ARNOLD & SON – UTTE Tourbillon

ARNOLD & SON - Instrument UTTE Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

Three New References of Arnold & Son’s Exceptional Ultra-thin Tourbillon

Arnold & Son unveils three new references of the UTTE. Two references featuring stunning mother-of-pearl dials and a third reference with a black lacquered dial. Each new reference of the UTTE houses the A&S8200 movement measuring just 2.97 mm thick and the final cased watch a mere 8.34 mm. The calibre A&S8200 was developed designed and manufactured entirely in house at the brand’s La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops.

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The UTTE is part of Arnold & Son’s Instrument Collection, wherein timepieces are easily identified by their dial design, with off-center position of the hours and minutes to allow for the display of other complications without one overlapping the other. The UTTE follows this design aesthetic, with the spherical tourbillon occupying the lower portion of the dial. The alluring, timeless lines of the stepped 42 mm case, which tapers from the top to the bottom, imbue this watch with an austere elegance.

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UTTE
Arnold & Son ultra-thin tourbillon manufacture movement A&S8200, one-minute flying tourbillon, hand-wound,
black lacquered and silvery opaline dial, palladium case, diameter 42 mm
© Arnold & Son

The dial of the UTTE has a complex multilevel structure with different finishes that offer breathtaking depth and dimension. The three new references share the same dial design but with different finishes and materials in order to complement the respective case material. The first palladium reference has a Tahiti mother-of-pearl and silvery opaline dial and the second palladium reference has a stunning black lacquered and silvery opaline dial. The new 18-carat red gold reference has a white mother-of-pearl and silvery opaline dial.

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The UTTE is a masterful demonstration of elegant design and superb technical prowess. The ultra-thin A&S8200 movement – and the ultimate UTTE watch – is the result of several years of research and development, and boasts important features and functions.

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A&S8200
Exclusive Arnold & Son ultra-thin tourbillon movement A&S8200, one-minute flying tourbillon,
Haute Horlogerie finishing, tourbillon cage diameter 14 mm, tourbillon cage finishing: satin-finish
with hand-chamfered and polished edges
© Arnold & Son

In fact, when the brand embarked on the creation of an additional tourbillon, Arnold & Son’s team of watchmakers and engineers determined that the end result should possess unique features that would set it apart in the watch world: It had to be at the same time thin, boast a big and three-dimensional tourbillon cage and have a long power reserve.

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Utilizing the most cutting-edge technology, Arnold & Son pushed the creative envelope to achieve this goal - thus developing an exceptional timepiece. The UTTE has a movement that is just 2.97 mm thick and a case thickness of only 8.34 mm, making the UTTE one of the thinnest tourbillon watches on the market.

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Additionally, while the movement diameter is 32 mm, the tourbillon cage is a massive 14 mm in diameter – thus occupying almost half of the movement space for impressive visual appeal. To add further dramatic beauty to this already impressive watch, Arnold & Son created a totally spherical tourbillon cage – one devoid of any flat surfaces – for a magnificent three- dimensional aesthetic effect.

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In fact, the flying tourbillon cage is not inset into the calibre, but instead rises out of the movement, through the dial, and achieves the same height as the hour and minute hands. With an eye toward every detail, and the desire for harmonious appeal, the watchmakers removed all visible screws so the spherical tourbillon cage appears beautifully balanced. The only visible screws are on the regulator.

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Finally, to ensure a long power reserve of at least 90 hours, the brand implemented two barrels to offer more constant force and unprecedented power reserve for an ultra-thin tourbillon.

The UTTE references are created in either 18-carat red gold or palladium (a rare alloy in the watch world). Each movement is finished in a colour to complement the case colour, and each features a different Côtes de Genève pattern. The 18-carat red gold reference houses the movement treated in rhodium and decorated with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes.

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 In addition the tourbillon bridge of this reference is entirely hand-engraved by Arnold & Son’s master engraver. The palladium UTTE references house a NAC grey treated movement decorated with a straight Côtes de Genève pattern for a bold, contemporary appeal.

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Historical Context

The visionary UTTE is the perfect embodiment of a tourbillon escapement – a Haute Horlogerie complication that played a crucial role in Arnold & Son’s History. Arnold & Son can easily be considered the father of modern marine timekeeping. Because of its technical superiority in watchmaking, Arnold & Son developed and produced chronometers that solved the 18th-century problem of determining longitude at sea (also, thereby establishing themselves as official suppliers to the Royal Navy).

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John Arnold and A.-L. Breguet, silver cased chronometer with tourbillon and spring-detent escapement,
London, England, 1774 and Paris, France, 1808
© The Trustees of the British Museum

Clearly one of the greatest watchmakers in history, John Arnold shared his knowledge and passion with Abraham-Louis Breguet. Evidence of their partnership is Breguet’s first ever tourbillon cage (No 169) mounted in John Arnold’s No. 11 movement, a watch that can be found today in London’s British Museum.

