Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Dewitt – ACADEMIA Grand Tourbillon


DeWittACADEMIA Grand Tourbillon Blue and Green Limited Edition NEW

DeWitt is unveiling its latest technical innovation, the Academia
Grand Tourbillon watch, a limited edition of 99 pieces, entirely
conceived and assembled at the DeWitt Manufacture by its own
master watchmakers.

This new Academia creation houses the calibre DW 8030, developed from the DW 8028 movement, the Manufacture's first 100% in-house manually-wound tourbillon movement, first presented in 2010. Built out of 327 component parts, this calibre is structured along traditional lines and incorporates numerous tried and tested technical features: 18,000 vph, a 65-hour power reserve, a Swiss lever escapement and a Straumann balance-spring with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.

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For its part, the time display in the form of a jumping hour and minute indication reflects DeWitt's unique creativity and ground-breaking approach, far removed from the codes of conventional watchmaking. For the setting of the hours, a rack mechanism is activated to give added mobility to the watch's dial. As each minute passes, a slip-spring moves into place, drawing the observer's eyes once again to the depths of this sophisticated mechanism.

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The dial is made up of a silvered grid linked to the watch's movement that recalls the inner workings of industrial machinery at the beginning of the 20th century. The date is displayed in a rose gold colour tone in a window at 3 o'clock and is adjustable by a corrector situated on the side of the case.

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Equipped with a circular 46 mm rose gold case adorned with the famous imperial columns, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch is one of DeWitt's most emblematic timepieces.

On the reverse side of the watch the sapphire case back reveals a day and night indicator, which takes on a blue colour tone to indicate night-time and a white colour tone to indicate day-time hours.

Like every DeWitt tourbillon, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch bears the signature of the watchmaker who assembled the timepiece, inscribed on the decorative silvered grid located on the back of the movement. In order to ensure perfect quality, DeWitt makes it a point of honour that each grand complication movement should be assembled, set and tested by the same master watchmaker.

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Last but not least, the Academia Grand Tourbillon watch fully complies with the extremely demanding finishing norms established by the DeWitt Manufacture. Crafted exclusively by hand, this model features finishes of rare quality that can be observed by looking at its sapphire case back. The barrel bridge is sandblasted with a "Black Gold" treatment, the balance has a rose gold colour tone and the carriage bar is satin-finished and rhodium-plated.

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The crown and the buckle are each crafted in 18-carat rose gold and adorned with the brand's "W" signature initial. With its flawless movement and powerful allure, the Adademia Grand Tourbillon watch combines the very best of traditional craftsmanship with the technical and aesthetic innovation that is characteristic of all watch designs by Jérôme de Witt.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ACADEMIA Grand Tourbillon Limited Edition: 99 pieces

Reference : AC.GT.002
Reference : AC.GT.003

Movement
Calibre: Ref DW8030
Mechanical manually-wound movement incorporating a DeWitt Manufacture tourbillon
Diameter: 37 mm
Vibrations: 18,000 vph
Balance: Variable-inertia balance
Spiral: Spiral Straumann® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewels: 32
Number of components: 327
Functions
Jumping hours at 9 o’clock, jumping minutes at 12 hours,
disc date with corrector at 8 o’clock, day/night display
Case
Round case with 24 Dewitt imperial columns on sides
Material: 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 11.9 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold, polished, ring in blackened titanium, “W” signature
Case back: Open back, sapphire crystal with safety screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
AC.GT.002
Green lacquer with silvered grid and circles, minute counter with black rail track, 
 
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Hour counter with Roman numerals and indices in rose gold colour tone,
date display in rose gold colour tone
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-work hands in the form of double-edged swords
Limited Edition: 99 Pieces

AC.GT.003
Blue lacquer with silvered grid and circles, minute counter with black railtrack,

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Hour counter with Roman numerals and indices in rose gold colour tone,
date display in rose gold colour tone
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-work hands in the form of double-edged swords
Limited Edition: 99 Pieces

Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Black, Blue Alligator leather
Buckle: Triple folding clasp, polished 18-carat rose gold cover with “W” signature
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Rue du Pré-de-la-Fontaine 2,
1217 Meyrin, GENEVA,
SWITZERLAND +41 22 750 97 97 info@dewitt.ch
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Tuesday, February 24, 2015

IWC – PORTUGIESER PC Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary















IWC Schaffhausen PORTUGUESER Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary Limited Edition NEW


In 2015, the large digital date and month display becomes a dominant feature of the IWC Portugieser watch family. Limited to just 25 watches in platinum and 75 in each of the red gold editions, the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is equipped with a wealth of sophisticated complications that are available in this combination only from IWC Schaffhausen.

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The digital perpetual calendar is one of the outstanding technological advances made by the Schaffhausen-based watchmaking company. With the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 3972), the Portugieser watch family now includes a model featuring a digital display for the date and month. This exclusive timepiece packs a wealth of IWC watchmaking expertise into its 45-millimetre case: perpetual calendar, large digital date, leap year display, chronograph with flyback function and the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre with its quick-action switch and efficient double-pawl winding mechanism.

