ZENITH – DEFY Fusee Tourbillon Edition 2019

ZENITH – DEFY El Primero Fusee Tourbillon Limited Edition 2019

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DEFY 

EL PRIMERO FUSEE TOURBILLON

Since the dawn of precision timekeeping, watchmakers have sought to produce timepieces that offer unfaltering performance through the use of “constant force”. Zenith reinterprets the fusee & chain constant force mechanism in a modernistic style in the new DEFY Fusee Tourbillon.

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Housing the new El Primero 4805 SK calibre, a manual-winding movement that follows the DEFY code of avant-garde movement architecture with an open three-dimensional impact, the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon is available in two distinct editions in Carbon and Platinum.

A New Vision of Haute Horlogerie

Upon a first glance, it’s immediately clear that the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon’s calibre is out of the ordinary. The spoke design of the bridges is amplified by their bicolor finish, where the top satin-finished surface is given a black treatment, while its polished sides are a lighter grey rhodium tone. The layout of the bridges offers a balanced layout of the various functions and complications. On the top half of the movement, one can admire the uniquely conceived fusee and chain constant force mechanism.

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The chain, which consists of 575 individually hand-assembled components, features a bold blued treatment: a first for a wristwatch fusee and chain system. On the opposite end at 6 o’clock, a tourbillon cage with an entirely new construction featuring an off-centered balance wheel makes a full rotation every 60 seconds.

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Like the chain, the tourbillon cage is embellished with a striking blue colour, reinforcing the visual effect of the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon’s unique moving parts. Positioned at the edge of the dial between 4 and 5 o’clock, a red-tipped hand indicates the power reserve, a handy feature when manually winding the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon with its 50-hour power reserve.

One extraordinary movement – two entirely different executions

As a mechanical movement’s mainspring unwinds, the torque it delivers to the regulating organ drops, resulting in less efficient chronometric performance of the movement. A centuries-old solution to counter this and achieve constant force lies within the power source and its transmission. Known as the “fusee and chain” system, it features miniature chain is coiled around a conical “fusee” and attached to the mainspring barrel. As the mainspring unwinds, more of the chain wraps around the barrel, detaching itself from the wide conical base of the fusee. The greater turning movement provided by the fusee compensates the weakening mainspring pull, thus maintaining the torque and, consequently, the amplitude of the regulating organ constant throughout the duration of the mainspring’s autonomy.

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By combining the fusee and chain mechanism with a tourbillon regulating organ, Zenith places precision at the forefront of its unique take on haute horlogerie. Highlighting the unique technical and aesthetic prowess of the piece, the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon is produced in two different editions.


The first version features a light yet robust carbon case, crown and buckle head. The carbon fibre treatment even extends to the open dial, with the central skeletal element and surrounding flange ring giving off the unique shimmer of this material. To complete the high-tech look, the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon in carbon is fitted on a black rubber strap with a “Cordura” fabric effect and blue stitching. A second strap is also supplied, in black rubber with a woven carbon effect. The DEFY Fusee Tourbillon in carbon is limited to 50 pieces.

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The second version of the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon, limited to just 10 pieces, is crafted in platinum. The exposed movement provides a vibrant, voluminous view, where the mix of materials and tones add visual depth, from the anthracite base plate of the movement to the blued chain and tourbillon cage topped with a set of geometrical bridges in two tones. The strap is made of a black rubber core coated with black alligator leather.


While each version will appeal to a different kind of forward-thinking watch aficionado, one thing is certain: the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon solidifies Zenith’s position as a leader in building the future of watchmaking.

 ZENITH: the future of Swiss watchmaking

With innovation as its guiding star, Zenith features exceptional in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches, such as the DEFY Inventor with its monolithic oscillator of exceptional precision, and the DEFY El Primero 21 with its high-frequency 1/100th of a second chronograph. Since its establishment in 1865, Zenith has consistently redefined the notions of precision and innovation, including the first “Pilot Watch” at the dawn of aviation and the first serially produced “El Primero” automatic chronograph calibre.

