Wednesday, October 20, 2021

Mauron Musy – MU05 Skeleton ARMURE Edition

Mauron MusyMU05 Skeleton ARMURE Titanium Edition 2021

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Inspired by the past, shaping the future
Limited edition of 13 timepieces


MAURON MUSY REVEALS ITS CHARMS

Nearly fifteen years after the fashion for skeletonization first emerged, Mauron Musy has unveiled its very first skeleton watch. The brand makes no excuses for taking its time, and why should it? Its own skeletonised piece is very much true to form: different and innovative. 

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Not going with the flow, not giving into temptation, protecting its DNA: for almost ten years now, Mauron Musy has been a rare horological breed – and a jealously-guarded secret among collectors. It’s the only fully independent manufacture to have made the watch exterior complication its own, universally-acclaimed speciality.

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This barely needs further introduction. Describing it is as simple as its workings are complex: no fewer than 36 components, including assembly flanges and satellite compression springs, keep the case perfectly waterproof – without a seal. The traditional waterproofing O-ring has been consigned to the past (or at least to a museum or cabinet of curiosities); Mauron Musy’s Armure model is watertight to depths of 300 metres without the need for any seal at all.

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Previously, the workings of this ingenious piece of mechanical prowess could be glimpsed through the sapphire caseback of the brand’s creations. That was a good start, but didn’t go far enough, according to some collectors. That’s because in addition to having its own waterproofing complication, Mauron Musy boasts its own movement, not to be sneezed at either: it’s wholly proprietary, made entirely in Switzerland – and entirely within a 60-kilometre radius of the brand’s workshops. Aficionados of ‘Ultra Swissness’ and admirers of beautiful mechanisms were keen to enjoy a better view. The result? The Skeleton Armure, Mauron Musy’s first ever skeletonised watch.

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As one might expect, the brand has paid scant heed to convention. The Skeleton Armure MU05 boasts four successive levels of dials, formed by a bezel, a flange, and two levels of dials with different treatments: one in NAC platinum alloy, the other in titanium or gold, depending on the model. 

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To highlight this deep dive into the heart of the MM01-SK movement, Mauron Musy has decorated the latter with an abundance of relief engravings: the minute circle, the individual serial number, the brand’s emblem, and its own mantra: ‘Swiss Crafted’. 

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Each surface features its own specific finish – polished, satin, angled, sunburst, or frosted. Every single ray of light and reflection captured within the timepiece’s 44-millimetre diameter is harnessed to maximum effect.
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In the centre of this dial arrangement, Mauron Musy has pierced a few holes, in carefully selected locations. The aim is to reveal certain key components of the MM01-SK caliber – but not all of them. “We wanted to show off part of our mechanical identity, whilst keeping the watch perfectly readable,” explains brand co-founder and CEO, Christophe Musy. “Too many skeleton watches fall into the trap of baring too much, resulting in so much detail on the dial that it’s impossible to see the hands properly. We were aiming for a different result! We’ve opened up the dial just enough to reveal the vital components of our caliber: the escapement, barrel, and hour and minute pinion.”

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Being able to see the caliber and discern the beat of the escapement without losing anything in terms of readability is what gives the Skeleton MU05 such a subtle balance of technical detail and aesthetic charm. In response to requests from its collectors, notably in Japan, Dubai, and Switzerland, Mauron Musy has unveiled just thirteen of these Skeleton Armure MU05 watches in titanium. 

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Scarcely had they been made available for sale than eleven of the thirteen had already found a buyer – clear evidence of market demand. 

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At the same time, on request only, Mauron Musy offers a ‘hard gold’ model featuring gold specially treated to make it more resistant to bumps and scratches.

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And in response to all this enthusiasm, the brand is already planning to write another episode in its skeleton watch series – perhaps even starring another caliber.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection : MU05

 Model:  MU05 Skeleton ARMURE

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  • Ref.  MU05-101 Titanium
  • Ref.  MU05-301 Gold

Movement
Exclusive self-winding Calibre MM01-SK
33 mm in diameter
6.55 mm thick
25 jewels
Frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
55-hour power reserve
167 components
Polished steel Swiss lever escapement
Functions

Central displays of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Finishing and decoration
Snailed and hollowed bridges with microblasted structure, anthracite NAC coating
Diamond-polished angles
Microblasted mainplate, anthracite NAC coating
Sunburst and nickel-plated pallet bridge
Rhodium-plated and circular satin-brushed gear wheels
Steel screws with polished heads
Snailed tungsten oscillating weight with anthracite NAC coating
Case

