Thursday, February 13, 2014

Girard-Perregaux – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections


GIRARD-PERREGAUX – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections NEW

Girard-Perregaux iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections pay tribute to the traditional blue colour of the Brand


As one of the fundamental primary colors embodying all that is eternal, powerful and elegant, the Girard-Perregaux flagship 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections now feature dials clad exclusively in blue.

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By its choice of elegant tone, the Swiss Manufacturer offers lovers of fine watches an extra touch of originality and acknowledges the prominence that color has played in many of its historic timepieces. In the closing years of the 18th century, Girard-Perregaux’s founder Jean-François Bautte, was one of the first master watchmakers to make successful use of this distinctive tone, in what was seen at the time as a revolutionary development. It has been a regular feature of Girard-Perregaux watches ever since.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 


The Girard-Perregaux 1966 model combines understatement, delicacy and precision. It is admirably balanced design and well-proportioned dimensions make it one of the most immaculately finished timepieces.
Its magnificent, slightly-domed dial is now presented in a deep blue tone. A subtle sunburst effect creates an interplay of reflections, which makes the light appear to dance with each movement of the watch. Displaying the date in a window at 3 o'clock, the dial is adorned with elegant gilded baton hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, plus a double marker at 12 o'clock. Its leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are also gilded, as is its straight large seconds hand.

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Crafted in pink gold, the case, with its slightly protruding middle surmounted by a beveled, diamond-effect bezel, gives the watch a profile of rare distinction. It has a diameter of 38 mm and is 8.62 mm thick. Inside the case the GP03300-0030 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement beats its rhythm as it marks out the hours, minutes, seconds and date. It has a power reserve of up to 46 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is fitted with a pink gold pin buckle and alligator strap that matches the deep blue tone of the dial.

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Technical Specifications
 Ref: 49525-52-432-BB4A (Blue dial Blue alligator strap )

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 38.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Calibre: Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0030
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Functions: hour, minute, central second, date
Blue alligator strap
Pink gold pin buckle

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Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second


The Vintage 1945 XXL collection combines an attractive rectangular case with features representing the most authentic Art Deco style of watchmaking. The new Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second introduces a blue dial as well with iridescent reflections into the range for the first time. Like the case, the dial presents a profile that is twice as curved further emphasized by a vertical brushed effect.

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This contrasts with the satin finish of the small second indication, whose red figure "60" represents the sole touch of bright color to be found in the ensemble. The edge of the dial is surrounded by a railtrack minute circle accompanied by polished "Breguet" applique numerals. The Dauphine-type minute and hour hands are faceted and delicately curved by hand to follow the shape of the dial thus creating a sparkling interplay of light.

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The imposing 36.20 mm x 35.25 mm polished steel case features two vertical gadroons at 12 and 6 o'clock. Equipped with a GP03300-0051 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement, the Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second timepiece indicates the hours, minutes and small seconds.

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The model is available in two different versions. The first is equipped with a navy blue alligator strap while the second is fitted with a steel bracelet.

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Technical Specifications

Case: steel
Dimensions: 36.20 x 35.25 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by four screws
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0051
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 32
Functions: hour, minute, small second
Blue alligator strap
Steel folding buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-BB4A
Steel bracelet
Safety folding with triple-blade buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-11A

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

















Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

It is not the first time Parmigiani Fleurier has combined a large date with a minute repeater. However, no watchmaker has ever before offered instantaneous rotation of such a colossal date. The Toric Résonance 3 is in this sense, a world-first.

AN INSTANTANEOUS OUT-SIZED DATE

Consider the following: if the Toric Résonance 3 had featured a continuous date change occurring within a few hours in a smooth and uniform motion, the mechanical challenge would be moderate. But because we’re talking about an instantaneous date jump occurring in 1/100th of a second, so fast in fact, that its transition is invisible to the eye, this timepiece is a true mechanical feat.
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Despite being cut to an incredible fineness, the out-sized date discs have an immense inertia. This means they require huge amounts of energy to launch in rotation and even more to stop them dead following the instantaneous jump, without them rebounding under the effect of the forces exerted. It’s much like launching a huge truck at 100 km/h in a split second and then having to stop it within a meter.

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Hence every night at midnight, the Toric's white gold case plays host to this extraordinary mechanical feat based on a double cam system. The first cam accumulates energy through continuous friction over the course of 24 hours.

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This arms the large lever continuously, releasing it at midnight precisely onto a 31-tooth wheel. The second cam plays the crucial role of a brake, by controlling a spring-mounted lever. This device keeps the large date discs permanently immobile, releasing them for just a fraction of a second every 24 hours at midnight to allow the instantaneous jump.


A MINUTE REPEATER WITH CATHEDRAL CHIME

Activated by a trigger to the left of the case, the minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes with a vibrant melody. A minute repeater qualifies for “cathedral chime” when its gongs cover at least 1,5 times the perimeter of the case. The Toric Résonance 3 goes a step beyond this requirement with beautiful snake-shaped gongs that circle twice around the borders of the movement.

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It’s very challenging to accommodate within the small and intricate space of an Haute Horlogerie watch case, but the sound of the chime is considerably richer and more beautiful which makes the true value of a minute repeater at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case in white gold – the perfect material to enhance the sound’s resonance – puts the finishing touch to the beautiful melody.

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The Toric Résonance 3 is a quest to the extreme.  It’s about maximising the size of a date until the very limits of mechanical constraints; creating a harmonious melody until the entire physical space has been consumed; finishing each component with absolute care and hours of devotion, even when they are hidden from
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Technical details

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre: PF359
Winding : Manual
Power reserve : 48 hours
Dimensions : 15''' - Ø 33.80 mm
Thickness : 8.89 mm
Frequency : 2.5 Hz - 18.000 A/h
Jewels : 33
Barrel(s) : 1
Components : 459
Decoration : Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Hours, Minutes
Minute repeater
Instantaneous big date accumulator
CASE 
Shape : 3-part round case
Dimensions : Ø 45 mm
Thickness : 14.1
Material : White gold 18 ct
Finishing : Polished
Water resistance : 10 m
Glass : Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown : Ø 7 mm
Back : Sapphire
Back engraving : "MODELE UNIQUE" and individual number
DIAL 
Finishing : Blasted opaline outer, guilloche and hand-engraved centre
Colour : Silver
Index : Black lacquered appliques
Hands : Delta-shaped, lacquered
BRACELET
Material : Alligator
Colour : Black
Brand : Hermès
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillon



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