Tuesday, November 12, 2024

De Bethune – Dream Watch DW5 Al-Amal Engraving Titanium Edition

De BethuneDream Watch DW5 Al-Amal Engraving Titanium Edition - Unique Piece - 2024

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   DW5 Al-Amal
A time capsule bearing Love and hope

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De Bethune is creating a one-of-a-kind timepiece for the Mavericks of Time exhibition organised by Ahmed Sediqqi & Sons at the Museum of the Future (MOTF) in Dubai on 9 and 10 November. For this event, celebrating the creativity and boldness of independent watchmaking, the Manufacture is sending a time capsule bearing Love: a universal message of hope for future generations.

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The DW5 was the natural choice for this project that was launched in 2022 at the time of the official museum opening, as much for its futuristic, aerodynamic design as for the creative space its case provides.

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Designed in 2014 as a continuation of research into shapes and materials, the DW5 becomes De Bethune's iconic deltoid motif, an aesthetic code introduced with the first Dream Watch, which establishes a link between the various creations of the independent Manufacture.

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The compact structure of Calibre DB2144V2 developed exclusively for the curved asymmetrical case of the DW5, along with the reduced space devoted to the display of its functions – hours, minutes and spherical moon phases – already illustrated Denis Flageollet's desire for a broader aesthetic playground.

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"The Dream Watch collection is one of De Bethune's mainstays, designed to push the technical and aesthetic boundaries of the wristwatch. As a concept watch, the DW5 allows me to go beyond simple watchmaking. Like a sculpture, the experimental work carried out on titanium is part of an artistic approach inspired by philosophical and personal reflections.” Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and founder.

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Through its choice of materials and finishes as well as the use of original techniques, the DW5 paves the way towards new cultures and concepts, while retaining its identity strongly inspired by aeronautics and space exploration.

DW5 Al-Amal: a wrist sculpture brimming with hope and optimism

Named DW5 Al-Amal, this one-of-a-kind timepiece was inspired by the illuminated calligraphic motifs on the exterior façade of the museum to convey a universal message, like a time capsule sent by humanity. Entirely made of mirror-polished titanium, the case is adorned with engravings representing six distinct Arabic calligraphies of the word ‘Love’.

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Whether friendly, passionate, carnal, spiritual or unconditional, love in Arabic is pronounced and calligraphed in different ways depending on the nuance it adopts. Among the many Arabic words that express this feeling, those evoking ‘Al-Amal’ friendship, desire, the heart, love, passion and faith have been carefully selected. 

These calligraphies pay tribute to an art that elegantly and flowingly transcends mere writing, making words veritable channels of beauty and emotion.

Watchmaking tradition is all about innovation

The art of watchmaking in the 21st century follows in the footsteps of the great master watchmakers of the Age of Enlightenment. 

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Building on a centuries-old culture, it is shaped and forged on a daily basis, continually integrating the scientific and technological innovations of our time into avant-garde creations, driven by De Bethune's distinctive penchant for introducing philosophical concepts with a cultural mission. 

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The Dream Watch collection is the boldest and most accomplished expression of this horological creativity.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Dream Watch

Name: DW5 Al-Amal
Reference : DW5HOB

Movement
Calibre: DB2144V2
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Technical features of calibre DB2144V2
Number of parts: 320
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring De Bethune Patent (2010)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28'800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed-blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium
Case
Material: Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, with 5-axis mechanical engravings representing six Arabic
calligraphies meaning: friendship, desire, heart, love, passion and faith.
Diameter: lenght 58 mm – width 47 mm
Thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in mirror- polished grade 5 titanium with aperture on the
balance wheel
Crown: Mirror-polished and microblasted grade 5 titanium, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium

🔴 Price CHF 240,000 (approximately 1,000,000 AED).

 🔰Edition:  ❱❱❱ Unique Piece

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Press release -- Geneva 2024
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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www.facebook.com - DeBethune
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www.DeBethune.ch

Monday, November 11, 2024

BREGUET – MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum


BREGUETMARINE Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 Platinum 43.9mm Black Dial Version 2024

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 Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
A Grand Complication in platinum armour

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The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, standing as the technical flagship of the Marine collection, embodies a mysterious aura and adopts a solid platinum armour to house its movement, Calibre 581DPE.

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A complication as exceptional as this is mesmerising, the Equation Marchante records the difference between local time - the time that punctuates our daily lives - and solar time - the time dictated by the earth’s rotation relative to the sun. 


Featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, this Marine piece is made in platinum, a rare and durable precious metal renowned for its remarkable resistance to corrosion and enduring brilliance.

Abraham-Louis Breguet, Watchmaker to the Royal Navy

The origins of the contemporary collection trace back to the prestigious title "Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy" awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous workshop in 1775, by Louis XVIII on October 27th, 1815, a year after he was appointed a member of the Board of Longitude.

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BREGUET Marine chronometer N°3196 sold January 14, 1822 to the French Navy

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This distinguished role crowned the revolutionary advances that the master made over four decades and drew on his scientific knowledge acquired during his training with his mathematician Father Joseph-François Marie, as well as renowned watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine. 

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BREGUET simple watch with equation of time3862
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It enabled him to design marine chronometers, indispensable precision tools for astronomical navigation, and to calculate the position of ships in a fleet.

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Montres Breguet's rich heritage, which connects the House to the oceans and navigation, has paved the way for the Marine collection, a family of timepieces with a sporty silhouette and signature aesthetics that clearly evoke the codes of the marine world: a dial decorated with a hand guilloché "wave" motif, a crown guard with an undulating profile, a hand finished with an anchor among other distinctive features.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, ambassador of Breguet expertise

This highly technical timepiece, featuring three mechanical high complications: the running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, - driven by the self-winding Calibre 581DPE, embodies the spirit of innovation that has characterised the brand since its inception.

Equation Marchante

This exceptional complication simultaneously displays the difference between mean solar time (calendar hours and minutes) and true solar time (used since ancient times, it can maximally deviate by up to 14 minutes late or 16 minutes early) thanks to an equation of time cam linked to a feeler to drive the equation lever.

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With the Marine 5887, reading the time is instantaneous thanks to its two minute hands: one Breguet-style with a luminescent tip for calendar time, and the other, finished with a gold plated, diamond polished and fluted ring, for solar time.

Perpetual calendar


Acting like a mechanical diary, this complication indicates the date with an anchor-shaped retrograde hand that follows an arc-shaped scale, graduated from 1 to 31, located in the upper part of the dial. The day, month and leap year are displayed in two open windows at 10.30 and 1.30. This information is detailed in white on a black background for easy legibility.

Tourbillon

Created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented in 1801 to counter the adverse effects of gravity on the running of mechanical movements in pocket watches, features a titanium cage and a Breguet balance-spring made in silicon at around 5 o'clock.  To enhance the functionalities of the Marine Equation Marchante 5887, a blued gauge positioned between 7 and 8.30 o’clock provides information on the level of stored energy available, which amounts to 80 hours when the watch is fully wound.

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An engraved platinum peripheral oscillating weight decorated with a "wave" motif wraps around the hand chiselled back of the calibre 581DPE depicting the silhouette of the Royal Louis, a Royal Navy warship commissioned in 1752. The barrel is decorated with a hand engraved compass rose.

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Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. 

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This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model.  This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock. 

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Guilloché and engraving are delicate arts, executed by hand by exceptional artisans, true masters of their craft. Each pattern is patiently sculpted, each line traced with infinite precision, breathing unique, almost lifelike character into each timepiece. 

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These pieces become much more than mere timepieces: they capture the essence of time and the soul of the artisan, offering a rare luxury — that of wearing an exclusive and inimitable work of art.

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The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes. 

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Since , the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

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 BREGUET Sketches illustrating the installation of Marine chronometers aboard ships
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Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam.

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The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. 

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 It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.

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This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.   

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Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.

Aesthetic poetry: the open sea under the night sky

Presented in 👉 2017, the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 initially featured a 43.9 mm diameter case available in platinum or pink gold with an ultramarine face. 

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 Three years later for the 220th anniversary of the tourbillon, the collection was expanded to include the warm reflections of pink gold combined with a chocolate-coloured dial.

This autumn, Montres Breguet completes the series by choosing the gentle strength of platinum for its fluted case. This precious grey metal is combined with the black hue for the "wave" guilloché dial, evoking the image of an ocean cradled by the silvery glow of the Moon. The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. 

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The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

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At the centre of this image, four hands play a precise role: the stylised pair of Breguet hands with Super-LumiNova® filled tips indicating the hours and minutes, the hand with a golden circle indicating the solar time, and finally the hand with an anchor indicating the date. Raised blackened gold appliques Roman numerals are set on a wide circular-brushed ring, interspersed with luminescent dots and surmounted by gold hour-markers in the shape of nautical pennants.

