KURONO – COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’

KURONO Tokyo – THE COMPLICATIONS SERIES Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ 38mm 2023 

 OVERVIEW

The Kurono Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ is a triple calendar complication that achieved finalist recognition at the GPHG Awards 2022. It will be the final edition of the Calendrier Type I model which will be discontinued after this run. As a complete calendar, 'Azuki' is one of our most complicated models from a horological perspective. 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Significant effort was put into achieving the deep maroon color of the dial, including using phosphor-bronze* as a dial material for the first time. (*phosphor-bronze is multitudes harder to machine than the more commonly used brass.) Also unique for this final run of the Calendrier Type I, 'Azuki's' hour markers are further finished in off-white to provide a perfect contrast to its vintage maroon dial color.

INSPIRATION

Hajime Asaoka wanted to achieve a color that harked back to cars of the past, where maroon was a popular standard color. In Japan, that car color is more commonly designated as 'azuki' (tr: 'red bean') hence the nickname for the watch.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

"I think the last Japanese car to have a maroon color was the Datsun 240Z. I don't know if this color was exported, but in Japan, the Datsun 240Z was associated with maroon. I personally like the maroon color very much. However, it is a very difficult color to paint on a watch face. For a deep maroon color, it is necessary to add a dye to the pigment. This requires a thicker coating of paint. This is no problem for a car body, but very difficult for a watch face."

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

"This is why you hardly ever see a (deep) maroon watch face."

"This time, as usual, I mixed the maroon myself and gave it to the dial maker as a color sample. The coating was quite thick. I wondered if the dial maker would be able to finish the color the way I wanted. After a while, the dial maker sent me the sample. The person in charge of the project said that he had gone through a lot of trouble, but the finished dial was superb. The sample I sent was painted on a white plastic plate, but by using a reddish "phosphor bronze" material for the dial itself, they were able to achieve a deep color tone while reducing the coating film. Of course, great care was also taken in the color mixing of the paint itself." ~ Hajime Asaoka

DETAIL

Dial

Azuki's dial enhances the "beauty of symmetry" that is a component of the Art Deco style. The cylinder dial is designed to curve from the center to the outer edge of the dial, and two dial layers are pressed together to create a three -dimensional effect. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The numerals themselves - this time colored in off-white for this anniversary - are also purposefully printed in a raised format. To achieve its unique deep-maroon color, the dial is made from phosphor-bronze for the first time.

Case

The case is made of forged 316L stainless steel. It is newly designed to fit the coin-edged bezel, but keeps the iconic Kurono case DNA. The case sides are mirror -finished. The mirror finish is free from distortion, so much so that exterior reflections are beautifully portrayed. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Also, when viewed from the side, the mirror finish and the coin-edge bezel can be seen to stand out in their respective finishes. Water resistance has been increased to 5 ATM. The case-back is finished with a circular lettering design, as seen on vintage watches.

Sapphire crystal

The scratch-resistant box sapphire crystal is raised like the acrylic glass of a vintage watch. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Designed for the Calendrier 'Type I', its shape is 0.15 mm higher than that of an ordinary sapphire box crystal.

Unique Hand-bent Hands

The combination of high- polish leaf hands for the hour and minute hands with modern hands is a typical Kurono design. The hour and minute hands are curved at both ends, and are paired with a counterweighted second hand that is very thin. The tips of the second and minute hands are bent by hand.

Movement

Miyota 9122 - a Japan-made movement - is used. It is a rare movement with "center seconds and full calendar," which is uncommon in current Swiss-made mass-produced ebauches. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.

 -----------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: The COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’

  Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Case 

316L high-polished stainless steel case

Diameter 38mm 

Thickness 10mm (11.5mm incl sapphire)

Unique box sapphire glass 

Solid caseback
Movement

Japan-made cal.9122 triple calendar complication movement

Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.
Power reserve 40 hours

Complications: full/triple calendar (month, day, date)
Dial 

Phosphor-bronze dial base
Strap

Calf leather strap

Widths: 20mm at lugs, 16mm at buckle

Made in Japan  🇯🇵

❌ AVAILABILITY   ⚠️ SOLD OUT
It will be available for purchase on Friday, 26 May 2023, and there will be 2 order windows.
Deliveries start from End June through August 2023. 

