Wednesday, April 14, 2021

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Regulator Perpetual Calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire

 VACHERON CONSTANTINLes Cabinotiers  Regulator Perpetual Calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire Unique Piece 2021

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     A single-piece edition with a regulator-type display
    A Manufacture-made movement, Calibre 2460 RQP
    A perpetual calendar with precision moon phases
    Artistic crafts highlighting the technical nature of the timepiece


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Geneva, April 7th 2021 - Vacheron Constantin presents a single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece featuring a regulator-type display and perpetual calendar with precision moon phases, powered by in-house Calibre 2460 RQP. Set with precious stones on the bezel and the delicately guilloché dial, this model combines a technical display mode with an elegant reading of time. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.


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Watches with a regulator-type display are reminiscent of the precision clocks developed for astronomers more than 200 years ago. This concept has been picked up in the creation of this single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire timepiece, whose astronomical references are accentuated by a perpetual calendar function with precision moon phases. These Haute Horlogerie complications are highlighted by the artisans of the Manufacture. To lend depth to the delicately hand-engraved guilloché dial, sparkling diamond and sapphire edging echoes the diamond-set bezel, in an alternation elegantly accentuating the various timekeeping and astronomical displays.

The precision of regulator-type watches

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire watch is immediately set apart by its regulator-type display. Powered by self-winding Calibre 2460 RQP, this timepiece offers a separate reading of the minutes with a central hand and the hours on a dial positioned at 12 o'clock.

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This way of indicating time by non-coaxial markers dates back to the late 17th century. Through their observations of the sky and the path of heavenly bodies, astronomers soon realised the necessity of reliable and regular time measuring instruments. To meet this need, horologists developed regulating clocks, also known as master clocks, because they were used as reference timekeepers. The extreme precision of these clocks stemmed from bimetallic pendulums used to compensate for the effect of temperature variations. In addition, by offering a display of the hours and seconds on separate counters along with a central minutes hand, they enabled clear and accurate readings of the timekeeping indications.

This mechanical invention was not forgotten with the advent of pocket watches, followed by wristwatches, and was especially favoured for the originality and extreme legibility of its display. The Les Cabinotiers regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire watch echoes this layout, further enhanced by a perpetual calendar with precision moon phases as a tribute to the astronomical origins of regulators. In place of the small seconds hand, the 6 o'clock counter thus serves to indicate the date and the moon phases.

Mastery of astronomical functions

Through countless ages, the moon served to mark the path of time, notably for the passage of months and the calculation of weeks. Based on these first astronomical observations, watchmakers soon realised the advantage of adding a moon-phase display to the dial of their timepieces. While poetically evoking planetary laws, they also testify to consummate technical mastery in their horological representation, through their integration within the global perspective of a perpetual calendar.

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The mechanical difficulty inherent in moon phases is the duration of a lunar cycle – i.e. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, 2.8 seconds (29.5305881 days) – which must be regulated by movements based on a sexagesimal system. To achieve this, the most common solution consists of rounding off lunar cycles to 29.5 days, enabling the moon phases to be activated via a 59-tooth gear with two lunar cycles – a solution which results in an approximately one-day discrepancy every 32 months. More complex yet more accurate, the system based on a 135-tooth gear yields what is known as a precision astronomical moon phase display, whose drift amounts to only one day every 122 years and 46 days. It is precisely this device that has been integrated into the perpetual calendar of Calibre 2460 RQP with its 40-hour power reserve. Successfully keeping step with the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar and requiring no adjustment until 2100, this perpetual calendar is distinguished on this timepiece by the indication of the days and months through apertures on either side of the hours dial, which itself bears the leap-year indication at 4 o'clock. The date is displayed by a pointer and the moon phases appear on the subdial at 6 o’clock.

Artistic crafts and creativity

Perfectly illustrating the creative spirit of Vacheron Constantin, this single-piece edition has been preciously embellished by the gifted artist’s hands of artisans. On the dial swept over by white gold hands, the guilloché artist has created a delicate spiral pattern, enhanced by a row of 44 baguette-cut diamonds rimming the bezel. The silver-toned dial is also set with an edging of precious stones facing the minute track, a border composed of 36 baguette-cut diamonds, alternating with 10 sapphires positioned every five minutes. The spark of the sapphires is further accentuated by the two hours and moon-phase subdials, which adopt the same dark blue hue.