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A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  MARINE

Model: MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum

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Reference. 5887PT/92/5WV

Case
Case in 950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband. Fluted middle
Sapphire caseback single, internal anti-reflective coating
Wave-shaped crown-guard
Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
43.9mm diameter. 
11.8mm thickness
Water-resistant to 10bar (100m).
Dial
White gold with black finishing, hand-guilloché "wave" motif
Circular brushed silvered hour circle
Black Roman numerals in 18K gold appliqué
Pyramid hour markers in 18K gold and luminescent material
Date with retrograde hand from 9 to 3 o'clock
Applied 18K rhodium-plated gold windows, day at 10.30, month and year at 1.30
Rhodium-plated hands: Breguet tip, in 18K gold faceted, Super-LumiNova® with
blue emission colour (calendar time) - baton, gold plated ring (solar time) - straight,
ship's anchor, retrograde (date) - triangular on tourbillon (months)
Tourbillon opening at 5 o'clock, sapphire crystal
  • Running solar hand with facetted golden sun.
  • Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock.
  • Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock.
  • Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.
  • Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.
Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar, tourbillon,  
 Cal. 581DPE. 16 ½ lines, 563 components,
Numbered and signed Breguet.   
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Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis.
16¾ lignes. 57 jewels.
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns.
Silicon balance spring.
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) Flat silicon spiral
80-hour power reserve
Hand-engraved decorative Royal Louis ship, compass rose 
Tourbillon: titanium cage Grade 5, engraved "MARINE ROYALE" bar Equation of time cam on Tourbillon axis
Indicators
  • Hours, minutes in the centre
  • Minutes (solar time) in the centre
  • Small seconds on the tourbillon
  • Date hand
  • Day, month, leap year in 18K rhodium-plated applied windows
  • Power reserve
Strap
Black textured rubber
Triple-blade 950 platinum folding clasp


Variations
  • 950 platinum case, blue dial (ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, brown dial (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, silver dial (ref. 5887BR/12/9WV)
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  Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024


#Breguet
#breguetMARINE
#MARINEROYALE
#BreguetTourbillon  
#EquationMarchante
#breguet5887
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

  🔴 Price upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Press release - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
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www.Breguet.com

Friday, November 8, 2024

Christiaan Van Der Klaauw – CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

 

Christiaan Van Der KlaauwAstronomical Masterpieces CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition 2024

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IN CELEBRATION OF SINCERE FINE WATCHES’ 70TH ANNIVERSARY, CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW ASTRONOMICAL WATCHES UNVEILS THE 3-PIECE LIMITED CVDK GRAND PLANETARIUM ECCENTRIC SINCERE PLATINUM JUBILEE EDITION

Commemorating Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th anniversary, Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches (CVDK) unveils the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition: an exquisite mechanical Planetarium watch that displays all eight planets, and features a uniquely designed, enchanting universe-inspired dial exclusive to Sincere.


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The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is an exclusive timepiece created to mark Sincere Fine Watches70th anniversary.

Since the partnership began in 2023, a journey focused on horological excellence has led to the creation of three exclusive SHH Editions to commemorate the grand openings of SHH boutiques — a Sincere Fine Watches’ retail concept in Malaysia, Thailand, and Taiwan. In 2024, both Sincere Fine Watches and CVDK celebrate significant anniversaries: Sincere’s Platinum Jubilee and CVDK’s Golden Jubilee. This collaboration culminated in the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, featuring a limited-edition dial crafted exclusively for Sincere and showcasing CVDK’s newly developed in-house manufacture movement.

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The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a limited edition dial, showing the orbits of all 8 planets.
Oil-painted dial by artist Gaël Colon

Central to the allure of the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Editon is the beautifully oil-painted dial by artist Gaël Colon, which serves as a profound expression of infinite time. 

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This limited edition dial holds significant meaning, inspired by an early prototype that Christiaan van der Klaauw meticulously conceptualised and spray-painted on his drawing board during the inception of the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture. The distinctive design elements resonated deeply, leading to the decision to honour Christiaan’s legacy by adopting it as the centrepiece of Sincere’s commemorative piece. The result is a captivating dial that artfully illustrates the orbits of all eight planets, embodying an ethereal and timeless beauty brought to life by Gaël Colon.

