GIRARD-PERREGAUX – BRIDGES La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition 2021
The equine mystery
La Esmeralda is the famous prize-winning pocket watch made for the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1889. This legendary pocket watch blended extraordinary precision with several artistic crafts.
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Birth of a legend
During the 19th century, ‘Universal Exhibitions’ were held, showcasing the latest technological advances of their day. Various nations would participate and the most meritorious exhibits won prizes, medals and distinctions. While other countries would also go on to host world expositions, Paris proved a particularly popular venue for such events, hosting the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1855, 1867, 1878 and 1889.
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The watch, ultimately called ‘La Esmeralda’, was sold to Porfirio Diaz, then president of Mexico (1830-1915). In 1970, a descendent of the president offered the Manufacture the opportunity to purchase the watch and it now forms part of the Maison’s museum collection.
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A re-interpretation of the legend. An eternal charm.
This year, as Girard-Perregaux celebrates its 230th anniversary, the Manufacture is pleased to unveil La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition, a wristwatch employing the Maison’s legendary watchmaking know-how as well as encompassing an array of artistic crafts, executed to an exceptional standard. This latest creation re-interprets the design of the legendary 1889 ‘La Esmeralda’ pocket watch and references many of its extraordinary refinements. However, it is not a facsimile of what has gone before, but a tasteful homage to Constant Girard’s prize-winning watch of yesteryear. It is perfectly in tune with the expectations of a modern-day audience but respects La Esmeralda and seeks to capture its eternal charm.
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Familiar but different
Three gold bridges span the dial, similar to those fitted to La Esmeralda of 1889. However, on this latest model, Girard-Perregaux has once again made the invisible visible by bringing the horses engraved on the back case of the original pocket watch up to centre stage of this new timepiece. Indeed, two hand-engraved galloping horses form the right and left ends of the barrel bridge and tourbillon bridge. Each bridge is painstakingly finished and features concave bevelling, mirror-polishing, flanks with horizontal ‘traits-tirés’ and rounded off arms. It requires 40 hours to finish all three bridges, while the additional engraving found on the barrel bridge and tourbillon takes an extra 50 hours to complete.
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As its name implies, the watch is fitted with a secret cover. By pressing the crown pusher, the secret cover opens, revealing the self-winding movement, the Calibre GP09600-1506. Beneath the secret cover, the mainplate is fitted with a motion-work bridge and marking plate. Both are made from pink gold and incorporate traits-tirés and hand-polished angles, thereby emulating the shape of the famous Gold Bridges. The motion-work bridge is marked ‘secret’. The inside of the hinged secret cover is hand-engraved with various inscriptions, albeit these can be personalised on request.
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The dauphine-type hour and minute hands are formed of pink gold and circumnavigate an intricate and beautifully appointed dial. Beyond its three iconic bridges and the aforementioned guilloché dial, the watch is endowed with several additional delights for the delectation of purists. The central area of the dial and mainplate is recessed, accommodating the barrel, centre wheel and tourbillon cage. A rhodium plated barrel sits in the upper portion of the dial and features golden engraved text. This detail recalls the text found on the barrel of the original La Esmeralda, declaring the model’s patented status. A white gold micro-rotor sits beneath the barrel, out of sight, energising the mainspring with minimal user input.
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A tourbillon cage is positioned in the lower portion of the dial. Made using state-of-the art technology, the lyre-shaped cage, comprised of 78 components, weighs just 0.3g. This low mass helps mitigate power-consumption, contributing to the model’s power-reserve of at least 50 hours. A blued steel hand is affixed to the tourbillon cage and serves as a small seconds display.
Hand-engraving
The pink gold case is totally hand-engraved, honouring the skilful work of Fritz Kundert, the artisan tasked with engraving La Esmeralda in the 19th century, as well as the dedication and skill of the modern-day artisans of La Chaux-de-Fonds.
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An eternal beauty
La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition is introduced as part of the Eternity Edition series, paying homage the eternal beauty of enamel. This contemporary Interpretation has taken use this mCtier d'art one step further than Its historical forebearer, extending the enamelling onto the outer case sides and lugs - all of which has been executed in-house. The enamel comprises a mixture of silica, minium, potash and soda which are ground into a powder. Additional metal oxides are then added to create different coloured enamels.
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The powder is dusted onto the dial and then fired in an oven that typically operates at about 800°C. This process is repeated on 5-10 occasions to achieve the desired lustrous appearance.
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Grand feu enamelling takes much expertise to master, however, even with experience the repeated firings can still result in cracks appearing, air bubbles and colour imperfections. Inevitably, many dials fail to pass muster and are discarded. However, the main benefit of this protracted process is that flawless grand feu enamels dial will retain their colour forever, promising a lasting joy.
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La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition will be offered in seven different colourways, each produced on request for a maximum of eighteen pieces per colour. It is immediately available worldwide through all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers. To further highlight this notable timepiece's unveiling during Dubai Watch Week, Girard-Perregaux will host an intimate event in collaboration with famous calligraphy artist Diaa Allam on 25 November 2021. Over the course of the eveningthe artist will live paint the three horses from the "equine mystery" of La Esmeralda, further highlighting Girard-Perregaux's commitment to craftsmanship and artistry
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Model: BRIDGES La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition
Limited Edition of 18 Timepieces
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Movement
Calibre Number : GP09600-1506
Mechanism : self-winding mechanical
Total Diameter : 32.00 mm (14 1/4''')
Height : 7.68 mm
Frequency : 21,600 Vib/h - (3Hz)
Number of Parts : 323
Number of Jewels: 31
Oscillating weight : white gold micro-rotor
Power Reserve : min. 50h
Functions
hours and minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, tourbillon
Case
Material : pink gold, engraved and enamelled
Diameter : 43 mm
Case-back :the blue enamelled secret cover reveals a sapphire crystal
Water resistance :30 m
Dial
Hand-guilloché, blue enamel with a sunray motif
Strap
Strap material :alligator leather
Buckle : engraved pink gold triple folding buckle
Edition ❱❱❱ Limited to 18 pieces
PRICE : $ 407,000 USD
Press release - 2021
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