Wednesday, November 13, 2024

Andreas Strehler – Faune et Flore Jardin des Papillon - Unique Masterpieces

Andreas StrehlerFaune et Flore Jardin des Papillon Gold or Platinum Hand-Engraved - Unique Masterpieces 2024

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Faune et FloreUnique Masterpieces of the Art of Engraving 

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Sirnach – Engraving, incising a design on a hard, usually flat surface by cutting grooves into it with a burin has existed before us. Already our ancestors, i.e. the ancestors of homo sapiens have known it. Until today, the art has made great progress but the objects, animals and plants, are still a popular subject.

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Andreas Strehler, continuing his floral motives and his papillon motive, is presenting a collection of beautifully hand-engraved watches: The Faune et Flore (fauna and flora) collection. 

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 Each watch a unique masterpiece.

Two masters

As UhrTeil AG, the manufacturing arm of Andreas Strehler, employs Roman Houdek, a master engraver, Andreas had the idea of a collaboration for his own watches to showcase both the engraving skills of Roman and the watchmaking skills of Andreas in a combined creation.

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Floral motives in an abstract form as well as the butterfly bridges are familiar motives on Andreas Strehler watches. This logically led to the creation of the Faune et Flore collection, representing the fauna and flora in miniature works of art in an Andreas Strehler watch.

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In a watch, and not on a watch, as the not only an engraved dial was to put on a watch but the engraving and the watch and in particular the watch movement were to become a unit, one being an integral part of the other.

Creative collaboration

After Andreas' idea and detailed explanations, Roman begins to make the first sketches traditionally by hand. He uses photos of the animals chosen as the motif for the watch’s central bridge and hence its dial as inspiration and as a template. It is important that the proportions and movement of the animals match the living model.

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Once the basic idea has been finalised, the design is worked out on the computer to ensure that the positions of the animals and plants do not cover up important positions for the function of the watch movement. During this time, the collaboration with Andreas is particularly intensive to ensure that the result fulfils Andreas' requirements.

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Once the design has been finalised, a plate of massive 18k Gold with the correct thickness and size to fit inside an Andreas Strehler watch is machined and used as a basis for the engraving. This already has all the precisely drilled holes required for the later placement of the jewels.

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Our master engraver then transfers the contours of the later motifs to this bridge before scribing them with his ‘Spitzstichel’ (pointed burin)

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These light lines serve as markings for the subsequent actual engraving. Using his ‘Bollstichel’ (hollow burin), ‘Flachstichel’ (flat burin), ‘Spitzstichel’ and other burins and tools in different sizes, he first roughly removes the raw material from the blank before turning his attention to the details of the motif. With his experience and talent, he creates a three-dimensional image of nature, turning metal into a living thing, step by step.

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All engravings on the Faune et Flore watches are done entirely by hand; the computer is initially only used to draft the design and to ensure that the correct position of the jewels and therefore the functioning of the watch movement.

Garden of love and beauty

The first watch of the series is the Jardin des Papillons. Obviously, the butterfly, Andreas Strehler’s heraldic animal, had to be the first to be immortalised on an Andreas Strehler watch.

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For Native Americans, butterflies are a symbol of rebirth and transformation and therefore of hope. In the Chinese culture, the butterflies stand for love, beauty, freedom, and the human soul. In the Jardin des Papillon, the butterfly was set in a garden with other animals and floral ornaments to give it a beautiful background and context.  Looking at the finely sculptured landscape full of small animals evokes a garden in summer, with the scent of flowers and the sound of a mild breeze rustling the leaves.

Water and friendship

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With the Étang des Koï, Andreas Strehler changed the element and a bit the continent but remained true to his ideas of design and beauty.

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In the Japanese language, "koi" is a homophone for , a sign which means "love" and "affection". This is the reason why koi are symbols of love and friendship.

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Ornamental koi are also symbolic of the whole Japanese culture and are still closely associated with Japan’s national identity. Well-known are the koinobori called carp streamers. This tradition began in the Edo period (1603–1867) and is still practiced today, when on 5 May, Children's Day, colourful carp-shaped wind-socks made out of paper or cloth flutter in the wind.

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The Étang des Koï evokes a tranquil pond for the koi to live in peacefully, move slowly and invite contemplation and meditation. 

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Standing in a sculptured Japanese garden, looking at the tranquil pond with the sound of a spring gently burbling in the background was the feeling the master engraver brought to live in this masterpiece.

160 Hours – or more

One whole month, or cautiously calculated at 20 working days with 8 working hours, 160 hours is the time it takes to turn bridges at the hand of a master engraver into a living object. 200 plus hours is probably more like it.

