Moritz Grossmann – BENU TOURBILLON Tremblage in Rose Gold & White Gold Edition

Moritz Grossmann – BENU HERITAGE TOURBILLON Tremblage in Rose Gold & White Gold Edition 2024

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The new TOURBILLON Tremblage by Moritz Grossmann stands for the aesthetics of numerous crafting techniques and sophisticated, perfect mechanics

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

A watch made by Moritz Grossmann is the joint work of many talented hands: numerous techniques are practised at the manufactory in Glashütte, resulting in the creation of exceptional timepieces. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The new TOURBILLON Tremblage now demonstrates the expressive power of traditional craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. The centrepieces are the painstakingly crafted dial with a tremblage surface created by hand and the sophisticated tourbillon mechanics. The new model comes in rose gold and white gold versions, each of which is limited to eight watches.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The new TOURBILLON Tremblage by Moritz Grossmann is founded on the visions and abilities of great craftspeople of the past and present. 

 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The watch brings the innovations of outstanding watchmakers of yesteryear and the present day together with the very best finishing and decorating techniques as maintained at the manufactory in Glashütte, the watchmaking town in Saxony.

The dial: staging the mechanics

With absolute devotion, attention is paid both to the watch’s inner workings and its features. The TOURBILLON Tremblage’s dial is one of its special features – a multi-part construction made of German silver in a symmetrical design.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The inner part with tremblage revives a historical technique. It is engraved by hand using a variety of burins: the tools are moved across the metal in a trembling motion, which is also where the name comes from, with the French ‘tremblant’ meaning ‘to tremble’ in English.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The challenge is to achieve an even look, creating an effect which is both rough and matt. In the case of the inner dial of the TOURBILLON Tremblage model, this has been achieved to captivating perfection, as the tremblage surface softens the incident light, making it appear wonderfully matt. The other parts of the dial are matt opaline.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

All the dial parts are subsequently galvanised in ‘black-or’ – an expressive anthracite colour. The processing of the dial, from the engraving to the finishing, requires several days to complete.

The presentation of time

At the heart of the dial visually is the tourbillon, which is flanked by the off-centre hour display at 3 o’clock and a second display at 9 o’clock. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The hands are manually crafted from 750/000 gold in the rose gold version and from polished steel in the white gold version. The shapes of the handcrafted hands hint at their functions: the small second hand is more delicate, while the hour hand is stouter in design. They guarantee reliable time reading.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The fine tip of the minute hand sweeps past the minute scale around the dial’s outer perimeter. As the minute display is interrupted by the aperture for the tourbillon in the lower half of the dial, the minute hand has been extended beyond the centre. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

This counterpart now precisely presents minutes 25 to 35 on a scale. This twofold minute display is likewise a special Moritz Grossmann feature and is patented.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

With its Arabic numerals in white and the very delicately tapered hands crafted at the company’s own manufactory, the TOURBILLON Tremblage showcases the clear aesthetics of the Glashütte precision measuring instruments of the 19th century.

The legacy of great watchmakers

The major personalities whose achievements serve as the basis for this latest innovation go by the names of Moritz Grossmann, Alfred Helwig and Abraham Louis Breguet. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

Grossmann, who founded the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte in 1878, influenced watch manufacture in the 19th century and established a rich watchmaking legacy.  

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Alfred Helwig taught at the German School of Watchmaking in the first half of the 20th century and filed a patent application for the flying tourbillon in 1920. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

As the author of the book Drehganguhren on tourbillons, he inspires the design engineers at the Moritz Grossmann manufactory to this day.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Breguet was at work in Paris even earlier, in the 18th and the early 19th century. He influenced the watchmaking generations that followed with his developments. One of his best-known inventions is the tourbillon – a construction that mounts the escapement in a rotating cage to offset the effects of gravity on the balance. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The tourbillon became a highly respected complication in wristwatches too as it attests to the very height of watchmaking expertise.

A modern version of traditional mechanics

The Moritz Grossmann manufactory unveiled the first calibre with a tourbillon more than ten years ago. It bears the company’s unmistakable signature as the manufactory does not settle for repeating the past, instead creating modern versions of traditional mechanics. This involves handed-down techniques being completely reimagined, such as the construction of the tourbillon in the hand-wound calibre 103.0.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

What was created here was a generously sized oscillator which, influenced by Alfred Helwig, is only mounted on one side. The tourbillon is therefore visually impressive too, especially with its unusually large diameter of 16 millimetres and its reduced aesthetics. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

It additionally boasts a longer cycle time: whereas traditional tourbillons generally turn on their axis once a minute, the Moritz Grossmann construction takes a full three minutes to perform a rotation. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Other features include the filigree cage top resting on just two pillars and the characteristic V-shaped balance bridge, which is protected as a registered design.