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Technical Characteristics

Ref. 1UTAR.M01A.C120A,  white mother-of-pearl, 18-carat red gold case
Ref. 1UTAG.M02A.C121G, Tahiti mother-of-pearl, palladium case
Ref. 1UTAG.L01A.C121G, black lacquered, palladium case

Calibre:                                  
A&S8200
Exclusive Arnold & Son ultra-thin mechanical movement,
One-minute flying tourbillon, hand-wound, 29 jewels,
Diameter 32 mm, thickness 2.97 mm,
Tourbillon cage diameter 14mm,
Power reserve over 90 h, 21’600 vibrations/h
Functions:
Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Movement decoration:
18-carat red gold case models:
nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing:
unique hand-engraved tourbillon bridge,
hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes,
circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges,
blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.
Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges.
Movement decoration:
palladium case models:nickel-silver movement, NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing:
hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève,
circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges,
screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.
Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges. 
Dial:  
white mother-of-pearl and silvery opaline or Tahiti mother-of-pearl and
silvery opaline or black lacquered and silvery opaline
Case:   
18-carat red gold or palladium,
diameter 42 mm,
cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
see-through sapphire case back
water-resistant to 30 m
Strap:
hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather

Limited edition of 50 timepieces

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Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@arnoldandson.com
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Maîtres du Temps – CHAPTER Three MIDNIGHT BLUE Gold

Maîtres du Temps – CHAPTER Three MIDNIGHT BLUE Gold Limited Edition NEW

Introduction:
At first he was attracted by the deep black color of the dial. By slightly tilting the watch the light was reflected in the complex decorations; giving the dark color shades of midnight blue.

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The very classic esthetics of the dial were in fact hiding an astonishing complication. By pressing the pusher on the crown, the two concealed dial panels positioned at 12 and 6 hours were lowered at first and then they smoothly slide under the dial thus revealing two new time indications. At 6 hours he could now see a cylinder indicating a second time and at 12 hours on another cylinder, the smiling face of the sun.

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By pressing again on the pusher of the crown the two dial panels repositioned themselves perfectly and flush on the dial so the secret was again well hidden. It was the first time he saw such a mechanism and he played delightfully opening and closing several times the dial panels.
The Chapter Three met exactly his taste as he loved classical and innovative high end horology. At the same time this watch was an ideal partner to accompany him on his long trips where, lost between the cities and the time differences, he needed to know his home time.

Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie -  is very proud of the Chapter Three because for the first time, a watch model is manufactured entirely in our workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds using developments that are both highly technical and innovative. As with every Chapter a specific movement was designed for this timepiece.

For this new execution of the Chapter Three, special attention was given to the color of the dial. The deep black color emphasizes the classical esthetic of the watch and the beauty of the guilloche finish. This new dial complements the choice of the existing silver and anthracite versions.

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Collection Chapter Three: reveal the time
The ingenious mechanism of the opening of the dial becomes the DNA of the Chapter Three. A pusher on the center of the crown allows to lower two concealed dial panels of the dial in order to reveal two additional and hidden time indications: a second time zone indication (also known as GMT) and a Day/Night indicator, both displayed on cylinders, the signature feature of Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie. The elegant sophistication has never reached such a level before.

The Movement: a technical prowess
Starting from scratch in designing the movement has allowed integrating the cylinders within the caliber rather than just adding a module needing much more space. The high precision conical gears improve the distribution of power and the reliability of the different mechanisms. The tailor made architecture of the movement also includes the opening and closing mechanism of the revealing dial panels.

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Incorporating this mechanism into the movement rather than the case allows for the complete optimization of reliability without increasing its. But a rich display associated with a distinguished elegance is not sufficient: an outstanding watch must also be a precise timepiece.

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For this purpose the movement is regulated by a Straumann escapement which is equipped with a low mass and energy efficient escape lever and a balance spring with Breguet overcoil improving the isochronism.

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The Dial: beauty of the guilloche
The Chapter Three is a timepiece displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date and moon phase all set on a sumptuous guilloche dial in an elegant round 18K gold case.

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When the concealed panels are positioned flush on the dial, the hour and minute hands are completed by a small second counter at 8 hours harmoniously counterpoised by a date counter at 2 hours and at 4 hours by a moon phase indicator representing the shadow of the Earth passing over a photo realistic moon. The small counters of the second and date indicators are subtly enhanced by a guilloche “Clous de Paris” and are identified by small and neat name plates.