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The work of the engraver takes skill and experience and great concentration. 

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A single wrong movement with his burin can irretrievably destroy the work of weeks.

From Papillon d’or to Faune et Flore

These bridges which are tuned into such filigree masterpieces are made in Sirnach, in our own workshop. 

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Like all other parts of the watch except stones, crystals, hairsprings and straps.

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The Faune et Flore movements are specially made for the collection; the movement being a variation of the Papillon d’Or open movement. As always, and as with all watches bearing the name of Andreas Strehler, each component of the Faune et Flore collection is designed, manufactured, finished and assembled in Andreas Strehler’s workshop in Sirnach.

Born free – wildlife without limits

All hand-engraved watches of the Faune et Flore collection are being built on request. The design and all other details are specified between the client, the engraver and Andreas Strehler.

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Within the limits of the art of engraving and Andreas Strehler’s idea of aesthetics, almost any animal, any plant or any other scenery can be the object of an engraving.

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The Jardin des Papillons and Étang des Koï are examples of what can be done. Our clients will have the opportunity to choose gold, rose gold, white gold or other materials for their unique piece of art.

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For watches of the Faune et Flore collection, prices start at CHF 165’000 for a watch similar in its degree of engraving to the Jardin des Papillons or the Étang des Koï.

PS: Andreas will be in New York with this new timepiece on the 18th and 19th October.

For an more information, please visit the press section on www.astrehler.ch or contact info@astrehler.ch.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Faune et Flore

Name: Faune et Flore Jardin des Papillon - Unique Masterpieces

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Movement     
Mechanical manual winding. Massiv 18K gold butterfly bridge
Complication
World smallest differential gear to indicate the power reserve
Power reserve  78 hours, double barrel mainspring
Size     Tonneau shape: 32x30mm, 5.9mm thickness
Frequency     3 Hz / 21’600 A/h
Jewels     27
Movement parts     162

Case     
18K rose gold or platinum
Size     41×47.2mm, 10mm height
Hands   Blue steel
Dial     
In solid gold
Strap     
Black alligator with tang buckle in 18K rose gold or platinum

🔴 Price starting at  CHF 165’000 (excl. VAT and local taxes)💰

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Press release - 2024
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Contact US
Andreas Strehler
Standbachstrasse 26
CH-8370 Sirnach
Switzerland
phone +41 71 966 11 88
fax +41 71 966 11 79
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www.facebook.com - Andreas.strehler.9
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Astrehler.ch

Tuesday, November 12, 2024

De Bethune – Dream Watch DW5 Al-Amal Engraving Titanium Edition

De BethuneDream Watch DW5 Al-Amal Engraving Titanium Edition - Unique Piece - 2024

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   DW5 Al-Amal
A time capsule bearing Love and hope

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De Bethune is creating a one-of-a-kind timepiece for the Mavericks of Time exhibition organised by Ahmed Sediqqi & Sons at the Museum of the Future (MOTF) in Dubai on 9 and 10 November. For this event, celebrating the creativity and boldness of independent watchmaking, the Manufacture is sending a time capsule bearing Love: a universal message of hope for future generations.

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The DW5 was the natural choice for this project that was launched in 2022 at the time of the official museum opening, as much for its futuristic, aerodynamic design as for the creative space its case provides.

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Designed in 2014 as a continuation of research into shapes and materials, the DW5 becomes De Bethune's iconic deltoid motif, an aesthetic code introduced with the first Dream Watch, which establishes a link between the various creations of the independent Manufacture.

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The compact structure of Calibre DB2144V2 developed exclusively for the curved asymmetrical case of the DW5, along with the reduced space devoted to the display of its functions – hours, minutes and spherical moon phases – already illustrated Denis Flageollet's desire for a broader aesthetic playground.

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"The Dream Watch collection is one of De Bethune's mainstays, designed to push the technical and aesthetic boundaries of the wristwatch. As a concept watch, the DW5 allows me to go beyond simple watchmaking. Like a sculpture, the experimental work carried out on titanium is part of an artistic approach inspired by philosophical and personal reflections.” Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and founder.

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Through its choice of materials and finishes as well as the use of original techniques, the DW5 paves the way towards new cultures and concepts, while retaining its identity strongly inspired by aeronautics and space exploration.

DW5 Al-Amal: a wrist sculpture brimming with hope and optimism

Named DW5 Al-Amal, this one-of-a-kind timepiece was inspired by the illuminated calligraphic motifs on the exterior façade of the museum to convey a universal message, like a time capsule sent by humanity. Entirely made of mirror-polished titanium, the case is adorned with engravings representing six distinct Arabic calligraphies of the word ‘Love’.