Stop-second function with elastic brush made of hair

The cage’s elaborate design with two triangular pillars is the prerequisite for another special construction feature. According to the Grossmann watchmakers’ understanding, the precise mechanics of a tourbillon first call for exact time setting. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

To halt the balance uninterrupted, this stop device needs to avoid the frame pillars. An elastic brush made of human hair can easily glide past the triangular pillar and gently slow the balance down at the rim perimeter. The patented stop solution rounds out the mechanism in keeping with a Grossmann precision timepiece.

The finish: detailed perfection

The devotion with which timepieces are constructed and manufactured at Moritz Grossmann is also seen at the highest level at the decoration stage: each and every component is individually finished by hand. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The plates and the tourbillon cock are finished with hand-engraved Glashütte ribbing, while edges which are bevelled by hand and three-band snailing on the ratchet wheel are especially aesthetic. The polished screws are set in gold chatons and the jewels are white sapphire.

Perfection in white gold and rose gold

The new TOURBILLON Tremblage is premiering in two versions: with a case in rose or in white gold and hands in rose gold or steel. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The rose gold model is worn on a brown alligator leather strap, while the white gold version is combined with a black alligator leather strap. Both versions are limited to eight pieces each.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

  ----------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  BENU

Model: BENU Tourbillon Tremblage Gold Edition

Versions: 

Reference: MG-003617 - Rose Gold

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands:  Handcrafted, 750/000 gold, polished

Limitation    8 watches     🔴 Price : 237 400 € 💰

--------------------------------------------
Reference: MG-003616 - White Gold

 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands:  Handcrafted, polished steel

Limitation    8 watches   🔴 Price :  235 600 € 💰

Movement
Manufacture calibre 103.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
No. of parts:    245 (wheel train 186, cage 59)
No. of jewels:    30, 4 of which in screwed gold chatons (wheel train 17, cage 13)

 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Escapement:    Lever escapement

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Oscillator:     Grossmann three-minute tourbillon with stop seconds; shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Cage diameter:    16.2 mm
Cage speed:    1 revolution in three minutes, anti-clockwise when viewed from dial side
Balance diameter:    14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:   72 hours when fully wound
Functions / features
­    Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending)
­    Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds, replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patent pending)
    Stop seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patent pending)
­    Asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin
­    Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim
­    Newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing
­    Brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum
­    ARCAP train wheels
­    Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the handsetting mode and start the movement
­    Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
­    Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver
­    Hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock
­    Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing
­    3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel
­    Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
­    White sapphire bearing jewels
­    Separately removable clutch winder

Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 white gold to wind the watch and set the time,
pusher in 750/000 white gold to start the movement
Case dimensions: 
Diameter: 44.5 mm, height: 13.8 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
Case
Three-part, in 750/000 white gold
Dial
Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, Arabic numerals printed white Hands:     Handcrafted in 750/000 gold/polished steel
Crystal/display back:    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold

Special features

Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel
and V-shaped balance bridge (protected as a registered design);
central minute display, off-centre display for hours and seconds
with stop-second function, bridging of the scale gap in the minute
dial from 25–35 minutes via a hand extension with separate scale
(patented); stop-second function on balance rim with intervention
by a hair brush (patented); asymmetric-arm lever escapement
with counterweight and lever banking pin; Grossmann balance
with a suspended balance spring and regulation via
poising screws in the balance rim; newly developed jewel bearing
for the barrel; brake ring on the second arbor made of very hard,
oily lignum vitae; movement wheels made of ARCAP; Grossmann
manual winder with pusher to override hand setting and to start
movement; modified Glashütte recoil click; pillar movement with
plate and frame pillars made of untreated German silver; plate and 
tourbillon cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte
ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons
with pan-head screws; white sapphires as jewels; separately
removable yoke winding mechanism

Limitation    8 watches

--------------------------------
Moritz Grossmann Uhren: 

Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she incorporated Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they have created an “Origin of a new time” with their watches. 

-------------------------------
Press release - 2024
-------------------------------

----------------------------------
PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Moritz Grossmann Glashuette
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.Grossmann-Uhren.com

Moritz Grossmann – BENU Date Turquoise Edition

Moritz Grossmann – BENU Date Turquoise Guilloché Dial Edition 2022

 DATE Turquoise – a historic royal craft presented in a cool, new look

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Moritz Grossmann launches a date watch with guilloché dial in the on-trend colour turquoise

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

 • Guilloché dial in turquoise
• Jumping date display
• Peripheral date scale with bracket-shaped date marker
• Limited edition of only 18 pieces worldwide

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The glittering sea, a swimming pool and the ice of a glacier: the colour turquoise is pure inspiration and as such gives rise to positive vibes and a feel-good factor. Jumping into the soothing cool waters of a swimming pool on a hot summer’s day, an alpine panorama with turquoise-blue glaciers or the blue-green sea dappled with sunlight: these are but a few of the associations people make with the trendy colour turquoise.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

With the new expressive DATE Turquoise variant, the independent manufactory Moritz Grossmann presents its successful date model in a new, fresh and yet sophisticated look.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The most eye-catching feature of this watch is its beautiful guilloché dial in turquoise. The special edition, which is limited to a run of 18 pieces, was created in collaboration with exquisite dial manufactory Comblémine by Kari Voutilainen in Switzerland's Val-de-Travers. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The brilliantly iridescent guilloché on the main dial and subsidiary seconds draw the eye and will lend any outfit a special touch – exciting, artistic and very, very cool. The new look is completed by the case made from polished stainless steel, which is another completely new style element for the DATE.