 ---------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------
 ---------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
=====================================

🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com

KURONO Tokyo – Special Project 34mm Edition

KURONO Tokyo –  The SPECIAL PROJECT Series 34mm Edition 2023

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

A collection that embodies new interpretations of Art Deco.

KURONO 34mm (2023)

"Why 34mm?

How do you pick the clothes you will wear every morning?

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

 For me, the first thing I do is select jackets, pants, and shirts from my wardrobe then lay them all out with socks, shoes, and other items. Finally, I place my watch there and check the entire look. I think you probably do the same. What I pay attention to when I do this is making sure that the watch alone doesn't stand out. From this perspective, I find the size of 34mm to be very desirable.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

 But I wonder how many people would agree with that. There is no point in making a watch if it does not sell at all. This is why I experimented with selling 34mm watches last time. We had a pop-up exhibition in Shibuya to give people an opportunity to experience how the size of 34mm looks to them. The watches were sold out quickly.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

Later, when I saw the photos posted on social media such as Instagram, it seemed that people were enjoying coordinating it with their outfits. As the designer of this watch, I was very happy to see this. It was worth the effort.

Now, I made the second version of the watch in response to the favorable feedback.

But this time, the color is more subtle. How would you like to match it with your outfits?" 

- Hajime Asaoka

DETAILS

The Kurono 34mm comes in four colour variations, each with a neutral black leather strap that will match in any occasion.; Darkmist, Smoke, Midnight and Persimmon. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The 34mm features arabic numeral indexes, hour and minute hands with a luminescent finish.  The blue colour of the hands is IP-plated on stainless steel to prevent rusting. 

 

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The box sapphire is anti-reflective coated on both sides and has an anti-fouling coating on the surface. The Kurono 34mm comes in a newly designed case, water- resistant to 5 bar.

==============
SPECIFICATIONS

 

 Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

 Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Case
Outer diameter 34 mm
Stainless steel case, water-resistant to 5 bar
Movement

Japan-made Premium Automatic movement 90S5 by Miyota  

28,800 vibrations / hour, 24 jewels automatic
Power reserve 40 hours
Dial and hands

Luminescent hands and hour markers
Strap

Calf leather strap

Made in Japan  🇯🇵
 

🔰 Limited to 150 per dial variant

⚠️ SOLD OUT

 Fulfilment from end-March 2023
Midnight & Darkmist deliveries starts from end-April 2023

Note that no watches will be sold at Kurono Aoyama Salon. Registration in-person to participate in Japan-domestic allocation raffle is possible.

---------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------
 ---------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
=====================================

🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com

KURONO Tokyo – Grand Urushi Aoyama Trio Edition

KURONO Tokyo – Grand Urushi Aoyama Trio Edition  

Grand Urushi Aoyama

In celebration of our new salon in Aoyama, Kurono is proud to introduce the very limited Kurono Grand Urushi Aoyama - three exceptional urushi executions limited to 188 pieces each (including those sold as a set. It takes the very best of what we have done in terms of finishing - hand-made urushi dials - and displays without any embellishments the purity and beauty of an urushi-based design by Hajime Asaoka.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The Grand Urushi Aoyama will be available as a set of three in a special Japanese paulownia wood presentation box, or individually in regular packaging. 88 sets of three will first be available in Dec 2022 with individual watches available from Feb 2023. Either set or individual can be ordered at the salon now.

Fulfilment from Dec 2022:
Set of Three: JPY 889,000 excl VAT
(Collection from 22nd Dec, customers will be contacted directly)

Fulfilment from Feb 2023:
Individual: JPY 358,500 excl VAT

The Grand Urushi Aoyama can only be ordered and picked up at the Kurono salon in Aoyama, Tokyo. All bookings require full payment and are strictly non-refundable. The watches are now exhibited in the salon.

