Thursday, March 27, 2014

H. MOSER & CIE. – VENTURER Small Seconds


















H. MOSER & CIE.VENTURER Small Seconds Collection NEW

Venturer is the new family of watches, representing the second phase of Moser’s life. Soon after establishing H. Moser & Cie. in St. Petersburg in 1828, his timepieces were in demand. His exquisite creations graced the arms of Russian princes and members of the Imperial Court. In fact, most Fabergé table clocks were equipped with H. Moser movements.

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With this success, Heinrich Moser established a manufacturing site in Le Locle, drawing on contacts made during his time there. A strength of Moser was his ability to recruit capable individuals to manage his operations. With his products crossing oceans and moving down the Silk Road through a network of boutiques, this astute judgement served him well.



Moser had a clear vision of marketing and commerce. He remarked, “The basis of a manufacturing business must be good and appealing products”. He explained that, “If my tailor supplies a jacket from which the hanging loop is missing, he will have lost credibility with me, even if the jacket fits well. I will regard him as a skilful tailor but a poor businessman ….” It is this mindset that resulted in Moser crafting high -precision timepieces imbued with grace and exceptional craftsmanship, as well as featuring innovation. These principles have been embraced with the new Venturer Collection which takes its name from Moser’s commercial ventures that attracted the patronage of clients from around the globe.

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The Venturer Collection of watches is infused with design elements from traditional pocket watches, but they also reference the 1920s Bauhaus era and feature the convex crystals of the 1960s. This collection includes a new in-house manufacture movement, the Calibre HMC 327.

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With a mixture of pioneering spirit, well-judged ambition and ingenuity, the third phase of Heinrich Moser’s life will be depicted with a further family of very rare watches. However, in the same way Heinrich did not reveal his plans for harnessing hydro power on the river Rhine, keeping his plans secret, the public will have to wait to learn of the final part of this exceptional trilogy – at least until 2016.

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VENTURER – A NEW FAMILY OF PRODUCTS
Heinrich Moser’s entrepreneurial spirit is celebrated with the new Venturer Collection of watches. The Venturer Small Seconds with its HMC 327 movement, the first timepiece in the collection, reaffirms H Moser & Cie.’s renown for crafting high precision timepieces, imbued with grace and exceptional craftsmanship. Taking cues from the company’s historic pocket watches, the Venturer Collection also incorporates pure design elements from the 20th century

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The inspiration for this latest collection from H. Moser & Cie. is the second phase of Heinrich Moser’s professional ventures in the Russian city of St. Petersburg. Established in 1828, H. Moser & Cie. soon attracted the patronage of the Imperial Court. Indeed, Moser quickly built his reputation and saw the watchmaking business that bore his name flourish and become a resounding commercial success.

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 Design elements of the new Venturer collection

The Venturer Collection is infused with design elements from traditional pocket watches but also with a clever mix of cues from the Bauhaus era of the 1920s and convex forms of the 1960s. This includes a larger bezel opening, revealing the extremely restrained and elegant H. Moser signature fumé dial. In keeping with the clean lines of the crystal, bezel and case, the dial surface has a convex profile and the hands follow this contour, according a delightful depth to their form and an attention to detail that grows on closer inspection. The baton design and the curved edge of the swallow-shaped hands are long and slim, expressing a dynamic character. Refined lines are a key attribute to the design language of the new Venturer Collection.


Carefully selected features are shared with the Endeavour Collection, such as the crown with the Moser M” adorning its vertical flank. The curving lines of the satin brushed area embellish the case band, swooping downwards to convene beneath the crown. The resultant mien is exquisite and imparts a joyous moment of discovery on first acquaintance. All elements of this crafted timepiece harmoniously blend, identifying the Venturer as unmistakably H. Moser.

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 The Venturer small seconds, a greater choice

The Venturer Small Seconds is the very first model of the Venturer Collection, featuring a small seconds display deliberately positioned as close to the bottom of the dial as possible. This model is available in three different references, each exhibiting its own unique character. The choice of three 18-carat red gold models, includes an ardoise or a sensual argenté dial, as well as the unusual, and highly attractive, new signature dial in red gold fumé.

