Friday, August 25, 2023

ALPINA – HERITAGE Carrée Mechanical 140 Years Edition

ALPINA HERITAGE Carrée Mechanical 140 Years Anniversary Limited Edition 2023

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Alpina celebrates its 140th anniversary with two historic mini-series

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Founded in 1883, Alpina turns 140 in 2023, and in honour of the occasion, the Swiss watchmakers are unveiling a timepiece that revives their illustrious heritage. This isn’t some re-edition or a piece inspired by a predecessor: it really is the original, made in 1938. Alpina has unearthed two 14-piece series of the authentic Calibre 490, released exactly 85 years ago; only a very few of these are still in existence. 

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The fully-restored movements, dubbed Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years, have been housed in a rectangular silver case in tribute to an outstanding wristwatch in Alpina’s history. One series features a black dial, the other a silvered dial. The feeling when you behold a perfectly-finished, rectangular-shaped movement with a sedate frequency (2,5 Hz), already fitted out with early levels of protection against water and dust, is indescribable. These are two highly limited editions, produced for History.

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“If you don't know where you've come from, you don't know where you're going” is a saying that applies to most art forms – and all the more so in watchmaking, where progress has involved a process of accretion over a period of 250 years that continues to inform the watches we wear today.

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In its 140th anniversary year, Alpina has thus sought to provide a reminder of the contribution made by its Calibre 490 movement to contemporary watchmaking. It represents something of a crossroads: a shape and top-level finishing typical of the refined elegance befitting distinguished watches, intersecting with a number of innovations bearing witness to Alpina’s concomitant desire to launch into the world of sturdy and robust watches designed by the firm today. In sum, it’s a rare and valuable calibre, unveiled at a key moment in Alpina’s history.

A highly accomplished movement

Back in 1938, the Calibre 490 already embodied Alpina’s emerging vision. It features a patented crown incorporating protection against dust – an key milestone, already making the case airtight and a first step on the way to the watertight case that would later become standard.

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The movement, protected by Swiss registered patent no. 158882, is characterised by a simple, robust construction but no less perfectly finished for that: all of its components are bevelled, and the ratchet is sun-brushed. It’s also worth noting that this is a genuine in-house calibre, designed, assembled and finished by one of the firms in the Union Horlogère,  

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Alpina’s original entity – a particularity seldom seen in the 1930s when generic ébauches (movement-blanks) were the market norm and manufacture movements the exception. Only a few period examples of this historic calibre have survived; Alpina has found and restored a small number of them to mark its 140th anniversary celebrations.

An avant-garde construction

This exceptionally rare witness to Alpina’s golden age is thus making a comeback in its original form in 2023. It’s a shaped movement in the finest watchmaking tradition, according to which the movement should reign supreme, dictating the shape of the case rather than the other way around.

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Hand-wound like almost all calibres of its day, it comprises 17 jewels and oscillates at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2,5 Hz), the standard frequency for Thirties timepieces. Its 42-hour power reserve is notably capacious for its time; another distinctive feature is the slender anchor design required to fit within the rectangular layout of the Calibre 490.

A highly robust case

Back in the day, the case was made from steel or gold depending on the model. One steel case was itself protected by a patent (No. 207378) and described as being ‘stainless’, offering further evidence of Alpina’s obsession with making its timepieces resistant to wear and tear.

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The few such cases that have survived are equipped with a number of components designed to maintain two seals under pressure to achieve some degree of watertightness. Several firms went on to draw inspiration from the patent in question in pursuit of the same goal.

Clad in silver

Today, Alpina has designed a new bespoke case to house its Calibre 490, naming the new model after it: Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years. Made from mirror polished silver, it measures 29.5 x 35.7mm. 

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With a thickness of just 9.71 millimetres, it features an anti-glare sapphire crystal on both front and rear, through which the venerable beauty of the period Calibre 490 can be admired. The timepiece comes on a light brown ostrich leather strap, with vintage white stitching and pin buckle.

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Two variations of the piece are available, each in a limited edition of 14. Both feature Alpina’s period logo, two slim central hands and the small seconds hand display at 6 o’clock so typical of the 1930s. A ‘railtrack’ minute circle, also typical of the period, runs around the dial. 

