VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – DRAGON - Unique Piece 2024
Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages A watchmaking odyssey honouring arts and cultures of the world
- Les Cabinotiers - Récits de Voyages collection sets off to
discover the world and its wonders in the spirit of openness that has
characterised Vacheron Constantin since its origins: China and its
ancestral culture are notably highlighted in certain models.
- For the first time, the Maison's master enameller has employed the grisaille
technique using green enamels to pay an original and vibrant tribute to
the mythical five-clawed imperial dragon depicted on the dial.
- Emblematic
of the Maison’s technical mastery, this one-of-a-kind watch set with
baguette-cut diamonds is powered by in-house Calibre 1120, an ultra-thin
self-winding movement.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The single-piece edition timepieces in the new Les
Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages range reflects Vacheron Constantin's
geographical expansion. With the first commercial contacts forged
between Vacheron Constantin and China in the mid-19th century, this country became an essential travel destination. To pay tribute to this country, the Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon watch features a green grisaille
enamel dial, a first for Vacheron Constantin and an original backdrop
for the mythical five-clawed imperial dragon.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Manufacture Calibre 1120,
one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever produced, powers this
one-of-a-kind timepiece set with baguette-cut diamonds.Vacheron Constantin and Asia
Vacheron
Constantin’s human adventure, which gives substance to artistic crafts,
is enriched with Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages, an imaginary
horological odyssey to destinations representing the various historical
stages in the expansion of the Maison. Each one-of-a-kind timepiece in
the collection evokes the arts and cultures of the different continents
visited by the Maison. This international expansion, which began in the
early 19th century, also included China.
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The
emperor turned to the best European artisans, including Vacheron
Constantin to rebuild his lost collection. Having begun prospecting the
Chinese market in the first half of the 19th century, with
business contacts documented as early as 1845, the Maison had already
established a solid reputation in the country.First green grisaille for Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron
Constantin's master artisan has devised a new grisaille enamelling
technique to enhance the dial of this timepiece and highlight the
mythical five-clawed dragon. A symbol of power, nobility and good fortune, this creature is always accompanied by its pearl, an emblem of wisdom.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The art of grisaille, a technique dating back to the 16th century, reveals the motif in a play of chiaroscuro,
designed to endow it with special depth. This now rare technique
consists of applying layers of a rare white enamel known as Limoges
white to a dark enamel base. Each layer is then fired in a kiln, with
the firing time precisely defined to the nearest second. Over the course
of the firing, the details of the dragon take shape, gradually giving
consistency to the way in which the dragon is staged with a wealth of
incredibly accurate details. The enameller's work generally ends with
the application of a final layer of lapped translucent enamel to achieve
an effect of brilliance and depth that brings out the contrasts in the
painting. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
For this piece, the Maison’s master
enameller took a different approach by choosing to give a green tint to
the translucent enamel applied to the initial work in Limoges white.
This colouring reinforces the mythical appearance of the depiction. To
accentuate the depth effect, the master enameller then used Limoges
white for the final subtleties of the motif by means of successive
layers fired in the kiln. Another first is the combination of grisaille
enamel and gemsetting. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The 40 mm case in 18K white gold is set with 146
baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, middle and lugs (7.1 carats). The
crown is adorned with a reverse-set brilliant-cut diamond. It is paired
with a dark green alligator leather strap featuring a white gold pin
buckle set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds.Calibre 1120: a legendary ultra-thin movement
The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille
High Jewellery – Dragon watch is distinguished by its elegant
silhouette. This model with a case measuring just 8.9 mm thick benefits
from the Maison’s expertise in the world of ultra-thin calibres.
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While Vacheron Constantin's first ultra-thin calibres date back to the 19th century, the Manufacture developed several movements renowned for their slenderness throughout the 20th
century, in response to the comfort-related expectations of a clientele
won over by wristwatches. In 1911, for example, Vacheron Constantin's
records show three calibres with different diameters but a common
thickness of 2.82 mm.
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This quest for thinness led to the creation of
movements measuring 2.25 mm thick in
1917 and 1.88 mm in
1924. In
1955,
to celebrate its bicentenary,
Vacheron Constantin presented Calibre
1003, a manual-winding movement just 1.64 mm thick and at the time the
thinnest ever produced.
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At just 2.45 mm thick,
Calibre 1120 reflects this same concern for combining technical sophistication with elegant design.
Introduced in 1968, this movement was redesigned in 2010 with an 18K
gold oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross. It retained the
same size, yer with a higher 40-hour power reserve. Bearing the
prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, it was taken to the next level in terms
of decoration and finishing, featuring a Côtes de Genève motif, circular
graining, chamfering and straight-grained flanks. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
With its 144
components and a regulator operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per
hour (2.75 Hz), this latest-generation Calibre 1120 drives the watch's
white gold leaf-shaped hands.Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages series
Vacheron
Constantin's vocation has always been to perfect the art of watchmaking
in Geneva while remaining open to the world. The founder’s grandson
Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron (1787-1864) was
the first to criss-cross the roads of France and Italy, followed by his
partner François Constantin (1788-1854), a tireless traveller who
oversaw the commercial development of the Maison. He established
commercial relations with Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia and
Asia, during a period in time when Vacheron Constantin was also gaining
a foothold in the United States and China, as well as in Brazil, Hong
Kong and Cuba.
