Friday, September 13, 2024

LOUIS MOINET – STARMAN Tourbillon Edition

 

LOUIS MOINETCosmic Art STARMAN Tourbillon Gold Edition - 2024

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 STARMAN
Life in the stars

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“Imagine a watch that shelters the first traces of life ever discovered in the cosmos. It’s a silent messenger, a guardian of the stars, and it was predestined to be called STARMAN.
Among the treasures of my personal collection are meteorites that have fascinating stories. One in particular, the Jbilet Winselwan, is noted for the presence of amino acids, molecules that are considered the building blocks of life itself. I was fascinated by these traces of life in space, so this year I decided to incorporate a fragment of that meteorite in a timepiece with a name that came quite naturally: STARMAN. This watch, which is the product of some remarkable horological techniques, has many other secrets to reveal…
Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director

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The earliest traces of life from the cosmos: Jbilet Winselwan

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A fragment of the Jbilet Winselwan meteorite majestically dominates the upper part of the STARMAN’s dial and competes visually with the tourbillon. This beautiful black stone, spangled with little brown dots, was discovered in the western Sahara Desert. 

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It bears amino acids and is thus a silent witness to the first sparks of life spread throughout the cosmos.

The STARMAN diala highly complex construction

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The STARMAN’s dial is a genuine feat of artistic and technical prowess. Let’s begin with the base cut from the Gibeon meteorite, which fell to earth in prehistoric times and is famous for its emblematic Widmanstätten pattern. 

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The fragment was dyed in a deep blue using an intricate – and secret – process. A second disc made of sapphire crystal features a map of the stars. In the foreground are the constellations carefully painted by hand using a luminescent material. They appear on the backdrop of the map’s longitudinal and latitudinal lines.

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At night, the STARMAN reveals a magnificent stellar panorama, creating an appearance of depth that draws us into the immensity of the universe itself. 

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This nightly display is enhanced by the vibrant blue hands and indexes that provide a touch of technical elegance to this exceptional timepiece.

The solar map and its riddle

Turn the STARMAN around, you will find a fascinating chart of the solar system. 

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The planets, some of which only measure two millimetres in diameter, have been meticulously painted by hand and placed on a grid that seems to float over a star-lit sky.

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The ultimate secret, however, is this: The planets have been precisely positioned as they appeared on March 21, 2013, when the world of watchmaking was stunned by an amazing revelation:  Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph. 

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The public event was held at the Neuchâtel observatory, where Jean-Marie Schaller unveiled the famous compteur de tierces, which had been built by the great French watchmaker in 1816.

The art of horology

The STARMAN defies gravity in a riveting manner thanks to its flying tourbillon in an off-centre cage. The hand-wound movement is equipped with two barrels in parallel. 

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The system, called “volte face,” has one of the barrels turned upside-down or head-to-tail, so they deliver their energy simultaneously, producing a power reserve of ninety-six hours.

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It comes in an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 47.4 millimetres. Its architecture is opulent and complex, mixing brushed and polished surfaces and a stepped bezel that gives it a unique character.

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The STARMAN is available in two editions limited to twelve pieces each, one in 18-carat red gold, the other in 18-carat grey gold.

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  In creating this timepiece, Jean-Marie Schaller delved into the mysteries of the cosmos. 

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It’s a spirited homage to Louis Moinet, a man whose spirit of innovation and exploration is destined to continue resonating into the future.

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Technical Specifications 

 Collection:  Cosmic Art

Model:  STARMAN Tourbillon 

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Ref. LM-139.50.25 - 18K Red gold - Limited edition of 12 watches

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Ref. LM-139.70.20 - 18K White gold - Limited edition of 12 watches

Case
Material: 18-caratred gold 5N or 18K white gold, polished and satinated
Polished and satinated
Diameter: 40.4 mm
Openworked lugs
Domed sapphire crystal glass
Water resistance: 30 metres
Movement
Hand-wound movement with double barrel and flying tourbillon
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Complication    Flying tourbillon
Oscillations: 28,800vibrations per hour
Rubies: 26
Power reserve: 40 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes and Flying tourbillon
Dial
Complex multi-layered dial including:
Gibeon meteorite tinted blue
Sapphire disc with hand-painted stars with luminescent material
Jbilet Winselwan meteorite
Hands: Faceted and skeletonized, with luminescent material
Strap
Material: Louisiana alligator leather | Alligator lining, hand-sewn
Clasp: Gold triple-blade folding clasp

🔰Edition  12 pieces (red gold) and 12 pieces (white gold)

🔴 Price: on Request 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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Thursday, September 12, 2024

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm 2024

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Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is happy to reveal three new references of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 41 mm offering a diversity of materials and aesthetics. Executed in either stainless steel, black ceramic or 18-carat yellow gold, these three models give centre stage to the selfwinding Calibre 3132, whose openworked architecture emphasises the dexterity of Audemars Piguet’s artisans. 

