TUDOR – Heritage Black Bay S&G

TUDOR – Heritage Black Bay S&G

TUDOR’s famous Heritage Black Bay divers’ watch is now available in yellow gold and steel version. Fitted with the Manufacture Calibre MT5612, the Heritage Black Bay S&G model also introduces the date function to the Black Bay 1/5 family.

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An emblematic model celebrating 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches with extraordinary craftsmanship. Enhancing the Heritage Black Bay with yellow gold creates a new version named S&G, for Steel & Gold.

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In this version the lines and proportions of the Black Bay are retained, while the rotating bezel and the winding crown are made from yellow gold. The steel bracelet is also dressed in this precious metal on its central link giving it a more formal feel.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5612

This is a variation of the movement first presented by TUDOR in 2015 and has been developed for the Heritage Black Bay S&G model. A date function features for the first time in the Black Bay family, adding to the hour, minute and second functions that are a feature of all Black Bay models.

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A high-performance calibre of superb precision and proven robustness. With a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it. Beating to a frequency of 28,800 beats/hour or 4 Hz, the movement is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring.

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 This is held in place by a traversing bridge, guaranteeing its robustness. Furthermore, the movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

A “RIVETED” BRACELET

The bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet. The links also had a distinct stepped construction.

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These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Available in two designs, it also comes on a brown aged leather strap and folding clasp delivered with an additional brown fabric strap. Made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family from from the Saint-Étienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.

THE ORIGINS OF THE BLACK BAY INSPIRATION

TUDOR derived the characteristic aesthetic elements of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model from its history. The overall shape, as well as the domed dial and crystal, come from the first TUDOR divers’ watches.

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 TUDOR – OYSTER Prince SUBMARINER Big Crown Ref. 7924 - Year 1958
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The prominent winding crown is a feature of the famous reference 7924 from 1958. The first TUDOR watch to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 f), known as the Big Crown. Finally, the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, are typical of the watches delivered to the French Navy in the 1970s.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. The first in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan who stated that the form of an object must follow its function. 

 

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Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch; an understated, functional and reliable tool. The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch. Each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field including some of the greatest military navies in the world.

THE HERITAGE LINE

A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’s frst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most important references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line.

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Unlike a traditional identical re-edition of a classic, the models in this line combine key aesthetics from history with modern day watchmaking. The standout Black Bay family, which forms part of the Heritage line, is a key example of this approach, bringing together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches.

ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is a Swiss watchmaking brand that offers mechanical watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and an unparalleled relationship between quality and price. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor ” was first registered as a brand on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex. In 1946, he founded the Montres Tudor SA company to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more accessible price point. Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice, the world over. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos and Style and since 2015 it has offered mechanical manufacture movements.

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Technical details

Collection: Heritage

Model: Black Bay S&G

Reference 79733N

CASE
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 60-minute graduated matt black anodized aluminium disc, gold markings
Winding crown: Yellow gold screw-down winding crown,
with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodised aluminium winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
DIAL
Black, domed
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5612,
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 31.8 mm
Thickness: 6.5 mm
Jewels: 26 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting
BRACELET
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch
Additional fabric strap with buckle included in the box

Retail PRICE
With bracelet: Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 4,750.–

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With Strap 2 version : Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 3,600.–

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Year: 2017
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GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Laureato Skeleton

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Laureato Skeleton

LAUREATO SKELETON

Solids and voids. Lines and curves. Interior and exterior. While these concerns are very much those of an architect, they undeniably define the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton. As the latest addition to the Laureato family, entirely rethought and richer than ever, this watch with a metal bracelet and a skeleton movement is an exercise in horological architecture. Girard-Perregaux has drawn upon the origins of the Laureato, upon the noblest inspirations and upon its horological expertise. The rigorous and sensual rhythm of the curves of the Laureato Skeleton give unique strength to an openworked watch in which the content harmoniously matches the container.

The Laureato was born under the finest auspices. Designed by a Milan-based architect in the 1970s, it immediately asserted itself as an object embodying a wealth of art, history and shapes: a true watchmaking icon. The spirit of this creation remains intact and is indeed enhanced in the latest Laureato generation that Girard-Perregaux launched in 2016 and is enriching in 2017.

