De Bethune – CURRENT DB28GS ‘John Player Special’ Black Zirconium Edition 2022
De Bethune in Black and Gold
A nod to the daring age of Formula 1 in the 1970s, but also, and above all, to that key period of mechanical and aerodynamic research... De Bethune captures this spirit with the DB28GS 'JPS'.
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Those of us who were boys and girls in the early 1970s remember seeing the black and gold 'rockets' through their teenage eyes; the drivers and their black and gold suits; the black and gold helmets; the engineers whose work we glimpsed for the first time thanks to the installation of cameras in the pits...
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A sporty black and gold watch; a nod to the bold 'JPS' spirit of the era
What a pleasure for Denis Flageollet and his team to go back to that time and indulge in “tuning” his first sports watch – the DB28GS – so as to offer a black and gold version in steel, titanium and zirconium.
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Mechanical communion
1978. The Lotus 78 JPS Mark III revolutionised the aerodynamics of competitive motoring. Its all-new upturned aeroplane wing profile enabled it to leverage the suction effect. The car was truly 'glued' to the track, spectacular, innovative, defying convention and committed to uncharted optimization territory. Its unique handling enabled Mario Andretti to become a legend in his own right, and the Lotus team with him.
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To clarify matters, it is worth recalling that air is also a fluid, albeit an invisible one. A Swiss mathematician, Daniel Bernoulli, developed a principle stating that within the flow of a fluid, an acceleration occurs simultaneously with a decrease in pressure. This is what enables an aeroplane to fly. Its wings have two different profiles: on the curved side, the air goes faster (because it has to cover a greater distance); while on the other side, the air flows slower, with the difference in pressure creating the lift that allows the plane to fly.
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This is exactly what Denis Flageollet is trying to do with his balances: they pass so close to the mainplate that they tend to experience a suction effect. In the case of a race car, its upturned wing generates negative lift that pushes the car towards the track, increasing the grip of its tyres and enabling it to go faster around corners. De Bethune's balances have exactly the opposite effect, giving them an "aeroplane wing" effect and thus providing lift and lightness that almost allows them to "fly".
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While the suction effect is even more powerful with the acceleration of the car, the same occurs during the acceleration phase of the balance. Just as the F1 car takes advantage of the upturned wing to press the car to the ground when it accelerates, the benefit is just as effective in reverse for the balance, which uses the aeroplane wing process to avoid it being 'pushed' towards the mainplate.
Mastering DLC treatment
Similarly, whereas F1 engineers were among the first to work on DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) anti-friction coatings to reduce the friction of metal parts in their engines and thus improve performance, Denis Flageollet and his team have worked on the fantastic properties of DLC coating on hardened steel to improve the durability of watches’ black floating lugs and bezels.
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While
the two-tone colour scheme of the DB28GS 'JPS' is in equal measure dark
and bright, matt and glossy, it also features a blend of lighting and
enlightenment.
Exactly ten years ago, De Bethune started developing timepieces imbued with a more contemporary spirit, as embodied in the first DB28. Already at the time, Denis Flageollet – founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune as well as a keen outdoor sports enthusiast – felt the need to create watches suited to an active lifestyle.
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Based
on the observation that a sports watch must offer perfect legibility in
all kinds of weather and every possible situation, the movement was
developed from the outset in such a way as to light up the dial and
movement from the inside. A white light source is thus produced by an
entirely mechanical means that works on a dynamo-inspired principle.
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No
electronics, no battery, entirely mechanical... A pusher at 6 o’clock
serves to provide light on demand thanks to a gear train driven by the
double barrel. By means of an original miniature dynamo, this gear train
supplies the energy necessary to light up the face of the watch without
affecting its operation and the energy necessary for the smooth running
of its movement. This is a real challenge that is truly comparable to
the highly technical operation of a minute repeater movement, in which
the overall energy efficiency must be maximal and perfectly controlled.
A few seconds of light are more than enough to read the time, even at night. The DB28 GS 'JPS' is black and gold, even in the dark.
Ergonomy and comfort
Finally, the DB28 GS originally launched in 2015 meets De Bethune's sporting, technical and aesthetic aspirations. Measuring 44 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS 'JPS' is no exception to the De Bethune rule of wearer comfort.
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It
owes this exceptional comfort to the combination of black zirconium and
stainless steel; the softness of its hand-polished finish; the 12
o'clock position of its crown; and above all to the presence of the
patented floating lug system with their famous cone-shaped tips that are
more pro-eminent than ever, comprising polished yellow grade 5 titanium
inserts recalling the side of the case. The result is a construction
that adapts particularly well to the size of each wrist and the way it
moves. ----------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Collection DB28 Sports Watch
Name: DB28GS “John Player Special” Edition
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Reference: DB28GSV2JPS
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
– Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
– Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” De Bethune Innovation (2007)
– Hand snailed barrels
– Hand-polished, flame-blued and chamfered steel parts
- Self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
- Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, De Bethune Patent (2016)
- "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
- Silicon escape wheel
- Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, De Bethune Innovation (2005)
- Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher, De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Technical features of calibre DB2080
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Adornment: Mirror- polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving”
De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts
Display
Dial: Black satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals, Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring, Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock
Hands: Black titanium hours and minutes hands with polished steel insert and second yellow steel insert, luminescent tip - Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Case and strap
Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, black brushed and polished harden stainless steel caseback and bezel
Case diameter: 44mm
Case thickness: 12.8 mm
Attachments: Floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Glass: Sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown at 12 o’clock, setting in two positions
Back: Open in black polished harden stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Strap: Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp in brushed grade 5 titanium
Limited to Only 25 Pieces
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Press release -- Geneva 2022
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De Bethune Geneva Office
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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