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Two of these timepieces introduce the detailed movement in a new pink-gold tone, for a rich play of light. Combining technical precision with age-old skills, these new iterations will adorn the wrists with elegance and finesse.

THREE CONTRASTED AESTHETICS

The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked line evolves with three new 41 mm models crafted in different materials. Executed in either stainless steel, black ceramic or 18-carat yellow gold, the case and bracelet are decorated with the collection’s distinctive finishing techniques alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces that play on the light and underline the Royal Oak’s geometrical design.

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The openworked movement and inner bezel of the steel and black ceramic variations feature a new pink-gold tone bringing a warm and vivid touch to the watch, while underlining the precision-work of its different components. The eight hexagonal screws on the bezel are also crafted in pink gold and harmoniously echo the hue of the movement. 

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Furthering the visual contrast, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands offer clear readability on the stainless-steel version, while those on the ceramic model are applied in blackened rhodiumFinally, the seconds indication and the “Audemars Piguet” signature are printed in black on the inner bezel. 

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Moreover, the black ceramic reference is engraved with “Limited Edition of 150 Pieces” on its titanium and sapphire caseback.

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Alternatively, the 18-carat yellow gold reference displays a bold aesthetic blending the bright precious material with an anthracite grey openworked movement, enhanced by a matching inner bezel with the seconds scale and “Audemars Piguet” logo printed in white. The yellow gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent material emphasise the two-tone design, while ensuring optimum visibility even in the dark.

A PATENTED MECHANISM

These new models are powered by the Calibre 3132, a selfwinding movement equipped with a double balance wheel mechanism. This patented innovation, released by Audemars Piguet in 2016, provides the watch with enhanced precision and stability. 

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By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony. Visible on both sides of the case, the double balance wheel confers a rare glimpse of the watch’s beating heart. 

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The openworked bridges on either side of the watch reveal some components of the gear train. Their geometries were cut using advanced production technologies, such as computer numerical control (CNC) machining, before being refined into the desired shape. Each component was then finished and decorated using age-old techniques. The polished V-angles reflect the meticulous craftsmanship that went into their creation, as this level of precision can only be achieved by hand.

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The openworked oscillating weight, matching the colour of the case for the steel and yellow gold models or harmonised with the pink gold movement for the black ceramic version, completes the contrasted aesthetic of these three references.

THE DELICATE ART OF OPENWORKING

Combining aesthetics and function, openworking has been an Audemars Piguet specialty since the 1930s. This art consists of removing as much material as possible from the mainplate and bridges to let the light through, revealing the beauty and finesse of the mechanism without compromising functionality. It therefore requires true watchmaking mastery and an in-depth knowledge of materials and finishing techniques.

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Audemars Piguet 1997. Royal Oak "Jumbo" Openworked 14814BA. Calibre 2120SQ, Movement 367889, entirely openworked and gilded. Bracelet 944. Hands set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Case D93405, 39 mm. 18-carat yellow gold.

In the early 1970s, a handful of young Audemars Piguet watchmakers, encouraged by their elders, decided to rediscover the art of openworking, which had fallen into disuse after the 1950s, and set up the brand’s first workshop dedicated to this technique. The visionary Georges Golay, then Director of Audemars Piguet, set the artisans an ambitious challenge: to create 100 openworked examples of the Calibre 2120, a meticulous task requiring 150 hours of work for each movement. The first watch (Model 5442) was delivered in November 1973, followed by thirty more between then and 1976. In 1978, the Manufacture produced 300 openworked timepieces powered by Calibre 2120. By 1984, the workshop employed a dozen craftspeople.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET – 1976.-Selfwinding-openworked-Calibre-2120SQ.

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In the early years of the Royal Oak collection, the calibres remained hidden inside the cases. It was the advent of quartz that redefined the watchmaking codes, prompting the industry to showcase the beauty of mechanical movements and the traditional skills required to create them. Openworking first appeared in 1981 in the form of a pendant for the Royal Oak collection (Model 5710BA), followed in 1986 by the Model 25636, which was equipped with Calibre 2120/2800, an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement. However, it was in the 1990s, a decade characterised by an abundance of Royal Oak models of all shapes and sizes, that this refined art found its true place in the collection, making its debut in the “Jumbo” line in 1992.