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François Constantin's correspondence
stretching over a quarter of a century paints the portrait of a
Manufacture that was open to a Europe undergoing major restructuring in
the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna. This
scope and reach continued to expand as the Vacheron Constantin name
crossed borders and conquered new markets. Since that time, the very
notion of travel has been inherent to the values of the Maison, an
integral part of the human adventure characterising its nearly 270-year
history. Following in its founders’ footsteps, the Maison offers these
Récits de Voyages series as a watchmaking odyssey through the world and
its wonders, applying craftsmanship and mechanical art as its means of
expression.---------------------------------------------------
SUMMARY
Vacheron
Constantin presents Les Récits de Voyages, a collection of
one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers timepieces combining craftsmanship and
technical mastery. This collection dedicated to the Maison’s
international expansion that began in the 19th century
celebrates the spirit of openness it has demonstrated from the outset.
Each watch illustrates the successive stages of this odyssey.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Les
Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery –
Dragon pays tribute to China, a country whose trade with Vacheron
Constantin dates back to 1845. On the dial of this watch featuring a
five-clawed imperial dragon and its pearl, Vacheron Constantin's master
artisan has created a motif in green grisaille enamel, a first for the Manufacture, another first being the gemsetting of a model with a grisaille
enamel dial. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The case of this timepiece is entirely set with 146
baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, middle and lugs, while a
brilliant-cut diamond adorns the crown. This Hallmark of
Geneva-certified watch is powered by self-winding Calibre 1120, a
legendary movement distinguished by its extreme 2.45 mm thinness and its
aesthetically pleasing construction.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
It is housed in a white gold case
measuring
40 mm in diameter and 8.9 mm thick, paired with a dark green
alligator leather strap secured by a gemset white gold pin buckle.
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Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director
You
highlight the thinness of some of the models presented in this Les
Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages collection. What are Vacheron
Constantin’s credentials in this field?
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Since
its creation in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has been involved in all
areas of the watchmaking art: pocket watches, wristwatches, rings,
sautoir necklaces and brooches, demonstrating consummate mastery of
complications, grand complications and ultra-thin mechanical movements.
While this latter field of expertise might easily appear less
prestigious than grand complication models, this is definitely not the
case. Ultra-thin calibres require just as much talent and expertise, as
demonstrated by Vacheron Constantin since its origins. As far back as
the early 19th century, correspondence between the Maison’s
directors clearly referred to "thin watches". This quest for slimness
became a Vacheron Constantin signature throughout the 20th century, as exemplified by a pocket watch unveiled in 1931 with a mechanical manual-winding movement measuring 17 5/12 lignes or 39.20 mm in diameter and barely 0.94 mm thick. Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Calibre 1003, presented in 1955 to celebrate the Maison’s 200th anniversary; as well as Calibre 1120, which appeared 13 years later and is featured in the Les Cabinotiers Grisaille
High Jewellery – Dragon watch, are part of this trend towards
ultra-thin, aesthetically accomplished movements. Some of these calibres
have become iconic among collectors, who recognise both the technical
solutions adopted and the sense of form in the arrangement of their
components. What applies to watches with two or three hands also applies
to complications, notably thanks to this same Calibre 1120 with
additional function modules. While on this topic, I should also mention
the example of minute repeater Calibre 1731, the thinnest on the market
at the time of its presentation in 2013 at just 3.90 mm thick.Grisaille enamel and gemsetting: why are these two artistic crafts perfectly mastered by Vacheron Constantin only now being combined?
These
two techniques are indeed among the artistic crafts perfectly mastered
within the Manufacture. The fact that it had not previously seemed
appropriate to combine the two was mainly because dials produced in grisaille enamel are strikingly beautiful, showcasing breathtaking attention to detail through chiaroscuro atmospheres forming realistic depictions that nothing should be allowed to disturb.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The grisaille enamel models presented last year by Vacheron Constantin in its “Les Royaumes Aquatiques®” Les Cabinotiers collection feature a smooth bezel and case, with no gemsetting. With Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon, the green shade given to the dial's grisaille
enamel – a first for Vacheron Constantin – prompted the Maison’s
designers to try something different. Gemsetting the case was an obvious
choice, not only because it accentuates the depth effect intended by
this enamelling technique, but also because it enhances its brilliance.
Do Vacheron Constantin and China enjoy a longstanding shared history?
China is a fascinating country with which Vacheron Constantin has enjoyed close ties since the mid-19th
century. In 2015, to celebrate 65 years of bilateral relations between
China and Switzerland, Vacheron Constantin took part in the "Geneva at
the Heart of Time –The Origin of Swiss Watchmaking Culture" exhibition,
in partnership with the Musée d’art et d’histoire
(MAH) in Geneva and the Capital Museum in Beijing. This was the largest
watchmaking exhibition ever staged in Asia, with more than 350 pieces,
tools, paintings and engravings, a third of which came from Vacheron
Constantin's heritage collection. The Manufacture was also present at
the exhibition site at the Capital Museum in Beijing with its master
watchmakers, engravers, enamellers and guilloché
artists. This simple example illustrates China’s importance for the
Manufacture, which has around 30 points of sale in the country. Chinese
customers are sensitive to la belle horlogerie and to fine craftsmanship. They are highly appreciative of artistic crafts and show great loyalty to these principles. =====================
TECHNICAL DATA
Collection: Les Cabinotiers
Model: Grisaille High Jewellery – DRAGON - Unique Piece
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Reference 2017C/000G-096C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Movement
Caliber 1120
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
28.40 mm diameter, 2.40 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 40 hours
2.75 Hz (19’800 vibrations/hour)
144 components
36 jewels
Indications Hours and minutes
Case
18K white gold set with💎146 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.. 7.10 cts)
40 mm diameter, 8.90 mm thick
Crown set with an inverted brilliant-cut 💎diamond (approx. 0.10 ct)
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
“Green” Grisaille enamel representing a dragon
Strap
Dark green Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K white gold pin buckle set with 💎16 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 0.60 ct)
Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique », « Les Cabinotiers » and « AC » hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece
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Press Release - 2024
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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