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Always one step ahead, Zenith is writing a new chapter in its unique legacy by setting new standards of performance and inspired design. Zenith is here to shape the future of Swiss watchmaking, accompanying those who dare to challenge time itself and reach for the stars.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: DEFY El Primero

Model : DEFY Fusee Tourbillon Black Carbon - LIMITED EDITION 50

Reference:     10.9000.4805/78.R916

UNIQUE SELLING POINTS
⦁    Full Carbon model: Case, crown and buckle head
⦁    Exclusive combination : Tourbillon Fusee-Chain Calibre
⦁    Chain made of 575 components
⦁    Manual winding El Primero Tourbillon with Fusée-Chain escapement
⦁    Constant force fusée-chain transmission connected to the barrel

MOVEMENT
Movement El Primero 4805 SK, Manual
Calibre 16½``` (Diameter: 37 mm)
Movement thickness: 5.9 mm
Components: 807
Exclusive bicolor signature on plates and bridges
Jewels: 34
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve approx.: 50 hours
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Tourbillon:

• - The carriage is positioned at 6 o'clock
• - The carriage makes one turn per minute
• Power-reserve indication between 4 and 5 o'clock
• Fusée-chain transmission connected to the barrel

CASE
Material: Black Carbon
Diameter: 44 mm
Diameter opening: 36.5 mm
Thickness: 13.35 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
DIAL & HANDS
Dial: Carbon Openworked
Hour-markers: Transferred
Hands: Black ruthenium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
STRAP & BUCKLE
Strap: Black rubber with black rubber "cordura effect"
Buckle: Titanium double folding clasp with black carbon head

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Model : DEFY Fusee Tourbillon Platinum 950 - LIMITED EDITION 10

Reference:     40.9000.4805/75.R582

UNIQUE SELLING POINTS
⦁    Platinum model: Case, crown and Titanium & white gold double
⦁    Exclusive combination : Tourbillon Fusee-Chain Calibre
⦁    Chain made of 575 components
⦁    Manual winding El Primero Tourbillon with Fusée-Chain escapement
⦁    Constant force fusée-chain transmission connected to the barrel

MOVEMENT
Movement El Primero 4805 SK, Manual
Calibre 16½``` (Diameter: 37 mm)
Movement thickness: 5.9 mm
Components: 807
Exclusive bicolor signature on plates and bridges
Jewels: 34
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve approx.: 50 hours
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Tourbillon:

• - The carriage is positioned at 6 o'clock
• - The carriage makes one turn per minute
• Power-reserve indication between 4 and 5 o'clock
• Fusée-chain transmission connected to the barrel

CASE
Material: Platinum 950
Diameter: 44 mm
Diameter opening: 36.5 mm
Thickness: 13.35 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
DIAL & HANDS
Dial: Carbon Openworked
Hour-markers: Transferred
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
STRAP & BUCKLE
Strap: Black rubber with black alligator leather coating
Buckle: Titanium & white gold double folding clasp

Limited Edition
Platinum Exclusively only 10-Piece 
Black Carbon version 50-Piece 

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Press Release - 2019
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com

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MB&F – Legacy Machine No2 White Gold Purple Edition

MB&F – Legacy Machine LM No2 White Gold Purple Limited Edition 

In human beings, the visible spectrum of light falls between red and violet, with infra-red and ultra-violet lying just beyond these two extremes. When we see the colour purple, what our eyes are actually taking in is the highest possible frequency of light that the human eye can perceive.
 
Legacy Machine No.2 also lies at the highest end of its horological spectrum. When it was first presented in 2013, it was one of the most forward-looking expressions of traditional mechanical watchmaking in the market. Even today, LM2 still occupies the end-zone of innovative horology, and a new version, presented with a purple dial of arresting visual depth, embodies this position.

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Back in white gold, the material of one of its launch editions, LM2 frames its hypnotic engine in a case that is discreet yet precious. Following the sleeker balance bridges of the redesigned LM2 Titanium, the LM2 White Gold Purple offers a more elegant take on the original industrial aesthetic of the first LM2. The sunray-finished dial plate is given its purple hue via the process of chemical vapour deposition (CVD), which evenly coats the dial surface and gives it a multi-faceted colouration under different angles of light — ranging from a deep violet to an almost electric shade of plasma purple.

Legacy Machines are wondrous reinterpretations of significant horological inventions by the greatest watchmakers in history. So the contemporary look endowed by the otherworldly appearance of Legacy Machine No.2's dual flying balances, suspended high above the dial from four gracefully arcing arms, may at first appear paradoxical. But make no mistake; LM2 is a timepiece tracing its lineage back over 250 years to three of the greatest watchmakers who ever lived: Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747– 1823), Ferdinand Berthoud (1727– 1807) and Antide Janvier (1751– 1835).

These horological legends of the 18th century are united not only by their inventive genius, but also by the fact that they have all constructed clocks and watches with two balances.

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Oscillating on high, the exalted double balance wheels of LM2 were inspired by, and pay homage to, one of the rarest mechanisms in the history of watchmaking: the dual regulator. And rarer still, the average rates of Legacy Machine No.2's dual regulators are transmitted by a differential to a single gear train, where the majority had two separate movements.