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The beautiful oil painted dial by artist Gaël Colon, inspired by an early prototype of the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture.
Astronomical Complication

The mesmerising CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is an exceptional Haute Horlogerie masterpiece, showcasing on its dial the real-time orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus, and Neptune around the Sun

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Each celestial body performs its cosmic ballet in real time, with Mercury completing its orbit in just 87.97 days, while Neptune takes 164.80 years, mirroring reality as closely as possible. As the planets trace their eccentric orbital paths, they invite collectors to contemplate the flow of time, moving swiftly yet at times seeming to linger, captivating with their unique rhythms.

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The dial features Earth with its single moon, while Jupiter and Saturn are adorned with four moons — two on each side, exclusively displayed for Sincere’s commemorative piece, to symbolise their extensive moon systems, as Jupiter has 92 moons and Saturn boasts 145.  The periphery of the dial also incorporates Zodiac sign indicators, which can be read in conjunction with the motion of Planet Earth, illustrating the inextricable connection between the concepts of time and celestial space. This exquisite creation underscores CVDK’s commitment as the sole atelier in the world devoted entirely to the design and production of handcrafted astronomical watches, showcasing the mechanical marvel that this piece embodies.

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The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricacies of the CVDK manufacture movement, with a skeletonised rotor in the shape of the CVDK logo.
CVDK Manufacture

CVDK’s newly developed in-house movement represents a significant achievement in horology, reflecting the brand’s commitment to artistry. Developed since 2017 and unveiled in 2024, this movement celebrates CVDK’s 50-year anniversary of astronomical complications. Its thoughtful incorporation into Sincere Fine Watches’ commemorative piece showcases the enduring partnership between the two brands and underscores their shared commitment to continuously elevating the art of fine watchmaking.

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The movement features a variable-inertia balance wheel, a free-sprung hairspring, and intricately crafted star-shaped bridges with hand-applied circular finishing, all meticulously designed to optimise the watch’s accuracy. The frosted star motif is beautifully complemented by rhodium-plated detailing and perlage on the main plate. The skeletonised rotor is crafted in the shape of the CVDK logo and plated in rose gold, adding to the overall allure of this refined piece. This exquisite masterpiece offers a power reserve of 60 hours and uni-directional automatic winding, exemplifying the highest standards of precision and reliability.

A refined engraving of the Sincere Platinum Jubilee emblem on the side of the case, and on the sapphire crystal caseback, serves as a fitting tribute to this celebration.

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The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, featuring the universe-inspired dial and precise craftsmanship.

As we celebrate this significant milestone, the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition stands as a testament to an extraordinary journey of shared values and exceptional craftsmanship. Every meticulously crafted detail invites admiration for the delicate interplay of time and artistry, embodying a harmonious expression of enduring elegance.

The 3-piece limited CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition will be available at Sincere Fine Watches Boutiques with a retail price of SGD $280,000 (including GST).

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: Astronomical Masterpieces

 Model: CVDK GRAND PLANETARIUM ECCENTRIC Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Yellow Gold CM15000

Manufacture movement

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Uni-directional automatic winding, power reserve 60 hours, free sprung hair
spring, variable-inertia balance wheel, 32 Jewels, frequency 21.600 vibrations/hour (3Hz), jeweled swiss lever escapement, star shaped bridges with hand circular finishing,  frosted star decoration with rhodium plating, perlage decoration and rhodium plating on main plate, skeletonized rose gold-plated brass rotor formed in the shape of the CVDK logo, rhodium plated tungsten weight on outside diameter of rotor.
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds - by rotating sun logo in the center, date indicator, zodiac sign indicator.
Complication; Eccentric Planetarium; it is the only mechanical Planetarium watch in the world that displays all 8 planets, showing the orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune
around the Sun.
Case
Yellow gold ø 41.1 mm, 
domed sapphire crystal engraved with signature index
Sapphire crystalcase-back.
Water Resistance 50 Meters
Dial
Universe-inspired, oil painted dial by artist Gaël Colon
Hands
Yellow gold-plated hands
Strap
Ostrich foot leather
Buckle: Yellow gold folding clasp with CVDK logo.

🔰Edition ✅ Only ❱❱❱ 3 Piece

🔴 Price SGD $280,000💰  

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Press release - 2024
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Address
Christiaan van der Klaauw b.v.

Businesspark Friesland-West 47
8447 SL Heerenveen
The Netherlands
T +31 (0) 513 - 62-49-06
vanlaar@klaauw.com
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