  • Grade 5 Titanium, engraved  
  • Hard Gold, engraved

44 mm in diameter x 13 mm thick
36 components
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and back
nO-Ring® mechanical water-tightness to 300 m. (30 ATM)  
Dial
Luminescent-tipped diamond-polished hands
Dial in 6 parts, machined in full, NAC and Rhodium-plated
Diamond-polished angles
Full 3D laser engraving
Stamped with the serial number on 13
Strap
Delivered with two leather and rubber straps enabling tool-free interchangeability
Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium and stainless steel

Specific features

  • Stamped with the “Swiss Crafted” inscription (meaning 100% made in Switzerland)
  • nO-Ring® technology by MAURON MUSY
  •  Warranty 5 years manufacturer's warranty

EDITION      

  • Limited edition to 13 pieces
  • Limited edition Hard Gold to 4 pieces

Price CHF 24,700  ⚠️ Sold OUT !

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Press releases - 2021
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Tuesday, October 19, 2021

Hermes – ARCEAU The Three Graces Gold Edition


Hermès ARCEAU The Three Graces Gold Limited Edition 2021

Wood marquetry and miniature painting on aventurine, surrounded by diamonds:
the Arceau watch miniaturises a graceful and singular giant, Alice Shirley’s giraffe.

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Created in 1978 by Henri d'Origny, the Arceau watch lends itself to the expression of Hermès skills. Produced in a numbered limited edition of 24, the white gold and diamond Arceau The Three Graces reinterprets the theme of the eponymous silk scarf designed by British artist Alice Shirley in 2020.

Crafted in wood marquetry and miniature painting on aventurine, the elegant giraffe adorning the dial of Arceau The Three Graces was originally inspired by a trip to South Africa, when Alice Shirley had the privilege of spotting three giraffes partially concealed by an acacia tree. The delicacy and poetry of this gigantic creature, with its ample and graceful movements, is highlighted by the skilled touch of Hermès artisans, who have reproduced its natural harmony
.

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To transpose the animal's profile, long neck and mottled coat to the scale of a dial, the marquetry specialist begins by transferring and downscaling the design, then rigorously selecting the type, grain and colour of the wood used to reproduce it. In this case that meant a combination of naturally dark, light, stained or bleached wood – American walnut and maple, European sycamore and tulip tree – chosen for their nuances and textures similar to those of the original design. The artisan cuts out the multitude of tiny elements – 195 pieces in all – forming the portrait that is then assembled like a puzzle, before gluing, sanding and applying a protective varnish.

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This marquetry decoration comes to life in the heart of a work that also requires meticulous care and a flair for colours. On a scintillating aventurine base, the painter traces the outlines of the motif before placing the piece in the kiln to fix the colours in place. He then forms the various volumes of the background vegetation using successive layers of micro-painting applied with a brush and heat-dried in a kiln. He proceeds in the same way for the flat areas of colours, before finalizing his composition with small precise touches. The challenge of such an endeavour lies in miniaturising a rich palette of nuances, contrasts and subtle details. Several weeks of rigorous discipline, patience and dexterity are required to produce this dial, which is by nature unique.

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Representing a combination of artistic crafts and watchmaking, the Arceau The Three Graces watch is powered by the Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement driving hours and minutes hands. The deep hues of the dial, framed by a precious white gold case set with 82 diamonds, are highlighted by a blue sapphire alligator strap made in the Hermès Horloger workshops.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  ARCEAU The Three Graces Gold Edition

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement
Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Swiss made
Diameter: 23.9mm
Thickness: 3.7mm
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes
CASE
Shape/size: Round, 38 mm in diameter
Material: White gold set with 💎82 diamonds
Crown: Set with 💎1 diamond
Crystal: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back
Water resistance: 3 bar
DIAL
Miniature painting on aventurine and wood marquetry
STRAP
Sapphire blue alligator 

Limited and numbered edition of 24 piece
 
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Press Release - 2021
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Hermès Horloger Press Relations
Katy Jolidon

katy.jolidon@montre-hermes.ch
+41 (0)32 366 71 00
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INTERNATIONAL HERMÈS PRESS OFFICE
Sophie Seibel-Traonouïl - 10-12, rue de la Ville-l’Évêque,
75008 Paris - Tel.: + 33 (0)1 40 17 47 89.
Fax: + 33 (0)1 48 10 17 88 
Photos: Claude Joray
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