Friday, June 24, 2022

Breguet – Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Waltz

 

BREGUETTradition "Grande Complication" 7047 Tourbillon Waltz 2022

 
To mark the date of creation of the Tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand unveils its latest model from the Tradition collection: a timepiece featuring strong colours highlighting what has remained – from past to present – one of the most fascinating horological complications of all times.

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The fusée-chain tourbillon mechanism appears sprinkled with touches of blue. Various treatments have been used on all the components in order to achieve visual uniformity: the tourbillon carriage and the dial are covered with blue coatings, while the chain links are thermally blued. This new feature reflects the aesthetics of the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 launched in May and elegantly plays with blue and slate grey contrasts.

A legendary complication

The Tourbillon stemmed from a necessity keenly felt in the 18th century: namely, to overcome the lack of accuracy caused by the vertical position of pocket watches placed in gentlemen’s waistcoats or jackets. The challenge was taken up by Abraham-Louis Breguet, who on 26 June 1801 filed a patent for the creation of the first tourbillon. Ever since, this complication has remained one of the most greatly appreciated by devotees of fine watchmaking, since it reveals the heart of the watch.
 
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The fusée-chain tourbillon transmission device housed in the new Tourbillon 7047 serves to optimise the regularity of the watch's operation by guaranteeing its constant torque, whatever its winding level is.

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When the barrel is fully wound, it delivers its maximum force. The chain then acts on the top of the fusée and therefore on its smallest circumference. As the chain unwinds, its torque decreases yet acts in parallel on the widest part of the fusée – its base – thus ensuring the constant force of the energy is delivered.

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Resolutely contemporary while displaying the House’s emblematic codes, the new Tourbillon 7047 picks up the signatures of the Manufacture Breguet: namely the "Clous de Paris" guilloché pattern on its off-centre gold dial, the traditional Roman numerals and the open-tipped hands. Like the watches that inspired it, its dial is secured by three screws.

The movement

At the heart of its 41 mm platinum case beats Calibre 569, a rhodium-plated hand-wound movement housing 542 components. It is equipped with an inverted in-line lever escapement featuring horns made of silicon, as too is the Breguet balance-spring. 

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This material has many properties, since in addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the chronometry (timekeeping precision) of the timepiece. Finally, the balance of the Tradition Tourbillon 7047 oscillates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz and has a 50-hour power reserve.

The Tradition collection

Unveiled in 2005, the Tradition collection with its attractive blend of heritage and modernity is the brand's first line to present all the movement's organs on the dial side, thus demonstrating its inspiration from souscription and touch (à tact) watches. Launched in 1797, the souscription watch featured a single hand to read the hours and minutes. The aesthetics of this refined yet minimalist timepiece were avant-garde for its time – as indeed was its concept, since a quarter of the price had to be paid at the time of ordering.

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BREGUET - No 3424 pocket watch.
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 The same calibre was used by Abraham-Louis Breguet to design the first touch (à tact) watches presented a year later at the French Industrial Exhibition. At that time, poor lighting made it difficult to read the time on a dial. It was also not considered very elegant to consult one's watch during social occasions.  

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BREGUET - No 2292 pocket watch.
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The founder of the Manufacture Breguet therefore devised a piece that allowed the time to be read in a tactile manner, without removing the watch from the pocket. All the wearer had to do to check the time was to touch the arrow or hours hand turning around the case rim and compare its position with the hour projections on the case middle.

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The current Tradition collection picks up Breguet's codes in a contrasting and contemporary way, as demonstrated by the Tradition Tourbillon 7047 model. This new timepiece is fitted with a midnight blue alligator leather strap secured by a triple-blade platinum folding clasp.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 
Collection  Tradition

Model:  Tradition  7047 Tourbillon Waltz

References

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Ref. 7047PT/1Y/9ZU - Platinum - Blue  Price: EUR 194,100  / CHF 185,300
Ref.   7047PT/11/9ZU - White gold - silvered

Description
Tradition "Grande Complication" watch with fusée tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Silicon Breguet balance-spring. Power reserve indicator on the barrel drum. Off-centred dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire crystal caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m). Diameter: 41 mm

  • Available in 18-carat rose gold with black dial and anthracite or rose gold-plated movement.
  • Available in 950 platinum with silvered dial and anthracite movement.

