Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Gyrotourbillon Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER® Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Gyrotourbillon Gold 43mm Edition 2024

 

A HIGHLIGHT OF WATCHMAKING ENHANCED BY EXQUISITE DECORATIVE CRAFTS

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 Key facts:

•     An artistic reinterpretation of some of the finest watchmaking skills
•     An exceptional calibre brings together three of the greatest complications
•     Testament to the exceptional watchmaking talents and decorative crafts united within the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture

In September 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a new artistic interpretation of Calibre 184. Created in 👉2019, this exceptional movement unites the smallest version of the bi-axial Gyrotourbillon with a highly intuitive perpetual calendar, a minute repeater that sounds the Westminster chime, a one-minute constant force mechanism, a dead-beat minute hand, and a leaping date display.

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 The Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 will be unveiled in 18-Karat pink gold (750/1000) during the Precision Pioneer exhibition in Beijing in September, to be followed by a variant in white gold (750/1000) (18 Karats). The timepiece will be a limited edition of five pieces of each variant.

Inspired to meet the highest challenges of horology

Jaeger-LeCoultre created its Hybris collection to bring together some of the highest watchmaking skills in a single piece. The timepieces that are designated Hybris Artistica complement the exceptional mechanics with sophisticated and complex artistic decoration.

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Calibre 184 unites three of the greatest complications in the history of watchmaking – each of which represents a pillar of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking mastery: sound, precision and astronomical complications. In addition, the Hybris Artistica interpretation showcases the Grand Feu enamelling skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares™ atelier ­as well as the craft of lacquering.

\Underlining the extraordinary sophistication of Calibre 184, it takes approximately five months to assemble its 1052 components. Very few watchmakers have mastered such a high level of skill and a single watchmaker works on the entire process from start to finish.

An artistic reinterpretation of the finest watchmaking skills

Complex and visually intriguing, the dial of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is an essay in harmony and contrast. Soft curves contrast with the rectilinear geometry of the decoration; textured surfaces contrast with high shine; visual complexity is anchored by a restrained bi-colour palette. The dials feature decorative plates of black Grand Feu enamel with a geometric pattern of fine lines, set on both sides of the sub-dial that displays the time and perpetual calendar. The centre of this sub-dial is a smoky black, semi-transparent sapphire that allows an intriguing glimpse of the calendar discs. The open-worked lower half of the dial is dominated by the visually mesmerising Gyrotourbillon, on each side of which the repeater hammers are set like wings. Set beneath them, the distinctively curved gongs are treated with black, to harmonise perfectly with the overall colour palette.

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In keeping with the complexity of this timepiece, the Grande Tradition case comprises more than 80 components, with polished, brushed and micro-blasted finishes highlighting its sculptural form. For the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have used the case-sides as a canvas to link to the new dial decoration, adding a plate on each side of the case featuring the same geometric pattern as the dial, executed in black lacquer.

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On the case, the attention to detail extends to the manner of operating the minute repeater. Rather than the traditional slider or a simple push-button, the designers developed a retractable pusher that is mounted flush with the case to preserve its elegant lines.

An exceptional calibre uniting three great complications

Calibre 184 features the fifth iteration of the Gyrotourbillon, which returns to the original form of the 2004 Gyrotourbillon design. However, the mechanism has been completely re-engineered and its size significantly reduced. The reduced size made it possible to incorporate a minute repeater without adding much thickness to the calibre. Remarkably, the 94 components making up the Gyrotourbillon weigh just 0.4 grams.

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 In watchmaking, precision depends on the delivery of a consistent power supply to the regulating organ and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have incorporated a one-minute constant force mechanism to ensure a consistent flow of energy to the Gyrotourbillon. Because it causes the minute hand to beat every 60 seconds (in similar way to a dead-beat seconds hand) the constant force mechanism also has a significant benefit for the minute repeater. Normally, if the minute repeater is activated at any point between minutes, it will chime the time a minute fast or slow. Thanks to the beating minute hand, it will always chime the precise minute shown by the hand.