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Whether friendly, passionate, carnal, spiritual or unconditional, love in Arabic is pronounced and calligraphed in different ways depending on the nuance it adopts. Among the many Arabic words that express this feeling, those evoking ‘Al-Amal’ friendship, desire, the heart, love, passion and faith have been carefully selected. 

These calligraphies pay tribute to an art that elegantly and flowingly transcends mere writing, making words veritable channels of beauty and emotion.

Watchmaking tradition is all about innovation

The art of watchmaking in the 21st century follows in the footsteps of the great master watchmakers of the Age of Enlightenment. 

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Building on a centuries-old culture, it is shaped and forged on a daily basis, continually integrating the scientific and technological innovations of our time into avant-garde creations, driven by De Bethune's distinctive penchant for introducing philosophical concepts with a cultural mission. 

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The Dream Watch collection is the boldest and most accomplished expression of this horological creativity.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Dream Watch

Name: DW5 Al-Amal
Reference : DW5HOB

Movement
Calibre: DB2144V2
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Technical features of calibre DB2144V2
Number of parts: 320
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring De Bethune Patent (2010)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28'800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed-blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium
Case
Material: Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, with 5-axis mechanical engravings representing six Arabic
calligraphies meaning: friendship, desire, heart, love, passion and faith.
Diameter: lenght 58 mm – width 47 mm
Thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in mirror- polished grade 5 titanium with aperture on the
balance wheel
Crown: Mirror-polished and microblasted grade 5 titanium, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium

🔴 Price CHF 240,000 (approximately 1,000,000 AED).

 🔰Edition:  ❱❱❱ Unique Piece

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Press release -- Geneva 2024
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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www.facebook.com - DeBethune
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www.DeBethune.ch

Monday, November 11, 2024

BREGUET – MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum


BREGUETMARINE Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 Platinum 43.9mm Black Dial Version 2024

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 Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
A Grand Complication in platinum armour

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The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, standing as the technical flagship of the Marine collection, embodies a mysterious aura and adopts a solid platinum armour to house its movement, Calibre 581DPE.

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A complication as exceptional as this is mesmerising, the Equation Marchante records the difference between local time - the time that punctuates our daily lives - and solar time - the time dictated by the earth’s rotation relative to the sun. 


Featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, this Marine piece is made in platinum, a rare and durable precious metal renowned for its remarkable resistance to corrosion and enduring brilliance.

Abraham-Louis Breguet, Watchmaker to the Royal Navy

The origins of the contemporary collection trace back to the prestigious title "Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy" awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous workshop in 1775, by Louis XVIII on October 27th, 1815, a year after he was appointed a member of the Board of Longitude.

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BREGUET Marine chronometer N°3196 sold January 14, 1822 to the French Navy

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This distinguished role crowned the revolutionary advances that the master made over four decades and drew on his scientific knowledge acquired during his training with his mathematician Father Joseph-François Marie, as well as renowned watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine. 

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BREGUET simple watch with equation of time3862
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It enabled him to design marine chronometers, indispensable precision tools for astronomical navigation, and to calculate the position of ships in a fleet.

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Montres Breguet's rich heritage, which connects the House to the oceans and navigation, has paved the way for the Marine collection, a family of timepieces with a sporty silhouette and signature aesthetics that clearly evoke the codes of the marine world: a dial decorated with a hand guilloché "wave" motif, a crown guard with an undulating profile, a hand finished with an anchor among other distinctive features.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, ambassador of Breguet expertise

This highly technical timepiece, featuring three mechanical high complications: the running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, - driven by the self-winding Calibre 581DPE, embodies the spirit of innovation that has characterised the brand since its inception.

Equation Marchante

This exceptional complication simultaneously displays the difference between mean solar time (calendar hours and minutes) and true solar time (used since ancient times, it can maximally deviate by up to 14 minutes late or 16 minutes early) thanks to an equation of time cam linked to a feeler to drive the equation lever.

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With the Marine 5887, reading the time is instantaneous thanks to its two minute hands: one Breguet-style with a luminescent tip for calendar time, and the other, finished with a gold plated, diamond polished and fluted ring, for solar time.

Perpetual calendar


Acting like a mechanical diary, this complication indicates the date with an anchor-shaped retrograde hand that follows an arc-shaped scale, graduated from 1 to 31, located in the upper part of the dial. The day, month and leap year are displayed in two open windows at 10.30 and 1.30. This information is detailed in white on a black background for easy legibility.