Guilloché – a royal craft

Guilloché is an ancient craft that only a few experts today are still able to master. It has its origins in artistic wood turning and was taught mainly in high aristocratic circles in the 16th-18th centuries.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

A geometric pattern comprising several fine lines is engraved into the dial using a guilloché machine. It is highly demanding work that needs to be carried out with full concentration and excellent visual judgement to ensure consistent depth and spacing between the lines. Only in this way is an impression of perfect regularity crafted. The extremely fine grooves are polished to a high gloss using a diamond, giving rise to fascinating reflections of light.

Dial and hands – an interplay of colour in turquoise and blue

The guilloché pattern on the dial and solid silver subsidiary seconds are furnished with a special coating. Depending on the angle the light falls, it creates a dynamic interplay of subtle turquoise shades that are reminiscent of rays of sun on a shimmering body of water.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The minute scale has been moved slightly inwards, creating space for the complete date scale from 1 to 31. The dial numerals in blue contrast sharply with the light background. The hours and minutes are impressed onto a silver ring in dot form. The combination of the iridescent turquoise of the guilloché and the case made from stainless steel creates a cohesive overall impression of perfectly coordinated colours and shapes.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The lance-shaped hands of the DATE Turquoise are handcrafted and finished in the manufactory and then annealed in blue to match the circumferential date scale. The blued bracket-shaped date marker is also elaborately crafted by hand.

Calibre 100.3 with jumping date display – adjustable in both directions, including just before midnight

The date display, a complication much in demand and talked about by watch connoisseurs, is a comparatively recent development in the history of the mechanical wristwatch. Only at the start of the 20th century did the first wristwatches with date hand start to appear.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

A unique aspect of the DATE Turquoise is the calibre 100.3 with jumping date display. It is a combination of precise, legible display and mechanical sophistication coupled with a high level of convenience. The complete date scale from 1 to 31 and the unusual bracket shape of the date marker underpin the elegance and functionality of the DATE Turquoise.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

One special feature is that the time and date can be adjusted just before midnight and straight after midnight. The hand is positioned exactly on the right date via a click spring. In addition to the precise jumping date display, this date adjustment benefits from the fact that the switching finger does not interfere with the switching wheel except for the jump to the next date, a process that lasts a matter of milliseconds. As such, the date can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time while the movement carries on running.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

To correct the date, for example at the end of the month, there is a separate setting crown at 10 o’clock. This crown is not active in the normal position, thus preventing accidental adjustment. To adjust the date, the crown has to be pulled out. The movement carries on running and the date can be changed by turning the crown in either direction.

Schönstes deutsches Handwerk – the highest level of precision and refinement

The rear of the watch also offers a striking display of colour thanks to the sapphire crystal back. The artistically finished calibre 100.3 with the Grossmann balance, the ratchet wheel with 3-band snailing and the hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock with regulator arm and Grossmann micrometer screw is a work of art dedicated to precision. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOThe finest cuts and polishes allow the whole ensemble to sparkle in a multitude of ways. The screws, annealed by hand in violet, are in perfect but subtle harmony with the German silver, steel and gold shades.

The Grossmann manual winder with pusher

The manual winding with pusher developed in-house contains a perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

Limited edition

The DATE Turquoise is limited to a run of 18 pieces worldwide and available at the net retail price of EUR 42,500. The watch is completed by a fine hand-sewn strap made from black alligator leather.

 --------------------------------
TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: ATUM Date Turquoise

Case     Stainless steel
Dial      Turquoise, solid silver with Guilloché    
Hands  Hand-made; hour, minute, seconds, date marker blue annealed

\Limited edition    18 watches worldwide

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

 Reference    MG-003406 - Stainless steel


Movement   
Manufacture calibre 100.3, manually wound, adjusted in five positions

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

No. of parts:    259
No. of jewels:    26, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement:    Lever escapement 
Movement dimensions:    Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.55 mm
Oscillator:     Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,  
Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Balance:    Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:   42 hours when fully wound
Functions    
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, date display, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features   
Grossmann balance;  hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; precisely jumping date display with a peripheral marker; bidirectional date adjustment with a second crown at 10 o‘clock; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements   
Two crowns in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time and the date, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch
Case
Three-part, precious metal 
Case:  Three-part, stainless steel
Dimensions: 
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.85 mm
Dial
Solid silver, guilloché
Hands:    Handcrafted, steel; hour, minute and seconds, date marker blue annealed
Crystal and display back:    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap  
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in stainless steel

Limited edition  18 pieces

Price: Recommended retail EUR 42,500 (excl. taxes)

----------------------------------
PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Moritz Grossmann Glashuette
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.Grossmann-Uhren.com