The minute repeater of Calibre 184 plays the Westminster carillon – the melody made famous by the clocktower housing Big Ben at London's Westminster Palace. This chime is rarely found in watchmaking due to the complexity of the mechanism needed to achieve it. Four hammers are required, rather than the usual two, and in Calibre 184, they are stacked in pairs so that they strike the gongs from the same angle.

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In mastering chiming mechanisms, Jaeger-LeCoultre has focused on ways to improve the sound, and Calibre 184 features several patented inventions: the trébuchet hammers, which strike the gong more solidly, and the crystal gongs, so named because they are connected directly to the front crystal, enabling a cleaner transfer of the sound and increased volume. The mechanism also incorporates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature time-lapse reduction mechanism, which ensures a smooth cadence no matter what time it is chiming. Moreover, the minute repeater calibre features two distinctive characteristics: The gongs are curved outwards to meet the hammer at its natural strike point, and they have a square variable profile, providing a larger strike area that enables a cleaner strike.

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The perpetual calendar is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications, as it takes into account the differences between the cycles of the heavenly bodies and the units of standard civil timekeeping. Consequently, the calendar needs manual adjustment only in centennial years that are not also leap years. The first time that this will be required is the year 2100. The operation of the perpetual calendar of Calibre 184 is both innovative and highly intuitive, allowing the date to be re-set either backwards or forwards.

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The layout of the calendar indications is equally intuitive. Set into the hours and minutes dial, three small windows display the year, month, and day, while the date is shown on a ring surrounding the sub-dial. The spaces between dates are perfectly uniform, except for 16 and 17, which are separated by 60 degrees. Every month, the date indicator hand leaps from one to the other, ensuring that the Gyrotourbillon isn’t obscured.

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Viewed through the sapphire case-back, the reverse side of the movement is no less compelling. The plates have been open-worked to allow a view deep into the calibre, including a full view of the Gyrotourbillon, as well as the governor for the minute repeater, which uses friction and centripetal force to regulate the speed at which the time is chimed and reduces the silent intervals between chimes.

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In keeping with the elevated level of the mechanics and the exceptional artistic craftsmanship of this timepiece, the movement features superlative hand-finishing. The bridges are hand-bevelled; sunrayed Côtes de Genève radiate out from the perpetual calendar’s anchor-point; and heat-blued screws are set into hand-bevelled and polished sinks. Several bridges are micro-blasted, to create a pleasing textural contrast with the movement’s polished elements.

Uniting three great watchmaking complications with an exceptional degree of craftsmanship and artistry, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is eloquent testimony to the 180 skills housed within the Manufacture and reconfirms the place that Jaeger-LeCoultre holds in the world of haute horlogerie as the ‘Watchmaker of Watchmakers’™.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

 MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 184

 Reference: Q5252470

Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 Karats)

Dimensions: 43 mm x 14.1 mm thick

Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184

Functions: Hours and Minutes, Perpetual Calendar with Day, Month, Year and Leaping Date, Minute Repeater with Westminster Chime, Gyrotourbillon with one-minute constant force mechanism

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Dial: Black Grand Feu enamel with golden geometric decoration; black sapphire sub-dial

Water resistance: 5 bar (approximately 50 metres)

Strap: Black alligator with small scale lining

  🔰 Limited edition of 5 pieces 

  ----------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 184

Reference: Q5253470

Case: White Gold 750/1000 (18 Karats)

Dimensions: 43 mm x 14.1 mm thick

Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184

Functions: Hours and Minutes, Perpetual Calendar with Day, Month, Year and Leaping Date, Minute Repeater with Westminster Chime, Gyrotourbillon with one-minute constant force mechanism

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Dial: Black Grand Feu enamel with golden geometric decoration; black sapphire sub-dial

Water resistance: 5 bar (approximately 50 metres)

Strap: Black alligator with small scale lining

  🔰 Limited edition of 5 pieces

 ===================

🔴 Price on Request 💰

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER® GRANDE TRADITION Calibre 948 World-Timer Tourbillon Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER® GRANDE TRADITION Calibre 948 World-Timer Tourbillon Gold 43mm Automatic Edition 2024

 

