VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONELLE Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface 41mm Pink Gold 2023Tradition meets modernity
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- A model born from a combination of contemporary design and the wealth of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking heritage.
- Strict respect for tradition, exemplary finishing and an openface dial embody constantly renewed creative expertise.
- Calibre 2162 R31: an in-house self-winding movement combining a tourbillon with a retrograde date display on an openworked dial.
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The
expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical
sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the
heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement – with its
slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – perfectly
visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The
retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, gains depth in a
functional and contemporary style.Openface design and retrograde date
A
retrograde date display is one in which the indicator does not complete
a full turn of the dial, instead travelling along its entire
measurement segment and then returning to its starting point to begin a
new journey. This is generally an arc of a circle swept over by a
dedicated hand. Most retrograde displays apply to cyclical time
indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days or dates.
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This
mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly
with regards to shock- and wear-resistance. At Vacheron Constantin,
special retrograde displays first became popular in the 1920s, a period
when the Maison distinguished itself by a style inspired by the
aesthetic principles of Art Deco, conducive to letting the imagination
roam free and expressing wildly extravagant touches. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
Skeletonized retrograde date platinum, Ref. 47247-2002
Heir
to the References 47245 and 47247 from the early Noughties, the
Traditionnelle tourbillon date retrograde openface combines its
retrograde display with a partially openworked dial, another signature
of the Maison since the early 20th century. Openface dials
highlight the technical nature and the meticulous and consistent
attention to detail through an avant-garde aesthetic approach.
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Housed in
an 18K pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and only 11.07 mm
thick, this new timepiece is fitted with a grey alligator strap secured
by a pink gold folding clasp.Alternating finishes combining traditional High Watchmaking and technical boldness
Stepped
round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway
minute-track, bi-facetted Dauphine hands and gold baton-type
hour-markers: the characteristic attributes of the Traditionnelle
collection, inherited from the Age of Enlightenment, are rooted in the
Geneva's grand High Watchmaking traditions.
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At Vacheron Constantin,
however, respect for the past does not exclude creativity but in fact
stimulates it. Resulting from three years of work and dialogue between
artisans and master-watchmakers, this timepiece features alternating
hand-finishes that endow it with remarkable depth. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The openworked sapphire dial, which also has a guilloché
segment, reveals in-house Calibre 2162 R31, whose retrograde mechanism
plate is highlighted by a slate grey surface treatment, achieved by a
succession of thin galvanic layers. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
It is further enhanced by vertical
hand-brushing on the upper part, its surface having been smoothed with a
dedicated abrasive serving to create subtle light effects, as well as a
hand-guilloché lower part. The
retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, thus gains added
depth in an ultra-contemporary yet very watchmaking style. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
Stylised
in the shape of a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, the tourbillon features a
set of refined and complex finishes: the inside of its carriage is
hand-bevelled, its cone-shaped transversal bar is hand-polished to give
it a mirror-like gleam close to perfection.Calibre 2162 R31 pushing the boundaries of contemporary fine watchmaking
Proudly
bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, the Traditionnelle tourbillon
retrograde date openface watch is driven by a 242-component in-house
movement. Calibre 2162 R31 revisits the concept of High Watchmaking by
adapting it to modern times with its NAC slate grey finish, 72-hour
power reserve and decorated gold peripheral weight.
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"This calibre exudes a palpable tension between High Watchmaking traditions and the permanent need to innovate”, notes Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin. “It will thus make a lasting mark on its time.” Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
Beating
at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and measuring just 6.25 mm
thick, Calibre 2162 R31 combines a retrograde date with a tourbillon.
This unexpected match is embodied in a technical geometry of rare beauty
with a retrograde mechanism visible to the naked eye through the
openworked dial. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The majestic tourbillon is set in a contemporary
mainplate with a very high-quality watchmaking finish reflecting the
grand Geneva tradition.-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Sum-up
The
expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical
sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the
heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch.
The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement – with its
slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – perfectly
visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The
latter is notably highlighted by hand-crafted finishes such as vertical
hand-brushing on the upper part of the retrograde mechanism plate and guilloché
work on the lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a
tourbillon, takes on added depth in a functional and contemporary style.
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Interview with Christian Selmoni
Are openface dials a Vacheron Constantin speciality?
The
company has a long history of this type of display, known as
"openface". The very first Vacheron Constantin timepiece with a
partially openworked dial dates from 1918. It was a pocket watch with an
astronomical calendar which, was totally innovative at the time in
terms of design.
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Pocket watch - 1918
It was not until almost a century later that the
Manufacture once again turned its attention to this dial concept with
Reference 47247 unveiled in 2002 on the eve of the millennium, for the
247th anniversary of the Maison. This 247-piece
limited-edition available in a 37 mm platinum case, features a
retrograde date, a trailing days subdial at 6 o'clock and an openworked
dial enabling the retrograde date mechanism to be admired. It marks
this same openface spirit that has become a Vacheron Constantin
signature.
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How was the integration of these openface dials then perpetuated?
In
2019, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar was part of this
dynamic, playing on the tensions between contemporary style and the
power of tradition. It clearly marked a milestone. Two years later in
2021, a new interpretation was born: the Traditionnelle openface
complete calendar.
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This stylish reference, presented in a 41 mm case in
white or pink gold with an openworked sapphire dial, opened up new
creative possibilities by combining watchmaking tradition/heritage with
contemporary design.Might
one say that the new Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface
watch is a worthy heir of the above-mentioned models?
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Definitely
so. This new reference continues to write the history of watches with
openworked dials at Vacheron Constantin. And it does so in grand style
with a tourbillon, a retrograde date and absolutely remarkable component
finishes. The idea here is to push the limits of technical complexity
and horological beauty by making them visible, all in a classic rose
gold case. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
The opportunity to admire the contemporary design of Calibre
2162 R31 is truly spectacular. This new interpretation embodiyng a blend
of contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is clearly a strong
signature of the Maison. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
“Pushing the limits of technical complexity and horological beauty by making them visible” Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin.
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TECHNICAL DATA
Collection: TRADITIONELLE
Model: TRADITIONELLE Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
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Reference 6010T/000R-B638
Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Calibre 2162 R31
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (13½''') diameter, 6.25 mm thick
Approximately 72 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
242 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
- Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
- Tourbillon
- Retrograde date
Case
18K 5N pink gold
Diameter 41 mm, 11.07 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Openface, assembled in four parts:
- 18K gold slate grey openface plate with an hand-guilloché upper-part, surrounded by an opaline flange with railway minute-track
- 18K gold applied hour-markers
- Sapphire glass
- 18K gold tourbillon second’s ring
18K 5N pink gold hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent
Strap
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle finish, large square scales
Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
🔴Price: approx. EUR 200,000 | $ 217,000 | approx. £ 174,000💰💰
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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box
95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22
930 20 05
Fax +41 22
930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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