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Over the decades, the Royal Oak collection has grown to include some fifty openworked references, each powered by different movements and available in a variety of sizes, materials and styles, all reflecting years of passion and expertise handed down from generation to generation. Today, these 41 mm novelties breathe new life into this meticulous art, combining it with a distinctly contemporary aesthetic.

Seek Beyond.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked - 41 mm


MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 3132

Total diameter 26.6 mm (11 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 5.6 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 245
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 45 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds.

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 Reference   15407ST.OO.1220ST.02
🔴 Price : 66 500 CHF


CASE
Stainless steel case.
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Pink gold-toned inner bezel, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 Reference   15407BA.OO.1220BA
🔴 Price : 88 000 CHF

CASE
18-carat yellow gold case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Blackened inner bezel, yellow gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
18-carat yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 Reference 15416CE.OO.1225CE.02  Limited Edition of 150
🔴 Price : 88 000 CHF

CASE
Black ceramic
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50m.
DIAL
Rhodium-toned openworked movement, hour-markers set with pink gold-toned baguette-cut
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50m.
DIAL
Pink gold-toned inner bezel, blackened rhodium applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
Black ceramic bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 New Product Overview 2024

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Press Release - 2024
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1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Albishorn x Massena LAB – Maxigraph Monopusher Chronograph Edition

Albishorn x Massena LAB MAXIGRAPH 1939 Monopusher Chronograph Edition 2024

 Imaginary history
The missing regatta chronograph from the 1930s

Massena LAB partners with the new independent watchmaker Albishorn for the release of a new collaborative timepiece, the Maxigraph, a true tool watch and regatta timer inspired by the rich history of nautical timepieces and of the city of Geneva itself. Harking back to the first edition of the now legendary regatta race, Le Bol d’Or, first held on Lac Léman in 1939, the Maxigraph is the creation of an imagined history: how might a modern-day regatta chronograph have looked in the 1930s?

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Albishorn, making its debut at Geneva Watch Days 2024, is an independent Swiss watchmaker that blends (and bends) horological history to craft original and distinctive timepieces, drawing inspiration from vintage pieces. Albishorn’s concept of “imaginary vintage” (®) guides its approach to watchmaking as it strives to create timepieces which echo the past without replicating them directly; aiming instead to explore imagined, and exciting, parallel histories.

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Originating as pocket watches, regatta chronographs were first crafted to meet the demands of regatta competitors seeking precise timing mechanisms for their nautical races. The evolution from pocket watch to wristwatch was a significant milestone, and, over time, regatta timers evolved to become water and shock-resistant. Curiously, all the technical requirements for a modern-day water-resistant chronograph were available by the end of the 1930s but were never applied to the regatta timer. The Maxigraph imagines what might have been, if horological history had only been slightly bent. 

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The answer is the Maxigraph, a hypothetically historical timepiece; crafted with precision (and a touch of madness), which, in our imagined history, may have been commissioned by the owner of sailboat, such as the Ylliam IV, the six meter sailboat that was the winner of the first edition of Le Bol d’Or in 1939. With the Maxigraph in hand, the crew of the sailboat would have had the help of a precise and durable tool during the most critical phase of the race: the countdown to start.

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At the start of Le Bol d’Or, a regatta which takes place on Lac Léman starting in Geneva and ending in Le Bouveret, a horn signals the countdown to the start of the race. At this point, the crew of the sailboat must hold their position, a strenuous task while sailing in front of an invisible start line that cannot be crossed without risking a severe penalty. At the end of the ten minutes, guided precisely by the regatta timer of the Maxigraph, the crew must immediately set sail, beginning their race. 

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The Maxigraph is a monopusher chronograph with an automatic, Swiss-made, proprietary caliber with a patented ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown, which is positioned at 7 o’clock on the dial. Unlike a typical regatta timer, which restarts endlessly when the countdown is over, the Maxigraph’s timer stops once ten minutes have elapsed while the seconds of the chronograph continue running. The countdown is reset by stopping and resetting the chronograph using a single, red aluminum pusher at 9 o’clock, the optimal position for a precise click of the pusher using one’s thumb, considered the best digit for operating a chronograph.

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The silver dial of the Maxigraph was designed with a focus on legibility and functionality. Each scale has its own place, finish, and color, resulting in an original and modern sector dial which references the timepieces of the 1930s. An aperture for a colorful running indicator is located at four o’clock, and Super-LumiNova® provides luminosity to the hour and minute hands. Super-LumiNova® is also integrated subtly on the dial on two scales during hours when low light is typical: one arc spanning from 18 to 24 o’clock, and another from 12 to 6 o’clock.