 REINTERPRETING THE
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948 WORLD-TIMER
A GREEN ENAMEL DIAL AND PINK GOLD CASE HIGHLIGHT AN
EXCEPTIONAL COMPLICATION

Key Facts:

•     A new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, with a green enamel dial
•     A uniquely artistic expression of the world-time complication unites mechanical excellence with rare handcrafts - enamelling, guillochage and lacquering
•     The Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit around the dial in 24 hours, echoing the way that Earth spins on its axis and makes a circuit around the Sun

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Throughout its history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been distinguished by its mastery of complications and, for almost a century, this has included timepieces able to display multiple time zones simultaneously. Calibre 948 is a uniquely artistic expression of universal time, combining a world time display with a flying tourbillon that makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours – an allusion to Earth’s rotation on its axis and its orbit around the Sun. 

In 2024, La Grande Maison presents a new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, with a green enamel dial that celebrates the colours of nature and showcases the skills of the Manufacture’s in-house Métiers Rares™ atelier. Set in an 18-carat (750/1000) pink gold case, it is offered in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

 The precision of the world’s time zones

As with all measurements of time, the origin of our world’s time zones lies in astronomy: the passage of our 24-hour day is determined by the rotation of Earth on its own axis. However, zones are a relatively recent concept, driven by the need to impose order and precision on international timing. Until the 19th Century, every city determined its own time, based on 12 noon being the time that the sun was at the highest point in the sky. As railway travel developed in the 19th century, this made scheduling impossible and it became clear that standardised timing – the synchronisation of clocks within a given geographical region – and global norms were needed. At the International Meridian Conference in 1884, it was decided that Greenwich Observatory in London (longitude 0°) would be the basis for calculating times around the globe and each of the 24 major time zones would be defined by 15 degrees of longitude. The world’s day would start and end at midnight at the Greenwich meridian and times would be counted east and west from there – hence the terms Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), ante meridian (am) and post meridian (pm).

The Métiers Rares™ atelier: mastery of ancestral crafts

To create the complex and richly coloured dial of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the master artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ atelier united the skills of enamelling, guillochage and lacquering. To complete a single example of the dial requires a total of more than 70 hours of meticulous work.

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Champlevé – which translates literally as ‘raised field’ – is a noble and ancient enamelling technique that originated almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out depressions in the surface of the precious metal, conforming precisely to the outline of the desired image. These hollow areas are then filled with multiple layers of enamel – fired at very high temperatures after each layer – until they are flush with the original surface. Adding refinement and intrigue, the enameller uses a combination of opaque and translucent enamels to create areas of lighter and darker colour that suggest the continents’ different landscapes. The Calibre 948 dial required 10 layers of enamel and represents more than 20 hours of work for the enamelling alone.

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Lacquering is a lengthy and exacting artisanal process that requires the manual application of multiple layers of coating on the surface to be decorated. It begins with a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour. This is followed by up to 15 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness – with each coat requiring a precisely controlled drying process. The lacquering is completed by polishing the disc to a perfect finish that attracts the light and amplifies the richness of the colour.

A world of time expressed through artistry of rare precision

Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, the multi-layered dial of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is a remarkable work of art in miniature. In keeping with world-timer tradition, the centre of the dial is dominated by a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. The outline of the continents is cut from a fine plate of 18ct gold and decorated with champlevé enamel. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the main dial plate on a domed skeleton of pink gold formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. A masterpiece of laser-cutting precision, this complex and delicate domed structure brings lightness and depth to the dial and makes a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement.

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Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial plate is decorated with blue-green translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea.

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As on all classical world timers, each time zone is represented by the name of a city, set on a green opaline ring around the central dial. Set outside the city ring are two concentric fixed rings. The inner ring indicates 24 hours, which are marked with applied rectangular indexes and laser-engraved numerals. The outer ring features the minute track, which is a laser-engraved on a background of dark green lacquer that complements the colour of the map and oceans. In a circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the oceans, spinning in 60 seconds. As the tourbillon makes a complete 360-degree revolution of the dial in 24 hours, the domed map and the city ring turn in unison, mimicking the rotation of Earth on its axis. Thus the right time in every city is always indicated by the hour marked on the city ring adjacent to the city name.