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The opening and closing mechanism is a complication in itself. When the dial is closed a light pressure on the pusher in the crown lowers the panels below the level of the dial, and then releasing the pusher the same disappears below the dial unveiling the cylinders of the second time zone and the Day/Night indicator. A new pressure of the pusher creates an inverted rotation of the panels and resets them in the initial position before making them rise flush with the dial when releasing the pusher.

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The hands in 18K solid gold and large Roman Indicies are placed on the magnificent dial which is finely guilloche with a sunray design.

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Indication on high precisions cylinders: the time indication is not flat anymore
The high precision cylinders are the esthetical and technical signature of all timepieces of Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie. They have to be very resistant and extremely light in weight so as to optimise the functioning of the movement.

In order to maximize the readability the second time indicator positioned in the lower part of the dial is displayed on two separate cylinders: the hours 1 to 6 on one and 7 to 12 on the other one. In the transition of the cylinders (forward and backward) between 6 and 7 and 12 and 1, the cylinder which is not used moves horizontally out of view giving space to the other cylinder.

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This innovative and unique mechanism is patented. Using two cylinders instead of just one means that only 6 figures have to be engraved on the circumference of the cylinder and this offers the possibility for the figures to be twice as large and therefore twice as easy to read.

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The cylinder for the Day/Night indication, which is positioned on the upper part of the dial, requires a 30 days manufacturing cycle. This very demanding manufacturing process goes through high precision machining, lining of hybrid ceramic, polishing, colouring of the sunrays and the stars through a galvanic process and finally hand painting of the faces of the Sun and the Moon.

A new page of the Chapter Three is written and the story continues….. 

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Technical Specifications

Model: CHAPTER Three MIDNIGHT BLUE Gold

References:  C3R.00.00.106 Chapter Three Midnight Blue White Gold
References:  C3R.55.00.106 Chapter Three Midnight Blue Red Gold

Central hours and minutes, small seconds, date, moon phase, concealed second time zone on cylinder, concealed Day/Night on cylinder, manual winding mechanical movement.
Displays
Central hour and minute hands
Small seconds at 8 o’clock
Date on sub-dial at 2 o’clock
Moon phase at 4 o’clock
Concealed Day/Night on cylinder at 12 o’clock
Concealed second time zone on cylinder at 6 o’clock
Caliber SHC03
Manual winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 35.6 mm x 8.2 mm (inclusive of dial opening mechanism)
Number of components: 319
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: 36 hours
Dual mainspring barrels in series
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever
Finishing: Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, and polished screw heads
Case
18K gold
Number of components: 49
Dimension: 42mm
Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating
Shaped pusher: desynchronizes cylinders from time indication when setting second time zone
Crown: 3 positions plus pusher
       Position 0: Winding
       Position 1: Setting date and moon phase
       Position 2: Setting time
       Pusher: Open/close dial panels
Water resistance: 30 meters/100 feet/3 ATM
Dial
Roman numerals
Sunray guilloche, Clous de Paris guilloche
Hands: 18K gold
Hands
18 K gold hands
Rounded stamped with hand bevelled and polished heads
Bent minute hand
Day and Month High Precision Cylinders
Concealed time zone: dual sliding embossed, aluminum Anticorodal cylinders
Concealed Day/Night: engraved and hand painted
Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K gold tang buckle
* Specifications may change without notice.
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Contact
Maîtres du Temps Sarl
Rue Daniel Jeanrichard 18
CP 926
CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
Téléphone:     +41 32 911 17 17
Fax :        +41 32 911 17 18
presscenter@maitresdutemps.com
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RJ-Romain Jerome – MOON-DNA ORBITER Red Metal Limited Edition

RJ-Romain Jerome – MOON-DNA ORBITER Red Metal Limited Edition NEW

Following the success of the original timepiece, RJ-Romain Jerome introduces the Moon Orbiter Red Metal. With its still generous 49 mm wide, 45 mm long and 20 mm thick bezel-free case, the timepiece is now featured with a new black PVD finish. True to its cosmic origins, the blackened watch case combines steel from the Apollo 11 spacecraft and watchmaking steel.

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Allowing the wearer to see the heart of the watch, RJ-Romain Jerome has designed a case with five perfectly fitted shaped sapphire crystals. This conceptual design gives a complete view of the unique architecture and geometry of the three-dimensional flying tourbillon which is placed at 9 o’clock. 

The mechanical self-winding movement is highlighted by a glass opening on the case-back allowing the understated sharpness of the oscillating weight to be visible. In honour of all sci-fi generations, the brand has designed a flying tourbillon recalling Star Trek’s famous “Enterprise” space vessel: with its main bridges connecting to the circular Starships’ center of command.


