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On one version the dial is black with solid Arabic numerals, accompanied by beige hands and a circular small seconds hand display. The other version sports a silvered dial, black hands and the squarer outline Arabic numerals favoured in the Roaring Twenties, along with a square small seconds hand display.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  HERITAGE Carrée Mechanical 140 Years Edition 

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Reference AL-490BA3C10 - Black dial
Reference  AL-490SA3C10  - Silver dial

Movement
AL-490 caliber, hand-winding  

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42-hour power reserve, 18’000 alt/h, 17 jewels
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds 
Case
Polished silver 2-part case
Dimensions of 29.50 x 35.70 mm
Height of 9,71 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM/30m/100ft
Engraved and see-through screwed case back
Dial

Black dial with matt finishing
Beige printed Arabic numerals and beige graduation
Beige hour and minute hands
Silver dial with matt finishing
Black printed Arabic numerals and black graduation
Black hour and minute hands
Small second counter at 6 o’clock with beige hand
Strap
Light brown Ostrich leather strap with off-white stitching
Pin buckle

🔰Limited edition  to 14 pieces

🔴 Price 4,995 EUR 💰

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Press release - 2022
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For more information on our watches, please visit our website or feel free to contact us directly. 

You can email Mrs. Camille Merré, PR Manager, at cmerre@alpina-watches.com
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Thursday, August 24, 2023

JACOB & CO. – "The World Is Yours" Dual Time Zone Edition

 

JACOB & CO.HIGH COMPLICATION  "The World Is Yours" Dual Time Zone Gold Edition 2023

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This is the story of the watch that started it all. The watch that opened the world and the world of watchmaking to Jacob Arabo."The World Is Yours" Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to an Arabov family heirloom, inspired by a double time zone watch that Jacob Arabov received at the age of 13, from the hands of his father, Nison Arabov.

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A timepiece so special in his eyes that it gave him the desire and the determination to one day create his own timepieces. It is the original spark that inspired every single Jacob & Co. timepiece. This watch is still in the family, waiting to be passed on to the next generation. While waiting, it became the inspiration for The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone.

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Creation is a personal, emotional process for Jacob Arabo. And in this case, one that rings closest to the heart. So "The World Is Yours" Dual Time Zone is more than a two timezone watch, with independent hours and minutes. It's more than a piece of beautiful craft, with a great domed dial, featuring the Earth as seen from the sky. It's proof that a father's love is the key that unlocks the world.

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 The three generations reunited: from left, Benjamin Arabov, Jacob Arabo, Nison Arabov.

Picture the scene. The place is Tashkent, Uzbekistan, then a Republic from the USSR, where the Arabov family originates from. In the room are Jacob Arabov, aged 13, and his father, Nison Arabov. Between them, an exchange takes place. From one hand to the other, a watch is being gifted and with it, intense emotion. 

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The original watch Jacob Arabov received at 13 years old.

Forty-five years later, these very same men, joined by their son and grandson Benjamin Arabov, pose together for a family portrait. Three generations united by a common legacy, with a very special timepiece as a common thread. A timepiece that represents the world as if saying “Go, my son! Go conquer it!

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Watches passed on from father to son carry unique importance. They are way more than a mere object: a symbol of what's really being transmitted: values, love, wisdom, blessings and not a little amount of pressure to succeed. 

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That specific timepiece bears the once-famous Wakmann brand name, and it would go on to inspire every Jacob & Co. watch ever made.

 The new chapter

There is always an intimate component in a Jacob & Co. creation. Design never comes out of the blue. It's rooted in a story, a desire, and for Jacob Arabov, that story always has something to do with passion. What he does, he does entirely. What he designs, he designs wholeheartedly. In that respect, The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is the most authentic creation he ever undertook. It comes from the heart.

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In a moving gesture of respect, gratitude, love and care, Jacob Arabo and Benjamin Arabov decided that this new collection would be named The World Is Yours, as a tribute to Mr. Nison Arabov, the man that gave them the True North in their life. A true north that is represented on The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone in the shape of a wind rose, serving as small seconds.

A family legacy

Two sub-dials caught between two engravings, one of Europe, the other of the Americas : the timepiece Jacob Arabov received had a two time zone complication. A dial that represents a map view of the world was a rare sight at the time, and not traditional at all. 

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Especially not one depicting the West in the USSR. Picturing the West was a luxury afforded privately, secretly even in that time and place. Yet that's what the Arabov family did, and so they eventually managed to leave and reached the U.S.A.