An elegant case for an exceptional calibre

When Jaeger-LeCoultre created Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. Moreover, the Universal Tourbillon – patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre – makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours, corresponding to the length of a mean solar day. Consisting of 388 components, the automatic movement is an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, having been conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture.

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Despite its complexity, Calibre 948 has been designed to ensure that the watch is very simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately. 

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With its pure lines and refined proportions, the Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect foil for the complexity of the dial. Comprising more than 40 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light. The warmth of the pink gold is complemented by a dark green alligator strap that matches the dial.

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With its magnificent green dial, the new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to uniting artistic creativity and sophisticated mechanics, always maintaining the fine balance between the spirit of innovation and a profound respect for tradition.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: MASTER GRANDE TRADITION Calibre 948 World-Timer Edition 
 
Reference: Q52824E1

Case
Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 14.13mm thick
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar 
Movement
Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) 
388 components
Power reserve: 48 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, universal flying tourbillon, 
world-time display with 24-hour indication
Dial
Green translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; 
domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel
Strap
Black alligator leather with folding buckle

 🔰 Limited edition of 20 pieces

🔴 Price :   $ 44,300 / 49.600 € 💰

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire Steel

Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire  Blue Dial Steel 42.5 mm - 2024

 JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire

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Key Facts :

•     Duometre: a revolutionary approach to timekeeping precision
•     The first Duometre model in steel – and a new case designn
•     A deep blue dial distinguished by multiple decorative finishes

Since the launch of the Duometre Chronograph in 2007 – the first timepiece based on the ground-breaking Duometre concept – the system has been used with a few other complications, giving its name to a line of technically advanced watches that are distinguished by highly precise timekeeping. 

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In 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new generation of Duometre timepieces – among them a reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). The first Duometre piece to be offered in steel, its eye-catching blue dial, paired with a new case, lends a decidedly contemporary air to a timeless and distinctive design.

Ensuring a Perfect Supply of Energy

With their invention of the Duometre in 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers solved a fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches. That is, to operate, a complication must draw from the energy that is supplied from the barrel to the escapement via the gear train. This naturally interrupts the perfect regularity of the power supply and thus compromises precision.

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In testament to the Maison’s inventiveness since its earliest days, its watchmakers had already explored solutions to the problem in the 19th century: in an 1881 pocket watch they introduced Calibre 19/20RMSMI equipped with two barrels. However, a double-barrel calibre still does not address the real issue because both barrels feed power to a single gear train that is employed for both timekeeping and the operation of complications.

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Nevertheless, that early calibre provided the Manufacture’s 21^st-century engineers and watchmakers with a starting point for the revolutionary Duometre concept. By effectively separating the power supply into two ‘streams’ – one barrel and gear train for timekeeping and a separate barrel and gear train for the complication(s), both linked to a single escapement – the Duometre system guarantees absolute constancy of the power supply, regardless of whether a complication is operating or not.

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Emphasising the precision of the calibre, a distinctive element of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire dial is the seconde foudroyante hand, which whirls continuously in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Making a complete revolution in one second (versus a ‘standard’ seconds hand, which rotates in 60 seconds) with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, the foudroyante hand makes it possible to observe intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second.

A Precise Approach to Aesthetics

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the pursuit of precision is not limited to the accuracy of timekeeping but is equally important for the beauty of the design and finishes. 

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On the deep blue dial of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the long and very fine hands are a signature of all Duometre watches, as is the symmetrical layout, with three sub-dials forming an inverted pyramid. 

 

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The sub-dial at 3 o’clock shows the time, with the cardinal hours marked by applied Arabic numerals; the sub-dial at 9 o’clock displays the date with a hand and the moon phase set against a blue sky. The seconde foudroyante sub-dial nestles beneath them at 6 o’clock.

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The dial is made in several sections, with different finishes to create visual interest and contrast. The opaline main dial has the very soft glow and sense of visual depth characteristic of that decorative technique. The lower section of the dial is sunray-brushed and, in an added touch of refinement, the two power reserve indicators are distinguished from this sunrayed background by an opaline arc.