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Its metal bracelet composed of links featuring alternating matt and satin-brushed surfaces; its case of which the lugs form an integral part of its design; its polished octagonal bezel framed by a circle: everything about it reveals a quest for balanced proportions and ergonomics. This approach to watch design has given rise to a distinctively styled and intense envelope, which protects and contains the functional organs – a vision identical to that of an architect. In this case, everything is concentrated within the few cubic centimetres of the Laureato Skeleton, which is viewed and experienced up close and personal, directly against the skin.

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The Laureato Skeleton has an exterior and an interior. Much like the Guggenheim Museum in New York, by Frank Lloyd Wright, this interior and this exterior are engaged in constant dialogue. The envelope is a rigorously designed 42 mm-diameter, 10.88 mm-thick case, available in stainless steel or 18K pink gold, matching the bracelet. It is impeccably proportioned and composed of well-defined curves and clean-cut lines.

The content is a skeletonised Fine Watchmaking movement, Calibre GP01800-0006, forming veritable mechanical lace motifs. Positioned at 12 o’clock amid this elegantly filigree-worked metal structure is its balance, a reminder that the Laureato Skeleton is a living creation with a steadily beating heart. The excellent precision of this model is further reinforced – for the first time in a GP1800 movement – by the use of a variable-inertia balance.  

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Calibre GP01800-0006 is entirely developed, produced, finished and assembled within the walls of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. It drives the hours, minutes and small seconds in an openworked interpretation graced with exceptional finishing. It has undergone extensive skeleton craftsmanship. The bridges and mainplate are replaced by a clever interplay of solids and voids, alternating between the structural framework and inhabitable spaces, like the interior of a baroque-style Italian cathedral such as St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

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The walls and columns are in this instance metal curves. The calibre is airy and yet perfectly solid. Like the Gateway Arch of St. Louis, Missouri, designed by Eero Saarinen, the Laureato Skeleton draws its strength from its transparency. This see-though nature is reinforced by the rotor carved from a block of 18K pink gold and openworked like the rest of the movement. This component that normally covers and conceals other elements thus allows the light to flood through the Laureato Skeleton like a stained-glass window. Instead of a dial, the movement is rimmed by suspended hour-markers. Like the Place de l’Etoile in Paris, they elegantly distribute the information provided by the watch.

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The otherwise bare curves of this skeleton movement are adorned with chamfering that accentuates their outlines. They are hand-crafted by qualified artisans of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. The remaining surface of the movement is given a matt effect by satin brushing, creating a texture that catches and holds the light. The overall anthracite treatment gives a dark glow that sets the perfect finishing touch to the contrasting effects enlivening the Laureato Skeleton.

An intense, solid yet supple exterior. A graceful and sensual, yet structurally rigid interior. Luminous on the outside and dark inside. The Laureato Skeleton is a vector of emotions as well as functions. A construction echoing the intentions of Oscar Niemeyer when he created Brasília, the Brazilian capital. The Laureato Skeleton is designed to find its way unscathed through time and to testify through successive ages to the structural and technical mastery cultivated by Girard-Perregaux.


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Technical Specifications

Model: Laureato Skeleton

Case
Material:

• Stainless stee
• 18K pink gold

Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 10.88 mm
Crystal: sapphire glareproofed on both sides
Case-back: sapphire
Water resistance:
100 metres for the stainless steel version,
50 meters for the pink gold version
Dial
Peripheral ring with suspended luminescent hour-markers
Hands: baton-type, luminescent

Movement
Calibre Reference: GP01800-0006, skeletonised
Winding: automatic, via a skeletonised 18K gold rotor
Diameter: 30.6 mm (13¼’’’)
Thickness: 4.16 mm
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Number of components: 173
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 54 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 10 o’clock
Bracelets
In stainless steel or 18K pink gold with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces
Triple-blade folding clasp, in stainless steel or 18K pink gold

References
Steel Model : 81015-11-001-11A
Pink gold Model : 81015-52-002-52A

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Press Contact: 

Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com

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