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On the occasion of its relaunch to mark the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser family, the watch is fitted with an arched-edge front glass and Santoni alligator leather strap and has an attractive new calibre design. The watch is limited to 25 pieces in platinum and 75 pieces each in 18-carat red gold with either a black or silver-plated dial.

CHANGING WAYS OF SEEING THINGS IN THE COURSE OF TIME

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” makes allowances for the different ways of seeing things that have developed over the centuries: the dial combines two striking, highly legible analogue displays (time and chronograph) with three digital ones (date, month and leap year). Today, most people prefer to read the time with the help of hands but are happy if the date is shown in figures. This was not always so, as can be demonstrated by the example of the time of day. In 1884, IWC unveiled its first Pallweber-style pocket watches with a jumping digital display showing the hours and minutes. The watches were an enormous hit, but then, after just 3 years, the craze was over.

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When digital time displays were embraced on a massive scale with the quartz watches of the 1970s, the watchmakers in Schaffhausen stuck to their guns and continued to use hour and minute hands. And for a good reason: on a digital display, the abstract information contained, for instance, in “11:45” first needs to be mentally processed, whereas the spatial arrangement of the hands on an analogue watch is understood quickly and intuitively. It is, simply, “quarter to twelve”.

DISPLAYING STOP TIMES IS UNCANNILY SIMPLE

Just how intensively the designers in Schaffhausen have thought about our habitual ways of seeing things can be seen from the chronograph display on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month “75th Anniversary”. While considering whether there was a way to make the figures in the various subdials of a conventional chronograph easier to process, they hit on the idea of displaying the stopped hours and minutes in a totalizer – just like the time of day. The stopped seconds continued to be shown by the central seconds hand. From a design point of view this may seem ingeniously simple, but technically speaking it is very difficult to implement.

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To turn the “watch-within-a-watch” concept into reality, a team at IWC worked for 4 years on the in-house 89360-calibre chronograph movement with its particularly efficient double-pawl winding mechanism. In this assembly, four pawls arranged diagonally to the pawl wheel – in other words two sets of double-pawls – convey the push-and-pull motion from the rotor to the barrel. This solution eliminates dead spots during winding and boosts the system’s efficiency by a significant 30 percent.

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 The further-developed in-house 89801 calibre is now used in the Reference 3972. Like its predecessor, it features an integrated flyback function that enables the user to reset the running stopwatch hands to zero simply by pushing the button, and to start another timing sequence immediately.

AN ENTIRE DIAL SET IN MOTION

It is said that some proud owners of an IWC timepiece equipped with the Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month movement put the complex mechanics of their watches to the test on New Year’s Eve by starting the chronograph just before midnight. Precisely at the moment that the new year begins the entire dial is set in motion: six hands advance slowly while two large display discs and a smaller one also move forward with a distinctive and (due to the commotion caused by celebrations) barely perceptible click. Despite this tour de force of precision mechanics, the interplay between the complications does not affect the precision of the movement, even if there is hardly any more tension in the spring.

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Where does the IWC manufactured 89801 calibre get all this power? The secret is a second source of energy, the so-called quick-action switch. Every night, when the date display moves forward, the switch siphons off a little of the energy, stores it and then discharges it precisely at the end of the month or year when, in addition to the date and month disc, the leap year disc also needs to be advanced. The perpetual calendar can be set easily using the crown. It will not require correction until 2100, a year that breaks with the conventional 4-year cycle and will not be a leap year.

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The see-through sapphire-glass back provides a view of the meticulously finished movement consisting of 474 individual parts. Following further development, the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre now has a number of new features: the rotor and the inset “Probus Scafusia” medallion are now slightly more delicate in design and made of solid red gold. Other new highlights include the decorative blued screws, which together with the red jewels and the Geneva stripes on the plate constitute an attractive ensemble.

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Technical Specifications

 Model: PORTUGUESE Edition Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary
 

Reference: IW397201  Limited Edition to 25 case in platinum, silver-plated dial watches
Reference: IW397202  Limited Edition to 75 case in 18-carat red gold, black dial watches
Reference: IW397203  Limited Edition to 75 case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial watches

FEATURES
Mechanical chronograph movement
Self-winding – IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre (89000-calibrefamily)
Perpetual calendar – Large, double-digit displays for the day and monthn Leap year display
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
Flyback function – Small hacking seconds
See-through sapphire-glass back – Rotor made of 18-carat red gold
    Limited Edition to 25 watches
MOVEMENT
    Calibre: 89801
    Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
    Jewels: 51
    Power reserve: 68 h
    Winding: automatic
WATCH
Materials:
  • Ref. IW397201: case in platinum, silver-plated dial, black
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in platinum
  • Ref. IW397202: case in 18-carat red gold, black dial, dark brown
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold
  • Ref. IW397203: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold 
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45 mm
Case height: 16,5 mm

* IWC Schaffhausen is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova® trademark.
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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