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Inspired by the aesthetic of the sector dials that were featured on historic timepieces, the broad ring encircling each is sunray-brushed. The convex curve of the dial perimeter closely follows the contour of the glass -box crystal that protects it, and the sub-dials are slightly sunken into its surface, increasing the sense of visual depth.

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Further evidence of the Maison’s approach to precision can be seen in the finishing of the movement, fully visible beneath the transparent crystal case-back. Much of the calibre is open-worked, which serves both an aesthetic and a technical purpose: the latter enables the watchmakers to set and assemble some of the 374 components more easily, while the former allows a view deep into the mechanism.

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Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, yet the stripes must radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.

A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition

Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19^th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing.  

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(The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the only sharp lines to be found are on the highly polished edges of the lugs.

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A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated, to enable multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.

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With its blue dial and steel case, the new interpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire lends a decidedly contemporary air to a technically sophisticated timepiece. It perfectly represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentless pursuit of precision and its spirit of innovation, anchored in a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  DUOMETRE Quantieme Lunaire

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 Reference: Q604848J  - Blue Dial

Case
Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 42.5 mm
Diameter: 13.05 mm thick
Case-back: Open
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381

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Jewels:    40
Reserve:    50
Frequency: 21.600
Date:    Date
Functions: Hour, Minutes, Central Seconds,
1/6th of a second, Moon Phases, Date, Two power reserves
Power Reserve: 50hours for each barrel
Front dial: Blue opaline
Dial
Appliqued numerals, Blue, Opaline
Strap
Alligator with small scale alligator lining 
Lug width: 21mm
Length 12h: 75mm
Length 6h: 120mm
Buckle
Double Folding Buckle
Stainless steel width: 18mm

🔴 Price :   $ 44,300 / 49.600 € 💰

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Chronograph Moon Gold / Platinum

Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Chronograph Moon Gold / Platinume 42.5 mm Opaline Dial - 2024

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 JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE CHRONOGRAPH MOON

Key Facts: 

• The new Calibre 391 unites a highly complex chronograph with a moon phase display
• The patented Duometre mechanism ensures remarkable precision
• A new case and dials express contemporary elegance in distinctive style

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In 2007 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ground-breaking Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph – the complication that epitomises the concept of precision. In 2024, the Maison applies the Duometre concept in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the high precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. 

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Powered by the new Calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph – which can time intervals as small as 1/6^th of a second – and the slow rhythm of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display.

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At Watches and Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Duometre Chronograph Moon in two variations: a platinum case contrasting with a copper-coloured dial, and a pink gold case offset by the discreet elegance of a silver dial. Both models are enhanced by a hand-stitched alligator strap with small-scale alligator lining.

Solving the Conundrum of Complications

The fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches is that, for any complication to operate, it naturally draws on some of the power provided by the barrel. This disrupts the perfectly regular and constant supply that is required by the meticulously adjusted escapement to fulfil its timekeeping function as precisely as possible.

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The search for a solution to this problem at Jaeger-LeCoultre during the early 2000s eventually led to the invention of the Duometre mechanism. Introduced in 2007 and patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it features two separate barrels and two independent gear trains – one to drive the escapement (for timekeeping) and one to power the complications – both integrated into a single calibre and linked to a single escapement. For the first time, it was possible to guarantee that the movement’s isochronism (the regularity of its ‘heartbeat’) is not compromised by the operation of any complication.

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While the Duometre is revolutionary in modern watchmaking, the underlying principle had, in fact, been explored by the Manufacture more than 120 years earlier; the LeCoultre Calibre 19/20RMSMI was equipped with two barrels and fitted into a pocket watch in 1881. Because that calibre had only one gear train, it did not solve the fundamental problem; nevertheless, it provided a theoretical ‘trigger’ for the Duometre concept.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers chose the chronograph for the first application of the Duometre concept in 2007 as it represented the greatest challenge to accurate timekeeping posed by any complication because its operation requires short bursts of very high power. Since then, the Duometre mechanism has been associated with several other complications, including moon phases, travel time and a tourbillon.

