Saturday, February 23, 2013

Harry Winston - Histoire de Tourbillon 4 Limited Edition
















HARRY WINSTON - Histoire de Tourbillon 4 Limited Edition NEW

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For all of the complexity that the tourbillon embodies, it began with a beautiful idea; and like most beautiful things, the idea itself was very simple.
A watch, after all, is a machine of wonderful economy. There is an oscillator, or a circular balance, which swings back and forth a specific number of times per second. Essentially, the whole rest of the watch exists to count the number of beats per second of the oscillator at its heart, and as long as the beat never changes, the watch will be accurate. Unchanging perfection in precision is the watchmaker's dream. But the dream can be rudely interrupted by reality. Many natural forces can affect a watch’s accuracy, and among the most powerful of these forces is the very power that holds the universe itself together and keeps the planets in their orbits: gravity.


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For Harry Winston, the Histoire de Tourbillon collection is an exploration of how the tourbillon – magnificent in its simplicity, mesmerizing in its execution, enthralling in its motion – might evolve. The most recent introduction to this collection, Histoire de Tourbillon 4, continues the spirit of invention that has been the hallmark of the Histoire de Tourbillon timepieces since their inception. In Histoire de Tourbillon 4, a radical re-interpretation of the original design of the tourbillon makes it a tourbillon that is truly a child of the 21st century, with aesthetics that reflect the modernity and high precision instrumentality of this re-interpretation. The tourbillon was patented by its inventor in 1801 and was originally designed to solve a problem inherent to pocket-watches generally kept in waistcoat pockets: since they remained fairly constantly in the same vertical position, the force of gravity had detrimental effects on their accuracy. 


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The tourbillon places the critical regulating organs of a watch in a rotating cage, so that they are never in any fixed position long enough for this to occur. At the time, a tourbillon which had only one cage, rotating in a single plane, sufficed. But the modern wristwatch, which assumes an almost infinite number of different positions during the day, demands a cutting edge solution –and it was from this necessity that Histoire de Tourbillon 4 was born. The heart of Histoire de Tourbillon 4 is a single oscillator, contained within three concentric cages, each of which rotates not only at a different speed, but at a different angle with respect to the other cages. As the wristwatch is truly an inhabitant of three dimensional space, so the tourbillon must transcend its origins and become one as well. The innermost cage, which encloses the oscillator and escapement, rotates once every 45 seconds. The intermediate cage, which encloses the first, rotates once every 75 seconds. And the third, outermost cage rotates at a stately speed of one revolution every 300 seconds –all together ensuring that at no moment will gravity be able to disturb the steady heartbeat of the oscillator.

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 Such an achievement is all the more remarkable when one remembers that in an ordinary watch, enormous precision is necessary to get enough power to the oscillator for it to beat strongly and regularly. In a tourbillon, even greater precision must be achieved, as the mainspring must drive not only the heart of the watch, but the cages that protect it from gravity as well. Triple the cages, and you triple the problem, making Histoire de Tourbillon 4 one of the most complex mechanical timekeepers ever made. Throughout Histoire de Tourbillon 4, enhancements and refinements in construction that extend to every aspect of the movement ensure superb performance and split second accuracy, including two, fast rotating barrels to deliver superior energy with lower friction, and a tourbillon that despite its dimensions is almost unbelievably light: only 1.57 grams. The most essential component, of course, is the oscillator itself, the balance wheel and the delicate balance spring, which must be made to the highest standard of precision in order for the triple tourbillon system to fulfill its promise. Thus, the balance is of the variable inertia type, avoiding the potentially disturbing influence of a conventional regulator; the effective inertia of the balance is controlled by means of 18k gold timing screws in the rim. The balance spring must "breathe" as perfectly concentrically as possible, and so it has been made with a Phillips curve. This is a method of forming the outermost coil of the spring so that it ends, in a Geneva-type stud, above the other spring coils.
To provide a strong, light, corrosion-resistant foundation for its mechanism, the plates and the bridges are made of titanium –a use of a high tech material in dynamic contrast to the hand-applied chamfering of the main plate and bridges. 


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These enhancements not only make the Histoire de Tourbillon 4 oscillating system remarkably efficient, but also –thanks to the low energy consumption engendered by such precise construction –allow the timepiece to have a power reserve of a full 50 hours. The resolutely precision-oriented nature of Histoire de Tourbillon 4 is borne out in its dramatic but refined design, which acknowledges the traditional codes of watchmaking while evoking a highly contemporary architectural style. Arranged in multiple levels, the triple tourbillon carriages are fitted with an indicator for the running seconds reminiscent of the air-carving blades of high performance aircraft propellers. Bold, contemporary colors, and the "open grid" dial configuration which illuminates the movement further suggest both the dynamism and form-follows-function aesthetic of the best of modern architecture and mechanical design, as well as further emphasizing the link to the world of cockpit instrumentation. The multi-level arrangement of domed sapphire crystals and intricately interlocked mechanisms suggest a miniature mechanical metropolis –a utopian dream of horological perfection.