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 Ref.   7047BR/R9/9ZU - Rose gold -
 Ref.   7047BR/G9/9ZU - Rose gold - anthracite

Case

  • Platinum 950  
  • 18-carat Rose Gold

Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 16 mm  
Sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Dial
Off-centred blue dial in hand-guilloché gold
Movement
Hand-wound Calibre: 569
Balance-spring: Breguet type, in silicon
Carriage: Titanium
Power reserve indicator on the barrel drum
Balance-wheel: Breguet, titanium
Escapement: Inverted straight-line lever
Frequency: 2,5 Hz
Power reserve: 50 hours
Components: 542 
Functions: Hours, minutes, fusée tourbillon
Strap
Midnight blue alligator leather

 

#Breguet
#BreguetTradition
#Breguet7047
#myBreguet
#myBreguetMoment

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Thursday, June 23, 2022

LAURENT FERRIER – Classic Traveller Magnetic Green Edition

 

LAURENT FERRIERClassic Traveller “Série Atelier” Magnetic Green Limited Edition 2022

 For the new opus of its “Série Atelier”, LAURENT FERRIER travels light.

More than an art of living, travel is aboutreturning to the essentials of life. LAURENT FERRIER dedicates this No.3 “Série Atelier”to those who are not willing to sacrifice beauty for the sake of comfort when travelling. This new version of the Classic Traveller with dual time zones features a polished titanium case with a gracefully sunburst magnetic-green dial and a forest-green nubuck strap. In line with previous editions, this Classic Traveller Magnetic Green “Série Atelier” is produced in a limited edition of just 15 pieces, available exclusively on the www.laurentferrier.ch website.

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Trying on a LAURENT FERRIER is like entering a parallel watchmaking world without realising it. At first glance, everything appears minimalist and classic. But the longer you look, the more you are struck by the multitude of exceptional details that distinguish the design of LAURENT FERRIER watches. More than 40 years of experience in watchmaking culture have led Mr Laurent Ferrier to apply the principles of omnipresent attention and meticulous work in his aesthetic creation. Hisvision is to create every watch component withpassion and extreme care. The Classic Traveller is no exception.

A MAGNETIC DIAL

The first striking element is the watch’s overall balance and harmony. The gentleness of the dial is enhanced by a gracefulshade of green. A central sunburst electrifies the mineral nuances of the dial. In addition to creating a multitude of shimmering green reflections, this finish reveals the multiple faces of the dial, depending on its exposure to light. The dual texture adds character to the dial, as the central sunburstis surrounded by a soft circular satin-finish. This magnetic green is intensified by the deep green of the nubuckstrap.

The 18ct white gold drop-shaped applied hour-markers complete the dial. Their sophistication goes beyond their fine, elongated form: they are a three-dimensional creation. Wider and higher on the outside, they become narrower across all three planes as they approach the centre. Their surface is soft, rounded and perfectly polished. The last detail to draw the gaze is thestuds with rounded heads in polished gold that replace these hour markers at 3 and 9 o’clock, where the counters prevent the use of long indexes. The result in no way compromises the harmonious rhythm of the twelve markers.

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The small seconds at 6 o’clock are set back from the thickness of the dial, paradoxically highlighting it. Its transferred Arabic numerals in slate greydisplayextreme finesse. The loops and curls of its 1920s-stylecursive typeface areset inside an elaborate grid where the track and ten-second sections are marked on a barely perceptible snailedsurface. Characterised by a pattern of concentric circles, its geometrydemarcates a space for the hand to express itself.

This extremely slender, baton-shapedseconds hand is balanced by a slightly domed counterweight in a curved shape favoured by the brand and dotted over the dial of the Classic Traveller “Série Atelier”. And it is this raised form that is also found on the stamped

hour and minute hands, anchored in the centre. They adopt LAURENT FERRIER’s favouriteAssegai shape, resembling long, tapered spears. Beyondthe surprise discovery of their cut, the eye is drawn back to the dial’s shine, reflections and subtle domes.

A LIGHT CASE

The bewitching magnetic-green dial is housed in a 41mm grade 5 titanium case. This case offers the softness, domes and curves typical of the “pebble-shaped” cases created by LAURENT FERRIER from the very beginning. Its sides, bezel and lugs are polished. This gives the Classic Traveller “Série Atelier” a flattering finish, just as precious as white gold, but with its wearability transformed by the properties of titanium. Four times lighter than 18ct white gold, it makes the Classic Traveller “Série Atelier”ultra-light, with a weightless feel on the wrist. 

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Titanium is also scratch-resistant thanks to its hardness. It is simply rubbed with a gentle, caressing touch to achieve an immaculate shine. Obtaining a brilliant finish on such rounded and softened surfaces is demanding work, particularly on the recessed surfaces of the correctors. This uncompromising choice was made with a single aim in mind: ensuring that every aspect of the Classic Traveller “Série Atelier”is pleasant to wear and to touch, and, as a traveller’s watch, contributes to the wearer’s comfort.