An Entirely New Calibre

For Calibre 391, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers started from the ground up to develop a fully integrated movement that combines a manually wound mono-pusher chronograph with moon phase and night-day complications, as well as two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante (flying second) display.

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When the chronograph mechanism is activated, the foudroyante hand begins its whirling dance, making a complete rotation in one second, during which it beats six times – stopping instantaneously when the chronograph timer is stopped and thus providing a reading accurate to 1/6^th of a second.

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On the dial side of the Duometre Chronograph Moon, two open-worked sections offer intriguing glimpses of the mechanism, hinting at the mechanical beauty of the calibre. On the reverse side, fully revealed beneath the transparent crystal case-back, much of the movement is open-worked and an array of bridges seems almost to be floating above the levers and wheels, drawing the eye deep into the mechanism. Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, and yet radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.

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The open-working of Calibre 391 serves two purposes: not only does it greatly enhance the aesthetics, it also serves a technical purpose, enabling the watchmakers to more easily assemble some parts of this highly complex calibre. This is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of marrying mechanics and aesthetics in such a way that each serves the other. Being a manually wound calibre, there is no winding rotor to conceal the chronograph levers.

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Traditional Haute Horlogerie finishes abound: crisply bevelled and polished angles define the edges of the bridges; brushed surfaces contrasts with polished metal; perlage on the main plate reflects light back up through the mechanism; and blue screws provide a pleasing contrast to the silvery tones of the metal.

A Fascinating Display and Refined Details

The dial is both elegant and intuitive to read, featuring the distinctive three-counter layout and long, thin hands that make the Duometre so recognisable. 

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Echoing the aesthetic of traditional sector dials, the main dial surface and the centre of each sub-dial has the fine, almost powdery texture achieved by the opaline finish; in contrast, the broad ring encircling each sub-dial is decorated with azuré (ultra-fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles). Adding to the visual appeal, the sub-dials are slightly sunken below the main surface, while the edge of the dial is subtly curved, closely following the contours of the glass box crystal.

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Enhancing the symmetry of the layout, the moon phase display is integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial, which is set at 3 o’clock. Its blue background is visually balanced by that of the Night and Day display, which is integrated into the time sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Elapsed time is displayed up to 12 hours, 60 minutes and 60 seconds, accurate to 1/6^th of a second and a tachymeter scale marked around the periphery of the dial enables the wearer to measure speed based on the time taken to travel a fixed distance, or to calculate distance based on speed.

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The seconde foudroyante is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, flanked by the two open-worked areas that reveal parts of the mechanism. The two power reserves (50 hours for each barrel and gear train) are displayed on an arc-shaped bridge on each side of the sub-dial. Both barrels are wound by a single crown – forwards for the barrel that provides power for the timekeeping function and backwards for the second barrel, which provides power for the complications.

A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition

Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19^th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing. 

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(The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the highly polished edges of the lugs are the only sharp lines to be found.

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A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated to enable the use of multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.

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With an entirely new calibre, dial and case, the Duometre Chronograph Moon is an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentlessly creative spirit. It embodies the Maison’s philosophy of combining beauty with technical sophistication, and a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie with constant innovation – always with precision at the heart of the matter.

 

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  DUOMETRE Chronograph Moon 

•  Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J – Silvered grey, Opaline
• Reference: Platinum: Q622656J – Copper, Opaline

Case
Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats) or 950 platinum
Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 14.2 mm thick 
Case-back: Open
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 391
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds; Chronograph with 12-hour counter, 60-minute counter, 
1/6th-second counter and central chronograph seconds; Moon phases, 
Night & Day, two Power Reserve indicators
Power Reserve: 50hours for each barrel
Front dial: Silver opaline (in pink gold case); Copper-coloured opaline (in platinum case)
Strap
Alligator with small scale alligator lining

🔴 Price :  Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J – $ 70,100 /   77.500 € / Platinum: Q622656J – $ 86,800 /  95.500 €💰

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Press releases - 2024
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