Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Grande Tradition Tourbillon Edition


Jaeger-LeCoultreMASTER Grande Tradition Grande Complication Tourbillon Minute Repeater Edition Unique piece - 2020

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The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

HARMONY OF STARS AND SOUND

In the heart of the Swiss Jura, the Vallée de Joux embraces a serene and calm atmosphere through its forests and mountains. The sky’s purity reveals its most profound mysteries, making it the ideal place for astrologers to study the astral phenomenon.

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The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication harnesses more than a century and a half of accumulated expertise. This masterpiece of mechanical engineering incorporates two of the most romantic yet technically challenging complications in horology – a minute repeater and a celestial vault. The complex mechanism is further elevated by an orbital flying tourbillon.

MINUTE REPEATER MASTERY

Over the past 150 years, minute repeaters have had a major presence in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s portfolio of complicated timepieces. La Grande Maison’s mastery of chiming watches is confirmed by more than 200 calibres, including some 100 minute repeaters made before the year 1900. Since the mid-1990s, when Jaeger-LeCoultre revived this noble horological legacy, its engineers and designers have worked to redefine the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing technology to serve and safeguard horology’s most treasured traditions.

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Considered by watchmakers to be the most challenging – and rewarding – of all horological complications to master, a minute repeater is not only a timepiece but also a miniaturised musical instrument. One of the most important elements of a chiming watch is the way in which sound is transmitted from within the watch to be heard by the human ear. The calibre 945 gathers all the accumulated expertise in chiming mechanisms of the Grande Maison, since its foundation in 1833.

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One of the most important elements of a chiming watch is the way in which sound is transmitted from within the watch to be heard by the human ear. Capitalising on the superior acoustic qualities of synthetic sapphire crystal, Jaeger-leCoultre’s patented ‘crystal gongs’ (introduced in 2005) are soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, which acts as an amplifier. The square-profile gongs introduced two years later provide a flat striking surface for the hammers, ensuring more consistent and powerful strikes, while the additional material provides a greater vibrational mass and thus a fuller sound.

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Capitalising on the superior acoustic qualities of synthetic sapphire crystal, Jaeger-leCoultre’s patented ‘crystal gongs’ are soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, which acts as an amplifier. The square-profile gongs as well as the articulated trebuchet hammers ensure more consistent and powerful strikes.

ASTRONOMICAL WATCHMAKING

The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication embodies Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications in its celestial vault complication. As well as turning on its own axis in 60 seconds, the tourbillon makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day. Slightly shorter than a solar day (on which we base civil timekeeping), a sidereal day is based on Earth’s rotation measured relative to the ‘fixed’ stars.

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In order to depicts a stunning sky-chart of the Northern Hemisphere night sky as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s home, Jaeger‑LeCoultre talented watchmakers have invented a complex mechanism based on the sidereal day. The sidereal day is used by astronomers to follow the apparent movement of the stars across the night sky. A golden sun-shaped pointer set at the edge of the disc of constellations indicates the date, the month, and the signs of the Zodiac, as well as the 24-hour scale that is marked on the inner flange of the dial.

Civil time is read on the two concentric rings that complete the dial: applied hour indexes on the first ring and minutes on the silvery-white outer ring.

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Slightly shorter than a solar day (on which we base civil timekeeping), a sidereal day is based on Earth’s rotation measured relative to the ‘fixed’ stars, which takes precisely 23 h, 56 min and 4.1 seconds. The sidereal day is used by astronomers to follow the apparent movement of the stars across the night sky.

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Ensuring the utmost precision of the watch, the Orbital Flying Tourbillon makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day.

INNOVATIVE DESIGN

An exceptional movement merits an exceptional habillage and the new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication brings fresh artistic expression to this marriage of complications. A multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the orbiting tourbillon. The delicate filigree which forms a dome, represents the connection between astronomy and horology. This structure echoes the pattern of the constellations, which highlights the complications of this calibre.

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The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the artistry of the dial and the sophistication of the movement. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel is complemented by broad bevels on the lugs; the hollowed-out sides of the lugs add dynamic tension, while the repeater slide is tapered to harmonise beautifully with the curving case sides.

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Reaffirming Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in design and mastery of artistic crafts, the timepiece is offered in two versions: one marries the warm glow of pink gold to a black dial, while the other combines deep blue tones with the coolness of white gold and the discreet sparkle of baguette-cut diamonds, which are set on the bezel.A multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the orbiting tourbillon.

On the deepest level of the dial, a midnight blue or black disc (depending on the model) is decorated with tiny stars. Above it, a delicate filigree forms a dome, its structure echoing the pattern of the constellations marked on the convex celestial disc. The star chart depicts the Northern Hemisphere night sky, as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux.



The new Master Grande Tradition case, introduced in 2019’s two minute repeaters, is a perfect complement to the artistry of the dial and the sophistication of the movement. Different surfaces are micro-blasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light and emphasise the details.

