegant
appearance. The timepiece is limited to 30 watches in 18-carat honey
gold and is exclusively available in select A. Lange & Söhne
boutiques.
Movement Lange manufacture calibre L043.5, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance and escape-wheel cock engraved by hand; constant-force escapement
Calibre L043.5
Number of parts 771
Screwed gold chantons 1
Power reserve 36hours
Frequency 18,000 A/h / 3 Hz
Rubies 93 Escapement Lever escapement Oscillation system Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights; balance spring crafted in-house, frequency 18,000semi- oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring Power reserve 36 hours when fully wound if the striking mechanism is not activated Functions Time display in hours and minutes with precisely jumping numerals discs, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator, striking mechanism with decimal minute repeater Case Measurements 18-carat HONEYGOLD®
Diameter 44.2 millimetres
Height 14.1 millimetres Operating elements Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; button for activating the striking mechanism Crystal and caseback Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9) Dial 18-carat HONEYGOLD® Time bridge Rhodiumed German silver Hands 18-carat HONEYGOLD® Bracelet 18-carat HONEYGOLD® Deployant buckle in 18-carat HONEYGOLD® and 18-carat white gold
🔰 Edition Limited to 30 timepieces 🔴 Price: on Request 💰
----------------------------- Press Release - 2023
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------------------------------------------- Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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