On display under a domed sapphire crystal cupola, the dial of Legacy Machine No. 2, which is actually the top plate of the exquisitely finished movement, is an object lesson in symmetrical simplicity. Top to bottom: the white stretched lacquer sub dial at 12 o'clock, with its blued gold hour and minute hands, is visually balanced by the large, raised differential at 6 o'clock. Left to right: the two flying balances and their escapements are identical mirror images, right down to the position of the stud holders pinning their balance springs.

While the levitated oscillating balance wheels of the binary regulators catch and hold the viewer's gaze, it is the large planetary differential sitting proud of the dial that is the real heart of Legacy Machine No.2. In an incredible feat of micro-engineering − and the sheer paucity of timepieces with multiple regulators connected via a differential attests to the enormous difficulty in creating such a complex high-precision mechanism − the differential has three roles: 1. Transferring power to each of the regulators; 2. Receiving the individual timing rates from each balance; and 3. Transmitting the average rate of the two regulators to the gear train, where it finally manifests itself as the displayed time.

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The movement of Legacy Machine No.2 was developed to MB&F's specifications by award-winning watchmaker Jean-François Mojon (Best Watchmaker at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) and his team at Chronode.  Acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen ensured that the movement's aesthetic style was consistent with high-quality traditional timepieces of the 19th century and for specifying the superlative hand-finishing.

Immaculate Geneva waves, gold chatons, mirror-polished bevels and bridges designed with deliberate internal bevelled angles (which cannot be finished by machine) showcase the movement's peerless fine finishing. Consistent with MB&F's spirit of transparency, the names of the two men responsible for the movement are hand engraved on the back.

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Two and a half centuries after three of the world's greatest watchmakers put two balance wheels into their movements, MB&F celebrates their pioneering works by creating LM2, a timepiece with two balances hovering outside the movement.

Legacy Machine No.2 was launched in 2013 in 18k red gold, 18k white gold and a limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum 950 and was redesigned in 2017 for a limited edition of 18 pieces in titanium.

Legacy Machine No.2 White Gold Purple is the latest of the series, a limited edition of just 12 pieces.

Legacy Machine No2 in detail

History of dual regulator timepieces: Even today with computer aided design programs (CAD) and ultra-high-precision CNC machines, the sheer complexity of high-end mechanical watch movements requires skilled assembly and regulation to achieve good timekeeping over a range of positions. Whether the watch is laid flat, vertical (on its edge), crown up or crown down, slightly affects the components inside – and the balance in particular – which in turn slightly changes the timing rate.

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In the 18th century, higher manufacturing tolerances coupled with low-quality oils meant that it was virtually impossible to regulate a movement to the high precision we have come to expect today. So it should come as no surprise that the greatest horologists of the period experimented with a wide variety of mechanisms to improve timekeeping.

While Ferdinand Berthoud (1727– 1807) averaged his two regulators mechanically, Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747– 1823) and Antide Janvier (1751– 1835) both created double regulator timepieces using the phenomena of resonance to average the rate of the two balances, It should be noted that the majority of dual regulator timepieces, especially those using resonance to couple the two systems, had two complete movements rather than just two regulators.

The fact that these horological geniuses made such a limited number of clocks and watches with double regulators (just a few each) indicates that they doubted that the reward was worth the effort.

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Nearly 100 years later, in the 1930s a few of the very best students at the Watchmaking School of the Vallée de Joux made double regulator pocket watches with the rates of two balances averaged by a planetary differential. The students usually made two pieces each – one for themselves and one for the school – and it is thought that 10 such timepieces exist.

Philippe Dufour, an independent watchmaker based in the Vallée de Joux saw one of these pocket watches and was inspired to create his Duality. Launched in 1996, the Duality was the first known wristwatch to feature two balances joined by a differential. There have been a (very) few other double balance wristwatches coupled via differentials.

The advantage of using a planetary differential is that the two balances beat at their natural rate, with the differential supplying the average of the two completely independent frequencies. Other mechanisms when coupled have one balance slowing down or speeding up the other to achieve an average rate and this induces slight stresses in the system.

Dial side: While superficially Legacy Machine No.2 may look like a traditional round watch, its three-dimensional architecture offers visual treats on multiple levels. What looks at first glance to be the main dial is actually the top plate of the movement, which has been finely engraved, plated and then hand-engraved with Legacy Machine below the differential.

Slightly raised above the surface is the hour-minute sub dial, its fine gold circumference highlighting the pure white of the stretched lacquer dial, which is created by applying and heating multiple layers of lacquer, causing them to stretch tightly over the surface of the dial. The white contrasts superbly with the bright blued 18k gold hands. The hands are slightly curved to follow the slightly convex surface of the sub dial. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dial and its traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive screws.