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The stainless steel case of the Maxigraph measures 39mm and features a 41mm bidirectional rotating bezel in stainless steel. Its crown is located at 10 o’clock, remaining clear of obstructions during crucial maneuvers. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, making it a perfect companion for a day on the water. 

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 William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, said “working with Sébastien Chaulmontet on the design of the Maxigraph has been a real joy. Sébastien and I have known each other for many years, and not only is he an absolute expert in the field of watchmaking, but he is also a bit of a renaissance man in his own right. We at Massena LAB are proud to stand side by side with him as he launches his own line, Albishorn, and we are excited to unveil the Maxigraph here at Geneva Watch Days.”

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The challenge was to develop a regatta chronograph that would be period correct and aligned with the requirements and expectations of navigators, while being fully original. That’s how the Maxigraph chronograph was born: a mono-pusher nautical chronograph, featuring a unique and innovative design and a patented regatta function.

 Dial

The silver dial of the Maxigraph was designed with a focus on legibility and functionality. Each scale has its own place, finish, and color, resulting in an original and modernist sector dial. This very specific dial layout is unique and pays tribute to precision instruments from that era.

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Night readability is ensured by luminous material (Super-LumiNova®) subtly integrated within two different scales. The first arc of luminous material runs from 18 to 24 o’clock, while the second, larger arc, runs from 12 to 6 o’clock. The hands are filled with luminous material too, allowing for easy reading in low-light conditions.

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To guarantee excellent legibility and unlike any other mechanical chronograph wristwatch, the Maxigraph boasts a patented 10-minute retrograde regatta countdown at 7 o’clock and an aperture at 4 o’clock showcasing colored disc acting as a running indicator.

Case

While being automatic, the Maxigraph remains sleek with only a 13 mm height (box sapphire crystal included). Made of stainless steel, the case of the Maxigraph reflects a seamless blend of robustness and elegance. 

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The alternance of brushed and polished surfaces provides a subtle contrast, accentuating the watch's overall presence. All edges of the case have been chamfered and polished, offering a sophisticated haute horlogerie aesthetic.

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The back is adorned with a technical drawing inspired by Ylliam IV, the 6 Meter rule boat which won the Bol d’Or in 1939.

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One of the standout features of the Maxigraph is its stainless steel turning bezel. It was designed to rotate in a bidirectional manner and features two different engraved scales (12 and 60 units) which are then filled with either red or black lacquer.

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Positioned at 10 o’clock, the crown allows for easy winding and time setting while keeping it clear of any obstructions during crucial maneuvers. Adjacent to the crown, at 9 o’clock on the case side, is a red aluminum pusher, discreetly integrated into the case design. 

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This location allows the pusher to be operated by the thumb, the finger considered the best one for operating a chronograph. The large size of the pusher simplifies the operation and adds a touch of uniqueness to the watch.

Movement

The Maxigraph incorporates a refined and reliable proprietary automatic mono-pusher chronograph movement, expertly crafted in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Once fully wound, it offers an astounding 64 hours of power reserve.

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The movement was designed as a mono-pusher chronograph, therefore featuring a single button to control all the chronograph functions (start, stop, and reset) rather than the more common two-pusher system.

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A further standout attribute of the Maxigraph’s movement is its remarkably low height for an automatic chronograph of only 6.60 mm, enabling the production of particularly thin chronographs like in the 1930s and 1940s.

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Albishorn specifically developed this movement to showcase the brand's distinctive and unique dial layout, featuring a patented 10-minute retrograde regatta countdown at 7 o’clock and an aperture for a running indicator at 4 o’clock.

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Unlike typical regatta chronograph countdown indications, which restart endlessly the countdown once it is over, the one from the Maxigraph was designed to stop once the 10 minutes are over, while the seconds of the chronograph continue running. To reset the countdown indication, the chronograph has to be stopped and reset using the pusher at 9 o’clock.

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Sébastien Chaulmontet, founder of Albishorn, added: “I am proud and honored to launch my brand, starting with a collaboration with William. Our friendship and common passion for watches have driven us to create something truly special. Together, we have combined our tastes and expertise to develop a unique timepiece that embodies our shared vision and dedication to craftsmanship.”