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Nison Arabov's gift to his son was a sign, a reminder that the world is an open possibility, that it can be reached and conquered. And so, as he received it, Jacob Arabov decided he would one day make watches, his own watches. In a way, this timepiece is the mother of all Jacob & Co. timepieces, or rather, their father.

Showing the way

The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is the first timepiece from the new The World Is Yours collection. Because of its original inspiration, the first complication Jacob & Co. implemented is a double time zone with two sub-dials. It's sitting inside a 43-mm rose gold case where everything is curved. Its bezel is stepped, rounded and very thin in order to offer the largest dial possible. It's followed by a large, highly domed sapphire crystal. 

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This is a necessary feature as the dial itself is curved, like the Earth it represents. The height difference between its lower and highest points is an astonishing 3.7 mm. As a result, the hands are also curved. The crown is short, integrated into the case outline, rounded, polished and discreet.

Grasping the Earth

The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone dial is a testament to Jacob & Co.'s sense of craft and detail. On either side of the Atlantic Ocean, three continents are represented. Northern, Central and Southern America to the west, Africa, Europe and the western most parts of Asia to the East, including the Arabian Peninsula.

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Each landmass is stamped and rendered in a rose gold finish of exceptional relief. Mountains and depressions present a high level of detail and realism. They're given extra presence by the curvature of the dial. Overall, this dial gives the impression of seeing Earth from space. But the world is a globe. And The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone represents all of it. 

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The caseback is full, also made of 18k rose gold, and engraved. This is where the rest of the world lies. From Europe to Japan, depicting all of Africa and Asia. Against the skin. Hidden from view from everyone, except the wearer.

Crafting the world

The dial is a highly domed brass plate. The continents' outlines are carved with a high precision laser. Their surface is stamped using a purpose-built, high-accuracy mold. All three sub-dials are carved into the dial plate. The entire piece then undergoes a galvanic treatment covering it in rose gold.

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The oceans and seas are lacquered blue, an operation so delicate it's entirely made by hand. Lastly, Roman and Arabic numerals and the minute tracks are gold-stamped into place on top of the blue lacquer. And with that final touch, The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone becomes a profound technical, aesthetic and emotional creation.

Powering the orbit

The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is powered by a brand new Jacob & Co. exclusive caliber. It indicates two time zones, complete with hours and minutes, vertically aligned on either side of a small seconds. Each time zone can be set at will using the crown, down to the minute. This feature is very rare, but completely indispensable in Jacob & Co.'s view. It is the only way countries with an unusual UTC time offset can display both their local time and another one.

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Such is the case of India and its 1.3 bn inhabitants. Indian Standard Time is UTC + 05:30 on the entire sub-continent. Its small seconds hand is a rose wind with four main arms, one of which is painted red to act as a pointer. It symbolizes the compass one needs to navigate the world. 

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It is the one that helps us find our bearings, like the moral compass provided by M. Nison Arabov. Logically, it sits in the center, at the highest point of the domed dial.

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Technical Specifications

Collection:  HIGH COMPLICATION

Model :   "The World Is Yours" Dual Time Zone Edition 
 
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ITEM NUMBER: DT100.40.AA.AA.ABALA


Case
    Material: 18
K Rose Gold
    Diameter: 43 mm
    Height: 14 mm
    Case Back: 18K Rose Gold; Laser-Engraved World Map
    Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-Reflective Treatment
    Water resistance: 30 m
Dial and hands
    Blue Lacquered Dial, Stamped Continents with Rose Gold Finish;
    Compass Rose in the Center; Rose Gold-Plated Hands; Hand-Fitting inclined at 12°
Movement
    Caliber: Manufacture Jacob & Co. Self-Winding JCAA11
    Diameter: 29.50 mm
    Height: 6.80 mm
    Number of parts: 206
    Number of jewels: 33
    Power reserve: 42 Hours
    Frequency: 28’800 vib/h (4 Hz)

Functions/Indications
    Double timezone with independent hours and minutes
    Central Small Seconds
Strap and buckle
    Blue Alligator Leather
    18K Rose Gold Pin Buckle

 🔰 Limited Edition of 999 pieces

🔴 Price: USD  57,000 $💰

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Press Release - 2023
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For media inquiries please contact:
Jacob & Co. Corporate Office
susan@jacobandco.com
+1.212.719.5887
Europe & Trade Press
press.gva@jacobandco.com
+41.22.310.6962
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