EASY TO USE

The Classic Traveller joined the LAURENT FERRIER cataloguein 2013. Previously, the brand offered a tourbillon with a double balance-spring or a micro-rotor with a natural escapement, and launched this new GMT watch that did notcall itself by this name, nor did it have a classic look.

Rather than the traditional second hour hand in the centre, or off-centre in a dedicated sub-dial, LAURENT FERRIER opted for a remote time display on a disc, visible through an aperture at 9 o’clock. By placing it directly oppositethe date aperture at 3 o’clock, the Classic Traveller introduced a symmetrical element to the dial, reinforcing the sense of harmony and proportion that was already apparent.

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The hour hand located in the centre represents local time, the one that is read first, at all times of day. It is also the one that is changed when travelling across time zones, by means of the corrector push-buttons, which cause the hand to jump from hour to hour depending on the distance travelled, forwards or backwards.

The time displayed in the window at 9 o’clock is the distant time, or Home Time. It remains constant regardless of travel and is therefore controlled directly by the crown. And to reflect the fluid nature of passing time, it has a trailing disc.

A CALIBRE THAT STANDS THE TEST OF TIME

To bring these functions to the wrist, LAURENT FERRIER has chosen its LF230.02 calibre, a self-winding movement with a micro-rotor and natural escapement, designed in collaboration with La Fabrique du Temps. It also benefits from the highest level of finishes, for which LAURENT FERRIER is one of the most emblematic figures. The finely circular-grained mainplate, the hand-bevelled bridges decorated with a horizontal rhodium-plated satin finish, the mirror-polished openwork anchor bridge revealing exceptional hand-crafted interior angles, the mirror-polished and hand-bevelled rotor bridge, and the bevelled and guilloché rotor are just some of the details that bring texture, brilliance and distinction to the watch and make it a traditional timepiece of the highest quality. The Classic Traveller offers anunobstructed view of the micro-rotor with its unidirectional 18ct gold oscillating weight, thanks to its sapphire crystal case-back.

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This escapement with a double direct impulse to the balance wheel, which is as rare as it is complex to produce, was inspired by the father of modern watchmaking, Abraham-Louis Breguet. It refers to a system with two escapement wheels, operating alternately and transmitting their energy directly to the balance wheel. This is called direct impulse to the balance wheel because it is not the anchor that gives the impulse to the balance wheel as in the classic Swiss anchor escapements, but the escape wheel, which is much more efficient in terms of performance. As the escapement wheel can only rotate in one direction, a second escapement wheel completes the set tosend the impulses to the balance wheel alternately. They interact with an anchor in silicon, an ultra-light, self-lubricating material. The gain in efficiency thus achieved is directly reflected in its autonomy, as the Classic Traveller offers a substantial power reserve of more than 72 hours.

THE THIRD LAURENT FERRIER “SÉRIE ATELIER”

The LAURENT FERRIER “Série Atelier” began in 2020 with the Classic Origin Green. It was continued in 2021 with a blue and orange version of the École Annual Calendar. Unlike most LAURENT FERRIER watches, the pieces from this series are produced in very limited quantities and sold exclusively on the brand’swebsite.

The Classic Traveller “Série Atelier” is no exception to this established principle. Priced at 62,000 CHF (excluding tax), it is produced in a limited edition of 15 pieces available exclusively on www.laurentferrier.ch.

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TECHNICAL DATA

 

Model:   Classic Traveller Magnetic Green

REF: LCF007.T1.V8G

limited edition of 15 pieces 


Calibre
Self-winding Calibre LF230.02

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•    Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the main plate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” type shock-absorbing system.
•    Natural escapement with double direct impulse directly on the balance.
•    Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology.
•    Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.
•    Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic date correction.
Diameter: 14’’’ (Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5,80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
288 parts
44 jewels

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Diameters: 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness: 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water-resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in grade 5 titanium
Dial
Magnetic green, sunburst in the centre, circular satin finish around the edge
Drop-shaped indices in 18ct white gold
Stud-shaped hour markers in cabochon-cut 18ct white gold at 3 and 9 o'clock
•    Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
•    Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
•    Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands
18ct white gold, polished and curved
18ct, “Assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes
Seconds: baton-type with counterweight
Strap
Forest-green Nubuck leather, hand stitched  withAlcantara lining
Grade 5 titanium pin buckle


Limitation  
Unique timepiece Limited Edition - Only 15 examples 
 
Price: CH: CHF 62,000.- incl. sales tax  - SOLD OUT

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Press Release - 2022
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Laurent Ferrier SA
Ms­­ Jessica­­ Gasser
Route de Saint Julien 150
1228­­ Plan Les Ouates
Switzerland

Telephone+41 22 716 33 87
Telefax+41 22 341 64 08
Contact : PR@LAURENTFERRIER.CH
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