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Even the most beautiful chime can be marred by background noise – a problem that Jaeger-LeCoultre resolved 125 years ago, with its patented silent strike governor. Using centrifugal forces to regulate chiming, it eliminates the background buzz characteristic of older striking mechanisms. Recognised as a benchmark, it is now used in almost all chiming watches of the Grande Maison.

The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications in its celestial vault complication, which defines the dial of the watch. The elegant finishes complement the sophistication of the dial embarking the timepiece into the elevated galaxy of High Watchmaking.
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: MASTER Grande Tradition Grande Complication Tourbillon Edition

Reference: Q5263480 - White gold
Reference: Q5262460 - Pink gold

Movement
Manual mechanical movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 945
Power reserve: 40 hours
Frequency: 21.600 A/h /3 Hz vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 193
Number of Jewels: 21

Functions
Hours/Minutes
  • Zodiac calendar
  • Month
  • 24-hour indication
  • Orbital flying tourbillon indicating the sidereal time
  • Minute repeater with cathedral ‘crystal gongs’ soldered directly to the sapphire crystal
  • Celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the northern hemisphere
Case
  • White gold
  • Pink gold
Satin, micro-blasted and polished finishes
Pink gold or white gold with bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds (💎44 diamonds – 3.76 

Dimensions: 45 mm
Comprising more than 80 parts
Case back: Open
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
  • Black dial with golden laser-welded structure (pink gold version)
  • Blue dial with silvered laser welded structure (white gold version)
Recto Hands Baguette
Strap
Hand-sewn blue or brown alligator leather lining
Gold folding-clasp

Limitation:
Limited to 8 pieces


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Tuesday, May 26, 2020

CHRONOSWISS – Open Gear ReSec Edition


CHRONOSWISS Open Gear ReSec Electric Blue Limited Edition - 2020

Open Gear ReSecJump Back in Time

Chronoswiss presents its latest modern mechanical timepiece: the Open Gear ReSec, where the large minute hand meets a grand competitor taking over centre stage. On the Open Gear ReSec, the retrograde second hand is the leading actor in the chronological play of time. Mounted on a hand-finished straight-grained bridge with polished edges, the second hand runs in a half-circle from four to eight. After thirty seconds it jumps back to begin again from four.

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This ‘jump back in time’ takes a millisecond, and the precision of the watch is well within ±5 seconds per day,” says Maik Panziera, Chronoswiss Head of Design, about the retrograde display – a truly hypnotic invention with roots stretching back to 17th- century pocket watches.

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The elegantly gold-plated minute hand of the Open Gear ReSec circumnavigates the entirety of the 42-part dial. Its tip is extremely sharp, thus enabling you to see exactly what minute it is. Its matt finish resolutely contrasts the shiny hand-guillochéd dial made in Chronoswiss ́ Lucerne atelier, which gives an extremely clear time reading.

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The dial is also encircled with hour indexes made of massive white cylinder- shaped blocks of Super-LumiNova®, ensuring the time is legible even in the darkest hours. Through the funnel-shaped hour subdial the wearer can also enjoy the mechanical ballet of open-gear horology with skeletonised wheels –truly an example of a modern mechanical timepiece.

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Looking closer at the details, you will see finishing and engineering solutions on a level not usually found in watches in this price range. For instance, the bridges holding the retrograde complication in place have three different finishes: sandblasted matt, chamfered edges and polished surfaces. This attention for detail is also applied to the exterior: The electric blue CVD-coated 17-part case features matt, channelled sides and a shiny bezel and lugs.

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Even the bracelet pins holding the chunky hornback leather crocodile strap in place are more than meets the eye. They are held in place by cone-shaped screws that expand into the holes in a system which obviates the need for Loctite. This patented feature of ours is known as Autobloc. And when you pull out the generous onion crown, the stop-seconds system enables easy and exact time setting.

A mix of new materials, old techniques and contemporary design – this is what it takes to be a modern mechanical brand,” says Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein

Open Gear ReSec BLGO is made in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Open Gear

Model: Open Gear ReSec Stainless steel, blue dial

Reference Number: CH-6926-BLGO

Case
Diameter: 44
mm
Thickness: 13.35 mm
Material: Stainless steel with blue CVD coating

Movement
Caliber: Chronoswiss caliber C. 301
Diameter: 36.50mm
Power Reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Winding: Automatic with stop seconds
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 33

Chronometer Certified: No
Functions: Off-centre hours at 12:00, central minutes, retrograde seconds at 6:00
Additional Details: Skeletonized blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing;
polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Pricing & Availability
Dial
Color:
Electric Blue
Indexes: Lume filled circular indexes
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet
Hornback crocodile leather, hand-sewn

Limited Edition: Yes, 50 pieces


Price: CHF 9,900

Availability: Immediately

Available
CH-6921R-GRSI 18-karat red gold, dial galvanic grey
CH-6923-SIBL Stainless steel, dial galvanic silver
CH-6925-BKGRE Stainless steel, DLC coating, dial galvanic black
CH-6925-BKRE Stainless steel, DLC coating, dial galvanic black
CH-6926-BLBL Stainless steel, blue DLC coating, blue dial

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Press Release - 2020
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