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The noble distinction of this timepiece with its 42 mm 18K white gold case is perceptible even in the meticulous hand finishing adorning the movement. The watch's sapphire caseback reveals the delicate circular graining of the mainplate with bridges featuring the Côtes de Genève motif, as well as the subtle guilloché pattern on the 18K 5N gold oscillating weight. The Les Cabinotiers regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire watch is fitted with a dark blue alligator leather strap, secured by an 18K gold pin buckle whose outline is inspired by the shape of a Maltese cross adorned with 12 baguette-cut diamonds.

Le Temps Céleste

Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to "Le Temps Céleste" (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

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From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

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It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the "stellar" glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches

Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical "epic" that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

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Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l'Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva's buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist

Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. 

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Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

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Sum-up


The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire watch is distinguished by its regulator-type display. As early as the late 17th century, regulator clocks were used as reference timepieces in watchmaking workshops because of their precision and the legibility of their display, which is dissociated from the minutes by a central hand and the hours on a dial positioned at 12 o'clock. 

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Powered by self-winding Calibre 2460 RQP automatic calibre, this watch is also equipped with a perpetual calendar. A complication which follows the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar without any need for correction before 2100 and is characterised on this model by the indication of the days and months in apertures on either side of the hours dial and the leap-year indication at 4 o'clock. The date is indicated by a pointer at 6 o'clock on a counter whose centre is devoted to the precision moon-phase display. A jewellery watch crafted by the expert hands of craftsmen, this piece is finely set on the bezel and the delicately guilloché dial.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Les Cabinotiers Regulator perpetual calendar – Moonlight Jewellery Sapphire

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Reference 4007C/000G-B709

Movement 
Calibre
2460 RQP

Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
31 mm diameter, 6.05 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 40h
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
237 components
27 jewels

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours and minutes

Perpetual calendar
Moon phases
Case
18K white gold, bezel set with 💎44 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.9 cts)

42 mm diameter, 11.80 mm thick
Dial
Silver-toned dial hand-guilloché with spiral motif, set with 💎36 baguette-cut diamonds (0.6 ct) and 💎10 sapphires (0.2 ct)

18K white gold hands
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K
white gold buckle set with 💎12 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.1 cts)

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

 

 
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Press Release - 2021
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Tuesday, April 13, 2021

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO Minute Repeater Symphony Edition

 Carl F. BuchererMANERO Minute Repeater Symphony Gold Automatic Edition 2021

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INTRODUCING THE MANERO MINUTE REPEATER SYMPHONY: CARL F. BUCHERER SETS NEW PERIPHERAL TECHNOLOGY STANDARDS

Carl F. Bucherer and the New Era of Peripheral Technology

Its very name is music. The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is a tribute to technical innovation, the Swiss watchmaking tradition and artistic excellence. It is the most extraordinary timepiece Carl F. Bucherer has created in a long and impressive history that can be traced back to 1888.

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The COSC-certified chronometer takes peripheral technology to places no watch brand has ever been before, with three peripheral movement elements – the rotor, the regulator, and a remarkable tourbillon that appears to float freely – developed in-house and patented by Carl F. Bucherer.

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Not only does the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony´s MR3000 manufacture movement have a peripheral winding system and a peripherally suspended floating tourbillon, it also features what is arguably the most sophisticated complication in the art of watchmaking, the minute repeater with a peripherally mounted regulator.

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This regulator, along with the peripheral winding system and the floating tourbillon, are patented by Carl F. Bucherer, and, together, these peripheral innovations combine to create a true horological symphony – a composition which, in fact, inspired the renowned Lucerne Festival Orchestra to honor it with a brilliant new opus. Both masterpieces – the musical and the watchmaking symphonies – will be premiered during Watches and Wonders 2021.

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 Sascha Moeri, Carl F. Bucherer’s CEO, points out that the Lucerne Festival Orchestra’s composition and the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony are ideal partners: “The word symphony in the name of our watch expresses harmonic complexity and the delicate interaction among different parts – qualities it shares with the orchestra. Their stunning new piece of music and our watch are a perfect pairing. We both share a commitment to artistic perfection and a dedication to craftsmanship.”