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In creating the Venturer Collection, H. Moser & Cie. has initiated a range of refined timepieces with a design that engages with an arresting presence. With plans to expand the Venturer Collection with additional models as well as complications, the ambition of H. Moser & Cie. reaffirms its entrepreneurial heritage and its reputation for ingenious products.

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 HMC 327 small seconds – a new movement openly revealed

The Venturer Collection includes a new in-house manufacture movement for 2014, the Calibre HMC 327. This calibre is characterized by its traditional watchmaking finishing, minimum power reserve of three days and a hacking seconds function. Measuring 32 mm in diameter, the Calibre HMC 327 is optimally sized to suit the 39.2 mm case of the new Venturer Small Seconds. The HMC 327 has also been designed to sit closely to the exhibition case-back, allowing the wearer to enjoy an intimate view of the fine finishing practised at H. Moser & Cie.


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The HMC 327 is the result of a close examination of historic movements, an evolution that delivers optimised performance and efficiency. By introducing this calibre in the new Venturer Collection, the company has a range of prestigious watches that uphold its matchless watchmaking standards and display considerable efficiencies in production and assembly.

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Such efficiencies provide benefits through state-of-the art technology in the form of a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel. Silicon is anti-magnetic and confers low-friction; benefits which cannot be ignored.

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Conversely, traditions are also respected. The in-house Straumann Hairspring® features a hand-applied Breguet overcoil, enhancing isochronism. The balance wheel includes gold screws facilitating precise poising of the balance. Adorning the movement is the H. Moser company hallmark, expertly engraved in gold, although in keeping with the refined design, the engraving is reduced to a minimum against the backdrop of Moser stripes that adorn the bridges of the HMC 327.

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This new collection stands testament to the pride of the skilled team who work patiently, crafting fine watches that are exceptional and very rare.

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TECHNICAL FEATURES VENTURER SMALL SECONDS

Reference 2327-0401, red gold model, red gold fumé dial, brown strap
Reference 2327-0402, red gold model, ardoise dial, brown strap
Reference 2327-0400, red gold model, argenté dial, brown strap
Case
18-carat red gold, three-part
Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 12.5 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Dials
Red gold fumé, ardoise or argenté with sunburst pattern
Appliqué indexes
18-carat red gold hands
Movement
In-house hand-wound Calibre HMC 327
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes
Height: 4.4 mm
Frequency: 18’000 vib/h
28 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Hacking seconds
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Functions
Hour and minute
Small seconds hand and sub-dial
Power reserve indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched brown alligator strap
Solid 18-carat red gold pin buckle, with engraved Moser logo

Press release 
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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Wednesday, March 26, 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Tri-Axial Tourbillon




GIRARD-PERREGAUX  Tri-Axial Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW



The Tri-Axial Tourbillon represents a major success for Girard-Perregaux, a historic specialist in the mastery of this precision watch mechanism. This is a new step for the Manufacture in its quest for chronometric perfection with a high-speed tourbillon on three separate axes.

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A complex mechanism aimed at optimizing chronometric precision, the tourbillon has been a specialty of Girard-Perregaux for over a century and a half. Once again, the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds demonstrates its mastery of the subject, taking its search for precision even further with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon.

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This development embodies the quintessence of time measurement based on the physical principle of the elimination of disturbances, the first being the Earth's gravitational pull. As it is designed on three planes instead of the traditional one, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon optimizes its performance and showcases a captivating spectacle.

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The external parts therefore needed to be specially adapted in order to integrate this extraordinary caliber. The tourbillon's triple cage required the integration of a domed lens that rests against the sapphire crystal in order to provide the necessary interior volume. 

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With the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux therefore delivers a brilliant demonstration of its expertise and its constant search for watchmaking excellence.

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Three axes
The Tri-Axial Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux features a regulator on three separate axes. At its heart beats a traditional tourbillon. Its cage performs one rotation in one minute.