 Handmade Urushi Purity

Urushi lacquer is made from the filtered sap of the Japanese rhus vernicifera tree. It is seen as a miraculous substance that cures naturally into a material with remarkable properties. The lacquer absorbs moisture from the air as it hardens, making the lacquered surface perpetually shiny and slick. Over time, urushi will become harder and more scratch-resistant as the curing process continues even after the initial manufacture. Suki-Urushi (or clear lacquer) seals the specific patterns on each dial. Sunlight - specifically UV light - will, over time, lighten and make it more translucent and warmer or cooler.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Urushi has been used as a lacquer in Japan for thousands of years. The sap from the lacquer tree is refined and colored with pigments and other ingredients to produce a final work characterized by its beautiful finish and durability. Lacquer trees are 10 to 20 years old when their sap can finally be harvested. After the sap is collected, the trees die, and new trees are planted by hand. Only about 200 grams of sap can be extracted from each tree, making it extremely valuable and increasingly rare.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The subtle, distinctive trait of the urushi is that when exposed to natural and UV light, it will turn brighter over time due to moisture loss which usually takes years. For our Kurono customers, depending on the country you are situated in, the urushi dial will change color, creating a unique piece for each of you.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Urushi dials have perhaps the highest rejection rate amongst all Kurono watches, if not across the industry. The surface has to be pristine, like the surface of a calm lake in autumn. Additionally, urushi dials require up to 2 months to dry and prep. Throughout the lengthy process, whether a mistake made during handpainting or even a single retained speck of dust - it would amplify imperfections during the drying process and hence has to be thrown out.

Presentation

A special presentation box in Japanese paulownia wood will be prepared for customers that purchase a set of three Grand Urushi Aoyama. Embellished directly on the wooden cover is the word 'Time' in Japanese, with the font personally designed by Hajime Asaoka.

Caseback

Kurono watches with the 'Grand' designation feature an elevated level of artisanal craftsmanship, and is differentiated not only by its innate beauty, but also with a signature caseback exclusive to 'Grand' watches.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The focal point of this exclusive caseback is Hajime-sensei’s signature embellished in bold kanji calligraphy alongside the impression of his one-of a-kind hanko stamp. 

========================
Specifications & Availability

Hand-applied urushi lacquer dial
Japan-made Premium Automatic movement 90S5 by Miyota
Unique box sapphire glass
Embellished caseback
28,800 vibrations / hour
Power reserve 40 hours
Waterproof to 3 ATM
316L high-polished 37mm stainless steel case
Thickness: 7mm (excl sapphire glass)
Black calf leather band with red/green/black embellished sides
20mm at lugs, 16mm at buckle
Made in Japan
3 exceptional urushi watches limited to 188 each (including those sold as a set), there will be no re-editions

Sales Process For Grand Urushi Aoyama

 Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The Grand Urushi Aoyama can only be ordered and picked up at the Kurono salon in Aoyama, Tokyo.

 ---------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
=====================================

🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com

KURONO Tokyo – Complications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition

KURONO Tokyo – Complications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition 2022

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is a new study in gentility and is a significant evolution of our first ever chronograph - incorporating its best design elements into the new Mk.2 chronograph case.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2's rose gold main dial and black subdials lend an air of genteel refinement. Our unique thick box-sapphire glass allows for unique lightplay like never before - vibrant sophistication that shimmers in the light and a sense of sombre maturity in the shadows. The high reflectivity of the polished steel hands, markers and elements provide added depth and contrast even in low-light for better readability. For the first time in the chronograph range, a high-polish steel applique in arabic numerals is used at '12' in an art-deco font - signifying a new chapter in the design language and construction of the chronograph line-up.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The Mk.2 chronograph case attempts to overcome significant engineering challenges Hajime Asaoka faced in the construction of the Chronograph 1 - which leveraged the Seiko NE86 that was by itself a thick movement at 7.65mm - and takes in stride collector requests for a thinner case. With the new Mk.2 case, Hajime Asaoka overcame the limitations by incorporating a design technique from the 1930s - to make the thickness of the movement imperceptible on the exterior. The Mk.2 is now a three-part case that has a much thinner visual profile, but is also built more robustly and allows for better repairability. In terms of comfort, the lugs shape and position have been newly adjusted to ensure the same comfortable fit as before.

“The NE86 caliber used by Kurono chronographs is renowned for its reliability and excellent accuracy. By the way, automatic chronograph movements, including the NE86, are generally thick, making it difficult to achieve good proportions with an exterior 38 mm and less in diameter.

The exterior design of the previously introduced chronograph series took the approach of enlarging the proportions of the chronographs from around 34mm to 38mm. The reason for this was that the diameter-to-thickness ratio of hand-wound chronograph movements of the time was close to that of the NE86. As a result, the thickness of the movement is slightly emphasized, giving it a unique impression.

 Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

In the new MK.2, the actual thickness remains almost the same [sic: slightly slimmer at13.5mm vs 13.9mm - 13.5mm is the thinnest chronograph equipped with the NE86), but the design balance has been pursued to the utmost limit so that the watch looks thinner as a 38mm exterior. In particular, the lower part of the case has been sharply narrowed to give the watch a 30% thinner visual impression when worn on the wrist. While such design innovations have been tried in past chronographs, there is a trade-off in terms of wearability, and for the MK.2, I took the time to carefully consider this aspect of the design. As a result, I believe we have created the ultimate exterior design for a 38mm automatic chronograph." ~ Hajime Asaoka

Dial & sapphire glass

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 features a high-polish arabic '12' applique at the top, flanked by our iconic polished steel studs as hour markers and a polished steel surround for the date window. The perimeter scale features pulsometer and tachymeter indicators.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The dial itself is called a cylinder dial, which is gently curved from the center to the outer edge. While most modern ebauche movements including the NE86 are designed to have flat dials, the dial of the Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is designed to be cylinder-shaped. In order to create a three-dimensional effect, the main part of the dial and the sub-dial were manufactured separately and then fitted together, wih the subdial steel surround ring being diamond-cut.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO    

A sapphire box crystal is used to give the watch a beautiful shape, similar to the acrylic glass of vintage watches. It allows for unparalleled light play, where different lighting environments allow for different looks for the watch.

Hands

The combination of leaf hands and modern hour and minute hands is an icon of Kurono. The tips of the minute and chronograph seconds hands are bent by hand to match the curves of the dial and glass. the elapsed-time subdial at '9' is set with a uniquely designed high-polished subhand in the shape of a traditional Japanese 'kyudo' arrow. The different shape of all hands is a device used in the high-end chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s, which Mr. Asaoka is fond of, and is intended to improve legibility. Anecdotally, for the very first Chronograph 1, the hands were bent by hand over the roof of a die-cast toy car to get the perfect angle consistently.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

"In my case, I often choose from traditional Japanese colours when deciding on the colour of the dial. In this case, I chose the colour 'kakishibu-iro'. In kanji, it is written like this. '柿渋色'.

Kakishibu-iro means the colour of kakishibu (iro=colour). Kakishibu is a fermented juice of the fruit persimmon, and has long been used in Japan as an antiseptic and paint. It is similar to 'salmon' in colour, but slightly brownish. It is also known as 'danjyuro-cha', as it was the favourite colour of the famous Kabuki actor Ichikawa Danjuro. The word 'cha' means brown.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

However, in kakishibu-iro the name is too long, so I simply called it salmon with the person in charge of the dial painting. I am not too particular about the name of the colour itself. I think it should simply be something that is easy to call. Therefore, salmon or pink gold is fine.

When I specify the colour of the dial, I actually check it by applying the paint I have formulated myself to the metal plate and hand it over to the person in charge of painting. This is what you see in the bottom left-hand corner of the image. The look of the colour is very important.This is the exact kakishibu-iro." ~ Hajime Asaoka.

Movement

Hajime Asaoka chose the mechanical chronograph calibre NE86 from one of Japan's most esteemed movement manufactures. Positioned by SII as its newest flagship chronograph movement and successor to the 6S - it is a premium caliber, the 311-part movement combines traditional chronograph features like a column wheel, vertical clutch, and a magic lever winding system; it has a unique three-pointed hammer system that starts, stops, and resets all three wheels simultaneously. This allows for all the counters to advance continuously rather than only at one-minute intervals. Additionally, instead of driving the minute and hour counters from the chronograph seconds wheel, each is driven by a powered wheel with its own clutch. This delivers increased accuracy and longer-term durability. The movement has a power reserve of 45 hours. The NE86 is a movement that even Mr. Asaoka, who makes his own movements, trusts.

Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is priced at US$3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. It has a limited production of hundreds that shall not be repeated. Deliveries start Christmas 2022 thru early Feb 2023.

=====================
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 1 Mk.2
Limited production of hundreds

 Click , to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

Case
Material: 316L stainless steel, polished
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 11.7mm (13.5mm including sapphire)
Glass: sapphire box crystal
Lug to lug (length): 46.8 mm
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
Salmon dial
Steel hands
Movement
Caliber NE86
Automatic winding movement
Number of jewels: 34
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 45 hours
Functions/Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Strap and buckle
Calf leather strap

🔰Limited production of 100 Pieces

 🔴 Price:  MSRP    US$ 3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. ⚠️SOLD OUT
 

---------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
=====================================

🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com