Tourbillon

Created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented in 1801 to counter the adverse effects of gravity on the running of mechanical movements in pocket watches, features a titanium cage and a Breguet balance-spring made in silicon at around 5 o'clock.  To enhance the functionalities of the Marine Equation Marchante 5887, a blued gauge positioned between 7 and 8.30 o’clock provides information on the level of stored energy available, which amounts to 80 hours when the watch is fully wound.

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An engraved platinum peripheral oscillating weight decorated with a "wave" motif wraps around the hand chiselled back of the calibre 581DPE depicting the silhouette of the Royal Louis, a Royal Navy warship commissioned in 1752. The barrel is decorated with a hand engraved compass rose.

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Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. 

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This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model.  This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock. 

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Guilloché and engraving are delicate arts, executed by hand by exceptional artisans, true masters of their craft. Each pattern is patiently sculpted, each line traced with infinite precision, breathing unique, almost lifelike character into each timepiece. 

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These pieces become much more than mere timepieces: they capture the essence of time and the soul of the artisan, offering a rare luxury — that of wearing an exclusive and inimitable work of art.

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The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes. 

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Since , the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

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 BREGUET Sketches illustrating the installation of Marine chronometers aboard ships
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Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam.

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The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. 

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 It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.

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This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.   

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Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.

Aesthetic poetry: the open sea under the night sky

Presented in 👉 2017, the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 initially featured a 43.9 mm diameter case available in platinum or pink gold with an ultramarine face. 

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 Three years later for the 220th anniversary of the tourbillon, the collection was expanded to include the warm reflections of pink gold combined with a chocolate-coloured dial.

This autumn, Montres Breguet completes the series by choosing the gentle strength of platinum for its fluted case. This precious grey metal is combined with the black hue for the "wave" guilloché dial, evoking the image of an ocean cradled by the silvery glow of the Moon. The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. 

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The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

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At the centre of this image, four hands play a precise role: the stylised pair of Breguet hands with Super-LumiNova® filled tips indicating the hours and minutes, the hand with a golden circle indicating the solar time, and finally the hand with an anchor indicating the date. Raised blackened gold appliques Roman numerals are set on a wide circular-brushed ring, interspersed with luminescent dots and surmounted by gold hour-markers in the shape of nautical pennants.

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A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  MARINE

Model: MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum

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Reference. 5887PT/92/5WV

Case
Case in 950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband. Fluted middle
Sapphire caseback single, internal anti-reflective coating
Wave-shaped crown-guard
Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
43.9mm diameter. 
11.8mm thickness
Water-resistant to 10bar (100m).
Dial
White gold with black finishing, hand-guilloché "wave" motif
Circular brushed silvered hour circle
Black Roman numerals in 18K gold appliqué
Pyramid hour markers in 18K gold and luminescent material
Date with retrograde hand from 9 to 3 o'clock
Applied 18K rhodium-plated gold windows, day at 10.30, month and year at 1.30
Rhodium-plated hands: Breguet tip, in 18K gold faceted, Super-LumiNova® with
blue emission colour (calendar time) - baton, gold plated ring (solar time) - straight,
ship's anchor, retrograde (date) - triangular on tourbillon (months)
Tourbillon opening at 5 o'clock, sapphire crystal
  • Running solar hand with facetted golden sun.
  • Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock.
  • Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock.
  • Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.
  • Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.
Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar, tourbillon,  
 Cal. 581DPE. 16 ½ lines, 563 components,
Numbered and signed Breguet.   
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Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis.
16¾ lignes. 57 jewels.
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns.
Silicon balance spring.
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) Flat silicon spiral
80-hour power reserve
Hand-engraved decorative Royal Louis ship, compass rose 
Tourbillon: titanium cage Grade 5, engraved "MARINE ROYALE" bar Equation of time cam on Tourbillon axis
Indicators
  • Hours, minutes in the centre
  • Minutes (solar time) in the centre
  • Small seconds on the tourbillon
  • Date hand
  • Day, month, leap year in 18K rhodium-plated applied windows
  • Power reserve
Strap
Black textured rubber
Triple-blade 950 platinum folding clasp


Variations
  • 950 platinum case, blue dial (ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, brown dial (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, silver dial (ref. 5887BR/12/9WV)
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  Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024


#Breguet
#breguetMARINE
#MARINEROYALE
#BreguetTourbillon  
#EquationMarchante
#breguet5887
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

  🔴 Price upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Press release - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
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www.Breguet.com