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The Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph launches on MassenaLAB.com on Thursday September 12, 2024, and is available for viewing by appointment only at Geneva Watch Days. Watches will be produced and delivered in very small batches of about twenty-five watches each, starting in September.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

🤝 COLLABORATIONS  

COLLABORATIONS Collection: WATER

Model:  Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph 1939 Monopusher Chronograph Edition

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Produced in small quantities of about 25 watches per batch

Case
    Material:  316L stainless steel case with polished and satin finished surfaces and with chamfered and polished
edges
    Diameter: 39mm case; 41mm with bezel
    Thickness: 13mm
    Lug to lug: 47.7mm
    Crystal: Box sapphire crystal with antireflexive coating
    Stainless steel winding crown with engraved Albishorn logo
    Pusher in red anodized aluminum
    Crown at 10 o'clock, red aluminum monopusher at 9 o'clock
    Case back: Engraved with a technical drawing inspired by the Ylliam IV six meter sailboat, the winner of the first Le Bol d'Or, held on Lake Geneva in 1939
    Water-resistant to 100 meters
    Bezel  Bidirectional rotating bezel in stainless steel with engraved and black or red lacquered numerals
    Double scale: 60 and 12 units
    Bezel diameter: 41.7 mm
Dial and hands
   White and silver sector dial with white Super-LumiNova®
   Blued hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®
   Red chronograph second and minute hands
   Colored disc as running indicator
   Regatta timer at 7 o’clock, running indicator at 4 o’clock. 
   60 seconds counter in the center
Movement
    Proprietary chronograph caliber ALB01 A.
    Self-winding caliber, monopusher chronograph
    Height: 6,60 mm
    Diameter: 30,00 mm
    Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
    Stop second device
    Typical power reserve of 64 hours
    25 jewels
Functions/Indications
    Hours, minutes
    Monopusher chronograph with patented ten-minute countdown regatta timer
    Running indicator by disc
    60 seconds counter in the center
    Patented retrograde 10-minute regatta function
 Strap and buckle
    Red rubber with stainless steel Albishorn logo buckle
    Watch delivered with additional strap in white calfskin also with Albishorn logo buckle
    Lug Width: 20mm

🔰Limited Edition of 25 pieces

🔴Recommended retail price: USD 4,995 / CHF 4,250

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ABOUT MASSENA LAB  

Massena LAB, founded by noted watch collector and industry veteran William Massena, is a creative horological studio that designs, develops, and produces timepieces, often in collaboration with respected watchmakers from around the world. Massena LAB exists to be a reference point of horological culture and to play an integral part in its constant evolution, using elements of style from the past to enhance the future of watchmaking.   
It aims to create and nurture a community of informed watch enthusiasts with a passion for novel timepieces from independent watchmakers. The “LAB” in Massena LAB is a combination of two words: “laboratory,” for our willingness to experiment and our embrace of new ideas, and “collaboration,” for our fruitful, long-standing relationships with our partner brands.  


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       ABOUT  Albishorn - Imaginary Vintage®

Welcome to Albishorn, the independent Swiss watchmaker that builds vintagewatches that never were.We create original and unique mechanical timepieces that can be seen as “missinglinks”. 

They fit seamlessly into the history of watchmaking but clearly have a characterof their own. We create what we call “imaginary vintage” watches.Ever wondered about the fictional forerunner of the renowned “Type 20” chronographused by the French military? Meet the “Type 10”, a creation of our fantasy at Albishorn(coming in October 2024)!This approach reflects our primary commitment to creativity and imagination. Weidentify designs and concepts that could have perfectly complemented classic watchesof the past but were never brought to life. What about a chronograph that marries theelegant appearance of a skin diver to a novel and patented regatta display? 

We havepioneered this new genre with the Marinagraph®, making it the perfect companionfor maritime adventures (coming in 2025).Sébastien Chaulmontet, Albishorn's head, shares: "I love searching for one-of-a-kindwatches, prototypes, and those that challenge conventions—a homage to the endless creativityof our watchmaking ancestors. These elusive timepieces often unveil glimpses of what couldhave been. They fuel my imagination and make me dream of timepieces that I would have lovedto exist but were never actually made. Albishorn is committed to create these unique watches."Upholding Swiss craftsmanship in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, our skilled teamblends tradition with innovation. 

Albishorn ensures the highest Swiss qualitystandards, using premium materials to create watches that are not only beautifullydesigned but also reliable companions for generations.Each Albishorn timepiece captures the spirit of a bygone era, mirroring the charm anddetails of vintage watches while embracing modern watchmaking technology. Weactively pursue original dial layouts and displays, complemented by our distinctiveproprietary mechanical calibers. These movements often showcase patentedcomplications, further enhancing the uniqueness of our watches.

Step into the world of Albishorn and join us on a horological journey. Discoverwatches that complement vintage history, enhancing your collection with uniquepieces that transcend time.We hope that you will enjoy wearing our watches as much as we did making them.
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