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  It is integrated within a structure positioned on a second axis and performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. Finally, both are inserted into a third system. The ensemble is placed on a third axis and performs one rotation in 2 minutes. The diameter of the ensemble comes to 13.78 mm.

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With a total weight of 1.24 grams, the cage and the drive systems are made of steel. The support pillars are in titanium, or in pink gold to act as a counterweight where the kinetic balance required this. As for the balance, it integrates 16 pink gold adjustment micro-screws. It has an increased frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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Exceptional finishes
A masterpiece of modern engineering, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon caliber remains absolutely faithful to the purest of traditions. The cage adopts the lyre shape that has been characteristic of Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons since the 19th century. Haute Horlogerie timepieces demand components that are decorated and finished by hand with the greatest care. They therefore present mirror-polished surfaces and perfect chamfering (especially on a number of inward angles which are particularly difficult to finish).

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The gear train is circular-grained and the sides are satin-brushed. On the case-back, the eagle, the symbol of the manufacture since 1897, is engraved and a plaque in the arrow shape of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges' iconic bridges bears the individual number of each piece. This shape is also found on the emblematic gold bridges also visible on the back of the movement.

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laying hours, minutes and a time reserve indicator, the new GP09300 mechanical caliber with manual winding measures 36.10 mm in diameter with a height of 16.83 mm. It comprises 317 components and has a minimum power reserve of 52 hours.

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Multiple dial
Constructed on several levels, the dial of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon presents a wide aperture at 9 o'clock that reveals the hypnotic ballet of the regulation system.

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At half past one, a silver dial with Clous de Paris motif presents numerals and hour markers in pink gold. It is encircled with an applique in pink gold and a black flange that displays the minutes numerals in white. The beveled, skeleton-shaped dauphine hands are crafted from pink gold.

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Starting at the center of the watch, the power reserve indicator follows a curve that ends at 6 o'clock. Designed graphically to form an array of circles and curves, the dial presents concentric, regular stripes in the areas that have been left empty. Like Japanese zen stone gardens, these gray-colored areas counterbalance the clear technicality of the timepiece with their understatement and simplicity. Girard-Perregaux's initials gleam in pink gold at 11 o'clock.

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Complex sapphire crystal
Crafted from pink gold, the case respects the design codes of Girard-Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection with a beveled bezel, a rounded case-center and lugs that narrow out elegantly towards the exterior. The superior sapphire crystal presents a spectacular construction. At 9 o'clock, a domed sapphire crystal, designed to highlight the tourbillon's three axes, is applied to the main crystal, which is first pierced to the required diameter.

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 A toric-shaped sapphire crystal is also integrated into the side of the case at 9 o'clock in order to show this fascinating spectacle from another angle. Finally, the case-back, which is screwed and transparent, reveals the entire movement and, in particular, the satiny circular bridge engraved with the words "Tri-Axial" that supports the differential of the tourbillon system.

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The Tri-Axial Tourbillon is available in a 10-piece limited edition.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 99815-52-251-BA6A

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 48.00 mm
Dial: gray anthracite
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire with dome to cover the tourbillon
Case-back: anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal
Apertures on the side to reveal the movement / anti-reflective toric crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP09300-0001
Mechanical, manual winding movement
Diameter: 36.10 mm (16 ''')
Thickness: 16.83 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h - (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 52 hours
Jewels: 34
Number of components: whole movement: 317
Two-arrow Bridges: in pink gold
Tourbillon:
  • Tourbillon cage: 140 components for 1.24 g
  • 3 axes
  • One rotation every 1 minute on the first axis, every 30 seconds on the second axis, every 2 minutes on the third axis.
  • Poised upper and lower cages with pink gold counterpoise
  • Beveled and hand-polished pallets bridge
  • Balance wheel: variable inertia with pink gold setting screw
All components of the movement have hand finishing according to Haute Horlogerie criteria.
Functions: Tri-Axial tourbillon, hour, minute, power reserve indicator
Wristband
Black alligator leather strap with hand stitches
Pink gold folding buckle

Limited edition: 10-piece

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