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Of course, such work of art does not come into being overnight. Over 3,500 hours of painstaking labor were required to develop Histoire de Tourbillon 4, and further testing and homologation of this most high performance of movements consumes over 400 additional hours. The most skilled watchmakers take a full 160 working hours to assemble the 345 movement components, which are then placed in a luxurious 18k polished white gold case, with Harry Winston's signature ZaliumTM case band, arches, lugs.
This exclusive and magnificently different timepiece is available in a limited edition of only 20 pieces worldwide, and for those who experience it, it will be a living symbol of the endless possibilities to be explored by Harry Winston, in the undiscovered country that is the future of the tourbillon.

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Technical Specifications
Ref. HCOMDT47WZ001

The case, in 18kt polished white gold and Zalium with DLC treatment (case band, arches, lugs and tourbillon bezel) measures 47mm x 21.7mm. 

Both crystals are sapphire and it is water resistant to 30 meters.

The three-dimensional dial has a black gold finish, with apertures on the movement, black galvanic flange and appliques. 

Black and silver applied hours, minutes and power-reserve indicator with horizontal satin-brushed counters centers. 
Engraved, black galvanic "HW" emerald logo at the center of the hours counter and indeces filled with black, grey, orange and blue varnish.

Movement is the Swiss manual-wind, 

Harry Winston in-house, patented, caliber HW4501
It measures 40.4mm x 17.3mm. It is a tri-axial tourbillon. 
It is made of 345 pieces, 134 of which are for the tourbillon (which weighs 1.5grams). 
Functions are: hours, minutes, 300 seconds indication on the tourbillon and power reserve complication.

It has 59 jewels, beats at 21,600 vph and has a power reserve of 50 hours. 

It has twin barrels in rapid rotation (one turn in 3.2 hours) and one barrel is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. 
The variable-inertia balance wheel has 18 gold adjustment screws. 
The balance spring features a Phillips curve and a Geneva-type stud.

The main plate is titanium, micro-blasted, hand-chamfered and PVD treated. 

The bridges are titanium, polished, hand-chamfered and PVD treated. 
It also has a polished gold, hand-chamfered intermediate carriage bridge. 
The tourbillon has an internal carriage containing the balance spring and the escapement pinion with a rotating cycle of 45 seconds; Intermediate carriage rotating cycle of 75 seconds; 
External carriage rotating cycle of 300 seconds. 
The carriage pillars are done in titanium, with circular graining, and are PVD treated. 
Limited Edition of 20 pieces
The strap is hand-sewn black alligator with an 18kt white gold double-ardillon buckle.



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Thursday, February 21, 2013

RJ-Romain Jerome - SPACECRAFT
















RJ-Romain Jerome - SPACECRAFT Limited Edition NEW


INTERGALACTIC MISSION WITH RJ-ROMAIN JEROME AND ITS SPACECRAFT !


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RJ-Romain Jerome unveils its first pilot’s watch: the Spacecraft
 



















Stemming from the joint endeavours of Manuel Emch, Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, this new timepiece features a complication with its own discreet charm, combined with a pure, restrained design. Space pilots of the world, prepare for lift-off! The Spacecraft will carry you off on an intergalactic mission to explore uncharted territories…

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In taking up this challenge, Manuel Emch, CEO of RJ-Romain Jerome, chose to associate with two of the top names in the watch industry: Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The three men pooled their ideas and their creativity to give rise to a unique timepiece they named Spacecraft. Right from the first sketches, Manuel Emch and Eric Giroud imagined a very different type of product, combining retro-futuristic aesthetics and horological complexity. 


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 “The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object”, explains Eric Giroud. An unusual trapeze-shaped model featuring a black PVD-coated titanium case, the Spacecraft both surprises and intrigues. Its rectilinear profile and its facetted surface echo the aesthetic of spacecraft. A black rotating disc with a red indicator transferred on the sapphire crystal indicates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear hour display is read off laterally, thereby giving time a whole new dimension.

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The pure lines and the apparent simplicity of the Spacecraft
conceal a particularly complex movement – which is where the third mastermind behind the project comes into the picture: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. It was in the latter’s Geneva-based manufacturing facility Agenhor that this mechanical self-winding movement was exclusively developed for RJ-Romain Jerome. “The combination of these four functions – lateral, linear, jumping and retrograde hours – is unprecedented”, says Jean-Marc Wiederrecht

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The movement features a kind of spring-driven carriage that drives the hour display visible on the side of the watch by means of a red-lacquered cursor moving beneath the metallised sapphire crystal every 60 minutes. The dragging minutes, appearing on a black disc, are read off on the top of the case that also features beadblasted titanium plates. Time-setting is done via a screw-lock crown at 12 o’clock. The Spacecraft watch is fitted with a black polyamide mesh strap. 
This 99-piece limited edition will delight devotees of horological complexity and original products.

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Manuel Emch sums it up in these terms: “The concept we have created with this collection reflects a new approach for the brand, meaning facilitating access to innovative, contemporary and offbeat watchmaking.”

With this exceptional creation, RJ-Romain Jerome offers a new way of reading the time, as the well-named Spacecraft carries you away to explore new planets at the speed of light.


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