The MR3000 Manufacture Caliber: Setting New Standards

Carl F. Bucherer’s MR3000 sets new standards in the field of peripheral technology. For the first time, the brand’s peripheral rotor is not only combined with a peripherally suspended – and thus floating – tourbillon, but also with the peripherally mounted regulator of a minute repeater mechanism.

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In this way, the Lucerne-based watchmaker not only demonstrates the highest level of manufacturing expertise, but also emphatically underscores its leadership in the field of peripheral technology. Sascha Moeri emphasizes the importance of the achievements in peripheral technology to the brand: “Clearly, our accomplishments in peripheral technology have become our flagship.

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When we secured our patent on the peripheral winding system back in 2008, it sparked the passion that ultimately led to the creation of this new watch. We are proud of what we’ve achieved and excited about sharing it with the world.”

Patented Peripheral Technology: Carl F. Bucherer’s Leitmotif

Peripherals, which the MR3000 uses three of, are among Carl F. Bucherer’s unmistakable leitmotifs. This technology premiered with the peripheral rotor, patented by the brand in 2008, when this in-house manufactured caliber became the first movement ever to implement this principle successfully in series production.

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Not only does the bidirectional automatic winding movement draw its energy from a peripherally rotating oscillating weight, its slim rotor also reveals the beauty of the movement. With the T3000 movement, which premiered in 2018, the manufacturer further extended its lead in peripheral technology when peripheral winding was combined with a groundbreaking Carl. F. Bucherer–patented transparent peripherally mounted tourbillon that appears to float. 

As the heart of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, the elaborately finished and COSC-certified MR3000 manufacture movement with a power reserve of 65 hours has ushered in an exciting new era of peripheral technology.

A Minute Repeater with a Peripherally Mounted Regulator

Repeater watches, with their sophisticated striking mechanisms, are among the most admired complications in all of watchmaking. With their acoustic qualities, they add a sensual dimension to time.

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The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony takes the classic minute repeater technique and puts this innovation to use in true Carl F. Bucherer style. Its mechanism is finely orchestrated to produce two different tones on two gongs which, along with the sculpted hammers, can be admired, most unusually, through cutouts at the edge of the dial. They are complemented by openings at 5 and 7 o’clock, through which the work of the striking hammers can be observed.

A window above 6 o’clock showcases the watch’s innovative regulator, which sets the beat of the chimes. This patented regulator is mounted peripherally via three low-friction ceramic ball bearings.

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However, the minute repeater from Carl F. Bucherer scores not only with outstanding technology, but also with genuine functionality. A protective mechanism built into the movement prevents inadvertent misuse: visible via the discrete display at 9 o’clock, it indicates the current mode of the watch – a blue dot shows that the crown is pulled out, and a musical note lets the wearer know that the minute repeater function is activated.

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 Another safety measure further ensures the protection of the watch: the crown cannot be pulled out when the repeater mechanism is running – it locks. Conversely, when the crown is pulled out, the repeater mechanism is locked.

The Peripherally Mounted Tourbillon

The tourbillon – the classic complication originally designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the eighteenth century to offset the effects of gravity on the accuracy of the watch – is another sublime expression of the art and craft of watchmaking.

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And the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer have made this epitome of their craft float: the cage of their minute tourbillon is supported peripherally – and invisibly to the observer – by three ball bearings. These frictionless ceramic ball bearings ensure stability and precise guidance.

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It is another ingenious technical feature on which Carl F. Bucherer also holds a patent. The tourbillon in the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, which is proudly and prominently displayed at 12 o’clock, not only “floats”, but also stops on command: thanks to the stop-seconds function, the rotating cage is locked when the crown is pulled, allowing the time to be set to the second.

The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony: The Beauty Is in the Detail

As breathtakingly complex as the interior of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is, its exterior, in contrast, is clear and structured: the classically elegant timepiece is clad in a 43.8 mm diameter case of 18-karat rose gold, whose open-worked and hand-angled lugs seductively follow the silhouette of the wrist.

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These spoke-shaped horns reduce the mass of the case and thus amplify the watch’s melodious sound. The 18-karat white gold dial is hand-galvanized and features a fine grainé texture. 18-karat rose gold hands and hour markers reflect the warm hue of the case.