The new Moon Orbiter Red Metal and black-PVD finish case beholds many surprising elements such as Moon dust on the dial of the watch. The hours and minutes are read-off an off-centred 3 o’clock counter. The open-worked hands are red-lacquered matching the 42-hour power reserve cursor which is displayed on a separate sub dial between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

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Fascinating space tales have also been encoded onto the dial of the watch in the shape of various constellation motifs telling their story between the upper lugs at 12 o’clock. One of the most impressive features of the watch is the Moon Orbiter’s lugs. The articulated lugs are composed of an exclusive mechanical jack system that is primarily found in motorbikes. This new patented and innovative system ensures the wearers’ comfort whatever his wrist size.

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This 25-piece limited edition and its new Moon Orbiter Red Metal and black-PVD finish plays a major role in the brand’s strategy to make its key timepieces evolve and pursue the expansion of the Moon-DNA collection by allowing fans to be transported to far away galaxies.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Moon Orbiter Red Metal

Reference: RJ.M.TO.MO.003.01
| Collection Moon-DNA | Universe AIR

Caliber
RJ3000-A
Mechanical self-winding movement – Flying tourbillon
Frequency 28,800 v/h
Jewelling 32 jewels
Power reserve 42 hours
Water resistance 3 atm (30 meters)
Functions
Hours and minutes at 3 o’clock,
flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock,
power reserve at 6 o’clock
Case
44, 5 x 48, 5 mm
Black PVD-coated steel case with elements from the Apollo 11 space shuttle.
Red gold fitted lugs with cylinder system for optimal wrist adjustment.
Dark grey dial containing Moon Dust with laser engraved “stellar-patterned”.
Red gold circular satin-brushed counters.  
Lugs Steel, fitted with cylinder system for optimal wrist adjustment, patented system
Case back Sapphire crystal
Dial
Dark grey dial containing Moon Dust with laser engraved “stellar-pattern” and integrated X-shaped traverses
Hours and minutes hands lacquered in red at 3 o’clock.
Red lacquered power reserve indication at 6 o’clock.
Flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock.
Hands
Rhodium and polished hours and minutes hands with red lacquer.
Red lacquered power reserve indication
Crown Steel screw-lock crown with black rubber
Strap 
Black alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition 25 pieces

*RJ-Romain Jerome reserves the right to change prices without prior notice.
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Ulysse Nardin – Classico Kruzenshtern Limited Edition

Ulysse Nardin – Classico Enamel Kruzenshtern Limited Edition NEW

Saluting the wondrous world of maritime history, Ulysse Nardin honors the Kruzenshtern in its new Classico Collection limited edition enamel cloisonné timepiece.

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Built in Germany in 1926 and originally known as the Padua, the barque, tall ship with its four masts was given to the USSR in 1946 as war reparation, and was integrated into the Soviet Baltic Fleet.

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Consequently, she was renamed Kruzenshtern after the 19th century Baltic German explorer in Russian service, Adam Johann Krusenstern. Her missions, journeys and services are vast, and today, she operates primarily as a training ship.

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To accurately portray her real-time appearance, Ulysse Nardin employed the intensely intricate enamel cloisonné technique – a discipline deeply valued by the manufacturer and its collectors.

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In this method, opaque or translucent colors are derived by mixing proportions of elements to achieve specific combinations, often kept a secret.

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Each section is divided by fine gold wire; more than 500mm of it is needed to make the cloisons. Every cloisonné dial requires 50 hours of artisan expertise and 26 processes to complete.

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Captured on its 40mm-diameter dial is a scene straight from the sea. With blue sky above and crashing waves beneath, the Kruzenshtern slices through the water with fortitude. Snow white sails blow in the breeze, holding onto their masts. Regal in depiction, the artistry is exemplary.

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Handcrafted from 18-karat rose and white gold and powered by the UN-815 caliber, a self-winding movement, the timepiece offers a Chronometer Certificate, a 42-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50 meters.

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Ulysse Nardin is pleased to bring forth another stunning enamel wristwatch for its Classico Collection while paying homage to the treasured Kruzenshtern. Preserving tradition and shaping the future of watchmaking is the Ulysse Nardin way.

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Technical specifications

Model: Classico Kruzenshtern

Reference: 8150-111-2/KRUZ  18ct White Gold Alligator strap
Reference: 8156-111-2/KRUZ  18ct Rose Gold Alligator strap
Reference: 8156-111-8/KRUZ  18ct Rose Gold bracelet

Limited Edition: to 88 pieces

Movement:
Caliber 11½" UN-815,  
Chronometer COSC Certificate
25 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours
Winding: Self-winding
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds
Case:
18ct Rose\White Gold.  
Diameter: 40 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel
Crown: Water-resistant. 
Screw-down security crown.
Water-resistance: 50 m 
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Open case back with sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Dial: Enamel cloisonné, "Kruzenshtern" motif
Strap/Bracelet: 
Alligator strap
Rose gold tang buckle

18 kt gold bracelet

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