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The planetary differential also sits proud of the surface, supported by a stunning double-arc mirror-polished bridge inset with three large jewels. The complex differential is the key element in the double regulator system and raising it just above the movements enables the mechanism to be better appreciated.

Suspended above both the sub dial and the differential are the two oscillating bespoke balance wheels. The dual balances feature Breguet overcoils, inset with four fully functional timing screws. The two balances are mirror images of each other so that they react differently to different forces. The distance between the balance wheels has been carefully and deliberately calculated to avoid resonance, as this would negatively interfere with regulation.
Those elegant majestically curved arms suspending the flying balances are sculptural works of art in themselves.

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Fine Finishing and Historical Fidelity: Independent master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine No.2 movement.

A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the pure white sub dial, flying balances and raised differential. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement that Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity, both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide spaces between the bridges and between the bridges and the case.

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On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high-grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

Inspiration and Realisation: Maximilian Büsser has had a long affinity with pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. Virtually all horological complications we see today were not only imagined in that period, they were developed using just paper and pen (no sophisticated computer programs), components were produced to extremely high precision using – by today’s standards – fairly primitive machines (no electricity) and finely finished, assembled and regulated to an incredibly high quality that we still strive to match today. Their generous size compared with modern wristwatches allowed for uncluttered movement architectures with beautifully shaped bridges and plates.

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While MB&F’s futuristic Horological Machines have a firm foundation in the very best of traditional horology, Büsser wanted to pay homage to that rich tradition by imagining the type of timepieces he might create if he had been born 100 years earlier, i.e. 1867 instead of 1967. With its two, flying balances, raised planetary differential, historical bridge designs and classical fine-finishing, LM2 celebrates historical dual regulator watches with flair and passion.

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Friends responsible for LM2 White Gold Purple

Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
Movement development: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode
Movement design and finish specifications: Kari Voutilainen
R&D: Guillaume Thévenin, Ruben Martinez and Simon Brette / MB&F

Wheels: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode
Balance wheel bridge: Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP
Balance wheel: Precision Engineering
Springs and wheels: Alain Pellet / Elefil Swiss
Plates and bridges: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode
Hand-engraving of movement: Eddy Jaquet and Glypto
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C-L Rochat
Movement assembly: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre and Henri Porteboeuf / MB&F
Quality control: Cyril Fallet / MB&F
In-house machining: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
After-Sales Service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
Case and buckle: Dominique Mainier / G&F Châtelain
Dials: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger
Hands: Pierre Chillier and Isabelle Chillier / Fiedler
Sapphire crystals: Martin Stettler / Stettler
Strap: Camille Fournet
Presentation box: ATS Atelier Luxe
Logistique and production: David Lamy, Isabel Ortega and Raphaël Buisine / MB&F

Marketing & Communication: Charris Yadigaroglou, Virginie Toral and Juliette Duru / MB&F
M.A.D.Gallery: Hervé Estienne / MB&F
Sales: Rizza Naluz, Stéphanie Rea, Jean-Marc Bories and Thibault Verdonckt / MB&F
Graphic design:  Thibault Baralon / MB&F, Adrien Schulz and Gilles Bondallaz / Z+Z
Watch photography: Maarten van der Ende
Portrait photography:  Régis Golay / Federal
Webmasters: Stéphane Balet / Nord Magnétique, Victor Rodriguez and Mathias Muntz / Nimeo
Film: Marc-André Deschoux / MAD LUX
Texts: Ian Skellern / Quill & Pad and Suzanne Wong / Revolution

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Legacy Machine

Model: Legacy Machine N°2 White Gold Purple is a limited edition of 12 pieces
in 18k white gold with a bright purple face.

Engine:
Three-dimensional horological movement
developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon at Chronode, and Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Differential: Planetary differential comprising 3 gears and 5 pinions
Balance wheels: Two bespoke 11mm balance wheels with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating with stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 241
Number of jewels: 44
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; polished internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; gold chatons with polished countersinks; hand-made engravings
Functions
Hours and minutes
Planetary differential transmits the average rate of the two regulators to the single gear train.
Case
Material: 18k white gold (previous editions include 18k red or white gold, platinum and titanium)
Dimensions: 44 mm x 20 mm (19 mm for the titanium edition)
Number of components: 41
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm
Sapphire crystals:
High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Strap & Buckle
Hand-stitched alligator strap with folding buckle matching the case.

Limitation
Unique timepiece - 12 pieces

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Press release - 2019
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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