Connoisseurs of sophisticated watchmaking will appreciate the elaborate finishing: the carefully diamond-beveled and highly polished chamfers, the sandblasted crown, the hand-angled dial edges and windows, or the Geneva-striped, angled, and diamond-beveled bridges that can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

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The individual numbering of the model, limited to 88 pieces, is engraved by hand on a small plaque in 18-karat gold at the 6 o’clock position on the dial. The watch is presented on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap whose every individual scale has been finished by hand. It is secured with an 18-karat rose gold folding clasp.

Carl F. Bucherer’s Customization:
A Watch as Unique as the Person Who Wears It

For those who wish to accentuate the unique character of this limited-edition masterpiece to create their very own symphony, Carl F. Bucherer offers further customization options. There are opportunities for the customer to choose from different designs and finishes, creating a timepiece that is as unique as he or she is.

A Unique Resonator – Sharing the Music!

Inside the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony´s luxury box is a stunning, specially designed resonator that will allow proud owners of this remarkable watch to share its unique music with their friends. The ingenious amplification system is meticulously crafted from spruce harvested from the forests in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains.

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This spruce has long been regarded for its qualities as a tone wood and has been used for the tops of some of the world’s finest guitars, violins, and other stringed instruments. This unusual amplification system doubles the volume of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony minute repetitions, making it easy to let others enjoy the phenomenon.

A Symphony Meets the Symphony:
Carl F. Bucherer and the Lucerne Festival Orchestra

Not only do the celebrated Lucerne Festival Orchestra and Carl F. Bucherer share a hometown, but also a rich history and the common pursuit of excellence. Through the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, these two prominent Lucerne natives have now found each other: inspired by the unmistakable sound of the minute repeater, the young Swedish composer Lisa Streich wrote the piece “PERIPHERY”, commissioned by Lucerne Festival, which will celebrate its premiere during this year’s groundbreaking Watches and Wonders along with the watch that inspired it.

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In addition to the watch’s unique striking mechanism, its three peripheral elements also play an important role in this intriguing musical composition. Lisa Streich’s inspired piece takes core elements of the watch’s design and gives them voice for 2 minutes and 30 seconds. The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is distinguished by its minute repeater and triple peripheral technology, so these components are represented musically by an imaginative combination of instruments and techniques.

For example, the repeater function’s extremely mobile beat generator – its peripherally-mounted regulator – is reproduced by the striking and stroking of a triangle positioned vertically on a timpani.

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The sounds of a violin bow drawn against the length the strings, breathing noises from the wind instruments, and the quirky drone of an instrument called a buzzing bow combine to express the complexity of the peripheral rotor. The floating tourbillon and its delicate cage find their counterpart in the brass section, whose players tap the bells of their horns with a pencil, triggering the wiping motion among the strings.

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In doing so, the trumpet stimulates a response from the higher strings, and the trombone the lower ones; the exquisite choreography of the hands is recreated with a distinctive tick, tock, tick, tock.

The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony: Setting the Standard

With its Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, Carl F. Bucherer has unequivocally established some new benchmarks in the Swiss watch industry. The brand, which has been in the hands of the founding family since 1888, is still resolutely independent and has again secured its place in the ranks of true manufacturers while reconfirming the status as the leader in peripheral technologies that it has enjoyed since 2008.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Facts & Figures MANERO Minute Repeater Symphony 

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Reference number:  00.10925.03.63.01

Movement:
Automatic with a 22 k rose gold oscillating weight
Mnufacture caliber CFB MR3000
COSC-certified  chronometer,  
diameter  35.70  mm,
height 8.59 mm, 47 rubies,
power reserve 65 hours
Functions:
Minute repeater with two gongs, floating tourbillon, hour, minute, small
seconds on tourbillon cage, stop-second, protection function for the mechanism

Case:
18 k rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflecting coating on both sides
Water resistant to 10 m (1 bar),
Diameter 43.8 mm, height 12.47 mm.

Dial display:
18 k white gold Pd210 electroplated and grained pattern with 18 k rose gold hands and indexes
Strap:
Dark brown Louisiana alligator leather, lining in dark brown Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched, 18 k rose gold pin-lock folding clasp

 - Limited Edition of 88 pieces


Price: US$ 57,600; or € 46,400

* Recommended retail price
 
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Press release - 2021
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Contact:
For further information, please contact:
Gitte Hammerström, Head of Communications
Tel. +41 ( 0 )41 369 73 58
E-mail l :
gitte.hammerstroem@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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